Your totally right. I should have spent more time on context in some of my axe videos. I think I need to shoot 3-4 more vids just to clear up questions form the first 3-4 LOL. As for context , I have split 5-6 cord of wood every year since 2001. When I spent my winters in Alaska is was all spruce, the last 4 winters I have been in Michigan and its all hardwood. Beach and maple mostly. When I go in the bush, whether its Canada, northern MI., or Alaska. I usually take a bowsaw for bucking, and a axe (like the one in this vid) for splitting. But if I had to fell a tree I like an larger axe that can also split the big stuff. Thats the frame of mind i'm coming from. I should have realized a lot of people interested in axes are more "bush craft" oriented and prefer a smaller axe. Its nice to hear someone with some experience and logical insight comment. I have got some flack for my opinions on axes , and I should have spent more time explaining the circumstances around those opinions. Thanks for the sub , and the comments. Good stuff.
I find it very easy to get trapped in my own context and assume a lot about everyone else's when being opinionated about axes or anything, which I generally am, ha ha. I've also noticed that it's easier to split axe cut wood on the ground. At first I didn't trust that observation, but I now think it's because it is easier to start the split in a wedge shaped end and I think that getting the split to start is half the battle in splitting. No matter what context, I rarely split on a stump, so the safety issue is less relevant. It's easy for me to be righteous about cutting wood with an axe and splitting it with a boy's axe etc, but I live in California and it's a bad year when I burn more than a cord (or even a cord) in a drafty structure. Not that I keep it warm all the time, but still. Sticking with light axes though, I've been pretty amazed at what I can do and I think they have been used historically for serious work. I'd agree with Adam West that the functionality does not diminish linearly with decreasing weight. Where the sweet spot is for anyone I guess is just too personal and context dependent.
It's nice to here you come at it with a pragmatic, practical outlook. I think Adam and I are just from 2 different worlds when it comes to axe use. We have our wires crossed but I doubt we see things too differently. Your spot on when it comes to context. I should spend more time on my specific uses and not assume people will automatically see the info from my point of view. I know this channel reaches the bushcraft crowd, and I should make an better effort to paint the backdrop, so to speak. Thanks for the comment. I like your outlook. P.s. I also split wood on the ground a lot. I like a 36"-40" handle with a 4 lb head and just go at it. This is chainsaw cut wood 90% of the time. White Spruce gets split on a block as its so full of knots sometimes you need to use a wedge!
That all we used for splitting when I was gr o wing up and if you needed to buck a tree I would rather have a double bit one side extra sharp one not sharp.
I love the axe, I like the double bit. When I was 14 years old I worked for the State of Washington. Thinning tree's and cleaning fire trails. I can't tell you how many trees I've fallen trees . But I've got both styles. They have their jobs to do. I really enjoyed trying to teach my grandson how to use a axe. He's learning. But it takes time. Hell I'm almost 70 years old and I'm still using a double bit axe. It's good therpy. The Axe does the work. It's the same way with a shovel. I enjoy using a shovel 😁. I look back on my child hood. My first tool that I used was a double bit axe. I'm thinking I was about 9 or ten years old. What can I say I love a axe. My first chain saw I was 13 I'd cut firewood and sell to make money. It was a homelite. Today it would make a great boat anchor. Lol 😂. Hey have a beautiful day I am.
I keep a old sager chemical double bit i have with a traditional thick bit on one side for ground work and splitting & i keep the other bit pretty thin for felling and precision work. but on my go to daily use axe its a plumb cruiser with one bit with a 22.5° bevel and its the general use blade that is used for any task and the other bit is 20° or less and i keep razor sharp and honed with a Arkansas stone and barely use that side unless I need to. I too thought cruiser axes were too light and didn't have enough weight but I'd rather have a lighter axe i can swing all day than a heavy one that wears me out in 15 minutes or less. heavy axes will give you a workout thats for sure. God bless.
