the only question I could think to ask was about my rear wheel on the last video xD I got nothing else besides that I am planning to stop riding it for security reasons and switching to a refurbished singlespeed road bike I can collect from my local bike charity in the coming days, providing they still have it.
What do you guys think of the ribble air 883 disc I have the standard with the standard parts what parts would you guys upgrade first?? Love the show stay safe people
#AskGCNTech I have the Canyon Lux CF SL 7.0 and would like to equip it with a dropbar. Of course I need a corresponding brake lever for this. Preinstalled is the Shimano Deore gear group M8100 with 12 gears. Can I use GRX brake levers for shifting and braking. (Even if I lose a gear in the process?) I'm not sure if the shift cable is pulled properly so that the gears shift correctly. Because of combining MTB and Road-Components. Or are there other options? Many thanks in advance and greetings from Wuppertal Tobi
#askGCNtech #TorqueBack dear GCN, what is your thought on combining dry + wet lube? I saw some comments about applying wet lube first and 'lock' it with dry lube afterwards.
#askGCNtech do you think that internal transmissions like the Shimano Alfine (di2) will find it’s way into roadbikes. From my understanding it can be quite an advantage. Especially maybe with a belt system...
Based on personal experience, the KMC Gold chain especially the light version is incredible good!! As light as a Dura Ace chain and certainly better looking if you are into the Gold color thing. As far as the coating getting off... 🤔 I've never seen that, not in my chains or any other. Try a KMC chain and you won't be disappointed.
The gold coating, Titanium Nitrite is usually applied by a process called Physical Vapor Deposition. its not anodizing, anodizing is only be done on Aluminium and a little titanium. PVD is really versatile as a coating process it is also used to put diamond like carbon (DLC) coatings on lenses and all sorts of applications in aerospace and those gold plated drill bits in ALDi.
but Ollie, Shimano Di2 does have an external setup! It just needs the external battery (SM-BTR1), mount (SM-BMR1), and external junction box (SM-JC40). I've been using that setup for years. I did get a long piece of electrical tape to keep some of the wires on, but they even make stupidly expensive "di2 cable tape" for those wanting to keep the aesthetics inline.
Titanium Nitride is the gold coating, not the silver coating underneath. It's not anodized. I think it's applied by vapor in a vacuum chamber. It's used on machine tools to theoretically give better surface hardness and low friction, but I think on a bike chain it won't carry the types of loads where it would have any significant effect. The only real reason to buy one is because they look cool.
Good to see the programmes happening, It is obvious that all the teams are talking at more of a personal level working from home and not “just presenting”.. good to see as it makes it feel more from the heart, the love of bikes and cycling.. 👌
I have a hollowed link gold chain waiting to put on when current one loses tension. In the mean time I will mostly be riding with a gold chain around my kneck shouting "I AIN'T GETTING ON NO PLANE FOOL! “
They(KMCGold) are faster than regular chains and last longer I have used them for 7 years! The KMS DLC is few grams lighter it shifts much quicker and when waxed is quieter than gold chain, I also think it last longer! Wax with dry silicone works great on the KMC chains great job Ollie!
To Thom Campion, in 12:00 of the clip, I personally have a 2011 Merida road race 880 aluminium bike upgraded to Shimano 6870 Di2 in 2016. Shimano does launched a kit for older designed bike frame. I run the system using external routing and external battery kit without drilling any hole in the frame. For the cable, you may find external cable guide/cover from Shimano which will give some protection and organised them better. I just use the almighty zip tie to hold the cable tight fit on the down tube,seat tube, chainstay and original mechanical cable guide on the frame. Everything is alright till now, never fail or broken anything. I have been riding even in stormy rain. One thing that may bother a little is that you may have to sacrifice one bottle cage to hold the external battery in the triangular dead space just above bottom bracket and seat tube. This is my case for an XXS frame. Totally agreed with Dr. Bridgewood recommendation of using Sram 11 spd etap wireless system. No worry in wiring eg. determining length of cable, organising and using zip tie etc. However, it may be less likely to find an upgrade kit in good bargain than before since Sram has phased them out and not selling a whole group any more. Sram still sell individual parts to cater existing users but not a whole groupset / upgrade kit. What you may still find in store or online store usually are from old stock, and most likely is in out of stock status, eg. Mxrlin cycle. I like the neat setup of Sram etap but I love more on the vast array of aftermarket components and the cross compatibility offered in Shimano system eg. cheaper single sided crank based power meter, cheaper subcompact chainring / oval ring etc. Anyhow, you will never regret upgrading to electronic shifting. They are just simply superb. Precise shifting, less maintenance, ride more. Hope that may help.
