Allergies got the best of me in the previous video. So here's the rest of it. Installing a new primary chain on a 1997 Harley Davidson Fatboy with a 4 5/8 Stroker Engine we've just prepared to go have fun with.
I watched a lot of Bob Ross when I was a child. You are like the Bob Ross of bike mechanics. Love your attitude and patience. Thank you for the videos and knowledge.
Had to laugh....I was looking at your tub of Anti Seize and it looks like you have a lifetime supply. I have the same one I bought back in 78' and it still has about two spoon full left in it. A little goes a long way, that stuff lasts forever!...Fun video Mike.....Thanks
Hi Mike I have been watching all your videos glad your coughing fit has finished all the information is just so great Thanks for taking the time for showing what you do so well JA Uk
Hello Mike, Off & Now On again HAYDEN M6 Automatic Chain Tensioner (other than the "SHOE" ... parts are difficult to purchase / replace ) Thanks for Taking US Along COOP ........................................................
Mike, just love your channel. I've been a Ford tech for many years, then trade instructor. I learned something new every time I see your work. Slow and sure. I love it!!!!
I am so digging this project, I totally forgot about the project bike. That's how good this channel is. Everything is exactly what I need in my day. ;)
Glad you enjoy it! I really want to get back on the project bike. Catching up now. We kind of mix things up a little as things come up. It's like life in general.
Great videos Mike! I bought my first Harley back in April a 97 Fatboy. I've been watching this series a lot, trying to learn as much as I can. Thank you for making them!
You sound much better Mike! My last name is Rivera! No relation tho. I know from my first boss (German trained by VW back in the 30's and 40's would only use an impact in that type of situation if he was unable to securely lock the device he was torquing down. We always used the impact gun on the large nut that held on the rear wheel to the axle on the VW beetles and square backs.
I remember that nut well. It took a 36mm socket. I believe (just my personal belief), that the motor sprocket nut and the clutch hub nut are safest using an impact gun. My reasoning is that it becomes a tight radius with no sideloading like you would get with a large lever.
Hey Mike im looking for a 103 twin cam used running for my uncle's ultra classic so I can break the one in her now down, it spun a cam bearing already smoked 2 oil pumps the needle bearing remains keep destroying em thaught we had it flushed out but im going to have to pull it and do it right, any leads by chance ?
hey Mike, I went with a 25 tooth compensator sprocket, stock chain to short, next size h.d. sells is 82, to big, couldn't find any chains in between, went with a 27 tooth sprocket, same thing, finally called baker engineering, they have 78, 80 link chains, ended up with 27 tooth sprocket with 78 link chain and fat shoe from baker adjuster, I love it, also Baker has a chart that tells you what ratios ,thanks for all you do for us.
Well, I kinda helped with those instructions. You didn't tell me anything about the bike. But 5/8" is generally great. But a wilder, lumpy, bumpy motor, you can decrease to 9/16" or even less with a beast of a motor, 1/2".
Well, I looked in my catalogs. It wasn't there. I got irritated. Finally, this found me people who carry those springs: m-6 primary chain tensioner parts list Honestly, it was right there. Took me a while.
Mike, my manual says not to use an impact wrench on the compensator sprocket nut. I believe they're concerned about the glued in magnets on the stator rotor breaking loose. .... do you have any thoughts on this?
Sorry Jim, that your shim just did not win. Im glad that Jim lowered the hammer he was holding over his head as you put new shims in after casually throwing away his. Haha
Mike! I got a 68 shovel with stock front end. Whats the best way (if any) on centering up the front wheel . I got and tried different wheel spacer and this things is kicking my ass. I aint never had any problem with the front end in all the years Ive had this bike. Any advice would be appreciated.
If it's stock, all the parts are available. Try V-Twin (Tedd Cycle). They have all of the blowup pictures with part numbers in their catalog. I'm sure it's all online.
Shouldn’t ya not also change sprockets with the chain like a final chain drive? And also for the tensioner rotate to check the tightest spot considering crank & clutch drive shaft run out ?
It wasn't that bad. It was stretched some. Jim wanted a fresh one. So I replaced it for him. Chains that run in oil, as opposed to being oiled, tend to last a long time.
Mike i was think the other day remember all the roller chain belts to hold up your pants people were buying in the 70s .how many do you think were used on a motercycle to limp it on home ? I mean i took a coat hanger wire to fix a drive chain and played it real soft on the clutch and throttle and broke that link 5 times before i got it home and im sure you've done a few roadside jerry rigs yourself along the way .
Hey hope yall all doing great. Funny thing may buy 1998 Fatboy. Is it chain drive in the primary? Thinking also about going to a chain drive on the back wheel. 98 has about 7000 miles. My concern is that belt. To me a belt on primary and chain on back wheel. Then you're not at the mercy of disassemblingy to fix the belt. What your opinion. Whenever you get a chance let me know be cool.