There is a perfect axe true toe per makes it called the Kelly perfect they got sized from 2lb to 5lb they are freakin good they chop like race axes snd split really good
When you work with one axe you need it sharp you just have to split wood on one knee that way it has to go into the ground if missed or bouncing occurs
First off, it's refreshing to see someone with opinions apparent based mostly on experience. Subbed Context and goals are everything. I split solely with whatever axe I'm felling with, but that is in the context of working in the woods with a single tool. No way am I going to haul a different axe out into the woods just for splitting when I can do it with the felling axe with a few extra blows. Having put myself in that position a lot now, I've improved my splitting skills greatly, and hope to improve them a lot more. Yes, it's not ideal, but it's more ideal to be able to do that than to carry an extra tool. The Vido's (axe connected on youtube) are fans of splitting with sharp axes, but their technique is very safe since it's at ground level, never follow through and they have cultivated a lot of experience in their subsistence lifestlye. I split with short handles (25 to 30 inches) safely, but it's a matter of technique and I eschew chopping blocks almost completely. If you always chop out of what Dudley Cook called the frontal zone, handle length and safety are not much of an issue. I split axe cut wood mostly on the ground, lying horizontal and hit from the end. As far as small axe v.s. full sized. A boy's axe can do everything and can be swung all day long. I think there is an over emphasis on felling, which is just not that hard. If it's hard to fell 12 inch and down trees with a boy's axe, then the axe or the axeman or the attitude needs work. Granted, I'd rather most of them were 2-1/2 lb or possibly even upward of that, but they are not toys or in the least ineffectual for general work. A full sized head may get your there quicker, but there is no free lunch, and there may be other considerations. My interest tends to be inclined toward being able to do as much as possible with a given axe, which has as much or more to do with the cultivation of skill and experience as much as with the axe. I'm still feeling out the full capabilities of a boy's axe, but having done a heck of a lot with them, I have full confidence that a 2.5lb axe on a 28 inch handle (also known as a pulpwood axe by Mason who claims they were a standard of use for trees under 12 inches) is a fully capable and practical tool, also being portable, easily handled in all situations and usable with one hand for short periods of time, or as convenient in limbing (which I find is often the case). I'm putting in a lot of time with axes under 3 pounds and will slowly work my way up. Same with handle lengths. Where I'll settle in for an ideal around the homestead firewood processing and do it (almost) all axe we'll see, but it may or may not be the same axe I'd take out trekking around in the bush, or living somewhere with only one axe. Context, familiarity, physical build and skill level all have to be considered. I think to talk about it a lot, we need to set a context. Consider my cordwood challenge, still two and a half months left! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qbQcNuID-ss.html
I’d really like to see Dave take the cord wood challenge. I’m sure out there on Alone he and Brooke cut almost that much, but they bucked with a saw. I’ve not yet cut a full cord with my boy’s axe in one year, but I’d still like to make a strong case for it as the best bush axe-mainly because it’s easier to pack in than a heavier, longer axe. Also, unless you’re splitting big rounds in the traditional way, I find that a thinly ground axe splits just fine.
I'm not a fan of old Bushcraft writers.....I think they were more writers than woodsman most of the time...But I do respect Nessmuk. He was a traveler, an adventurer, and he had a lot of experience. He was the real thing. As far as his axe....I don't like double bits myself, and I wouldn't want a tiny double bit, thats for sure.....but he must have saw value in it that I don't see......and I wouldn't argue with him.. because I think he was the genuine article.
By golly Dave, you are so right! Obviously you speak from years of experience and I very much appreciate that. Guys who speak with "authority" about military and tactical/firearm matters who are starched, white dress shirt guys during the week but would shoot themselves in the foot in the bush are the guys who will gladly tell us exactly the type of axe to buy, how to sharpen it and how to use It. Please continue to offer your experienced advice and many guys will save a lot of $$$ and keep a lot of legs when chopping. God's peace, Larry
Two reasons in my opinion. One..double bits have a thinner eye and don't flare out as much as a single bit. So, regardless of the grind it won't push the wood apart as well as an axe with a fat poll and a thicker eye area. Two...I would never give up a flat poll of a single bit axe. I'm not a professional lumberjack who fells trees all day and needs a double ( and neither is anybody else a axe swinging lumberjack for the last 70 years) so I want an axe that has a poll.
