Hi I saw your video and immediately went to the kitchen grab a roll of the plastic and put it on two of my Windows it was an immediate fix. Now I only need to do it on two other Windows I'm glad I got to see your video. Thanks for sharing
My mom used to take strips of material from old t shirts and use a butter knife to push them down into the open cracks around the windows. It saved us so much money! She had two jobs plus a hobby that brought in money. We all worked hard but we were poor and couldn't afford to have new windows installed. Your idea is great too!!
My 106 year old house and I would like to thank you. I have been doing this to my twenty-eight windows in my house. It works, and it keeps the drafts down.
Thank you sir! Thank you very much for showing us a inexpensive an effective method to save some money! I am always trying to help others to save a dollar and thank you sir for helping us to save a dollar!
Thank you for this! On the opposite of heating bills.... I’m in Texas, it’s August and we’re in the middle of a ridiculous heat wave with temps running up to 105 degrees! My house is about 60 years old and only 1600 square feet, but I have over 30 of these windows that rattle in the wind. The central air runs continuously (I don’t even WANT to see this month’s bill) and a lot of it is air loss. It’s gonna’ take a LOT of plastic wrap...Dollar Tree, here I come! Thanks again for your instructive video!
I live in Devon in England, in rented accommodation and we had a really cold winter last year for what is usually a very mild climate and our electricity bill was huge so will definately be using your tip for our sash windows. Well done Mate, for such an economical solution.
Thanks for the video...I used to pack mine with old newspaper (59 of them in my house...and they all look like yours ..some of them not even as nice lol) but am definitely going to start this project this weekend and see how it goes! Thanks again!
This is awesome! I live in Florida Very Very Hot Summer, just tinted all my house windows Mirror tint 5 % and just finished doing this procedure with the plastic wrap! I have old Metal Windows with some air infiltration so I want the Cool air to stay inside!! Great video! Thanks
That is an ingenious trick. I will be doing that rather than wasting my time and money on these plastic window cover kits that can rip or bulge out on a windy, winter day. I want to be able to see the deer and other things during the winter and not have to look through a distorted window with sheet plastic on it. I am glad I found this video and thank you for sharing this trick with us.
What a help! My home is REALLY old (built around 1767) and I cannot afford new windows. This cheap and easy solution is for me. You can't even see it!!!
I actually just did this for my own house today (hasn't really gotten that cold before, and I've be hella busy). One day and about $5.25 in materials, BOOM! Window air infiltration mitigation complete! One of the real benefits to the plastic wrap over almost anything else is it's ability to easily fill almost any size space. Everything from stretching it thin for tight spaces, to packing it thick in big spaces, just one cheap roll of raw material does it all.
This is fabulous! Thank you for posting it. I've already given up on my first try with the window film. I know I can handle this without the "vocabulary" I was using before. Thanks!
This video offers an alternative to your suggestion (sheeting across windows) because: 1) I've never seen sheeting tape stick, stay, and keep blocking air for an entire season; 2) If the tape does stick well enough, it often damages paint or stain; 3) Sheeting across the window degrades view from window. That's why I'm offering this as an alternative to sheeting to mitigate air infiltration. That said, surface sheeting *does* help block thermal transfer through window.
What is also super helpful and budget friendly is bubble wrap. Measure your windows, cut the bubble wrap. Spray Windex or warm water on the window, then just stick the bubble wrap up against the pane where you sprayed. Should add some additional budget insulation along with this.
Thanks for taking time to show us this trick. I have modern vinyl windows with coated, argon filled, glazing. They have a great EPA rating -- BUT, they leak air like crazy. I'm going to try some Saran wrap to see if I can make them better. I also saw another video where a lady just bunched up some used some plastic grocery bags and put them on the bottom sill and closed the window on top of them.