All the late Harleys have primary chains and belt final drive. I mean like, since the mid eighties for big twins and 91 (if I remember correctly) for Sportsters. They only time they get a chain final drive is if someone decides to modify the bike by installing one. The same thing holds true for primary drives. They come with a chain in there. Installing a belt on the primary is a modification. Harley experimented by installing some belt final drives on some of the last of the Shovels (FXD's and FLH's, and the Sturgis models). All the 98 models (Sportster and Big Twin) came with chain primary drive and belt final drive. Oh yah; The "Sturgis" (I believe 81 and 82) had both primary and final drive belts.
Thanks for your videos. I wish I knew how to Reach out to you I have a '97 Fatboy that has had a problem for 3 years that no Harley dealership has been able to help me fix. I would love to run it by you.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you! I bought the 97 Fatboy used with no knowledge of its past. The issue I am seeing is if my NC weather is 89° or below I can ride the bike all day with no problems. The minute the weather is hotter than that I can ride for about 10 to 20 minutes before the bike will just cut out. Sometimes the engine just shuts down but sometimes it will backfire a few times before it shuts down. As soon as I get the bike to the side of the road it will start right back up. It will shut right back down as I start driving away. In the past three years it's been to the Harley shop average probably a year and a half of that. They did initially find where the turn signal wires were exposed and shorting the bike out. But once that was fixed I still had the issue. I've had the carb cleaned up, ignition coil, ignition module, spark plugs and wires, battery replaced. I recently replaced the breaker that sits under the seat by the rear wheel. This was suggested to me by an ex Harley tech. It is hard for them to duplicate it because they can't waste man hours and somebody riding it until it dies. What I have done the past couple times is driven it until it died on me and called the Harley dealerships to come pick me up. They believe it is something electrical. At first I thought it was just overheating but as the years passed I am leaning towards electrical too since the bike starts right back up. I love the bike but i am at my wits end. Any thoughts or help is appreciated.
Well, each of us that try to diagnose an "intermittent problem" can only go on our own experience. So, I'll give to you my thoughts and hope they help. First thought; is the bike lowered? If so, remove the rear wheel and inspect the wires for shorts, especially if you have an oversize rear tire. The ignition module would certainly be suspect, but, you say it's been replaced. Next comes the ignition pickup (located in the cam cover). Remove the little access cover. With the engine running, heat it with a heat gun or even a good hot hair dryer. If the engine dies, there's your problem. I normally replace the stock ignition system with a good aftermarket unit, which the dealership certainly will not. It's basically a matter of hit and miss until you find it. We all hate "intermittent problems."
@@pacificmike9501 i appreciate your thoughts. The ignition and coil pack was replaced by the dealership with dynatek 2000i components when i tried the heatgun test. The bike is not lowered. I had all the tins painted last winter and inspected the wiring while they were exposed and found no issues. The bike is currently back at the dealership since my last shutdown. You are right, it is very frustrating to have an intermittent problem that is 100% repeatable based on the outside temperature. The search will continue.
Does yours still use the original pickup in the cone? In other words, does yours just use the 2000 module with the stock pickup? A 97 usually gets the Dyna module designed for your year model and still uses the original pickup. The pickups rarely go bad and are usually overlooked.
@@pacificmike9501 it’s a Electra glide 1989, she is naked, I can send you a picture of her. Absolutely, this dry one with a belt is the one that I want to put on her
I still consider your bike "late model." I think it's cause I'm old. But, that 89 came with a nice isolated system that had a wet clutch and a chain that ran through oil. They really work well, are quiet and all is good, if you like it. If your preference is a belt primary, far be it from me to criticize. Be sure to install a new motor seal and spacer. The seal should be installed with the "open side" out. You'll, of course, need to run a dry clutch.
i have a 1997 fat boy it was running then stop now the starter well not turn over the motor is not locked up what could it be i replace the starter relay nothing , it was idling then it just shut off now it won't turn over
Check your ground cable. Your seat may have hit it. This is the first place to look. Check your battery cables. Are your lights working? Let me know. But, by now, you've probably got it.
@@pacificmike9501 i check all the fuses there all good still won't crank over the lights come on but the back brake light is out won't come on when i push the starter button there is power going to the starter relay but won't crank over i'm about to sell it getting tired of it lol
@@DANIEL-gg1ir I would test the wire going to the starter for voltage drop. For example, you could have a starter cable with broken wires inside. It will measure 12 v from battery but will not be able to carry the current required to engage starter. Test the wire under load to see how much voltage is lost under load.
