See our video, Can all Locks be Bypassed: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8E0VRBeNdpk.html All safes can also be bypassed with the right tools, knowledge, and time. Even bank vaults can be drilled. Just takes a great deal of knowledge and practice. We're not saying this safe is impenetrable, just a good safe at its price point. But if LPL is ready to attack one, he knows where to buy it. 😁
I’ve got a better idea would you please send one of these safes to me I won’t lock pick it but I will bolt it down to the floor and use it and I’d be really thankful to have it👍
I just watched this video. This is a nice safe with some good features. But I immediately was concerned that there are no dead bolts on the hinge side of the door. If you look at the 4:40 point in the video, you can see the rear of the hinges. Note that the hinge next to the door edge seems to be only about two inches of about 12 gauge sheet. Seems to me a few minutes with a sawzall with make short work of that and the door comes right off.
There is a 1 inch solid steel ridge on the backside of the door that runs the length of the body and secures into a channel. Thus, you can cut off the hinges and the safe stays locked. I show it in detail here in this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9u-asS7Ldys.html
I am strongly considering this exact model. 354 lbs is still a lot to move, especially to the 2nd story of a house, can the door be removed to make transport lighter? Is it true almost half the weight of a safe is in the door? Thanks for the video and the help!
What I look for in a strong safe, I look at where the safes bolts protrude from. That area where the bolts come from must be beefed up with steel at least 1/4 thick steel. I've seen safe doors that house the bolts are protruding from sheet metal thick steel, I mean how flimsy and unprotected is that. flimsy, and cheap bolt housings are susceptible to easy go at it type prying. This Hollon safe looks like a great safe, because it seems to fulfill the requirements I like to see in a dafe.
The door seems very weak to me. When I worked in a bank the safe doors had locking bolts on either side of the door. On this safe all you need do is take an angle grinder to the hinge then jemmy the door out of its frame.
No. There is a 1" steel ridge on the entire hinge side of the door that locks into place when the door is closed. Thus, the door is held by bolts and this 1" steel ridge on all four sides and can't be removed if the hinges are cut.
It's subjective because it really depends on the value of the content and your budget. The absolute best safes you can buy are TL-30 rated safes X 6 (TL30X6). They carry a TL-30 rating on every side of the safe. We have an article explaining safe ratings: www.acmelocksmith.com/blog/safe-burglary-ratings-explained/ and a video talking about what to look for when buying a safe: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1X85oZ38NOw.html
Any opinion on the Chub or Tann burg safes? I remember the vault that was installed in a bank building in Downtown Columbus Ohio in the late 70's. 3.5 foot walls reinforced with all types of expanded metals, hardened rebar, steel conduits for alarm wiring in the walls. All of which was poured with concrete mixed with carbide pieces. Fast forward to 2004, watched the demolition of a 10 year old bank branch, it took them 2.5 weeks to demolish the vault, wish I had bought the door assembly when it was removed.
I'm sorry. I'm not familiar with those brands. That bank vault sounds amazing. In many modern TL-15 and TL-30 safes (the next step up from this safe) you'll find concrete-composite filled exterior walls . www.acmelocksmith.com/buy-safes-online/shop-safes-by-type/high-security-safes.html
Nah one you can't see you can feel but one that isn't accessible is safer. Throw a safe into the Mariana trench and no one will get your stuff. Of course it is safe but not what the industry considers secure which they call "CIA" confidentiality, integrity, accessibility in which case the safe in the Mariana trench is safe and if your stuff doesn't mind water or pressure its still integral but it's not accessible.
I like the glass re-locker. I favor a dial combination with a key to operate the bolts. No fixed deadbolts on the hinged side is a weak point. Also exposed hinges are a bad idea.
There's a fixed hinge that runs along the entire width of the right hand side of the door. It's about 1 in wide, you cut the hinges on the exterior off and the door will still not open.
@@LocksmithRecommended Thank you for getting back to me on this topic. What's your opinion on plastic internals for the combination so it's hard to x-ray?
For someone experienced at moving safes, it's not that hard to move. I watched safe movers deliver a 4,300 lb safe and they didn't even work up a sweat. On a level concrete surface free of bumps, one man alone can move it. I assume they could move it back out just as easily. It does take a pro though.
