I am going to give this a try myself. The wife's 2001 Avalon started leaking oil and I decided to change the PCV valve, but in the process found the old "O" ring was very brittle. To my frustration the PCV valve and "O" ring broke and fell into the valve cover so I am now forced to change the gaskets as I am concerned about the plastic pieces getting into contact with the valves and related moving parts. Thanks for the great video!
This is far and away the best video for changing the valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals on the 1MZ-FE. This video was super helpful when changing the gaskets on my 99 Camry. It seemed like everyone else said, "alright, so now we're going to take off the rear valve cover/take out the tube seals" and then cut to everything being done. They skipped the hard parts where you could possibly damage the valve cover.... Awesome video, super thorough, thank you!
Thanks! Great instructional video, helped me on a 2000 Avalon. That one bracket bolt on the back of the intake manifold was a nightmare, it was a 14mm btw.
Hi friend was a great video and huge job!!! Please, please help ..how can I located the correct position of the two ground wires on the intake manifold...I having trouble right now with that....I saw in your nice video....that both ground wires goes together in one point of manifold......its that right ....will appreciate your help for my 2001 avalon, thanks in advance!
Knock sensors and/r connector crapped out on my daughter's car. Changed the plugs while I had everything off. The spark plug in the 6 coil terminal location had oil on it. Found this video and now I know how to fix it. Thanks dude!
Thank you very much for taking the time to make this video. I was having trouble getting the spark plug gaskets off. The rubber was hard and dried up. You are a real life saver. Again, thank you!!
Thank you for taking the time to do this. This is definitely not easy and your effort is appreciated. Hoping to do this on an engine before swapping in and your video will be very helpful.
thank you for your video, and it saved my day when I tried to remove the intake manifold from the engine hanger. I tried couple tools without luck until see how you did it in your video. Thanks again.
Awesome video I did this on my 97 avalon xls it almost the same its a pain but its doable but I had to fix and replace some missing screws some lazy mechanic left out but it got done right and no more leaks woo hoo good vid thanks
Nice video. I was apprehentious about starting this job, but after watching your video i feel much more confident. I will be working on my sisters 99' Avalon 3.0L so now i will know on a surface level what to expect, and what parts i need ahead of time. It is funny how an 8, 10, 12, 13, 17, and 21mm will take apart about anything on a toyota. I have an 04' 4runner that operates under the same logic. Thanks again!
Studs (90080-12001): Earlier this year I needed to move my wiring harness to replace my valve cover gasket on my 1MZ-FE. I was attempting to remove the studs after I had removed the HEX caps for the engine cover. The studs sheared off at the middle as I used the correct E-6 socket. How do I get the broken studs out of the valve cover?
Thank you for sharing your expertise, it is very good information and tips. The very good mechanics, honesty and kind heart is hard to find. I have a 2000 Avalon and I notice that a little wt oil around the gaskets, I just wondered how much it would cost me to replace the gaskets in you opinion.
After struggling to get that last support bolt out on the back of the intake, I found that I could get the plugs out by just removing the throttle body and with the right extension and spark plug socket. It was tight but I managed.
Thanks for The video, replaced mine and didn’t put enough silicone and it leaked out all my oil! Be warned for anyone else to make sure to follow closely! Don’t make the mistake I did
I have no check engine light just oil leaking, 2002 toyota avalon very similar , thinking of attempting this job my self, what parts do recommend to change as gaskets, pcv valve.. and is the part u were waiting on from toyota necessary to replace? also t6 tool is that a hex tool? or 6 point
Can you get to the rear exhaust manifold from the top? I am going to need to replace the rear valve cover and also the rear exhaust manifold gasket. So I might as well do both at the same time. I can hear ticking and smell exhaust through the vents. There is very little info about how to get to the manifold though.
Thanks so much for this video. This is exactly the same job I’m about to tackle next week, on my mother-in-laws Avalon. I think 19 years of original gaskets says volumes for the quality of Toyota products. But I have a feeling this will take me 8-9 hours. Yikes.
I think I heard you say,couldn't have original plugs with 200,000 miles.Reason I need to do this is because of normal valve cover leak,I have 3 generations of Avalon and 2000 model was accidentally skipped on Plugs. 243,000 miles on originals with no misfires.Im scared though they might be hard to remove.Guess I will find out soon,Thanks for making vid.