No Axe is perfect for everything. A backpackers axe will have to be smaller for carrying, a double bit axe can be sharpened for splitting and for felling. Most of my axe work is cutting limbs and the axe doesn't have to bee super sharp (but mine are just because). I own more axes then I'll ever use but thats my hobby. Enjoyed your thoughts on axes......are you an axe junkie member by chance???
There is absolutely nothing to disagree about with what you said. There is a distinct difference to be noticed in one axe compared to another, Splitting or felling,, period. I hope a lot of people watch this video and take your words to be true, for they are and will only help them. Thanks for the vid,, n your time
Thanks for the comment WoodsAndWater. Totally agree! What I see more than anything is someone buys a boys axe sized axe for Camping, thats razor sharp, and then splits( stove sized) blocks of (saw-cut) firewood with it. . .........wrong tool for the job. Cheers!
I just purchased an axe from a coop and I wish I would’ve watched this video fist! I honestly don’t know if I bought a splitting axe or a felling axe! 🤣 let alone the length of it. I have a big heavy duty all steel splitting wedge with a short handle that wears me out fast!! I grew up in west Michigan in the country and always just used what was in my grandpa’s shed. Now that I’m almost 38 I need to be more smart about my tool choice for the job. Thanks for the great videos! I learn so much from them!
I don't like fiberglass personally. The thinner the handle the more nimble and light an axe "feels". If you are chopping with an axe it should have a fine , flexible handle.......if you are using an axe to split wood I would leave the handle thick. The problem with fiberglass is that they make an axe feel like you're swinging a bat. ALL fiberglass handles are thick and clunky. They may be strong and weather resistant but they do now feel good to use ( to me). If you are just splitting firewood with an axe they are fine.
You could, but really double bits were for pro loggers back in the day. They aren't as useful as a single bit for most jobs because they don't have a flat poll and they are on the thin side for splitting. Don't get me wrong they are really cool....but they were a professional tool in an industry that has made them obsolete with chainsaws ....and the dozens of other pieces of machinery modern loggers use.
Good question, and there is versatility in a double bit with two different blades, but honestly, I have owned dozens of doubles and just about never use them. When it comes to use I just like the feel of an axe with a poll better.
Great video Dave. I have an old splitting axe and a couple of good felling axes. Two have U.S.A stamped on them and the other says Super Banko made in Sweden stamped on it. I'm currently looking at the Condor Cloudburst and the Greenland pattern axe. Have you tried the Greenland pattern yet?
I understand the concern about safety. but my question is: woudn't a razor sharp splitting axe split better than a dull one? or the sharpness of the edge doesn't change the result in splitting?
Good question. I don't mind having an axe "razor sharp" but only if its used for certain things. Felling trees is one of those things. Limbing and bucking would be the other two. A light thin tomahawk type hatchet should be razor sharp too. All these tools should have thin bits. On the other hand...an axe that you use for splitting should have a fat bit. Same with a hatchet that you intend to split wood with. In my opinion there is ZERO to be gained by having a razor sharp splitting axe. An axe used for splitting WILL NOT perform better no matter how sharp you make the bit. But the sharper it gets the more dangerous it becomes. I split 5-6 cord of wood a year. at least 3 cord I split with an axe. I just bought my first log splitter so maybe that will change now...but for 20+ years of splitting the winters wood in my adult life I have hit myself splitting LOTS of time. A razor sharp splitting axe would make the difference between getting a bruise and loosing a toe. Or, scalping your shin. Every piece of wood is different. People get tired. If you split wood on the ground like I do you are always dealing with twigs, sticks etc that can trow an axe off course. The whole axe "thing" is like the whole "vehicle " thing. If you want great milage you need a small economy car ( but it can't pull a trailer) .......if you want power to pull a trailer get a truck ( but you won't get good mileage......... Both the car and the truck are "vehicles" but they don't perform the same way. Axes with thin bits can be brought to razor sharp and used for chopping but they will never split well because they have thing bits. ( they are more like a knife blade) while axes with thick bits should be filed to a tight edge ( not razor sharp) and used for splitting ( because they will never be great at felling)..
