Introduction to Pattern Grading

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Join me for an introduction to pattern grading. During this tutorial, I'm going to work with a shirt front pattern piece to show you how to grade it up one size using a 2" grade rule and my grading ruler. A grade rule is a set of designated amounts a pattern is made larger or smaller at specific points around the edge of the pattern. If you'd like to dive in deep... check out my Workbook - Grading for the Home Sewer + use coupon code "gradeup" for $5.00 off the PDF (see link below).
00:00 Introduction
02:45 The Grade Rule or Change between Sizes vary depending on pattern size and the portion of the pattern that you are grading.
05:00 Grade Rule vs. Cardinal Point (grade point) & Grading in the X and Y Directions
06:49 Instructions for Grading a Shirt Front using a 2" Grade Starts Here
15:35 How to Connect the Graded Points to create the new size
18:47 What's up next during this week's episode of Fab Fit Friday
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Опубликовано:

6 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 64

@kathydoyle4731 2 года назад

I really appreciate this video, Jen! It explains the 'visual confusion' when I look at patterns. I love your teaching style and motivates me to learn more. Thanks so much!

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

Thanks so much!

@sarag1158 Год назад

I bought the ruler. This class was incredibly helpful, especially that explanation for the 2" increase. I always thought the other RU-vid videos that show the slash and spread method throughout to be overly vague. I feel like a "professional."

@JSternDesigns Год назад

I'm so happy to hear! Thanks for grading along with me

@notprincessanna4806 2 года назад

First time watcher/ subscriber, just bought your book. I thought you should know, you give one heck of an impression. You did the best pattern grading intro I’ve seen. Thank you.

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

Thanks so much... & welcome... Thanks for watching!

@user-fj3hb5ps4v Год назад

Thank you Jen, I do understand pattern grading for the 1rst time, your teaching style is very good to understand

@JSternDesigns Год назад

I'm so happy to hear that!! Thanks for watching

@sofiaguthre5948 Год назад

Thank you so much! This way of grading a pattern really helped me visually compared to others. You explained it wonderfully! Now I understand thank you!

@JSternDesigns Год назад

You're very welcome! So happy this helps you & thanks for following along with me

@cloudninetherapeutics7787 2 года назад

Another great class, thanks so much for this and the very useful pdf !

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

Thank you!

@khulood.0 8 месяцев назад

I'm new to pattern grading and this is really good intro. Thank you so much 🤍

@JSternDesigns 8 месяцев назад

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching

@mimistewart9315 2 года назад

Thank you for the tutorial. I am so confused by this but would love to learn more. Could you say if your book also gives examples how to grade darts in the shirt , pants, and skirt ? I also would love to learn how to decrease sizes. Does the book cover that as well ?

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

Yes, the workbook covers grading up and down, bust darts, front/back bodice, sleeves ...and I have grade rule charts for pants and skirts. :)

@missd.2217 2 года назад

Hi J, i got your book on pattern grading. Thank you for making a book tutorial (it's really hard to figure out the ruler without one). Anyway, how do you determine where the pin point for the crotch curve is? Thanks, M

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

Hi Miss D. Are you referring to the point where you would adjust the crotch curve? Let me know ... and I super apologize for the delayed response... I'll keep my eye out for you!

@ellebevs4388 2 года назад

Hi, I just found your Channel and this video is amazing. Been looking for a tutorial like this forever. I have a question is your workbook also cover increment for dresses?

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

Hi Elle, I didn't do a dress in this workbook, but you can follow the steps for a top and a skirt to do a dress :)

@gcolon58 2 года назад

Thank you for your video. What if your body measurements fall within 3 pattern sizes? Does your book have instructions for grading the patterns. Many thanks!

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

You can grade up 3 sizes by multiplying the grade amount for one size by 3. Or you can grade up one size, grade the graded size up another size... then grade up again. It would work out the same. :) Thanks for watching

@tayliemattson84 Год назад

This was very helpful, thank you! I am a little confused about one thing through. The shoulder seam does not get any bigger when you go up sizes?