Thanks! Please let me know how it works out. Exact same principle as the grocery bags, but rolls of plastic wrap are cheap (currently $1.25/roll here), and having a uniform sheet on a roll makes the application process a lot easier than dealing with a bunch of bags. IMHO. You might find you have to sheer the sheeting in half on your windows, but if they leak much, probably not.
hello; thank you so much for sharing this. I have old windows as well. This is a great idea and yes, its cheap. A solution for your window glass, bubble wrap!!!! get a spray bottle and fill it with water. Spray the window and spray the side of bubble part and put it on the window. I am 50 years old and need to save as much as I can. Your idea along with the bubble wrap. I am looking to only spend below 50 a month. Thanks again.
Thank you for this! Window in my room looks like yours and is so loose it rattles whenever it's windy + the air makes my curtains move, so I will definitely try this!
Wow my house built 1828 your windows look like mine. I'm in Missouri its 18 degrees at 615 pm my house is drafty but we're survivors of the we worst storm and I will fo this this week thanks
@@annvaughn8974 I bet the newspaper works pretty well too. Please let me know if you think the plastic is any better than the newspaper, if you do it. Thanks!
Pretty cool idea and application! My house is 150+ yrs. old and the windows leak air like a sieve. I've been using the plastic sheet insulation kits (first by 3M, now Frost King) for about 15 yrs., and swear by them. You are correct re: the tape- the surface it is applied to must be roughed up a little if painted- I use sandpaper- then cleaned- I use rubbing alcohol- to ensure a seal that will last the winter. I can buy a box of 3 F.K. 62"x42" sheets (which includes the tape) for $4. I have no problem seeing through the plastic. Literally, people cannot tell it has been applied. When I first began using these sheets, I used the outside ones. Once applied, I could raise the window and it would feel as if it was still closed. That's what sold me on the effectiveness of these sheets. These days I use the much easier to apply indoor sheets. Also, I've never used a blow dryer to tighten the plastic- I just stretch side-side and top-bottom as needed to get a real tight, and clear, fit.
Ive got same kind of windows, cold air in winter and wasps come in the gaps when they are shut! Omg..i sellotaped newspaper along the sash bolt section to keep wasps out so hot in summer my landlord will not replace the windows, i have old trousers alongvthe middle sash bit and door draught excludercalong the bottom sill blinds always shut, thanks for your vid i will try everthing, freezing ....👍
You're welcome! Let me know how it works out for you with the metal and thermal stress like that. The plastic might degrade a lot quicker under those circumstances. We've left some of our windows unpacked this summer, but left a few packed as well. Against wood without heat extremes, the plastic wrap seems to be good for a couple of years if you leave it alone. But, I like big open windows in the spring and fall, too.
this is so awesome! I just re did my wooden windows and the weather stripping just isn't cooperating at the moment. when it warms up again I'll try then, but in the mean time, I'm going to get some grocery bags! they will be perfect sized! thanks!
Interesting idea. Should work well. I see a mention in various comments about replacing old windows. Remember a lot of the old windows are a lot better constructed sashes and old growth woods. I live in an old house built in 1840 and have old windows. New windows especially cheap replacement windows and even more expensive ones often don't live up to the claims. If they are not installed well you will have leaks and they just don't have the same historic look. Going double pane seems like a great idea but your old single pane window can be retrofitted to be just about as efficient. If you eliminate the weight system found in many you can insulate cavity where the weight was. If you get a replacement window and don't deal with that situation you will not get the energy savings you want. Many installers will not be doing that without additional cost. Remember if you get a cheap vinyl replacement windows that you are getting exactly that - cheap. It can break down overtime will never last as long as your original windows. Many of these windows are worth saving. I would suggest this a possible course of action. First, get jamb liners for the windows. This is a track which will grab the sides of the windows top to bottom which will stop the air infiltration along the sides, you can get a vee strip or felt at the bottom to fix that part, and insert a vee strip between the sashes. I have jamb liners on my house. There used to a type made of metal but I haven't found it. I think the company is gone. You can find vinyl ones - see the links below. Second, as part of this jamb liner installation pull off the trim and insulate the pocket here