this is my redemption video from my last intake vid I did when I was 19. now you get to see me do everything. enjoy. everything is done by the book and set to proper specifications. SBF rebuild
Great series there ThunderHead289. You taught me a lot of things I didn't understand in the manuals. I will use this information on my 66 289 rebuild. I've done a bunch of work on old Mustang motors but somethings they don't show you in the books. Thank you!
I guess Im asking randomly but does someone know a tool to log back into an Instagram account? I was stupid forgot the account password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me
@Ezra Rhett thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Just finished by budget rebuild by myself. ( Amazing how many friends are eager to give direction, but never show up. Or if they show up they are not as sure as they sounded talking it out. haha). So out of all the people I asked for help with this not one showed up. Two work at hot rod shops and talk about rebuilding all the time. One of the guys races at the local track, but I dont think he even knows what anything below the intake looks like. So with all that being said you were the only help I had. Very easy to watch, and you break the videos up to short segments that I can watch on my phone sitting in front of the motor. I sincerely appreciate the time you took to make the videos. If I were you this would be my full time hobby. The level of detail in the videos shows you dedication to a craft. Whats most impressive is you were able to make videos on instruction that completely take a shade tree mechanic from start to finish on a complete rebuild. That is something companies pay millions to try to figure out every day. I thank you for your time. I have two questions though. I torqued the rockers with the rocker fully open, and one fully closed. I still have valve covers off. Should I torque both on fully open? Also I bought new Head bolts. There were the correct amount of intake and exhaust bolts. There were also two bolts that had red thread tape on them. They were studs instead of just bolts. They have a bolt nut half way down like so threaded on both sides. Each box had one in it. What does that go to?
chris Byers thank you very much, i try to make it all simple as possible. i run a solid lifter engine and how i adjust valves is with the opposing valve at its full opened dwell. so if the intake is open, il adjust the exhaust. are these head bolts that you are referencing as head studs?
Yes they are head bolts. Came in the box with the head bolts. I am guessing they screw into the side of the head. This is being used a a Marine motor so I don't need them there. I am using the same heads and there weren't any studs there . So I think I got it. So what I did on valve adjustment was turn crank and every time a lifter was at full dwell I torqued it to spec. So all were at full dwell when I torqued.
Enjoyed the video, it is a great refresher since I have not worked on a small block Ford in a long time. Bringing a 289 Mustang back to life. Thank You.
Also wanted to add, on the 302s ive rebuilt there are 2 kinds of Felpro intake gasket kits, the ones with the little cork gaskets for the intake ends that are worthless, the ones i assume you were talking about, the other ones that i always use, the rubber ones, are outstanding,never had a issue and they even have the little rubber plug guide holes that are built into the block. i always dab a little silicone in the corners and it seals like a champ, not a big fan of the big bead without a gasket cause if you ever need to remove the lower intake is major pita but its a matter of preference, thank you for the videos, they are excellent!!!
Nice work. I had a question on the 20ft/lbs intake torque. Have you had any blown head gasket problems with that? I have heard that 10-15ft/lbs is better due to the fact they aren't lifting the heads (working against the head bolts). I'm using ARP head bolts just in case.
Great video as usual I keep finding your nuggets as I need them. Question - at 20ft lbs, (or in general) any issues with using the manifold when you do an engine lift ?
Ever use Right Stuff for gaskets it's the best I think? and I made a small copper air blower to clean out dead end bolt holes one time years ago I cracked a manifold because some water was in a bolt hole and when I tightened it up it cracked. Very nice info and nice build.
Wow. I am mind blown with how many questions you've answered. I love these 289's and i want to get my hipo restored. (sister got the disassembled engine from a guy that had his pistons hit the valves. How does that happen on one of these engines? It has 10:1 vs my 8.2:1 2bbl I have in my jeep right now. Wanting to do the 4 barrel swap! What cam would you recommend for a jeep with 5.38's and an automatic. You seem to be the 289 guru lol Help would be great! Thanks in advance
Lol will u plz hurry up & "tap out!".... I need that motor for my mustang now!!!! Jus kidding!!! Looks nice keep up the good work!! I'm working on mine too! HO 302 89 fox body... fuel injected... Can't wait to finish! The Intake u have accents the engine nicely!!!! U go homie!!!! Lol!!!
Very informative. My 302 leaks exactly there, where the front/back gaskets meet the intake gaskets. I'm a lazy pig, so I'll try to plug it from the outside using liquid gasket first.
Getting ready to pull my 2nd set of Fel Pro gaskets off of my sbc that didn't seal around the intake runner. I don't care if they have silicone around the runner ports, it doesn't seal worth a crap. I used to always use a thin film of silicone on the runners and never had a leak, but now everyone says don't do that so I have leaks.