@JSternDesigns Год назад

In this example the shoulder seam stays the same length... If you need to make it longer, change the X axis move from - to +. (There's a very small range of shoulder lengths... they don't grow longer as sizes get bigger for everyone. You could have a person that is a size 20 with a shorter shoulder length than someone else that is a size 14. So, I usually leave the shoulder length and adjust to fit the person.) Thanks for watching

@barbaramatthews4735 6 месяцев назад

I get it with a simple pattern. My question is how does that affect sleeves and collars. I havecan old shirt that I copped into a pattern. It doesn't fit well around the bust. I need to make my copy a size larger. If I make the front and back larger, I will need to makecthe sleeves larger as well and possibly the collar if the neckline gets larger. I really dont need to make too many adjustments but it does have to be adjusted. This is my first attempt at making my own pattern. I have plenty of experience working with premade patterns from the major pattern companies. I'm confident in my sewing skills when it comescto assemble the pattern. I'm just not as experienced at grading and alterations. Thank you. BTW I just bought your guide from the link.

@JSternDesigns 6 месяцев назад

Yay, There are instructions for how to grade the sleeve to match the new sized armhole + How to adjust the collar and stand! Keep me posted if you have questions Thanks for grading along with me

@bevwannamaker1119 2 года назад

Hi I have watched several of your videos and been very impressed by your very clear explanations. However I have a question about fitting that I have not seen answered. I have a jacket pattern from the 1890's that is for a 38 bust. My full bust is 43 and high bust is 37. Do I increase pattern size first, then do full bust adjustment? There is no other size available for this pattern and I am totally stuck. Thanks

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

The first step is to measure across the high bust of the pattern to make sure it agrees with your high bust. Then measure across the pattern approximately 2" below the armhole to see how much room there is in the full bust... Compare that to your measurement. (You may also want to check to make sure the full bust area agrees with your full bust level. Measure from the shoulder down to your apex and compare to pattern) ... Then increase the full bust measurement with a FBA and letting out the side seams. If this jacket has lapels or an open front, it will be more forgiving than one that zips up to the neck. Hope this helps!

@kennysumi5906 Год назад

Good information.Could you suggest the book that you are refering to?

@JSternDesigns Год назад

There is a link to the workbook in the video description :)

@missd.2217 2 года назад

One more question, what are the rules for decreasing a pant size? Do i just swap the increase number i.e. to increase the CF it is x = +1/4 so then to decrease would x= -1/4? And carry on like that for all the points?

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

Yes! You can grade down using the same method as grading up! There are grade rules in my Grading Workbook if you need more help with how much to adjust each part of the pants pattern.... ps. so sorry for the delayed response! thank you for sewing along with me

@carycastellanos9103 5 месяцев назад

I have a vintage pattern in a size 16. I want to grade up quite a bit. I think the differences between bust waist and hip are 8, 14 and 9 respectively. I assume I would need to grade up several times using the 2” or 3” measurements in your book (which I have). Would that be correct? My other question is in regard to the sleeve. The sleeve is part of the bodice. How would I account for the sleeve? Thank you for your videos. I love watching them.

@JSternDesigns 5 месяцев назад

Yes, grade up a few times to get to the desired size. You can use different grade rules for each. For example, use a 2" grade for the bust (that's 4 sizes up) Then divide 14 by 4 ... Use a 3 1/2" grade and and 2 1/4" grade for the waist. (To get the "grade" you divide the total grade rule by the number of edges you need to grade... For tops that's usually 4 edges (4 side seam edges). You can use the corresponding grade rules for 2" or 3" to grade the neckline and shoulders... then fine-tune from there. If the sleeve is attached to the bodice there is some grading that needs to happen where the armhole/sleeve cap seam would be if they were separated. In this case, I would most likely cut the two pieces apart to create an armhole/cap edge. Then you can grade them individually and reattach them when you've graded to the size you need. You'll have to play with smoothing the two curves to align them perfectly.. Then make a half muslin to test the fit. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching

@carycastellanos9103 5 месяцев назад

Thank you very much for your direction. It is greatly appreciated.

@thesehandsbytiffinyjulian1136 Год назад

Hi!! Does your book have grading rules for plus size and/or alpha sizing?

@JSternDesigns Год назад

Yes, I included a 3” grade that you can use to grade plus sizes ;)

@staceyneufeld3993 2 года назад

I just bought your grading package! I need to size a vintage pattern from a 36” bust to a 45 1/2” bust. Would I do this one size at a time? Or can I do it all at once?

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

I think I would make a few incremental changes. Instead of grading up by size, grade up by an inch. If you increase 1" to front and back bodice, that will add 4". Then true up the pieces and grade up again to add the amount you need to fit your bust. Good Luck!!

@staceyneufeld3993 2 года назад

Thankyou so much!