I am wondering that also I have been looking at the AM SEC BF 1512 it has a half inch thick steel plate door and an inner and outer 1/8 inch steel sides with some sort of specialty cement in bedded with some sort of special steel pellets in between the two walls I would like to get a TL 15 or a TL 30 safe however I’m scared it would fall through my floor as they are so very heavy
Dial combination vs electronic. We offer them both, but the electronic is what we mainly sell. You can see them on our website here. acme-safes-for-sale.com/burglary-fire-rated-safes.html?manufacturer=5431 And here's our article on dial locks vs electronic locks. www.acmelocksmith.com/articles/safe-dial-vs-electronic-lock/
@@Logan0o Great question! There are water resistant safes, but wee don't sell them, because they are built so cheaply. There are ways to get both theft and water protection. www.acmelocksmith.com/articles/are-safes-waterproof/
There's a 1" wide strip of steal that fits into a groove along the entire length of the right side of the door. I should have drawn attention to it. So no, it can't be opened even if the hinges are cut.
Does the door have Single or double wall steel and is the door as thick as the rest of the body or thicker? Will you be carrying the BFS burglary fire safes from American security?
The BFS by AMSEC is a RSC-rated safe. See our video on Safe Burglary Ratings Explained ( ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9u-asS7Ldys.html ). RSC safes are the next class up from this safe. More expensive, but more secure and UL tested. We sell them and offer them for drop shipping at no cost, but don't have them on our website. For a quote on a BFS, check out our website at: www.acmelocksmith.com/buy-safes-online/custom-safe-quote
Whether or not it's good for you depends on what you're going to put in it. If the content is going over 20/25K, the you may want to look at TL-15 / TL-30s.
The magnet trick was discovered on Sentry safes using cheap casings and tiny solenoids. Thus the magnet has enough strength to pull the solenoid to release the lock. You have this issue with almost all of the big box store safes. That's why you see videos on the technique always being used on cheap, budget safes from big box stores. Good safes (like this one) use UL-rated locks (S&G, SecuRam, etc...) where the release is motorized. UL-rated locks converted to motorized releases about 10 years ago or so. Because there is a mechanical linkage, rare earth magnets cannot open the safe. The mechanical linkage holds the release in place so it can't be opened this way.
@@LocksmithRecommended Thank you for that great explanation. Totally makes sense. Whenever I see electronic locks I wonder about magnet vulnerabilities and such.
I do not see a option to bolt down what good is a safe you can't bolt it down it doesn't matter how much it weighs if its not bolted down it can be moved
@@matthewtalbot-paine7977 The code is stored on a chip inside of the safe and will remain in memory when the batteries are swapped. The by the way is what also allows you to swap out the face plate and maintain your code should any of the faceplate electronics fail. You won't need to drill the safe (when a dial fails, you always have to drill).
No. There is a 1 inch steel ridge on the backside of the door that secures into a channel within the body of the safe. Thus, you can cut off the hinges and the safe stays locked. I show it in detail (because people kept asking in this video) here in this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9u-asS7Ldys.html
I am considering buying a Hollon HS-310 series safe. Is this a good home safe($300 or less is all I can afford at the moment) and would you reccomend the combo lock or the digital lock?
It's a home safe that is primarily meant to protect paperwork and small valued items. It is a great safe for that price point, but not something you want to put a lot of money or valuables in. Take a look at or video Where to Hide Small Safes. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uEv7u0WFHww.html You can buy the HS-310 off of our website here. We only sell the digital lock version. At this price point it just makes sense to have something that's easy to get into. www.acmelocksmith.com/buy-safes-online/hollon-home-safe-hs-310e.html
When you talk about the bolts you are showing an external view of the bolt. Isn't the important part of the bolt the part that is on the inside of the door? You don't show it but from some accidental views it looks like there is almost zero bolt length inside the door and because of that it isn't possible to give two separated support points for the interior part of the bolt. Basic physics tells me that is not good.
There's a 1" wide strip of steal that fits into a groove along the entire length of the right side of the door. So no, it can't be opened even if the hinges are cut.
You are correct, the bolts are simply bolted to the angle iron bolt work and are only supported in one place by the angle iron they pass through. That's not a great design and high end safes support the bolts in at least two places but for a small B rate safe with a plate door, going into a plate door jamb, as long as they are long enough it's more than sufficient. Although you're right that it's a crappy, corner cutting, cost saving way to do thing's. Sadly this seems to be Hollons major weak point in all of their low end safes.
I don't need burglary protection, so I'm looking at just their home line such as the HS-360D. Do you recommend that line as well? I noticed that you only stock the electronic versions. Will you be getting the dial version?
For fire protection and keeping general people out, the Hollon HS line would be fine. We can certainly get the dial versions, but we hardly ever sell them so we don't list them. What I don't like about them is it requires both the key and the combination to be used in order to open the safe. They are the same price as the electronic versions.
@@kelalamusic9258 Be sure to check out some of her other videos. We have videos on safe fire ratings. What the burglary ratings mean. And what the main things are that you should look for when buying a safe.
