Thanks for sharing this very informative video Evan, much appreciated. I am just starting out on my journey with induction heating forging. This was very helpful.
This is truly awesome (not "awesome" like cool, but AWEsome as in stunning and gobsmacking!) -- Thanks! This is such a practical machine, and I am torn between this and a small ribbon burner forge to work on shorter pieces of steel. Just one unrelatred comment, since you seem to be a money saver, I saw your oxy-acetylene outfit there and would recommend you dump the acetylene (expensive, dangerous, and very inconvienient) and go to propane (yep, grill gas) which only requires a different low cost cutting head. I did and never looked back -- very happy.
Thank you for measuring the current and publishing it ! I had my doubts regarding the power rating of 15kW, because I have a 2KW version that heats up similar parts in 2-3 the time you showed. So I searched for a while to get usefull informations. Your measurement results in 30A * 220V = 6.6KW input power. Assuming an efficiency of ~80% , that means ~5kW at the coil. This is 2.5 times the power I do my tests with. So this is plausible. Power Ratings of Chinese products are quite strange. Even the input power calculated by the fuse rating (C63 on the breaker means 63A with C type-trigger characteristics) times the input voltage (220V) comes only close to 14kW. Not taking efficiency into account. To have 15kW at the coil, assuming ~80% efficiency, the device had to draw 85A at 220V from the line. Don't know the situation in the US, but drawing 85A from a single phase line is nearly impossible in a home and small business installation in Europe. On the other hand it's no problem to get it from a standard three phase 400V~ plug, what is actually very common to have here. But these devices are much more expensive. Thanks again !
Great video! I only just found it. I actually published a similar video on my own channel a few months before you, though I focus a lot more on the theory and less on the actual operation of the machine. I like your pancake coil with the standoff - I'll have to make one myself!
Evan, My induction forge is here and I thought I would get some materials for coils. When you give a tubing size, is that nominal size or actual OD for instance 1/4" tube is actually 3/8" OD. Which makes it seem pretty likely its the actual OD that matters. Also, is the flare 45 degree or 37 degree. Thanks again for the video.
Sorry I missed this John. Sounds like you got it up and running though. You should come to the November RMS demo - Scott and I will be talking about induction heating and demo making some coils etc.
It’s the magnetic hysteresis in the object to be heated that does the heating. It’s why electrical transformers have laminated cores, to reduce the hysteresis loss.
Of information you gave in one place and dispel some the rubbish advice too. I am just learning about forging but see induction as the way forward for me, hopefully.
Your videos are priceless to those of us trying to get up and running with Induction forging. Ive learned a lot in the ones you've uploaded and really appreciate the level of detail. Can you point me to where the files for the 3D printed forms you show in this one? Ive looked high and low and have only seen a few examples in the usual sites. Thank you again!
I have moved away from 3D printing forms because it isn't worth the time to make them unless you are in production mode making a lot of the same coil. I can send you the file for the small one I did if you want, but honestly I have found the pancake coil to be better at heating smaller stock / the ends of tapers. A good trick with bending forms made with softer materials like plastic or wood (or ones with channels for the tubing) is to make the middle removable, so you can collapse it and pull it out of the coil. I've learned that 'unscrewing' them can be quite the hassle. I've been meaning to make a follow-up video or two, I've learned a lot more since I made this. Also apologies to everyone with questions here I didn't reply to, I wasn't getting the notifications and have been pretty bad about checking back here.
Not so much with helical coils, but with one sided coils like the pancake coil you definitely can. If you short the coil it will often make a spark, but will not shock you.
Great video, thank you! I noticed you don't use the fiberglass insulation on your coils. Any reason? Are you just practiced enough and have steady enough hands to not touch the coils while heating?
I found those on Amazon a few years ago when I was building a different project. They are called Lab Jack Stands. Very useful for a variety of shop work.
Americans that I know do pronounce it correctly, but they don’t emphasize the “L”. If it’s in spelling, it’s always corrected by some spell checking person. All “techs” know what it means.
Hi check my channel, maybe i have a video of your problem. But first I would recommend to open the machine and look for anything burnt. Next maybe the diode is broken. You may have a clogged copper line, check if the water is coming from the coil. Next see if there is any crack at the solder weld inside the machine behind the thighening nut. Good luck
Hi check my channel, maybe i have a video of your problem. But first I would recommend to open the machine and look for anything burnt. Next maybe the diode is broken. You may have a clogged copper line, check if the water is coming from the coil. Next see if there is any crack at the solder weld inside the machine behind the thighening nut. Good luck
You can - if you have enough volume and pressure. A friend did this and would run the machine while watering the yard, plants etc. Doesn't seem like a good long term solution though, especially if you live out west or where water is precious.
@@evanblackstock4921Nice! Thanks for the reply and making this helpful video. My house is on a private well system and I have a water line in my garage. Putting together the cooling system seems like a lot more me. Running continous water through it seems so much easier.
