Been staring at the wiring harness from american autowire for 2 weeks!! You gave me the confidence to open the box and follow your steps. Great job! Well Done!
This is our first wiring video. Our mechanic friend is working on his 1966 gto and has to install his headlight and taillight harnesses. I had no idea all the work involved. Very informative video. Thank you very much for your knowledge and what is involved with this skill. Your amazing!
I've been looking for a video for a wiring harness for a 67 impala for years. This is the closest thing I've found I really hope this helps us get it in!
Thanks for posting. I will be watching your entire playlist to get ready for my first wire job. The cab of truck and bed were separated and stored separately 18 years ago and wiring harness was removed at that time. I still have the wiring harness so I am debating whether I should try to go through and try to make heads and tails out of the old wiring harness or purchase a new wiring harness. The truck is a Jeep full size J10 that has become rare because most of them have rusted away. I purchased it in Louisiana before Katrina and doesn't have the rust problem.
Thank you for watching. Personally I always recommend new wiring over using the original. Wire insulation dries out over time and can come off easily, there can be corrosion inside the wires and connections and even if all that is okay modern harnesses have better connections and better fuses making your car safer than it was originally. I don’t know CJs very well but a lot of older vehicles have full circuits like the horn and others that aren’t fused at all. Just something to keep in mind when you are deciding to use the original or not.
I purchased a Kwik wire harness for my 57 Ford Fairlane, instruction manual is awesome and in my opinion better than painless, getting ready to install will let you know how it goes, I really enjoy your videos 3:02
Thank you so much for this video. I just bought a 77 impala coupe, and the wiring was rat f****** to hell. And I've decided to rip it all out and just replace it. 😪 I've never done it before, but I'm not rich enough to just pay someone else to do it.
Awesome videos... maybe I will take on the wiring of my 1975 Mercury Comet that needs it badly. Your video is giving me some courage to try it myself. Do appreciate your style of making the job clean and structured.
Keep the videos coming. I have a '75 Maverick and have decided to just redo the entire wiring. I find these videos and all the tips very helpful. Also mulling the idea of putting the battery in trunk, so looking forward to that video.
This is great ! I’m about to swap out my 65 Galaxie wiring . Thank you for the reminder about taking pictures and notes as well as marking it all. Cheers
As an alternative to zip-ties, for your channel run, you might consider "heat-shrink tubing" (1/2" to 3/4" bands). Slide them over the group and separate them as desired. A heat gun , bic lighter, or propane torch will quickly lock your wiring in place, without the snagging issues associated with the "pass-throughs" of the zips. If you have different "branches", you can also divert each as and where needed.
Question. Are you talking about when hes running thru the sill plates? Where you step ? I kinda understood what you said. If you have any social media and could send some pics I’d be interested and learning what you’re talkin about
@@jayvalentin018 just talking about "standard" heat-shrink tubing, available at most auto parts stores, and Home Depot/Walmart type where you can buy electrical wiring (auto and home). Instead of using zip-ties, which have a portrusion where the locking portion is, you slip short sections of heat-shrink over grouped sections of the harness. When "fishing", whether it's through sill (body) channels or under carpet, you don't have anything poking outward from the sides of the bundle you're trying to pull. Also, as I mentioned, whenever you have a point where a group divides from the original "trunk", you place a band (maybe a bit longer) at the point where they branch and continue "banding" along each bundle as needed. The advantage is, if sized properly and not overheated when applied, unlike electrical tape, heat-shrink has no adhesive to deteriorate and unwind. Combined with either new or reused anchors, it makes for a cleaner more professional looking installation, as well as easier access to wiring for diagnostics. Once you've got everything "to length/as needed", some "split tubing" (aka split loom), again with a couple of strategically placed "heat-shrinks", will protect your new wires from abrasion, and add to the professional appearance.
