International 4700 : Adding EGT gauge, turning up fuel, trying to fix rear end 

The first thing I did with my 4700 was pitch the7.3 In the trap pile and installed a DT466E in it and love it. Now it's a great little truck.

When you drill and tap a hole like that if you pack the drill or tap with grease it will keep most of the shavings from going thru.

dam you never fail to surprise me with your ingenuity. The tool you fabricated is GENIUS! They say "Necessity is the mother of invention" and this is an example of that for sure.

Great video Jesse. Man, there is a lot going on in this video. That Freightliner is practically new. $4000 looks like a steal. As far as selling the International, when you get the new truck up and running, keep the Int'l for a season and see how much you use it or need it. Very impressed with the mechanic work you do!

Another "GREAT" video where you put your heart and soul into fault finding, Best wishes from the U/K.

Suggestion: when attaching two dissimilar metals like the steel bolts into the aluminum housing of your two speed unit, always put some anti-seize on the threads or they will gall and you'll have the same problem again.

Jesse you don't put out a lot of videos but when you do they are gems. It's so interesting watching you tackle a project. Keep the truck, don't give up on it. Well done Jesse I wish I had your energy.

Imagine having a buddy like Jesse when you bought your first junker car that had a different issue every week? Jesse is the real deal. Been enjoying these last few repair vids! Thanks for taking us along. I’m one of those home mechanics that first thing I check when I have an issue is the blinker fluid

Based on the 500K miles on the truck I expect that the planetary gears in the rear are worn out. If the previous owners or operators didn't know how to properly shift it they probably were grinding the gears. They planetary gear engages when you select the low range. They are probably causing it to pop out of low. I'm fairly confident your problem is in the differential. I hope this helps.

These old school trucks are worth their weight in Gold. Everything is simple and fixable. Parts are rather cheap and can be found very cheap used or in salvage yards.

Good work Jesse, For the boot to blowout like that, it might be an indication of the vent for the diff being restricted.

Great video, one quick suggestion. If you wipe grease on the drill / tap, it will lubricate and catch a fair amount of the shavings as you drill / tap. Great video and excellent instructions for EGT add-on as well as the tweak for the FI.

Great video Jesse. Glad you got a newer better truck. Can't wait to see the video showing you repair the new one. Have a great day.

To test the rear end hi/low mechanism, I would remove the electronic box, weld a small piece to housing to hold the shifter in hi or low position, drive it around see if it holds the gear, if it does than the problem is the electronic board in the shifter box, if it doesn't stay in gear, than the problem obviously is in the differential gears.

Good troubleshooting! Pausing to watch the sunset was great too. Sometimes it’s important to appreciate the simple things.

I know from personal experience how difficult it can be to work in uncomfortable, cramped, tight spaces, which makes it all the more amazing that you are able to capture those great video clips to share with the world. I also know how much more planning, time, effort, and countless hours of editing it takes to capture those awesome video clips, which is a level of effort that very few content creators are willing to do. Your work on this channel is simply genius and definitely rises above the crowd.Many thanks for doing this herculean task for the rest of us!

Dam when I first bought my 05 f450 I was putting 6 tons of gravel on it. That's incredible 6.5 tons on that international. Wow! And it was cool to see all u did to the good ol girl. Lots less crap to deal with on those older trucks. Thanks for sharing!!!

Good Morning Jesse, Another great video! You have a knack for finding a problem and following it back to the root cause. In today's example, you are getting out in front of the potential problem of what can happen north of 1200 degrees with the installation of the EGT & boost gauges. Nice to see you turn up the fuel too! You do a great job! Thank You!

Jesse you have too much slop in the the ring and pinion that swap causes the two speed to move back and forth cuz the two speed also probably has a little wear in it inside the ring and pinion and this is why it pops out of low great video

So much pain in trying to fix that rearend! I give you credit. I eagerly await those Freightliner videos. Love the channel.

Honestly, I don't know why I read the comments, (this is one of the few channels where I do) because I know next to NOTHING about thingamajig limiters and the like, BUT I do enjoy and appreciate your methodical approach to problem solving. And, to my untrained brain, I think your vids have improved immeasurably. I enjoy watching them, the comments and look forward to your working on the new truck. Nice job, Sir.