thanx I think you answered. that means that technically, the blow that you strike when splitting is not affected by the sharpness of the edge. but when you split what matters is the vertical force of the blow and the part of the log that you hit. that is putting aside the safety concern, that yo made very clear. I am talking here about axe technique
Also...thinner axes "Stick" very easy. Because they can penetrate deeper, but may not have enough width to actually "Split" the wood apart by the time they have went in as far as they will go. Any piece of wood will split with enough force ( wedge force) pushing the single block into two separate pieces of wood.....You might take VERY thin axe like an Estwing and totally burry the blade before it ever exerts much wedging action to split the wood. On the other hand a LOT of cheap hardware store axes with FAT bits will split wood just fine because they are wide enough to force wood apart......weather they have any quality at all in the makeup of the steel used or the grain orientation of the handle , or the hang of the head or ANYTHING.! Just the fact they have a wide, FAT bit will likely make a cheap "Trupper" boys axe a way better splitter than a $200 GransFors Bruks Axe. I have a Dozen axes at least. Almost all of them are sharp , vintage American felling axes. I have ONE axe with no name that FAT and Heavy and I use it more than all the others combined because it splits wood better and I do more splitting that felling by far. Thanks.
Your wisdom is based on something so many "experts" don't have which is called Experiential Knowledge . More than a few people over the years have died from a self inflicted axe injury and one reason I don't allow anyone close to me while using an axe . Would like your input and opinions regarding a 2 bit axe and splitting mauls . Thanks again -> Lefty
Hey MT. I personally don't care for double bit axes. Without a flat poll on the back they loose a lot of value to me. The double bit Axe , in my opinion was a professional lumberjack tool..perfect for someone who needed a symmetrical, perfectly balanced axe with 2 cutting blades......basically its a production axe ( the nail gun of the logging world ). But its more dangerous and less useful to all the rest of the world. Lets face it , none of us are loggers who swing an axe for a living, and nobody has been an axe swinging logger for 75 years. While a single bit axe is every bit as useful as it ever was, the double bit axe is Outdated. Like the crosscut saw. It was a professional tool for an industry that has changed completely.
Mauls are handy for driving wedges and for some splitting work. I find that if I can't split a round with an axe then a maul "might work" , but more likely I'll need to split it with a wedge. I had a big elm tree fall down a few years ago and I had to split every bit of it with wedges and a borrowed log splitter. I burn 6 cord of wood a winter and I split it all with an axe mostly. I would say 85% axe 10% with a maul, and 5% with a splitting wedge. I have 2 huge beech trees that fell down last summer so I finally broke down and bought a log splitter. Those big beech rounds are nothing but trouble , and I can't get anywhere with an axe with them. The tops buck and split well but the big trunks have convoluted grain and they don't like to split.
Yep - Chainsaws pretty much replaced a loggers 2 bit axe and the large crosscut saw . That said - My crosscut saws never run out of gas . Thanks for your reply . Lefty
I find your input on Beech very interesting and Beech is something I have no experience with . I'm guessing a chainsaw is your primary weapon of choice . If you want to deal with the "wood from hell " , try splitting hedge wood !
Beech can split fairly well.....but its a tree with a million branches so there are lots of crotches to deal with. The trucks get difficult. The logs grow pretty straight but the grain is waived. I've never seen Hedge wood.
Trust your opinion completely. experience is the best tester. I feel comfort in a splitting axe is important due to the ongoing amount of use. A felling axe does not have to be as comfortable if it works efficiently. Great tips, thanks for filming/editing/uploading. Watch your top knot!