Luke, When you refer to gasket sealer, are you talking about a silicone type sealant ? Have you ever heard of “Perfect Seal” gasket maker sealant number 4 ? As a heavy tonnage air conditioning guy, I’ve used this on flange gaskets for years and never have any leaks on the refrigerant side. I guess I’m wondering what kind of gap, we are talking about ? Because perfect seal isn’t too thick. By the way, I LOVE all of your videos. Extremely easy to follow, but loaded with a ton of extra information. Plus, it’s refreshing to see that you don’t take yourself too serious. A little bit of levity goes a long way. 😝 Based on your choices of who you follow, I’ve given a look at their videos and actually like quite a few of them as well. Although I seem to have noticed that when something breaks, they definitely rely on you to help them fix the problem .
+Eric Alvarez depends on what they are building. but for 5 grand, that would be like the best 302 i could build. plan to do mild performance 302 builds here in a year for roughly 2000-2500. good aluminum heads and cam and whatnot. should make 300 ponies to wheels.
Well i have a 92 ford ranger I'm just trying to go with the basic rebuild right now I feel like that 400hp on the modified 302s is to much for me rite now. So I just want the extra push. Then again I want to be able to smoke go mustangs 2008 and down lol. 6 cylinders is not enough lol bs 150 hp or less What do you recommend ? Just a 302 and get it rebuilt as factory no tune ?
Hey 289, you have did a great job on these videos. I do have a question on water the port on the right front. Is it corroded with crud, or is that as clean as it would get. I'm just asking. I like I said have enjoyed your videos. Thank you.
gene wiley it was clean and was not blocked at all from what i remember. cleaned it out as best i could short of having the engine boiled. glad you liked the videos and i hope they helped you!
+v8power its some copper colored sealer package. might even say copper on it, the sealer is orange. i may not have used it in this video, but it is by far the best i have found.
what's the part number for those felpro gaskets? I have trickflow heads and edelbrock performer intake on my 87 mustang gt and I have to replace my lower gasket
I make a mistake when I install intake gasket i inverted it (up side &lower side) Does I need to unstall the intake again It’s looks for me as the same only one side have prominence
I was wondering if you could help me out I have the 289 edelbrock performer intake manifold but I'm missing also don't know except for temp sender as to what holes to plug up and what should be going towards the whole on the intake manifold. Where the air flows and also the water passages do you have a write up or video or know where I can find the info
I’ve heard a lot of different things about sealing the front and back of intake some say use the sealer and some say to use the rubber gasket that most kits come with and using sealer on the ends? Is there any pros or cons to either ?
your doing a nice job but on the ex. valve rotators they need to be checked to see if they turn real good if not replace they turn to keep the ex. valve cool thats there purpose on stock motors
How imperative do you think it is to put the rtv on the water ports? The felpro’s I used had the raised blue beads on the ports on intake side... intake is all tq’d without silicone on the water ports... should I give it a go or tear it back apart? @thunderhead289
ThunderHead289 The gasket's them selves! Spray both sides???? I just decided to follow your instructions, looks like you know your stuff! I was just curious about the ultra copper!
So you recommended Pertronix Distributor and Summit Carb, what Intake did you install? I was looking at going with Edelbrock for carb and intake, are the ones you recommended higher quality?
Melody Franklin there are numerous ways to go on the top end - just get yourself a brand name high quality distributor/ignition system - msd, or pertronix. As far as the intake, it all depends what you are doing with the engine. If you don’t have a radical cam by any means andnyou daily drive the car - I’d recommend the edelbrock dual plane performer 289 unit. On the carb, I highly recommend the summit 600. Search edelbrock vs Holley and watch the video I put out - it introduces the summit at the end and it’s advantages over both!
Question on intakes. I’m running stock compression pistons under gt40 iron heads with a comp 280h cam. I currently have an original edlebrock 289 torquer (angled carb) intake. The motor revs like crazy but I’m having difficulty dialling in the low end throttle response for daily driving. Unfortunately running arround at 2500 rpm is a little hard on fuel. Was thinking of going to a dual plane maybe to help compensate for the cams vacuum characteristics and get a little better low end?
Hmm. That should be able to idle around 1000-1200 pretty easy with that set up. What is your initial timing? Are you running porter or manifold on your vacuum advance? Have you set your throttle blade position for the transfer slot and set up the mix screws properly?
Hi Luke! I know this is an old video, but still important to me at this time. I see your gaskets have the heat transfer area cut out. My fel pro 460 BBF gaskets do not. Should I block off the heat transfer port with a very very thin piece of steel under the gasket after I cut out the gasket area where there is no hole? And ultra black RTV under both sides? Thanks, I hope you see this. Thanks Luke, cheers from Motown/Dearborn.