LOL at the "recovery score" competition... ... but as someone that didn't realize how bad I slept and how much a few beers impacted sleep, I can see where you're coming from with this. Seeing the data and learning what it takes to get the recovery you really didn't get before, this product is a game changer. I'd go as far to say that this is a bigger game changer than a power meter. I didn't realize how easy it is to lose weight until I got this. Get a Recovery score of 75% or higher regularly and I drop pounds almost as fast as Pogacar would drop me up the hills.
Hey sorry to rain on your parade there Ollie but it is possible to run Shimano Di2 externally and Shimano even produce all of the appropriate parts to allow you to do so. You can run external cabling as well as having your junction box mounted below the bottom bracket (in the same position you would have your cable guide under the bottom bracket) then to secure the cables to the frame there is a housing which Shimano produces which has an adhesive side to it which will stick to the frame and will stop the cables flapping around and getting caught on anything. It is also possible to mount and use the older style external battery with Di2. All of this is compatible with the most modern version of the E-Tube software and if you install the little wireless unit then you can make the most of your system. Pick up an older Dura Ace 9070 series groupset or either R8050 or R9050 and all of those are compatible. The info on how to set up the system can be found here: si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-R8050-04-ENG.pdf si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-DA0001-10-ENG.pdf and the really helpful compatibility chart for E-Tube can be found here: e-tubeproject.shimano.com/pdf/en/HM-CC.3.4.3-00-EN.pdf Really hope that this will give a bit more info... took me a long time to go through the details on the Shimano website but its good to know it can be done and hopefully without too much work.... perhaps a GCN Tech video there... how to wire up a new Shimano Di2 groupset on an older externally routed frame!
10 spd di2 was designed to be run externally. There is a battery mount that goes on the down tube bottle cage screws as well as cable guides that stick to the frame to make sure the wires stay in place
They look great but they have to suit the bike. Aero bike, but not stealth black or bright neon colours. I also have a little OCD about matching kit and would have to have a cassette and chainset gold anodised to match. My fixie has red details and finishing kit so it has a red KMC chain.
Back in the 1970s there existed the (now mythical) Regina (Italy) Extra gold chain. It cost US$14! For a bloody chain! An ordinary chain cost US$4. But of course one HAD to have the Regina gold chain because - hey GOLD, right? We're all suckers for the bling.
The problem with the one that I bought I noticed When removing the extra links that they coated it after assembly. To slow the rate of wear you have to have the coating on one of the two surfaces in a mechanical interface. There was no coating on either surface. What it is is nothing but a fashion statement. All they would have had to do is coat the little rings before assembly and it would function. The chain otherwise is a very advanced design. Anodizing is for aluminum. This gold stuff is titanium nitride.
In response to the DI2 question. You can run the DI2 cables externally. Shimano do the SM-EWC2 which is self adhesive plastic cover which protects the cables.
Most (all?) of the KMC Gold chains are Titanium Nitride-coated, NOT anodized, and may confer an advantage in corrosion resistance. TiN-coating has been shown to reduce friction and wear (and I proved it at work too) with drill bits and other machine tooling, but I don't see any definitive studies for cycling. Someone else noted that the rollers in the chains are not coated, so that could play a factor.
#AskGCNTech Ollie, I've recently got into cycling and want to start to upgrade my bike. Would it be better to slowly buy parts to upgrade my bike over time (Spread the cost) or would it be better to buy a whole new bike? and if i can just upgrade over time what are the main things to watch out for what mix and matching parts??
You can spend enough money on just the groupset as you would on a whole new bike with the same groupset. The only money you're gonna save at best will not be worth it compared to a new bike, new wheels better frame etc....
#GCN #GCNTech Ollie, nothing wrong with being "cool kids club" for taking care of yourself. I may give Whoop a shot in an effort to track migraines. See if there is a correlation between my rhythm/habits and migraine free days. Maybe I'll be good enough at recovery to join the club!!!
@@ytyehyeh the silver coating is nickel plating. And the extra material removed in the links are not for weight, it is to shed mud for mountain bikes and cyclocross bikes (kmc chains)
TiNitride coating (gold coloured) is used to reduce friction. So should run better. It's also used on inserts for cnc machining tools for instance. Or on the better upside-down forks on motorcycles.
