No kidding, the IBM towers back in the 90s had 1.1 or 1.2 mm thick cases, i can't confirm for sure because i don't have it around me, but that metal case was strong enough to support a broken beam once in an emergency. I've been transplanting my computers in it for years.
@@OutdoorBlues welcome to the internets sir. If you still value your morals, mind, soul, life and have respect for others, I suggest you turn off the apparatus you're currently using to access the internets before it's too late.
@@ilovefunnyamv2nd that's why I store my valuables in my oven. point 1: its more fire proof, point 2: its harder to cut, point 3: its easier to open when I need (wouldn't easily deform from things crumbling on top of it)
Locks and safes need to go through a certification process to be sold as locks or safes. Any product that fails certification will be branded as a "lock-like" object, but not a real lock.
@@seanleith5312 Because it makes him easy money. His channel has millions of subscribers. His brand is more valuable than anything he could make as a lawyer. He also now sells the lockpicking tools so his business is expanding. Pretty soon he'll have his own line of padlocks and safes. The guy is taking over the market. Is that good enough reason?
@@ywgx7943 Hello Ywgx, hoping your day is going well. A joke has a structure (often) that consists of "the set up" which creates tension an interest. And a "punch line" ("Punch line" see 'Punch and Judy' ) which resolves the 'tension' from an unexpected perspective. In the example shown above, the set up is comparing a fluke(fish) to a (locking) safe. The punchline is the inference that when one cut open a fish there are "guts" (and guts are also used to infer strength and bravery), while on the other hand the 'safe' lacks the messy fish guts and also lacks the inferred strength. The 'delivery' is the fashion in which the 'set up' is made and respects the common practice of the longer the set up / the shorter the punchline. And of course the joke and it's delivery can be measured as good or bad in terms of 'faffs'. Faffs or laughs are the quantitative number of actual chuckles made and the length of time the chuckling time persist. Therefore: faffs(X) * T(ime) = humor Humor with a high number are sometimes known as "gags". And gags that work often and repeatedly are called "shtick' (a.k.a. 'bits) A shtick (Yiddish: שטיק) is a comic theme or gimmick. The word entered the English language from the Yiddish shtik (שטיק), in turn derived from German Stück and Polish sztuka (both ultimately from Proto-Germanic *stukkiją), all meaning "piece" or "thing"; note that "Theaterstück" is the German word for Play (theatre) (and is a synonym of "Schauspiel", literally "viewing play" in contrast to the "Singspiel"). Sometime in performance it is necessary to give the audience permission to laugh or introduce that a joke is to follow. This is done to avoid unwanted tension that the joke can not resolve. For Example: (This will be your personal punchline Mr. Ywgx, wait for it!) Your Punchline: Isn't Naah Indian Bread? (LAFFS and Giggles!!!) Notice the brevity of the punchline is just 4 words. (this line is an example of "beating a dead horse".) Well that's all I have for you today, if you do have any question please put them below (this line is an example of humor thru repetition).
Wood blades by design are expecting to need to cut through metal screws or nails, while they say it "can't" and "shouldn't" they know people will hit screws and nails hidden in boards and don't want to constantly have to warranty blades and saws because of it. Cutting through a metal sheet thinner than a razor blade is plenty easy, especially since that foam can be basically picked away with your finger nails.
@@williamjackson5942 - What's the matter, princess - can't take a joke? It would seem the only person "whining" here is you, my fragile little friend. Sack up, Sally, or the world is gonna eat you up.👍
I have this safe... correction, I had this safe. It got jammed and the handle broke. There is a much easier way than using a circular saw. I cut the hinge bolts on both ends with a battery operated sawzall which took about 20 seconds each and was sooo much less messy. Just stick the blade in between the silver and the gray part of the hinge on both ends and let the sawzall do the work.
@@aserta I am trying to open a safe too and I even went and got a crowbar with a sharp end, but I couldn’t even get it in any part of the safe where the door is. There is a metal lip inside of it that prevents the crowbar from even getting in, I tried jamming it in with a hammer and sledge hammer but it didn’t work, and I also don’t wanna break what’s inside of it. Gonna go to Home Depot today to get one of these saws
"This is the Lockpicking Lawyer and today we're gonna be checking out the security of skulls or these security guards..." *VVVVVRRRRRRRRRRREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE*
Forget the saw, if I was in charge of anything with locks and I heard that voice I would probably crap myself. I know he would defeat all the locks. Even if He was handcuffed the locks would be defeated.
"In any case, that's all I have for you today. If you do have any questions or comments about this, please put them below. If you liked this video and would like to see more like it, please subscribe. And as always, have a nice day. Thank you!"
Me half paying attention: did I just hear him say he’s going to try to cut into a safe with a circular saw? A literal second later: that cuts smoother than my circular saw on wood!
@Nobody Knows So since ur posting the same "FIRE-rant" in several threads ill answer in several of them, cos u clearly like to twist facts..! So if u didnt see the whole vid ill just mention the obvious here. LPL literally says: "According to the company website it provides SECURITY protection, FIRE protection and WATER protection. Now i cant speak to the fire and water protection, but as for 'SECURITY' - THATS the reason im making this video." ... "...confusing 'cos ... Its a heavy box. Its called a 'SAFE'. It looks like a SAFE. It operates like a SAFE." ... "If we read this manual we can see that it explicitly anticipates that owners will keep valuables like jewelry and watches in it." But yeah NK, u focus on the fire part of it... X-]
"ok here we have the luxury version, 10 inch steel plates, 8 lock cylinders, integrated tempering alarm, internal power suppl-" "yeah... uhm... that's out of my price range, what about that one over there?" "oh that's just a foam-box covered in sheet metal." "i'll take it!"