I will not argue the desire to use a heavier axe. Plenty of folks like a heavier axe for various reasons. The reasoning behind leaving your axe less sharp is silly and dangerous. The sharper your tool the safer it is. You need less force to cut so less strain and fatigue. Fatigue contributes to more accidents than anything else. This is also why a properly formed convex edge in the 25 to 30 degree range is the best choice for felling, limbing, and bucking. Less fatigue. If you cannot use a tool and set up each cut in a way that eliminates any chance of hurting your self, switch to a saw. Leaving the edge less than sharp will also lead to missunderstandings about the capabilities of an axe. I would take a boys axe for bushcraft over a 3 lb axe any day of the week and twice on sunday. With my boy's axe I can fell 8" diameter hard maple or in a few minutes without breaking a sweat and I'm not in shape. The capability comes from the edge geometry and sharpness along with the accuracy that comes with practice. I will choose the heaviest axe that I can for the situation, and I almost never need anything heavier than a boy's axe for bushcraft, although my bushcrafting never involves splitting chainsaw cut rounds. If that is your idea of bushcraft then you might live in the suburbs. The further I have the walk with the axe to get to my camp the lighter I will go. I have no issues going through 6" of dry hard maple with a 1.5 lb head on a 19" handle is less than 2 minutes and no sweat. You may think this is bs and that is your right, but I have little doubt that the smaller axes you have used in the past have been handicapped by poor edge geometry and sharpness. As you have stated, this is only my opinion.
I think we probably agree 90% about this subject but we're coming at it from totally different directions and are misunderstanding each other. Read the "about me" section on my channel and you will understand my angle a bit better. Also, It needs to be said, that I am NOT a bush crafter. The "bush" in Bushradical refers to "the bush" not the word "Bushcraft".I lived most of 20 years in interior Alaska, and half of that time with no running water or indoor plumbing. A lot of the stuff I find interesting, I think the bushcraft crowd would also find interesting, and I definitely want to reach that crowd with this channel..But I don't come form that world. I may do a whole video on this subject as Im sure there is some head-scratching on a some of my views. As for titling one of my videos "best bushcraft axe" .....well....... that was probably a little bit (click bait), and I apologize for it...but a lot of the interest in axes comes from the bushcraft community and I wanted to reach the most people by using the most efficient title .
Bushradical No worries. I'm not offended. I just want to be sure that there is some give and take in the ideas department. When you are out in the "bush" with a truck and you are working you do want a nice full sized axe. I'll never argue that because that is what I would bring. I have a great 3 lb no name axe that I absolute love (one of my over 60 axes). Gift from my wonderful wife. Once I take to the woods on foot my axes get smaller quick. The capabilites of those smaller axes does not diminish at the same rate as the weight does. In fact, far from it. That is what I want people to understand. I honestly think you would be tickled pink by the performance of one of my boy's axes. It might just change your opinion.
Bushradical I would suggest you start with a vintage boy's axe head (2.25 lbs) on a nice thin 26" to 28" sharpened just like in the video "an axe to grind". If you want you could just buy a Council Tools Boy's axe and do the same sharpening job. If that catches your fancy then move to a Hults Bruk Kisa or Husqvarna felling axe. They will both need some attention to the edge to get the same profile as in the video mentioned above. Both are basically the same axe with a 1.87 lb head on a 26" handle. With the right profile they will knock down 8" diameter hardwood trees in a couple minutes. I'm not saying these axes are better for splitting, but they will hold their own. They will make short work of bushcraft chores. My Kisa will still shave hair after downing an 8" Locust tree.
