Thank you so much for video! I'm a civil engineer and am studying for a professional engineer license exam. In solving a construction-type question today I had a need to understand the physics of a concrete formwork tie system. After watching your video i finally understand how this works on the conceptual level. From here the math is easy. My main snag was with how the spacing worked and how it influenced the tensile force on each tie. Now this is 100% clear thanks to your clear presentation and no nonsense video recording. Thank you again!
Tak tukono Owen adalah memilih aku sdh on bulan yang sama seperti di atas oleh karena eh pintu masuk yang sama UU warnoir ttp yyy itu tdi kan Yo poor 3wwrhsarra oyrur uuu UU wY ready to tuh udh ada RT wow keren i yyy di atas tapi ruang sweet home no Enya ri itu iioyeoi
What he’s doing here is fine for a four foot high wall, although there are more efficient, simpler systems for that application. I think a few details were left out. First of all, when starting at an inside corner you must plumb both sheets side to side. On the outside corner one should run the walers at least 7” beyond the sheet in order to be able nail them together as well as nail a vertical 2x4 behind each row of walers. This is more critical on taller walls and as I said earlier, not absolutely necessary on this shorter wall, although scabbing a little 1 foot section of 2x4 at the corners is pretty bush-league. It isn’t necessary to offset the holes in order to lace the corners together. One can bend the waler enough to accomplish that which allows you to keep all of your panels drilled the same. This simplifies matters in the field. Going 16” on center with a tie pattern gives you a universal sheet that works in either direction, however it is only necessary to go that tight in the vertical direction, where 24” o.c. will work horizontally. Either way works although one requires 1/3 more the materials and therefore is more costly. It isn’t necessary to nail the walers at an inside corner, although some guys like to run a vertical 2x4 to but the walers into, but that isn’t absolutely necessary. With this system you generally want to strong- back it every six to eight feet, either with a long-tail tie and a flat shoe or with the various nail on brackets available. I’m not trying to be overly critical here, but I spent over 40 years forming concrete using multiple systems and have quite a bit of experience with snap-ties and Jahn shoes.
Great comment. What would be the simplest form for a short retaining wall only 2 feet high + a footing? There would be a wooden fence on top so we’d want to embed the metal brackets also.
Could you not put the snap ties on both short sides 40mm higher so that your inside and outside 2X4 overlap each other so you can nail them and secure the corners?
Generally not a good idea, because you reuse your plywood over and over and over- you want the drill pattern to be universal. You can run an extra 2x4 over or under the main waler to connect corners.
One minor problem that has been noted from the videos is the risk of gouging an eye out on the top level of crossmembers / bolts that go through the wall. Otherwise, it appears to be a fairly good system to use for the construction of a cement wall.
great video! do you need strongbacks with a 4’ high wall? saw another video and they used double whalers, bottom 3/4 plywood spacer bracket, snap ties, and just a few angled supports for a 8’x8” wall and it held up great. Im trying to keep cost down.
great video, never have done a foundation, this seems like a great way for a small poor. Way too expensive and labor for anything else. I'be been pricing out ICF and I thinkthat beats it for sure. 3/15/2021
Studs on one side should be 1.5" higher than the side 90deg to it so you can run wild and overlap (log cabin) and nail together to get stronger corners. You've scabbed a little 2x4 to accomplish this but that's much less strong. Corners are the weak point. Those snap ties probably have capacity of 2,250lbs. That corners probably only good for a couple hundred pounds.
Next time put on all the cow bells on tight them down sum wat so it won’t swing off then put in the 2x4 in a angle and boom u would be done 3x as fast buddy ... my boss would fire me if I took that long
@@DanSarahMakers your supposed to over lap the wailers one on top of the other. You could of also locked one or two cow bells to keep the wall in place. Nor did you plum the plywood before you set it. Slap a level on that bitch and i bet its not strait up leveled. Slap yourself. You failed. Fired
Each snap tie holds a certain amount of weight (obviously)… maybe this was meant to be a very tall wall therefore he needs to add more snap ties per sheet to hold the weight that will be added once the cement reached the top.
By saying a real carpenter, I assume you can not only build Jhan forms, but climbing forms for central cores, layout and cut stairs that pass code inspections, install cabinets,, residential and commercial door hardware, stain grade trim work and read plans?
@@DanSarahMakers Yha you definitely aren’t that. I can tell just by watching you. I’ve been doing this for near 20 years and I know bullshit when I see it.
Short answer, Yes. I haven't gotten a quote for rental rates for many years but if I remember correctly, they were going for around $.25 a week per bracket. I would search for concrete formwork suppliers in your area and just start calling and asking. A lot of these places will sell new, rent, and even sell the used ones at a discount. Currently a good price to purchase them is $4.00 each, (I just bought 400 of them last week for an upcoming project). There are shortages of the brackets right now as with a lot of items so good luck!