I am sooooo glad that I came across your channel trying to find info on a wire harness install. I am rewiring a 79 Chevy truck but not using the 350 engine it has. a LS motor will be swapping to this truck so I dont think I would be using some of these wires. This thing is very intimidating to do but you laid out the perfect plan on how to route things accordingly.
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Exactly what I plan to do. Its the old wiring to the headlights, tail lights, dash components and switches I am replacing since those are all beat up. Im going to pretty this thing up as I watch your videos. Thank you so much. Aloha from Hawaii.
@@The_Nameless_Entity No problem at all, I would recommend buying a Haywire harness for everything else, let them know I sent you and they should give a discount
Fantastic video and very thoroughly covered the topic. I am doing a 69 Fastback and found all your expert tips and tricks very useful and insightful. Thank you and keep up with your great videos. Mick - Gold Coast Australia
13:45 just a tip from a guy that pulled tons of cable...you can use electrical tape at the tip to hold it together and push it thru. It holds very well and keeps everything together until you are ready to separate the wire.
Awesome show,,, I have a restomod 55 Chev convertible LS3/525 4L75e trans that I am trying to wrap my head around the wiring before I even start. Base of the rewire is an American Autowire Classic Update. Will be my first rewire of a car front to back
I appreciate it Dennis! Sounds like a good set up and a cool car. Shouldn’t be too difficult, let me know if you have any questions, also what are you using to control the LS3?
Outfukin standing video bro...I have a 65 impala that I painted, installed new crate motor and mounted a qwikwire harness all myself...just plowed thru like a little kid putting together a model cat kit.....then hit a wall....its been about 4 months just sitting there....mentally reluctant to do this job....but after watching your video...ima try to get back on it tonight...fukin hot here in Fresno California at the moment...so as I'm typing this message...hopefully I'm not blowing smoke up both are ass'es get do this tonight!!! 🇺🇸 yeeeeeeeeeaaaah
I have a 66 Ford Fairlane. Currently no A/C, nothing power. I bought a KwikWire 14 circuit kit about 8 years ago and realized I was nuts when I looked at it. My thought was I wanted to be capable of A/C install and power everything if I won the lottery (also God blessed me with girls that I believe would do better with power brakes, windows, etc. Kwik doesn't have all the connectors that AAW seems to have. Cheaper but wish I would have spent a little extra now. Anyway, the kit has been sitting out in my garage still uninstalled. I may try to sell on EBay if I can get another kit better suited for the 66 Fairlane. Seems like a 66 Mustang would do that. What do you think?
Zack, have you ever done a video about re-wiring a 32 Ford coupe with a flathead V-8 with a new modern wire harness kit and converting from 6 volt to 12 volt system. I have a new Speedway universal wire harness and have also purchased a new 12 volt power master alternator to replace the old generator. I’ve never done a complete re-wire of a car like this, so any help or advice you could give would be great.
Great video. Any kit that you know of that would include proper w/wiper wiring. Who even runs one speed on a w/wiper motor. Guess AAW needs to include rainX.
If you want wiper apart of the harness already then you would have to get a general aftermarket harness and not a 65/66 specific harness, I had to make all my own wires for the wiper in this car
I hope you are still around to answer this question. I am going to rewire my 77 Camaro with a Painless kit that will work with aftermarket gauges. Also, any tips on wiring the aftermarket gauges?
Say brother, I’m wanting to rewire my 76 c10. I’ve already done a last swap with stand alone harness from BP Automotive. I’ve also already upgraded to Dakota digital cluster. Now I’d like to rewire the rest of the truck but I’m iffy on which harness kit to go with since I don’t need a lot of what comes in the kit’s available, could you recommend one specific for my square body? I will eventually upgrade to power windows and locks as well but not till later
Any estimates on the time it would take a Hot-Rod shop to install one of these "bumper-to-bumper" kits? I guessing 16-24 hours to take out all the old wiring and install all new with wrapping.