Does ANYONE know where the right point to jack an 03 Avalon from the front is? It looks like there's a spot just underneath where the front valve cover is, but it's different from the owners manual? For the record, maybe not for this vehicle, but on mine there was a right/left (back/front) variable valve timing parts (the oil control valves). I'm guessing if you choose to replace one you should definitely replace the other...
just one thing the PCV valve is a check valve. if you blow in it you can get air one way, but not the other that's how you can check it properly. But you're right it's the number one reason why people blow valve cover gaskets. And it does recycle and vent crankcase pressure in gases. 👍
Please, please help with the two ground wires location on the manifold...... which is the specific point ...and are both ground wires going together, will appreciate your help..
I could never get a wrench or ratchet on that 14mm bolt on the manifold bracket. I cut the bracket in half with a pneumatic saw. Then I welded a little piece of flat-stock back on there and threaded a hole so that I could take the bracket apart in the future if needed. I spent probably 6 or 7 hours total trying to remove that bolt before sawing it in half. Not to mention the stripped 10mm bolt holding a ground wire.
some guys on their videos use a bit of some kind of glue/sealant they use or glue for the back gasket on the back cover so it doesn't flop or fall around and trying to get it in there but then you said you were going to be raising the engine up and loosening the brackets that hold a manifold on so I guess that would work too to give you room to put the rear cover on
Great video, thank you for taking the time! to do it. Curious, have watched a few videos doing similar repair, not seeing anyone add a new upper intake manifold gasket? is it not needed?
love this.. but I have a serious question I'm trying to replace the front valve cover gaskets, do I still need to take off the rear cover to do the front only I have a 2000 Avalon with a leak only in the front
You can just do the front, but ideally you want to do them both at the same time as the back will inevitably leak since it will be more worn out than the new gasket in front. Plus once you get around to doing the back, you'll have the same problem in the front, and you'll be working with an old gasket piece that you would have got with the set doing the front.... so, IDEALLY avoid the merry-go-round, and do them both.
Aight guys im back, did this job for the first time and took me about one full day and half on the next day , was finished by 2 pm, started and 8: 30 both days,,, Got a lil confused on what bolts had to come off the engine ended but being a 4ml 6 point torks bit...and you only need to take off two that are right above the valve cover holding a black rail of sensor on avalon 02 xe model, pretty sure its that same for 01 my car was identical, Behind throttle you just need to disconect the 14 ml bold and the u can take of ground after the 10 ml is unessasry Full moons come of just like he said tap it gently with a extension or something but gently like said they come of and you know clean up good i i used a paper clip softly.... Next taking the o ring seals can be tricky but do as he says pry the clips first then pull the rings out just like a bike tire it will come put it under the entire ring with out touching the rim The rest should be fun Oh going under the car is uncessary put on a thick long sleeve while you attempt to go behind the throtle and u can disconect and reconnect both bottom of bolth the throttle body and manifold stick your hand in there the same way u took off the throttle body,... And oh yeah that black wire behind the 2nd cover can be moved to its limit ... Mine did crack and i just kept it raised below that point lol i know that sounds bad Keep n mind i amNot a mechanicAnd ive only done valve covers before on a v4 camry 96 ,engine and tranny mounts on both... Thank you very much (@octaneauto Tips) could have not done it with your video i watched a thousand times before and when i got stuck One more thing changing throlttle body and and intake manifold is also unnessesaryBut i replaced intake manifuld penlum gasket
Good synopsis. I remember thinking I had all the parts and I was ready to go. Then the first thing I saw was the 6 point Torx bolts. I was like, "Oh great, what the heck are those?" = ]
I'll try this anyway. I looked through the comments and didn't see any answers to questions. The Spark plug tube seals. I watched videos and have seen the tube seals installed both ways( easy and hard as you say ) which I installed the hard way according to another video. To me the thinking is like a wheel seal, you have pressure and you don't want that pushing past the seal. The hard way should tighten the seal around the tube with pressure. So which is it ? If you can't take the time to answer , someone please answer this question. I installed Felpro seals just like the ES300 video on RU-vid. The guy with the orange gloves. So please someone let me know. Thanks.
Thanks for effort with video , and good attitude, Lord Jesus bless you , more , His Eternal Salvation, Himself, even while we struggle with salvage down here !