Great video Jesse. Man i love that 1990 international 4700 . but when you need to move up you move up. that is a nice Freightliner FL70. great video,

Another great tool fabricated by @Jesse! You should put some flat spots on the outer socket.

Bud,pyro sensor needs to go after the turbo on the exhaust side,all you're basically doing is the temp at the cylinder its installed opposite too,also that air cleaner restriction gauge(what's left of it) sucks on the clean side.....if it's open to atmosphere it will ,or has been sucking dirty/dusty air,maybe the motor is just dusted. DT466's had a habit of snapping at the end of the crankshaft to the flywheel, the later DT466B's defined that the crankshaft was better machined with a increased radius curve at the flywheel to crank. If it's not a "B",we use to call them turning time bombs! Good luck!!

Nice video man. I own a busy auto repair shop in Rhode Island and I enjoy watching your videos.

Man... LOVED the vid! I truly enjoy your stuff! Love fact that you explain things in simplistic way. Thank you for taking us along, my friend. Already anticipating the next video!

I really do enjoy watching you do maintenance work on vehicles 🚗 Jesse, it’s also really cool that you can (like Mr Andrew Camarata) do these things and only have to pay for parts, well done and I will look forward to seeing with you do next.

Just a note your EGT set-up is only monitoring the front three cylinders, which usually run a tad cooler. To monitor both back and front cylinders you would require two sensors. That said the EGT set-up you have should give you a good general reading. Cheers

Really enjoyed the video. The tool you made reminds me of my Dad. He was a shade tree mechanic when he got off work. He would make his own tools if it took something he didn't have. Keep it up.

Great job we used to boost them and add a Propane injection for extremely tough pulls. I would recommend a one of those bearing buddies. It would put pressurized oil in the turbo at shut down or if you stall it when hot. The manifold and exhaust tend to glow red at night on those hard pulls. Really enjoy your content 👍

Another Excellent vid from the finest all around mechanic! Keep em coming Jesse!

You are a jack of all trades & master of many, Jesse! So amazing! Did you by chance go to mechanics school? You are so knowledgeable. You remind me of my dad many, many years ago. Of course, schooling wasn’t even heard of back then. I don’t really know how he learned. We love watching your channel. Thank you & God bless.

Man I love these videos I learn alot. Thanks Jesse.

Another nice fix JM, nice work

FUN PROJECT TO FOLLOW, IM INTRIGUED TO SEE WHAT YOU ARE GOING TO DO WITH THAT TRUCK. VERY LOW MILEAGE‼️👍👍. Vinny 🇺🇸

Have you changed that electric stepper motor yet. I had this chevy truck that wouldn't stay in 4 high. It needed a new stepper (encoder) motor. When the motor got warm the high resistance wouldn't hold the motor in gear. New encoder motor fixed it. I know it's not a transfer case but that setup reminds me of the way a transfer case works. Good luck, can't wait to see the track loader running!

The shift collar in the differential is worn, that is the main cause of the rear axle to jump out if gear like that.

Looking forward to your next video, Jesse...sorry that you could not fix the issue with the international, but hoping with some help and ideas from some gear heads here online that you can get it all taken care of at some point. Would be nice to keep it around, BUT if you choose not to, selling it would be a good idea, AFTER you get the reas end issue taken care of. always learning something from you, thank you for sharing.

Nice little neighborhood you've got there. Good luck w/the new truck.

Jesse, I don’t know anything mechanical or have any skills but I enjoy your videos and hope you keep making them. You have good analytical skills and you do interesting projects.

Congrats on the new truck Jesse Its Awesome

Man you're good jessie,did you go to school to be a mechanic. I can't get enough of your videos, you are my favorite utuber I must say!

Hi jesse really enjoying your videos keep up the great work . Hi from Ireland 🇮🇪

Really really good videos..I dont own or drive any trucks but I really like watching and learning..

That truck was right around the corner from me. Saw it on marketplace while looking for a similar truck. Good luck and keep up the great content!