the weights live. I'm in favor of expanding foam or a board board combined with foam insulation. Foam will completely block air infiltration where fiberglass will not. Third, get high quality storm windows. The Harvey Tru-Channel windows works very well. They are designed for energy efficiency I personally have them in my house. They really help keep both noise and air flow to a minimum. They are custom fit to your windows. They can make a good first step as once they are in place you can take out the windows to do your steps mentioned earlier. These work much better than the usual triple track storm windows you have seen in the past. Good luck! Products: Jamb Liners - some ideas. There maybe other types. windowpartsusa.com/ jrproductsinc.com/product/double-hung-window-jamb-liners/ products.blainewindow.com/BWH0021.php?task=filter&ECLASS_filt=1&EPROD_filt=A62 Harvey Tru-Channel: www.harveybp.com/our-products/windows/tru-channel-storm-window/
Thanks for the comments. One of the main reasons I haven't replaced the windows is, I want really good quality replacements, if I do it. For an old house like mine with huge custom size windows, that's expensive! But, I'm not putting cheap vinyl windows in this house. Unfortunately this house has been poorly maintained, it was an upstairs/downstairs rental for nearly 40 years before it got de-converted and I bought it. The current window frames are trash. Rotted, warped, coming apart... If they were in better condition, I'd consider new panes. But, I think one of the main points of using cheap plastic film that's quick and easy to put in and quick and easy to take back out, pretty much replaces all of the other window things.
@@h4x354x0r, my daughter just got an older house and I passed along your technique. She's got storm windows already and they mostly work reasonably well. Her windows need paint and they are loose but solid. My house was built in 1840 and most of the windows were in pretty good shape as someone had put on some triple track storms a long while ago and also put in some jamb liners that I had mentioned. Most of my liners are metal with a pressure spring on the edge that holds it tight and those keep leakage to a minimum. I think the company that made those has unfortunately gone out of business. When renovating we were expanding in the back of the house and had to buy windows for there. I wanted something as authentic as possible. Marvin had double pane windows that had a real muntin but I had a hard time getting past the width of it. I think it was 3/4 or 7/8 inch. It was just too wide. We ended up using Pella Architect Series. They are wood windows and had the same 5/8 muntin as my original windows. The muntin is fake but they have a section that goes between the glass that make it look pretty good. You don't see that gap like with the snap on muntins. It's been 15 years and they have worked well. It just wish I had ordered aluminum screens instead of fiberglass. They weren't cheap but not the most expensive either. About 5 years ago we replaced about a dozen of out downstairs old triple track windows with the Harvey Tru-Channel with low E glass and aluminum screens. This would be particularly useful on my large living room windows. I kept careful track of the therms used and did see an noticeable improvement after insulation. I get few drafts and plan to install them in the upstairs now. You pay around $150 for them depending upon the size. You can see how much better they are built and are designed not to bow in as the wind presses against them. They are protecting the old windows well and keeping the air infiltration to a minimum. Since we are talking about energy, a couple of years ago we installed spray foam insulation on the underside of the roof. That's about 10-12" of low density foam and that is in addition to about 2" of high density on top of the ceiling below installed back in 2004. It's never cold or warm in the attic space and all of this has really reduced our energy use here in upstate NY - especially in the winter. It's a dead air space now and no problem with ice dams any longer.
The only solution for that issue is another face sheet of plastic to create a 'dead air' space for better insulation. The problem is the difficulty in getting really good adhesion of the plastic around the edges of the window, when the force of pull is usually perpendicular to the pull of adhesion. Be sure to really clean the living daylights out of any surface, before applying any kind of adhesive.
Can this method be used during the hot months too? Curious. Winter is almost over where I live, it would be nice to use this and save on bills because we need to use AC. Thanks
You bet! Now that I have central air in my whole house, I do use this to block air exchange in the summer as well as winter. It doesn't make as big a difference just because the relative heat differentials and dynamics of the process, but it's still better than nothing, and it's still really quick & easy to put in and take back out as needed.
