Installing T-Nuts In Wood | Fasteners101 

Use a furniture screw instead. Resist pounding

Came to the comments to make sure I wasn't the only one who was planning to bang it in with a hammer. Lol.

Me too

That seems like a good idea for making the T-Nut more flush with the surface. Thanks for the tip!

Same here. Forcing it down through the wood deforms the surface around it. And it is basically impossible in hardwood and plywood. I have used T-Nuts and bolts as stand-offs for leveling the router attachment on my tablesaw table. It's a custom built table for my Dewalt DW745 that was built with the attachment in mind. I countersunk the T-Nuts into the frame and used hex bolts to raise or lower the top in 6 places (3 along each of the long sides). The top is then secured to the frame with 4 sturdy metal brackets.

You can also use a Forster bit to sink the T-nut further, about a 1/2 inch. Then super glue a wood plug into the hole to get a finished look on one side with a super strong fastener on the other side.

We'll keep that in mind! Thank you for your feedback.

@@AlbanyCountyFasteners was about to say it myself, but as i saw, it was already mentioned, usefull information if i ever gonna do a home climbing wall, so thanks for the information

Hahah that’s why I’m here

That's fair! While this is the cleanest way, we can see how your approach with the hammers would be the best for what you are doing. That is a lot of T-nuts to install. Thank you for your feedback!

OfficialMartinB Turn the bolt until its snug but don't over tighten. You'll feel it when it's seated because the bolt will get tight.

You're welcome! Thank you for your feedback.

1/2 inch

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Too funny!

Hi. Just curious, why does it make a difference which way the bolt goes in?

​@@adamthewoodworker2571as in the video, the bolt is pulling the t-nut to claw the wood in the middle, so it isn't going anywhere

Glad we could be of help! Thank you for the feedback!

We'd suggest checking the instruction manual on that one, we don't have a way of knowing for sure what the t-nuts are for beyond putting the bunk beds together.

Yes, you can disassemble with a t-nut. While the bolt is still screwed, take a hammer and hit the bolt to push the t-nut out of the wood. You can then unthread the t-nut and re-assemble when you are done.

Thank you for your reply, unfortunately, the nut is inside two parts of glued mahogany, whilst I could hit the bolt to release the prongs it may not be so easy to put the bolt back in as I have no access to it once it is in use, I will buy some and try, again many thanks

@Tony Beadle - Not sure if I understand fully what you were trying to accomplish, but "riveting T-nuts" have an added function that allows the wood parts to be disassembled & reassembled multiple times with less chance of the T-nut loosening out of its intended position. I saw & read about these on Rockler's site. I realize you asked this Q 4 months ago, but maybe it will be useful on a future project. :)

Tony Beadle The but won't spin once it's fully seated and the prongs have dig in. We have hundreds of them on the back side of panels for a climbing wall that are permanently mounted. We remove bolts frequently and the t-nuts stay in place. There's also a version with small screws to hold it in place rather than prongs.

Thank you for your feedback.

yes

@@MarCialRoman One of the great uses for T-Nuts is removable plates from your work bench. I install them on the back side of a plate that is the same size as my work bench. I make subplots with the same hole pattern and mount a vise, 6" bench grinder, disc/belt sander and they are interchangeable and store easily under the bench

You're welcome! Thank you for your feedback.

Hi Sergiomng, Use the barrel diameter.

Thanks a lot!!! thanks for posting this video as well

You're welcome!

It's obvious that he only drilled a hole for the barrel - that's why he split the wood! The correct method is to use a proper wood screw and use it to countersink for the diameter of the T-nut by a few mm.

Ahhhh no . Use 1 6/4 less . Much tighter fit . Tap lightly with hammer cover with a piece of wood and pound it home. You do not always have access to screw in from underneath and as far as I'm concerned a waste of time.

The flushness is one thing, but the real benefit of the T-nut is that it bites down into the wood with its flange, which distributes the load better. While also serving as a way to use screws and bolts with machine threading in wood applications, similar to a typical threaded insert.

@@AlbanyCountyFasteners thanks 👍🏼

If you don't want the bolt to protrude, use a shorter bolt. :) I have used these on several occasions where I needed to bolt something to a piece of wood that had the backside flush against something else. I just use bolts the right length, and if I can't find one that fits perfectly, I just shorten the bolt slightly. You just need the bolt to grip at least the length of the thread size, i.e. if the thread is 3/8", you want the bolt to go at least 3/8" into the T-Nut.

A threaded or press in insert

Can you send pictures of what you're doing? We need a better idea of your application to provide any meaningful advice. Please send any applicable pictures to support@rawproductscorp.com with a description of what you are looking to do and we'll help as best we can.

Assuming that the threaded bolt sticking out the extension is longer than the existing legs then you could put a t nut on the top of the existing leg and achieve what you want. You would have to possible trim off the excess bolt that will be sticking out the top of the existing leg though when you're done and could leave nasty sharp edges. A far better solution is to use a wood threaded insert.

Hi Joaquin, We don't recommend using soap as it is considered hydrophilic. This means it will attract water to those threads. We recommend using a lubricant designed for fastener lubrication such as these: www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Anti-Seize-s/949.htm

Thank you for your feedback.

Yes, a T-nut should work fine with a clamping knob.

Just force it in with a bolt first. The knob would probably break before the T-Nut is seated properly, depending on the type of wood.

Thank you for your feedback!

That would depend heavily upon your application. Threaded inserts - for wood- are normally used in situations where the fastener is going to be installed and removed multiple times. While both create a flush surface when installed correctly, you will get more pulling strength from the t-nut (because they can handle so much torque). For just creating durable threading in wood, either would be fine.

@@AlbanyCountyFasteners Follow up. Could a t-nut be used in the place of washer and nut?

@@BoltWolf69 That will depend on the application. In practice, you would use a T nut where you do not plan on removing the nut. Where as a bolt, washer and nut combo is a fully temporary joint. It could be used in place of a nut and washer but if you place on replacing the T nut several times it will not work.

Yes!

Hi James, The hole size will vary depending on the size of the T-nut. You'll want to drill a hole as close as possible, but slightly larger, than the barrel size. It should fit snugly.

No

The T-nuts themselves are not designed to split the wood.

@@AlbanyCountyFasteners Well then why some people still drill small pilot holes for these?

You're welcome! Thank you for your feedback.

Thank you for your feedback.

1:58 As Bob tightens the bolt, it grabs the threading of the t-nut and pulls it into the hole. I'm a little confused by your statement...unless you were referring to something else?

@@AlbanyCountyFasteners ok so I predrilled the holes and I set the t nut on the opposite site of the board and begin the screw. When the screw begins to catch the threads on the t nut , it doesn't pull the teeth towards the wood , it either just passes through and it doesn't move, or if I let go of it , it pretty much just catches hold and stays in place on the screw and moves away from the wood. I spent 3 hours trying every which way to screw that in and it somehow pull it tighter, but I've got to be completely missing something because it just simply does not work. And I know the hardware matches because they are from the same set and the wood is mdf so it's plenty soft

LOL!