It all depends on what you're putting in it. Take a look at our Video "How to Choose the Best Safe" ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1X85oZ38NOw.html And then our Article on "Which Safe is Best for Your Needs" www.acmelocksmith.com/buy-safes-online/find-the-right-safe
It's interesting how much interest that small generates. It seems to be a hot item! that particular one is no longer made but the new version of it is on our website here. acme-safes-for-sale.com/small-cash-box-drop-safe-hd-03c.html 1/2 inch steel door. Great little drop safe.
It is! It's a decent safe. Not high security. But it will hold a cash drawer for a resister. So for keeping a cash drawer locked up, it's a good way to go.
It's no longer made. We have one left. It's quarter inch steel, burglary rated, drop box. PM me on Facebook, and I will get you the dimensions and a price on Monday. Jonathan! Congratulations. You are the winner of the Schlage Smart Lock used in the video. Please message me on Facebook with your address. facebook.com/AcmeLocksmith/
You can't see it clearly in the video but there is an entire metal channel that runs along that side of the door. When the door is closed, the channel locks into a track in the safe, so the door cannot be opened if the hinges are cut. Larger versions of the safe also have both a top and bottom bolt. There use to be fixed bolts on that side, and they've recently switched to an entire channel.
@@LocksmithRecommended i just want something large enough that someone cant just walk off with it and that can protect against a thief for less than $600 i know alot of safes are more for show or just fire at that price point :(
@@aaronsanchezz At the price point, the HS-500 is a good safe, but at that price point, there aren't a lot of security features but it does avoid the pitfalls of other brands. I'd recommend bolting it down once you have it. acme-safes-for-sale.com/hollon-home-safe-hs-500e.html
I do not. But in general, this video has some input on what to look for in a good safe. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1X85oZ38NOw.html
@@LocksmithRecommended Two questions would you feel confident the average homeowner using the BF 1512 bolted down to the floor and also is the BF 1512 available in an RSC2 version??? Also does your company offer the fingerprint lock or the combination/fingerprint lock for the BF 1512 and how much would it add to the price???
@@william38022 You'd want to bolt it into concrete. We couldn't drop ship one with the fingerprint lock on it because AMSEC does not have a biometric lock. They do not make an rsc2 version. The Next level up would be a Tl-15.
@@LocksmithRecommended I noticed there are different size BF safes some slightly larger than the BF 1512 if I bought one of those larger ones I could weld a 4 sided 1/2” steel box with no front door (because the BF has the 1/2”plate door it would protect the front) and place it in the bottom of the safe and have a bolt go through the bolt down hole 🕳 through the homemade job and through the hole inside the safe itself to secure that homemade box to the bottom of the safe itself and then the bolt would extend through the box and the safe and go down into the concrete if someone did cut the safe open from the side or top they would stillhave to get through the half inch steel plate I could even place a small burg watcher money box inside the homemade job
I don't know much about Steelwater. Fort Knox makes a great safe. Spendy but good. Here I'm looking at safes at specific price points. And you would be hard-pressed to beat Hollon at their price point.
@@LocksmithRecommended thank you. Steelwater is a South Carolina based outfit, I like what I saw regarding their safes, the seem to have similar to the Hollon safes in regards to standards.
Most electronic locks now have the battery inserted from the outside of the safe. Those that don't typically have a key override or a jumper that will put enough juice into the lock to get it open.
@@LocksmithRecommended Yes, tried magnets and that didn’t seem to work. Tried rocking and bouncing it and finally it opened. The weird thing is that it hasn’t acted up since then. I don’t really trust it much now, but am using it until I can afford to buy a real safe. If it fails again, I will just open it a la The Locking Picking Lawyer’s technique.
Nothing. The door stays locked in place by the bolts on the swing side and by a 1" wide steel channel that runs the entire length of the door on the hinge side. I highlight that feature here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9u-asS7Ldys.html
If you just want fire protection or to keep your kids/cleaner/house sitter out, that safe will be fine for you. If you are putting valuables in it, get something more secure. Check out our video Choosing the Right Safe. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MeEa-6C5zoA.html
It's one they don't make any more. It's a burglary-rated drop safe with a 1/2 thick door and 1/4 inch solid steel body. If you're local (Phoenix), it's a great buy, but if not, shipping it would be very expensive.
I have a question about tge safe? I currently have a safe from Costco and its a fire rated safe however after outting documents and valuables inside it gets very moist cnd has a bad smell. Whst am i doing wrong?