To change the spark plugs I didn't have to remove the throttle body I did 123 an it was my first time changing the coil an spark plugs on my Avalon it was easy at first it gives you a little trouble.but its easy
It is more for convenience to remove the rear valve cover, but it is necessary to loosen the bottom bolt in order to properly thread and tighten the top bolt.
the thermostat should be underneath the right side of the engine ( if you are standing in front of the car looking at the engine). You will need to remove the airbox and resonator to get a good work area.
EGR & Shift Cable Clip: I didn't see you remove the EGR pipe. Does the EGR pipe need to be removed to be able to get the valve cover off? I have a 1MZFE 5sp Camry. Also, how does one get the clip off of the shift cable on top of the transmission?
The EGR Pipe needs to be disconnected from the intake manifold, but you won't need to remove it from the exhaust. You shouldn't have to remove the shift cable from the transmission to replace the valve cover gaskets, though I am yet to do this job on a manual transmission, so I may be mistaken. If it does need to be removed, you should be able to pop the clip off using a set of angled forceps, or a hammer and flat head screwdriver to gently tap it off. Let me know if this helps.
OctaneAutoTips You are absolutely correct!.!.!.! One does not need to remove the EGR pipe in order to remove the valve cover. Was looking at some other videos and the guys mentioned that they removed the EGR pipe. Since I did not need to remove the EGR pipe then one did not need to worry about or remove the 'shift cable clip'. Thanks for the information.
straight up robbery man lol i got quoted 450 for the spark plugs and i changed 3 of them myself so far. trying to figure out how to change the other 3 but if i cant get it i will have it done this weekend by a friend of mine :)
You can do it, I did them all my self and im not small or skinny. just be patient and get some good tools. you gotta feel for the back ones more than you can see them. they make a swivel type spark plug socket, get one.
One of the more annoying aspects of working on engines is disconnecting the plastic electrical connections. There doesn't seem to be any standardization of how the locks work on the connections. Each one is different. And you don't want to break them. A major headache if you do.
It is called the 'Worklight' by Chicago Electric...it can be found at your local Harbour Freight, or you can click the link provided to view via Amazon.com. www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Watt-Work-Light-Magnetic/dp/B006ZB9BYE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407976461&sr=8-1&keywords=chicago+electric+worklight
need help with a smell on my 2001 Toyota Avalon, i have a rubber burning smell coming from under my hood everytime i turn on my car and turn on my fan i can smell it, when i pop the hood open i can see alittle light smoke coming from either or under the manifold? no check engine just wondering what can be the cause, took it too some tech but they don't know thereselve
chengkt09 Without personally looking at your vehicle, I don't want to tell you what you should do, simply because I do not like to operate on assumptions. Your valve cover gasket may very well be leaking, but I cannot confirm that without diagnosing the vehicle myself. If you are in the Triangle area, I would be more than happy to diagnose your problem. If you are out of our area, I recommend you take your vehicle to a certified tech in your area and have your problem properly diagnosed, before you invest any money into repairing it.
you definitely do not need to take the PCV valve off before you take the cover off just a lot easier to pick it up because you can break it and then it won't fall into the Valvevarea what you really don't want
Although your statement certainly has truth, simply tightening the VC bolts without inspecting the gasket is a bit amateurish. I would recommend removing one of the Valve Covers and inspect the gasket...if it seems hard, brittle or cracked, tightening the VC bolts may slow the leak, but it will not stop it. We take pride and guarantee our work...when we inform a client that we have stopped an oil leak, we make sure the leak has been properly and professionally sealed. Especially in a vehicle with Variable Valve Timing, considering how dependent they are on proper oil level and flow.
The 1MZFE valve cover gasket is pretty robust. I had the same issue. Mine leaked because the bolts were so loose that they were almost half way unscrewed. I did tighten them at 200k on original gaskets and didn't have a problem after that. When it came time to change spark plugs, I went ahead and changed them along with the tube gaskets with fel pro gaskets. Sorry, I was merely pointing to an emergency fix
this is why i am just getting new valve cover bolts from the dealership. yeh another $35, but but the design they can bottom out beofre they get to torque.
is the pressure that much great the oil with the past new gaskets wow that's a lot of pressure, I have no idea but I'm more of a DIY than an actual mechanic so.
I saw someone do this by first taking off the parts at the back of the engine compartment-wipers, vent cover, to better access the back of the engine...
these engines were recalled by Toyota for sludging issues. even frequent oil changes won't help this particular engine. they always look dirty even well kept models.