I believe a Shimano Sora 3550 is a compact double, with a 110mm bolt circle diameter (BCD). The 105 FC-5703 is a triple, with 130mm/74mm BCD (outer/inner). Ollie's advice regarding number of bolts and BCD is spot on but, in this case, will lead to the conclusion that the 5703 big chainring won't work. The other thing to be aware of is that some chainrings have proprietary contouring to fit the crank arms - that Sora crank just needs a simple, traditional flat chainring.
Hi Ollie, great show as usual. Re Latex tubes, nice picture of a Michelin tube when recommending Vittoria 😄. In my experience Vittoria are slightly lighter but a lot more fragile than Michelin. Also fit with some talcum powder in the cover as that will help prevent stiction between the tube and cover rubber, then less likely to fail.
Hey Ollie,Ken here . Maybe do a show about disc brakes , like which is better "floating "rotor or say stock Sram or Shimano fixed rotors? Center lock or 6 bolt I wouldn't think either mounting would matter . I have Hope "floating" rotors(6 bolt) on one bike and my new Tarmac Pro has Sram force rotors ie fixed . Personally I think the Hope rotors are way better looking like a motorcycle brake rotor .
The manual from Shimano has instructions for external di2 installation. There is an external di2 battery too. Still not as nice as internal since the cables aren't under tension holding them straight but it is designed for it
A couple of notes on the video. With front chainrings you must match the manufacturer if you are changing just one. The shift ramps will be different. Madison no longer distributes Ridley, it's now direct from the factory.
I have a Fuji SL that I built up as a climber. I'd never thought about putting a gold chain on it, but I should. Not for the grams saved, but because the frame is raw black carbon with gold decals and I've done it up with all black kit. The gold chain would look AMAZING on it. Then, when I finally commit and cut the steerer tube, I can send it in to the vault...
Hi Ollie; at the risk of offending Manon and the late, great, Jon Cannings: A coating that increases friction, even minimally, only for the sake of vanity? ..."I pity the fools". #AskGCNTech: Concerning Tubes: I've a nice-day bike and a grey-day bike, both with butyl tubes, and I check my tire pressure before each ride... I typically need several psi after just a few days, losing ~2psi after just two days (~10 after a week): Is this excessive, and what could be the cause(s)? Also: Wax your chain! (OZ Cycles' PTFE recipe.)
Sounds normal. You lose lots of tire pressure when road tires are pumped up to ~100 PSI. With even a quicker loss with latex tubes. Up to 7 PSI per day loss with latex. Losing ~2 PSI per day or two with butyl, that's normal. In my experiences. Source: a self-taught bike mechanic for more than 30 years.
Two questions: 1, can I replace my 6 bolt disc rotors, with centrelock rotors? I'd like to change my current rotors with ice tech freezer ones. 160mm. 2nd, What bike is that on your wall? Orbea ? And is that the model which looks like a Colnago concept?
#askGCNtech It's late Autumn here in Sydney, Australia and whilst the winter is much milder here than in the UK, it's time to think about winter cycling kit. What are your thoughts on the benefits and weaknesses of leg/arm warmers versus long sleeve jerseys/long bib tights? Thanks for continuing to produce quality content in these challenging times, it's much appreciated.
I think according to the latest testing (Zero Friction Cycling & Friction Facts) dry lube are not particularly great compared to nearly any wet lube. The only dry lube considering are probably wax lubricant, with exception of the wendell branded ones which seems to be absolutely useless as it is applied outside the chain.
As for a loose fork. If the previous owner changed the stem it could require an extra spacer. I had the same problem with a loose fork recently after I changed my stem and putting another small spacer on solved the issue.
The gold on gold chain is titanium nitride, the same coating you see on some drill bits and other tools. It's a hard ceramic material, so theoretically it should improve the longevity of the chain. That said, I've read some chain wear test articles where KMC chains have done rather poorly.
The headset bearing reminds me of issue I got with carbon forks, yes I torque the headset but it still slides so I am tempted to glue the compression fitting inside them just use top cap on top
For the second question, regarding Sora 3550 replaced by 105 5703 chainrings. For this instance, yes, both five bolt 110BCD . But beware, Shimano have been dicks for the latest lineup of four bolt PCD110 chainrings by changing the notches on the both the chainrings and the crankarm spider on DA 9100, Ultegra 8000, 105 7000 is incompatible with old Shimano 110 four bolt for no good reason. And then GRX notches are also incompatible with any other Shimano four bolt anything, again for no good reason.