Liked the Rigid brushless driver... Heard good things about them.. Milwaukee is the one to beat tho.. Great video.. 💯💯💯

ahoj from czech republic: magnetize the drill first and then the slow speed - the minimum of chips

Till the shop is up, your backside is the shop. I hated it too. The rear end.... the shift fork on the inside of the rear end and part that sticks out behind the shift motor sets in a brass bushing top and bottom on most but they do very a bit on just how they make the shift. Those bushings most likely the lower one on the inside is worn out and lets it climb out.... one of the two points will be bad worn and needs to be replaced. I haven't done one in over forty years so its hard to describe it well. Also in the rear end itself it has a shift collar that goes high/low... it looks like a sincro out of a transmission and works the same way to make it synchronized other wise like before all that and back in the forties it was straight cut and had to really have the rpms just right to make it work well. We used to take the electric or vacuum motor off and make a lever that would manually shift the gears which was fine as a kid cause it was one more lever. Personally those transmissions in either truck are a waste of money. A nine, ten or thirteen speed would be much more to the advantage point. I don't know if one rear end from the flatbed repair/parts truck will slip in but once inside of it by just taking the center section out, it will explain in black and white why the other is jumping out of gear.... what makes them wear like that is the bearings are too small for the job. Unless someone gives you plenty for the old truck, keep it till you know whats what with the new one. Parts and pieces should be everywhere for the older trucks laid up/retired. I personally if it were me go with a thirteen speed, and single speed rear end. Keep away from dayton wheels and stick with the budd rims like you have now.

he planetary gears are with a brass shafts or pins that's what wore and will not stay aligned when it in low gear. Drain the oil and have it tested and lock for brass particle. Hope this help

Not sure how precise the EGT reading has to be but your probe looks like it's sitting on the other side of the manifold. The tip should be center of the pipe. Love your videos thanks for great content.

Jesse - "I dod't have a lot of experience with a rear end..." - LOL!!!

Awesome Jesse looking forward on the next truck

When you are drilling the manifold, cold start the engine while drilling. The exhaust pressure will blow out the shaving from the drill bit. Pack the tap with geese.

Every time I watch one of his videos I get inspired to buy old things, tear them apart, and to make them right again or better! Now... to just do all of those things... :)

Wanted to mention something I noticed on your truck. might want to replace the busted air filter restriction indicator on your intake tube. I have heard of them letting dust in after filter which could be harmful to your engine. Great video love the content!

Jesse, great video! Impressed by the methodical and thoughtful process of elimination for getting to the issues. Well done! It makes me cringe and yell at the computer to watch Andrew change a starter on the Cat.

Excited for the new truck!

That international is clean , I didn't see any rust when you were underneath it. And Congratulations on the new whip👍, try to keep it as long as you can because after you get rid of it you'll see just how much you needed it, I say that from experience 🤦. But don't get me wrong, if you can get a good chunk of change from it then it might be best . Check the barter ads too sometimes you can come up with something else you need more than an extra truck. 👍

The 8.3 cummins is a good motor. I have one in my motorhome. And love it...Good luck on that rear. Sometimes they can be a Royal pain inthe ass getting them figured out when they start acting up

My favorite part was the drive. Thank you. Take it easy.

With 6,300 hrs, I suspect the Freightliner has a lot more than 55,000 miles on it. For stationary machines we always compared hours to mileage by figuring it at 40 mph which would be 252,000 miles. At 20 mph that would be 126,000 miles.

Jesse, my dad had a lot of dump trucks with the Eaton Two speed. A 1951 Ford F6 with a vacuum shift. A 1953 Ford F600 the first electric shift. A 1962 Dodge D600 electric shift. The Dodge did the grinding racheting noise problem but never went in between hi/lo like yours. If I can remember right the problem areas are too much play in the ring and pinion gear backlash. And you will have to get a motors truck manual and look at the workings of the 2 speed. Of course try to find a good truck mechanic with experience on these on line or in person. You did the right first steps with the electrics. Here"s a good vid to look at ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pOvy3SnKyJ0.html

When we used to get air leaks on the fuel system we used to gob grease over each of the pipe fittings over the course of a few days until we fixed the air leak. The grease will seal the fuel lines for long enough to locate the problem. This for the suction lines, obvs.

Get a NOS kit and supercharger, bigger jets and massive hood scoop 👌, I found a good tip for drilling and tapping manifolds, put small powerful neodymium magnets on the drill and tap to capture all swarf and debris

If you put grease in the valleys of the tap it will keep the shavings from falling down into the turbo.

Back in the day people would remove the anaroyd pipe remove the fitting on the pump,they would install a zerk fitting and pump grease to keep the rack at full travel and it worked LOL

As always, great production, thank you.