The first task is to define 'Bushcraft', if it is about crafting stuff and carving (which appears to be the sales pitch), then such as the GB SFA is a great tool (though not necessarily the best in my experience) modern bushcraft is more about shaping artifacts and cutting poles for shelters. Most 'Bushcraft axe ' purchasers are not going to be regular or heavy axe users, they are weekend hobbyists (nothing wrong with that). Most outdoorsmen, in my experience, are not regular tree fellers with an axe, relying on deadfall, or on a smaller chainsaw. Most axe users, in my experience, are campers (in which case they use an old beater axe that is capable of rendering deadfall into manageable pieces for a fire. Summer axe users typically have less concern about large volumes of firewood, though still like to be able to process firewood for an evening around the campfire. Come winter, there are less 'campers' but they are rightly more concerned with processing firewood as a necessity, so carrying a heavier axe (if they prefer the axe) is a pre-requisite. In my experience, a winter axe is at least 2.25 lbs, I will carry up to a 3lb if on foot, or up to 3.5lb with a vehicle. I have 3lb axes which will totally destroy firewood, so I do not see much benefit for going bigger, if I can't cut enough wood with that, I will pack a chainsaw, or a larger Silky Saw. I find a good axe of up to 2.25lbs has enough dexterity to performed more detailed cutting work. One final comment, axe head profile and haft length and shape are important factors in terms of what axes can be used for (i.e, light head, long haft, large head, short haft, thick wedge, slim profile).
Thanks Dave. I have been experimenting with haft length for a long time and totally agree with your comment about not being too long with the felling axe. I have learned that it is very important to master a good technique when splitting rounds, it is not just about pounding the heck out of wood with an 8lb Maul. Buckin' Billy Ray Smith has a load of videos of splitting rounds with a double bit axe, very effective. I have a few old Finnish axes and they are an unusual design, short haft, steep wedge heads, but sharp, they can bite well into wood and split OK (though the hafts are shorter than what you or I would be used to). Those old Finnish Woodsmen were wood cutting machines, they often used one axe for everything and they were usually 50-60 centimetre hafts made of Birch. Hey...yes, good luck with the TV show. I heard about it from Brooke. All the Best...stay safe :)
Solid advice...i was just looking at my old plumb axe out at the woodpile and thinkin, i should at least file out some of these dings in the blade...and then i thought,...maybe later...oh well...i have a razor sharp axe hanging in the shed...hardly ever use the thing..other than for limbing out at elk camp. and then only in designated wilderness areas where chain saws are not allowed and i never pack it in, a mule does that for me....great vid...watch out for the GB and Wetterlings gang, they'll want yer hide amigo!...ok...i'm outta here...atb...woods
LOL! you're spot on about the GB /waterlines thing. Honestly, those companies make great tools and they care about quality so hats off to them for that, BUT, they sell a lot of what I would consider a "pruning axe" to folks who need an axe to chop campfire wood. Many GB axes aren't more than big hatchets and they are usually super thin and sharp! Good for cutting' and chopping' branches up...but if you need a good axe for felling, IMO get a good old American made axe. I doubt any country has put more timber down with an axe that the U.S.A. and the old tools we made were good stuff. People get maimed trying to split wood with those thin light razor sharp axes and I just wanted to spell out the differences between a splitter and a feller for someone new to the tool , so they don't get something thats not right for the job...and get hurt. The last thing I want to do is step on someones toes...but it seems like there is a giant vacuum out there when it comes to old school axe use info.
"The last thing i want to do is step on someones toes...but it seems like there is a giant vacuum out there when it comes to old school axe use info."...well said !
Bushradical Bushcraft is all about cutting up wood for camp fires. Do you have any sources for information on how many people are hurt by using "pruning" axes for splitting wood? We all know heavy wedge like axes are good for splitting large chainsaw cut rounds for a wood stove. When I'm in the woods I almost never split anything wider than a few inches to create kindling. The fire usuallly cuts up the thicker stuff for me by burning it. A bushcrafter does not need to carry a heavy axe up a mountain or into the deep woods to build shelter and fire. Carrying that heavy load might lead to more......fatigue and accidents. LOL! Is this post about bushcraft or about your wood pile at home?