Tips: fully clean windows & frames prior to doing this...for those in very cold zones, fill a pantyhose leg with kitty litter, tie off end & lay between storm & main windows--it isn't very visible, looks fine (I pushed mine flat & covered with a nice cloth towel type material) & the litter absorbs moisture preventing potential frost! 😀
Bwahaha! My do-rag is a signature piece of clothing. I used to have a nice mane, but then I got old and now my hair is just patches of scruffy crap. I usually keep it covered up with a bandanna.
There is even more cheap way of insulating wooden old windows. Cut long enough paper stripes. Prepair glue using flour and boiled water. Glue the stripes onto window frames sealing gaps, cracks.
So what, I have only one window in the kitchen that is this type and the air that come in during the winter is freezing. The window is above my sink so it's so cold to stand and do dishes, etc.
Hi Ned, a few questions; 1. What on earth is on your head? 2. Why is there are high pitched squeal the whole way through the video? 3. Why did you use the frame rate and video length, rather than a clock to time yourself? 4. Why do you refer to sash windows as double-hung windows?
LOL you don't actually want answers, do you? Too bad... 1. It's called a doo-rag 2. Dunno, nobody has ever complained about it before, and I don't hear it when I listen to the video. 3. It's a teaching moment, meant to educate people about the relationship between frame rates and video lengths for timelapse videos 4. Because, they are literally double-hung sash windows. There are 2 types of sash windows: Single-hung, where only one of the two parts moves (some new vinyl windows I purchased for another part of my house are single-hung sash windows); and Double-hung, where both upper and lower windows can move. I assure you, the windows in the video are the latter type, not the former.
Why don’t you scrape and paint the wood? The results will at least look better. Or do you like ‘scuzzy’? Also, get the heat gun application. It’s pretty cheap.
I've tried that, the foam seal is not nearly as complete or effective, especially for wider gaps, and it gets damaged too easily, because cats & children. IMHO still the next best solution though. I do like the operability of the window but every time you move it, it tears up the foam and degrades the seal a bit.
What about people who rent? They can't just replace windows. I'm personally not going to hang cheap, crappy windows in my house for the insulation; really good quality windows of the size found in my house are very expensive. They will eventually all be replaced, but in the meantime, this video shows a very cheap, quick, and easy way to provide some insulation to existing windows.
yes of course You right .Your way it is a great idea .You know You can save lot of money replacing windows Your self .if You looking in to triple glazing and all the bells ,is not worth the price .regular replacement window will do just fine I suggest aluminum ones .Check my video insulating windows frames and wall with foam
Decent idea but it would make more sense to re-use any plastic sheeting or bubble wrap from old packaging rather than to use new plastic wrap which is an environmental curse from a whole bunch of different angles.
New storms may help but you may still have air leaks from the old windows on the inside. It takes 2 air block layers to make an insulation effect. If the inside leaks, the outside storms wont help much (due to convection plus draft).
appreciate ur video, but why not use the grocery store, reused plastic? anything can be used that is going in the land fill to make those slaves lives more misreable. Even though we only pay dollar, it takes a lot more than a dollar to make that plastic wrap. War, slavery have been paying for it.
Plastic grocery bags work fine; it's the exact same principle, just a different material. There are several of reasons why *I* personally don't use them: 1) We already use what few plastic grocery bags we end up with for other purposes (we have reusable canvas grocery bags); 2) Just handling and using the grocery bags for this process takes more time; 3) A continuous single sheet will result in a better seal than many smaller pieces of plastic; 4) the plastic wrap has some properties of "stickiness" that the grocery bags don't. I understand your point about slavery, but the same is still true for the grocery bags too. I'm not increasing my overall use of "slavery" products, just choosing to use different ones. No better, but at least not worse.
I use canvas bags too. For house use I get them from the recycle bin. I get all kind of good plastic and have used grocery store clear soft bags in old windows. Yes the seran wrap is a bit better and I reuse the deli one. thanks for your time
No. save that money spend one dollar rather than 7 or 8 on any given day who doesnt want to save. the same with newspapers they are great insulators as well as window cleaners and many other uses. What's wrong with saving