@@jeandireus5584 There are so many variables that it’s hard to say. Is there interior in the car that needs to be removed and reinstalled? Is the dash and instrument panel installed and does it need to be removed/installed? Does the wire harnesses run outside the frame or inside the car? I highly doubt anyone is going to be willing to just run wires without installing everything they are connected to as there is so much that can happen from the time the wires are ran until everything is actually hooked up. Like he said I would just bank on at least 30 hours and be happy if it’s less.
Another outstanding wiring video. Thanks. I noticed there is a BIG price difference between American Autowire and Painless Performance for your mustang. Why did you go with AAW and not Painless? Cheers.
Thank you for watching! I went with AAW because it was more affordable for my customer, I’ve used them in the past and really noticed they have good quality wire, and really nice instructions, outside from that Painless does have better connectors, and better wire looms
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop There's a $324 difference between the AAW and Painless harnesses for my Olds. Is AAW worth the extra money? Are Painless' wire not as good? Also, is it better to go with a 25-circuit harness versus the 21 or 23 circuit ones? Sorry for all the questions, but as I said, your two wiring videos are the best I've come across. Cheers.
@@samross9895 remember that for classics, it will probably be the last time doing a full wiring for the rest of the car's lifetime. Considering that, what is 300 dollars?
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Hey I have a question very similar to the other questions. I have a 72 olds cutlass convertible with atomic efi fuel injection , vintage air and vhx Dakota guages. I see they have a kit for like 800.00 directly for my car. That of course is direct factory up to date wiring. American autowire model number 510645 or should I stay with painless model number 10413 which is 574.99 because my car is mostly custom and won't be using a lot of factory direct hook ups with it being custom.
Say it is not so! i was so looking forward to the next phase. I am sad. Great video really learned a lot. Thank you. Somehow see if you can find a tech guru to dig out that file. sorry to hear
I didn’t need to, but that’s what I did. The alternator wires can run completely individually from any car harness, wether they are a one wire or voltage regulator style
I’m about to wire my 71 Monte Carlo your videos are the best that I have come across so far even though it’s a different car thank you for all the tips. My harnesses are rebuilt factory specific from M&H wiring systems. Of course it came No instructions for installation. Do you have any suggestions on diagrams or anything of that sort that would assist me in wiring a car for the first time?
Those are plug-and-play harnesses from M&H. Your factory assembly manual should show the routing for the harnesses. If you need help with ID'ing the connectors, give M&H a call to help.
Thank you for the video. I’m starting on my harness tomorrow. Is it possible if you could provide the link for the wiper harness? I’m looking at the intermittent wiper switch module on CJ and want to be sure Thank you
Be very wary of buying this product. I bought the entire wiring harness for my '79 Ford F-150. I have more and worse electrical problems now than I did. I followed their instructions to the letter and have went though the instructions several times and every time new problems arise. I have been working on this going on three weeks now and still can't even get my truck to start and run.
I would double check all your grounds, American Autowire is one of the leading brands, I’ve never had any issues with them and I’ve done dozens of harnesses
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop American Auto Wire gives specific procedures and sequences in the instructions. If you do it the way you are demonstrating you are tossing out their entire structure for the install. That is freelancing and you are doing your subscribers a miss-service by not mentioning it. Just because you know where everything goes,... does not mean your followers do and if they get lost doing it your way they may not be able to dig their way out. I am a AAW dealer and installer.
@@themultimediagarage4109 okay I am also a dealer and my full time restoration business installs harnesses, did you watch the video? I literally broke everything down with the instructions provided, and showed people how to relay information on the wires to the information in the booklet, I’m literally teaching how to use the book and also giving basic information about wire routing
It would be nice if people didn't have a damn rock song going in the background when they're trying to explain something, it's very distracting and just not needed. Not singling you out but too many people do this.
Can anybody that’s a car electrician help me get my Dodge Avenger harness rewired ? I will gladly send you money we can get in touch please drop a message