Most come with default digital, but we can order them with the old dials. Just select that configuration. www.acmelocksmith.com/buy-safes-online/shop-safes-by-type/burglary-fire-rated-safes.html?manufacturer=5431 For comparison of dial vs electronic locks, check out our article: www.acmelocksmith.com/blog/replace-safe-dial-with-an-electronic-lock-for-easier-access/
I’m in the market for a safe for my precious medals. I need a decent size for an affordable price. All these home safes looks like they can just be ripped open.
Home safes, like those at the big box stores, are not meant to protect valuables. Have you seen our video on Burglary Ratings Explained and Which Safe is Right for You? The issue is, you say for an "affordable price". Good safes are not cheap safes. Cheap safes are made cheaply. Several years back I had a person tell me they were putting $100,000 of content in a safe but they didn't want to spend more than $300. ??? Makes no sense. Burglary Ratings Explained: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9u-asS7Ldys.html Which Safe is Right for You? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MeEa-6C5zoA.html
I wouldn't bolt into a post-tension slab. It can be done, it's just very dangerous. Whether or not we could get you a safe in a week would depend on what safe you ordered and where you were located.
There's a 1-in wide strip of metal that fits into a 1-in wide recessed groove. So the entire hinge side acts as a single giant bolt. You cannot cut the hinges and remove the door.
B/C rated safes don't really exist any more. A burglary-rated safe without a UL burglary designation (RSC or TL Rating) is a safe that the manufactures builds to withstand a burglary. Basically, it's a much tougher safe than a typical home rated fire safe. UL ratings cost a ton and at this price point, won't be found. You really have to look at what the manufacture is doing to that safe to prevent a burglary to determine the quality of it. How thick is the steel, the bolts, is there a drop rating (this one is 30') is there a shock relocker, a glass relocker etc...This is one of those safes. Check out our video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1X85oZ38NOw.html to see the features you want to be looking at to make a secure safe. We also carry UL rated safes on our website at www.acmelocksmith.com/buy-safes-online/shop-safes-by-type/high-security-safes.html
This does not have a solid steel front, opting for the glass relocker instead. Move into a UL-rated RSC, TL-15 or TL-30 for solid steel doors. Check out our video on Safe Burglary Ratings Explained. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9u-asS7Ldys.html
Yes, a small amount of play in the 360 is normal. But it should be minor. If it feels too loose, shoot a video of it and send it to Hollon support team, they'll let you know if you're within the normal range.
LOL. You're not the first to ask about that safe! No longer made but Hollon has one that is very similar. It is backordered until August though. www.acmelocksmith.com/buy-safes-online/small-cash-box-drop-safe-hd-03c.html
@@Andagio. The one that's above the safe and the video? No it's not fireproof. Little drop saves are meant to temporarily hold cash. Until the cash is either moved to the bank or into a more protective fire/burglary safe.
@@LocksmithRecommended Thank you! But one last question. Do you have a recommendations for one that’s similar to that size, fire proof, and can be bolted down?
@@Andagio. None of the vendors I am aware of carry a fireproof small drop safe because they are meant to hold cash temporarily just until it can be placed in a fire safe.
@@matthewtalbot-paine7977 Are you referring to the glass relocker? If someone tries to break into the safe using force, it will break the glass and throw the relocker to lock the safe down.
I haven't looked through the rest of the comments - but since this is an electronic lock can the combination be changed as or when needed or is it fixed at the time of installation?
Yes. With electronic safe locks you can change them at will. Just be sure to do it with the door open and test before closing. 👍 We can also get this safe with a dial or a combination dial/electronic lock (you can use either or).
What you will want depends on what you are putting into it. Several things to consider. See: Article How to Choose a Safe: www.acmelocksmith.com/buy-safes-online/find-the-right-safe/ Our budget home safes are here: www.acmelocksmith.com/buy-safes-online/shop-safes-by-type/home-fire-safes-discount.html
I was thinking the same thing also I want a TL 15 or a TL 30 however 700 pounds would go through our floors there’s just no way you have to get underneath your house and have concrete pillars installed
I care more about an attack through the side. An angle grinder will go through thin, unhardened metal in about 5 minutes. What has your safe done to protect against that.
You definitely need to check out our video on Burglary Ratings Explained. This is not a high security safe (TL X 6), just a great safe at this price point.
As a mechanical engineer I really have to laught how cheap these 'safes' are build. It's all air and hefty looks. I guess I have to build my own safe..
Cheap safes are built cheaply. Buy a real TL rated safe, not a bottom tier B rate safe like this. You'll pay for it but it won't be lightly or poorly constructed.
@@LocksmithRecommended Absolutely, even a B rate, smartly installed, is more protection than most need. I believe most insurance companies go up to 20k in a B rate. They are significantly tougher than most imagine.