The folks i refers to hurting themselves are the two people from Alone who cut themselves and my old friend Neil who about took his foot off on a trapline by splitting with his "razor sharp" axe. What I see too much is someone with a hatchet sized axe, razor sharp, with a super thin bit , splitting a saw cut piece of firewood In a "bushcraft setting". ......if you have a saw, you don't need a felling axe........you would do better with a blunt full sized axe, but one still sharpe enough to fell a tree if you had to............ You will notice the title of this video is referring to a "bush" axe not a "bushcraft" axe. Please be aware I'm NOT a bush crafter. I was living in a 12'x12' log cabin north of Fairbanks Alaska the first time I ever heard the term "bushcraft" so I think we are coming from different galaxies on this issue. If you ask a bush crafter who they really respect they will tell you something like "Ray Mears", I will tell you "Jimmy Huntington". And 99.9% of the folks out there have no idea who that is......different worlds....... Thanks for the comment.
Bushradical the blunt part is the part where you run off the rails and into lala land. There is not one single advantage to a blunt edge or a dull axe. Zero. My razor sharp axes cut easier and and absolutely safer than your axe. Just because someone cuts too close to their foot does not indict the tool as a bad one. A sharp axe with a nice thin convex is much less likely to skip off the work piece in a normal angled blow. Much less likely to skip off a limbing cut. It's all around much more useful.
Ive never used one, but from what I know about axes I can't see what I would do with it. It seems way to small for felling trees, and way too thin and sharp for splitting, no to mention too light. When I go camping I need something to cut up dry wood with, which always makes me reach for a bow saw and a blunt, heavy axe ...3-5lbs. Those small scandinavian axes strike me as a carpenters tool. Like if you were going to carve a cigar store indian out of a log of green basswood, they seem PERFECT for that kind of work. Maybe I just need to buy one and give it a shot.
Armature question - is there such a thing as a double headed axe - one side felling - the other side splitting? I hate it when I cut my leg off. Nothing gets me hopping mad as when I cut my leg off!! Jack
A lot of people sharpen a double bit axe more blunt on one side for chopping out roots or splitting. But generally both bits are about the same thickness.
This is why we always need another axe :-D About the blunt splitter: I use a file to keep it not sharp-sharp but free from dents, rolls or chips. I find it "sticky" in the wood if not kept clean. For me its about the angle you put on the edge. A splitter can have an edge of 70° or more - but that is not what I understand as dull. It's a splitting edge.
For me, i'm all about an axe that is an all rounder. Something I can choke up on and use is for bushcraft or kindling splitting, but also be heavy enough to bring down a decent tree. Personally I use a 2 1/4 lb small forest axe from Hults Bruk that I picked up at a flea market for the steal of $25. Loved the video Dave
Doing well David , enjoying your show and learning a lot .. good teacher I sure have butchered my tools in the past ... thanks for the good teaching ... tons of love ... dad .
hi, dave. fellow axe junkie here. love your videos! how do you feel about bigger double bits? (i already know how you feel about cruisers :-) ) The new Council Tool saddle axe is really makin' waves. i think the weight and short handle length take it out of the running for being considered a really serious felling axe (but, like you said, not many people need to do serious felling these days). i've never seen or swung one, but it sure seems like CT might have combined the best of both worlds with their thinner bevel for the cutting tasks and the thicker one for the splitting and grubbing tasks. everyone who has one seems to love it. keep making the great videos, friend!
Thanks for the comments and questions...As for double bits, I currently only own 2 ...A true temper perfect, and a Gransfors ( a very old one ) that was given to me by a friend. I really don't use either one much. I miss the poll when its not there. It seems if you were a logger back in the day , the double would be your tool, but I hate having the extra edge at the expense of not having a poll. As for the small council saddle axe..it looks sweet, but I don't think I would use it much either. I don't ever use cruisers ( although I have a couple) and I think the saddle axe would be in the same boat ( for me) . I know they look great and people like em , I don't know... what do you think? What are they priced at by the way? What I would go nuts over is if council ( or anybody ) came out with a slim Connecticut pattern , factory ground for chopping. How about you?
Nice. Got an old TT woodslasher 3 1/2lb Michigan pattern on a 32 and it's very useful. It had a very rough life by the looks of it though with a mushroomed poll and blood stains on the handle but it's good and tight still with a pretty tough edge which I've used to chop a couple roots out with etc and since we couldn't find a decent hammer at the time it came in useful for putting a tarp on a shed.