Howdy! It's all in what you want to do, I've done it and not done it before - of you are going to drive in the winter where it's 40s or below, I would - but then be sure to run an insulative carb spacer to keep the summer intake heat off the carb and you'll be golden 🙂
+Bernie Ramone i made another intake manifold video i will be posting up soon, i cant stress enough a few things. intake mating surfaces need to be free of gasket, oil, and contaminants, and also the bolts must be ran down little by little and in the proper pattern. when i do this myself, i go through the tightening sequence at least 20 times if not more. at least ten times with just snugging it down with a normal wrench. the crappy thing about these engines is that the intake is a wedge shape, and if one side is tightened down a little more than the other, it will tighten down off center. also, once you reach the desired torque, keep going through your torque sequence until the wrench clicks off the second you exert a force on each bolt. you will go around 15 or so times with your torque wrench at 20. be sure to use atleast grade 5 bolts btw. other than that, sorry to hear your trouble. intakes on the sbf and sbc are a tricky business to get right and i am doing my best to show others how to get it right. this is why i am working to put together another video that is more in depth to be uploaded very soon!
Yes, the AOD is your overdrive of choice. You would want the one before it went to electronic control - can't remember the year. You will need an altered driveshaft length with a different tranny
ok see ive been looking and they are all 12 point bolts and washers but I like the studs like you have it makes it easier in my opinion but ill keep looking if any info on part numbers or anything please let me know and again thank you
the opening photo is the old engine from my f100. im actually finishing the new build on it this weekend. should be a good one. hope I don't put the truck in the ditch with it.
ha, i get what you mean now. different opening vid than what i use now. i just typed in guys under hood i9n google images. its actuallly a photo from hobby lobby.
I have a 66tbird with a 390 fe engine. It's tired. Can I put a 302 engine in there and get the same hp as the 390 (315 hp). and what's the weight differences between my Ford fe 390 vs a Ford 302.👍
I don't have exact numbers, but it's way lighter. Why you will run into as an issue is the bellhousing size. The fe bell will not fit the 302. But you could easily drop in a c4 and make the same power.
+Andrew Ross this was a cheap one off of ebay hence the budget build. i think i paid 130 for it. iv used them before and they are machined evenly, just a bit of a rougher casting.
You like to use alot of gasket sealer....but is that also what ford says to do when rebuilding these engines? I am a believer of letting the gasket do its job...like the valve covers for example. Is it that imperative to put the sealer down?
Absofreakinlutely is. Do it exactly as I show, or you will regret it. As for valve covers, always put sealer on the side of the gasket that mates with the valve cover. That way when removed, the gasket stays with the valve cover
@@ThunderHead289 10-4. I am in process of rebuilding my 302. I didn't pull the engine. I regret it. But I do as I'm told lol it's my father in laws. You make me want to buy studs. I guess the gasket sealer will hold that gasket in place whenever I drop the manifold on
@@ThunderHead289 and my engine tech gasket doesn't have a head side labeled or a front side. Does it matter if it doesn't have it? As long as I get the tabs under the gasket?
I had a c6 bolted to my 302 in my mustang. it was too much for the motor. but it will work. I had to use a flywheel and a starter for a FMX trans to make it work. but i'd never use it again. trans need way more hp than the little 302 gave me
the summit 600 vacuum secondary. its a very cheap and powerful carb. here is my review of the carb: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SXeHt8EZEIU.html
lemkelegion the heads were different as well as the cam profile and design. the mustangs ran the e7 heads while the truck engine ran the e6 heads. the e6 heads are designed for low end torque, below 3500. the cam profile is also more for low end torque. ford could not actually acheive this profile with a roller cam so the truck engines had a flat tappet design. other than that there is no difference. they are both designed with a special job in mind. i ran basically this identical engine in my 74 f100 and it really pulled hard up to 4500 with a 4 barrel and still got 24 miles to the gallon average.
chris Byers that would be quite a deal! it cost me 600 to do the engine, which includes the 200 dollar purchase price of the block. a lot of recondition time though. i sold the engine for 1500 i believe. i set the carb and timing for it and as far as i know, still running in the mustang it went in.
If it's a manual, it will probably bolt to the bellhousing though a mustang t5 is preferred. If automatic, use a cable driven aod with the lokar aid kit
That's one that I keep hearing the T5 .... It's a 5speed manual truck. I think im going to start off by buying the block and then buying the parts and follow your videos. I'm a first timer that's why I'm asking a lot but, it almost seems like it's possible. I'm going to take the risk most likely.
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Just watched the series over the last two nights, good stuff man nicely done. I got a reco 302 that I'm putting into an old Mercedes. steemit.com/mercedes/@stevencr00k/1975-mercedes-w116-v8-conversion-the-mercstang I bought it reconditioned but might do it some day so your videos will come in handy...