Hi Olly, good video, but I think that the gold chains are PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) or CVD (Chemical Vapour Deposition) coated with Titanium Nitride which has a natural gold colour. The same coating is used on some cutting tools and high wear components in engineering (piston heads etc.) and has been around for several decades. TiN has a higher hardness than steel and produces a lower friction surface if applied correctly, so in theory should make a chain last longer and run quicker - however I believe KMC coat the entire chain once constructed, rather than the individual links so any benefit is lost! 🙈 There have been some studies done investigating this, comparing chains for life and speed - Shimano v Wipperman v KMC. They defo look the bomb 💣 though! 😎 (I use them myself for this reason) Keep up the good work!
Hm...some b-roll selection failure here? When talking about internal cam skewers, the b-roll shows an external cam skewer. When recommending Vittoria latex tubes (which are pink), the b-roll shows Michelin latex tubes (green).
I was supposed to be doing the Fred Whitton for the first time this year until it was cancelled. I live in the lakes so know how hard it will be but can you give any advice to completing it??
23yr old Computrainer Pro I manually dial watts into via an analog head unit. Still working solid and EMP proof for sky net gets tired of us mortals playing our silly games.
First off, I'm really appreciating how Ollie's becoming as slightly unhinged as the rest of us stuck at home. My question is: Are there special tire (or other equipment) considerations that should be taken by particularly lightweight riders? Do the advantages of wider tires still apply when there's less force pulling them down? Should I pump my tires with less air? Anything else to keep in mind? #askGCNtech
@askgcntech hi Ollie massive fan of the channel but I have a couple of questions 1. How do you remove stuck pedals off an old bike 2: on my gravel bike the shifting is going through the gears but getting stuck in 2nd and shifts twice into 8th what should I do
Hi Luke, stuck pedals can be a real nightmare! You can try using a breaker bar over a long spanner/hex key depending on the pedal type, but be really careful not to round anything off, if that doesn't work then applying a little heat can help, if they're truly seized through it's a real mission! In answer to your second question, it's likely that your cables need replacing if the gears are sticking and then jumping, just replacing the inner cable may work, but you'll be better off replacing inner and outer cables
You are wrong about the gold chains. There is no anodizing, they are not aluminum. The titanium nitride coating is the gold part, not the underneath silver. Titanium nitride is actually classed as a ceramic coating if I'm not mistaken. Underneath they are nickle plated like the rest of the silver ones.
I like to cut a latex inner tube and run it down my leg whilst attaching the other end to the old plonker , nature breaks have never been easier unless of course you get a kink half way down your leg.
@Ollie you know Yorkshire Tea actually comes from India, Sri Lanka, and Kemya, right? I prefer straight up Assam myself, which if its available I'll of course get the Taylor's brand but Texas is a little far from Harrogate so its not always easy to find!
#AskGCNTech Hello form quarantined Serbia! Great show as always, lots of neat nerdy stuff for us techy guys and gals. I've recently replaced my chain with a brand new one and followed the advice to leave the factory lube on. This is the first time I'm dealing with a factory lube and have no clue on when to finally remove it and re-lube the chain? Thanx in advance!
The current 11 speed chain ringsi thought weren't compatible with the previous generation of 11 speed rings. Notice how one on the current has a curved corner on one and the older has a right angle on all four
@GCN Tech... The gold color coating is Titanium nitride which is is an extremely hard ceramic material about (0.00020 in thick) used to harden and protect sliding surfaces, which is why it is used on suspension forks, shocks, and chains. See this review by MarathonMTB for the full run down. marathonmtb.com/2015/05/27/reviewed-kmc-x10sl-ti-nitride-chain/
Re: latex tubes - I like using really thin butyl tubes instead, the 50g Continental Supersonic ones. I think you can get most of the rolling resistance benefits of latex from them and they don't deflate overnight!
@@OllieBridgewood They're very, very sensitive to mounting, being really thin as well as less "slippery" than latex.. So even just a whisker of entrapment under the bead can cause problems. And they'll pinch flat at the slightest excuse. Still, I've been using them for years and years and have come to an accommodation with them. ;-) True that rolling resistance isn't quite as good, but it's pretty good!