Well said... I'm not crazy about double bits for bush use for the very simple hammer pole issue, but I see a lot of homesteaders and off-grid types do the dual purposed thing with one. I agree on the wedge being the best for the bush tho, works well enough for both tasks.
Great info again, Dave. I use a splitting axe (not sharp), a Grandsfors Brux (sharp and dangerous) and an old hatchet that I have to replace the handle on. I agree that you need more than one and the splitting axe is the one I use most. Grandsfors is impressive but don’t use it as much as the maul and the old hatchet. Really like how you and Brooke go with the good old basics.
Good video and a great reason to buy another axe. She cant argue with me when I show her this video and the danger Im in using what I have. Lol ;) I have a question. Being a city boy I dont get into the woods as much as Id like but we do have oak we keep pilied up for our firepit. Should I split it all for storage (usually lasts for a year) or leave it whole and split as Im using it?
for "bush crafting" ...(I call it hiking or camping) I don't split wood that often instead use a very light modified hatchet. I don't burn large logs even in winter. If I have to cut wood bigger than I can brake I mainly use a folding saw. I go into the forest to enjoy myself with things like walking, hunting, fishing, gathering not to cut firewood all the time. You are very right there is no perfect axe. Good video and I like how you tend to use practical common sense knowledge
Thanks for the comment SB. I'm not a bush crafter myself. When I think of taking an axe out in the woods , I'm usually chucking one in the bottom of my boat. I spent a lot of time in the bush north of Fairbanks Alaska, and burn a lot of wood, LOL. I put bushcraft in the title because a lot of interest in Axes comes from that community.
Ya, I'm smith by trade and some people are wanting me to make "bush craft" items I think it is very popular and I also think it is a good hobby and really does not harm anybody. I live in the forest of Southern Indiana, and I just use what is practical most of the time. Firewood I cut with a chainsaw for the Haus we have to think of production vs having fun chopping things with axes. LOL I can make anything but a dollar and fix anything but a broken heart. :D
LOL. Right on. I'm the same way. I like to use whats practical. The whole bushcraft thing has got a lot of people out in the woods and gave them a good reason to go...so I think its fine. Hunting and fishing used to get people outside but it seems like there are less people hunting every year, which is too bad. Even fishing seems to have dropped off over the years. Makes me want to go fishing just to do my part.
I disagree with the forrest service. You don't need an axe to be sharp to split wood, you need it to be sharp to fell and buck wood. Are mauls and wedges sharp. Nope. A splitting axe shouldn't be blunt... but you should never have it Sharp either. I may not have a degree in Forestry , but I've built a lot of homes with logs, felled a lot of trees with an axe and split 5-7 cord of firewood a year with an axe, so I have a strong opinion on all things axe. When it comes to splitting , you're separating fibers lengthwise, doing the work of a wedge. The cheeks of the axe do most of the work, as does the eye and the poll ( if the poll is wider than the eye). When it comes to chopping , you're severing fibers across the grain. Actually "cutting through" the fibers. A wedge or a splitting axe should never be able to cut you, because their job is Not to cut , but rather to force apart. I'm sorry Patrick....I could go on forever on this subject, lol. my apologies.
Bushradical I think they say it should be sharp, and that it is safer being sharp, because it reduces the chances of a glancing blow, and causes the axe to bite into the wood better. I agree, the sharpness of the axe doesn’t matter much after the initial pentetration, but I tend to agree with the forest service. I have had many wounds from glancing blows.
Bushradical also, quality mauls do come sharp. I have a Mueller hand forged maul from Austria, came wicked sharp. Gransfors splitting axes come sharp. Felling axes traditionally didn’t come very sharp back in the day. The user was intended to sharpen it to their preference.
I'm personally not a fan of doubles. They were perfect for felling, back when folks would log by hand....because they have perfect balance. But outside of that context, I would always choose a single bit.