@marichellramirez-velasquez6874 2 года назад

Hi, New Subscriber here. I randomly found your videos and am so excited to have found you. This video is Awesome. Thank you for your Workbook, got mine. “) I haven’t printed yet but I do have a question about grading other parts, specifically Flounces on sleeves. Is the grading similar to what you’ve shown here?

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

Welcome to my channel! & thank you for getting a copy of the grading workbook. How to Grade details like a flounce on a sleeve is an excellent question… I’m putting that on my short list of upcoming videos. Thanks for watching!

@isherwood4 2 месяца назад

Just a quick question. I always need to add length and FBA. Do I do this after the grading on the new pattern?

@JSternDesigns 2 месяца назад

If you're grading the pattern up a size all the way around... you can do the FBA after you grade and move the bust dart to the proper position. Then make a half muslin to check it! Thanks for watching

@kelliangroves9413 Год назад

Sounds interesting ! Would these figures and techniques work for grading childrens clothing - sizes 2-14?

@JSternDesigns Год назад

You can use this technique to grade children's clothes. If you order the workbook, I will have to look up children's standard grade rules and I'll send them to you. (I've never graded children's clothes, so I need to look it up!)

@kelliangroves9413 Год назад

@@JSternDesigns ooh. I was hoping the same rules apply. OK. I will let you know . Thanks.

@karaeisenmann9520 Год назад

Does the grade rules also apply to garments that have negative ease (like athletic wear)? Or do they have their own grade rules? Does the PDF go over negative ease patterns?

@JSternDesigns Год назад

That's a great question! I don't specifically talk about garments with negative ease, but the grade rules can be applied to these patterns too. The increase or decrease between sizes is the same because it's not the actual fit or fabric that you are grading for. You're still grading the pattern pieces for the same changes in the body as you would for a non-stretch pattern. Having said that, the actual amount of stretch your fabric has will affect the fit of your garment. I like to test a 10" section of the stretch fabric I'm working on.... If it stretches 2" past 10", it has 20% stretch. I use this math to check the fit. For example, if the full bust on a top measures 36" and my bust is 40" & I'm working with knit that stretches 2" for every 10", I know the fabric across the bust will stretch 8"... So I have plenty of room and some ease since by bust is only 4" larger than the pattern. I can make changes based on this. If you're looking for instructions to adjust a non-stretch pattern for stretch fabric, I have a workbook for that too! jsterndesigns.com/product/adjust-non-stretch-pattern-stretch-fabric-pdf/ Hope this helps, thanks for watching

@karaeisenmann9520 Год назад

@@JSternDesigns Okay that makes sense!! I appreciate your response, and ill check out the workbook too!! Thanks!

@kennysumi5906 Год назад

Would be really helpful if you can mention the grade measurement that you are grading,is it the 2" grade or 1 1/2" grade and also how you are distributing the measurements.

@JSternDesigns Год назад

I was using a 2" grade. For this simple top with side seams, all the grading is accomplished at the side seam distributing 1/4 or 1/2" of 2" to the side seam edges. The neckline/shoulder/armhole are graded a smaller amount because the amount people get bigger or smaller between sizes is much less (than through the bust/chest, waist and hips). Hope this helps! Thanks for watching

@kennysumi5906 Год назад

@@JSternDesigns Thanks a lot.Can you please clarify my doubt about an 1 1/1/2" and 2" grade for a basic skirt,thats if we determine only from the waist difference? 28-29 1/2 (thats 1 and half " difference".Can we take only the waist difference and grade the whole pattern for basic skirt.?

@JudyMyers-gg1vb 2 месяца назад

Where can get the book?

@JSternDesigns 2 месяца назад

Thanks for watching!! Here is a link to the pattern grading of the home sewer jsterndesigns.com/product/pattern-grading-home-sewer-pdf/

@karenmitchell7101 Год назад

would the book work for grading a vintage mens pattern?

@JSternDesigns Год назад

That sounds like an exciting project!!! You can use the the "Grade Rules" in the workbook with any pattern. There are grade rules for a variety of differences between sizes so you can grade the pattern pieces up or down 1 1/2" - 3" between sizes.

@karenmitchell7101 Год назад

@@JSternDesigns Thank you started reading through the book last night and there's some great information!

@marynaylor1741 Год назад

How to grade the waistline only

@JSternDesigns Год назад

You can grade the side seam and center front/back edges only to make room along the waistline. Then you'll need to make a like adjustment to the waistband so it fits!