Also works if you start the engine and let it idle while drilling and tapping the egt hole in the exhaust manifold 👍.. blows the chips out immediately

I just found this channel. AWESOME. Subscribed.

Best of luck with the new truck

New truck looks badass

Some nice back to back videos in couple a days 👍👍

Hey Jesse..nice job and a tip is to put grease in the flutes of tap to capture the chips

Sounds like you have a major boost leak unless it’s just the way the camera picks it up

Thanks for showing how to work on the injection pump. I have the same truck (‘92 international 4700 with a DTA 360) grossly underpowered, but I will try this! It’s a synchronized 6 speed manual, so I’m no help on the two speed rear end..

Well, think I’ll give this video a look and try. So far so good .👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

I am really enjoying the channel Keep up the good work.

Great Video, you can everything repair👍👍👍🤗

I’ve got the 6CTA8.3 Cummins in my truck, love the engine, I just need to finish up some of the engine work I’ve been doin on it.

I love watching this videos 🔥

I have a international s1700, DT360. After sitting for more than a couple hours it won’t start without ether. I’m in the process of changing all the fuel lines thinking it’s getting air in the system and bleeding back. Once I get that figured out I’m definitely going to make the same adjustments you did with the fuel because it’s just a dog right now. Also having some issues with the rear end, heck I’m not even sure if it’s going into high or low, it seems like it’s really winding out at 55 so maybe it’s stuck in low. Thanks for the video, it’s nice to be able to relate to the stuff you’re working on.

I can't wait for your big dump truck video!

Jesse if you only had 8psi of boost you should pressure test your turbo piping and charge air cooler. Might be losing boost between turbo and intake manifold.

Another great video. Thanks Jessie

Maybe Andrew could come over and whack it with his 10lb mall, crank in some self tapping nut driver screws, a few sheetmetal scraps and some sawdust to tighten the gap at the ring and pinion.

Am I assuming correctly you lived a former life as a heavy equipment mechanic? Sure seems like you know a lot more than RU-vid has to offer! Great video; good luck with the new truck!

Old style 2 speed was a spring that was cocked and tripped for a more positive shift by popping the foot feed. There was no geared wheel that rotates. It was a screw shaft design.

Liking the magnet trick

Andrew fixing his D4, and Jessie working on the International! A double header! I wish you guys were my neighbors.

Love yur videos. U & Andrew are 2Kings of property maint. & equipment fix-up. But u, a master electrician & res/crmcl.builder add more interest. Now A. just got a tilt bucket..can u jump up & get a tilt/rotator/finger grab tool like Headblom? He is in Sweeden, so u will report soil/rock proportions for effectiveness in your/Andrew's area. Love yur/A's work & especially attitude toward work! Both of u reflect best of American values. Hats off & salute!

on the new box instead of putting bolts in use studs that way you never have to take seized bolts out of the aluminum

Because of all the mileage on the 4700, it may be that the shift fork on the planetary is bent or excessively worn, preventing it from staying in low gear. The GMC 6500 has the same rear, so pull the gear pumpkin out of it and put it in the 4700. Pull the axle shafts out of each wheel, then pull the pumpkin. It is fairly heavy, so you may want to use a hydraulic jack to pull it out and put it back in.

Sweet new truck dude

Love this little truck. Kinda want to say that before grinding started, shoulda opened up the rear end to find out why it was out of spec. That might open a whole nother snake nest though... might just end up being a 5 speed lol

Something kinda funny is. I think the Bose that is right below where he mounted the egt probe is actually for a egt probe lol. There is one on each side right where you would normally have them. It was prob to tight of a spot to drill with out taking the turbo back off. Not that it matters. It would just be less likely to crack since there is more material.

Dt360 is awesome! I want to put one in a pickup. Turbo sounds awesome. I can get 6 ton in my cab and chassis truck

Since you seemed to have gone through all the electrics and the shift mechanism, your problem is very likely inside the differential. Something either gummed up, bent, or out of spec. Could be simple or a full rebuild.

I enjoy your content very much.

Your shift collar is probably rounded out which will allow it to slip out, or your shift fork is worn out where it slip into the slot on the sift collar. All of which requires removal of the third member.

I would check the wires and the connections going into the switch on the shifter.