Considering the first one is a safe aimed to combat thieves and the second is a fire-safety lockbox aimed to keep documents and stuff like that safe from housefire or flood, well, I'd rather take the fire-box to my house and leave the luxury safe to bank. I like to call it the 'oh god the house is on fire' test, akin to the Chieftain's 'oh god the tank is on fire' test in that when shit hits the pooper and you have need to emergency exit your house, how long does it take to gather essential important things like indentification, certificates, graduation documents, etcetra that would be threathened by fire, flood or other natural disaster? Opening a safety vault presumably located in your cellar for maximum security, is far slower than just grabbing a file container or perhaps a small lockbox from your bedroom, which can handle rough treatment and can withstand fire for a while if you need to leave it behind during your escape. I can grab the file box from beside my bed, throw it out of the window, nab a pair of slippers and toss my bedsheet over the broken window's frame to keep me safe from glass shards while I climb over it and get out of the house in less than a minute with clothes, 'shoes', phone, credit cards and my identification papers, which I consider a passable test. For me the 'oh god the house is on fire' test is more important than 'oh god there is a robber in the house' test since I live in area where house fire is around hundred times more likely than a robber entry, but hey hou.
You get the better safe you hide. And then you get a cheap one that thieves steal. And it is the one that has a glitter bomb rigged to go off when someone opens the door. BOOM! GLITTERY! Is it evil? Well, yes but really if I wanted them dead. I'd be home and shot them.
@Swampy dude clearly bought one and is upset that he feels stupid now. He's grasping at straws giving others bad advice who may or may not have drastically different security needs than he. Not everything can be kept in a bank. Just because he doesn't have anything valuable enough to justify a proper safe doesn't mean the rest of the world doesn't either.
Me too, I think he was using the left side of the plate to guide along that seam. He must have known how deep to cut off that line too, I'm sure he makes no presumptions.
But bolt it down in your house in a cupboard or something similar and then what use would this attack method be. This safe looks like its built better than most American homes.
And now I apply a good coating of Flex Tape to the cut safe! Not only does it cover up the cut well enough, it also increases the defensive properties of the safe, thanks to Flex Tape's strong adhesive properties! Might wanna change the lock mechanism though, heard not much from this brand....
Not at all. There are some materials that are almost impossible to saw through and they're mainly clay+concrete(with some additives) so it would be mainly dust if there was a tool good enough to saw through it
@@notpoliticallycorrect4774 or you could build one yourself into your house wall with concrete, thick sheet of metal and a mechanical lock mechanism that isn't obvious. Your classical decoration Acting as a lever, connected by ropes and all that. Stick a dummy lock on the sheet of metal. I doubt the average robber will figure out whats going on or if he does, he will have to make a mess of the place to enter the safe. 🤷♂️
Yeah everything is made so cheap it's ridiculous to even try to find anything that is actually good. The companies use the cheapest materials. Then use the cheapest labor. And put it together as fast as possible while just barely staying in the range of their own standards. While taking shortcuts to avoid lawsuits. They probably spend more time worming their way into loopholes than actually using their resources in an efficient way.
Gotta hand it to Master Lock management, always consistent, there would no point to exceed customer expectation as that would not change the brand reputation.
LMAO, "Zoomed in on the Master Lock Logo" What junk, and the funny part is portable safes are just that "Portable" the thief can take it home and open it when they want.
@Tyrant Patrol it's a portable safe 😩 you don't get bolts .... or bolt holes cause it's portable ..... PORTABLE!!!!!!!! Just get it dude why won't you get it
These safes are not designed for being burglary-proof - they're designed for fire resistance. The keypad and lock are just for deterrent measures. You would keep things in here that would be a hassle to replace in the event of a fire, but not necessarily of much value. Things like passports, birth certificates, titles, etc. You definitely do not want to keep a lot of cash or jewelry in these, keep those in an iron safe or preferably in a safe deposit box at your bank.
I want to disagree. I put mine on my kitchen counter and lock my bread and doughnuts in it. Not one mouse has broken into it, to steal my stash. It does a fine job.
Any time someone would call my shop asking about a safe opening, during the conversation, if the brand name "Sentry" came up, i would immediately reprice my quote as a standard opening rather than a safe opening. Then when they asked why it suddenly got cheaper, i would let them know, "That's Sentry brand. It's not a 'safe', it's just a lock box. They're so easy to get into, I'd feel bad charging you for opening a real safe."
billtheunjust I'd say that the real utility is keeping important papers and such safe from house fires and water damage (splash from fire hoses and such, probably not from literally being submerged underwater for any length of time) but as far as security goes, it's no better than a metal filing cabinet with a lock on it. Enough to stop klepto teenagers or a sneak thief who gets in the house while you're asleep but any real thief who has a little time and can afford to make some noise (homeowner isn't home) will get into it without much difficulty.
@Chase S Commie cucks who cry about capitalism are not a solution, and fail to understand that blaming capitalism for people/companies that are unscrupulous does not somehow mandate a "government takeover" of production and property resources.
Common lock picking tools: "Please let me in." LPL's preferred tools, combined with his skills and know-how: "You're letting me in." This video: "I WASN'T ASKING, YOU ARE LETTING ME IN NOW."
@@spiritualcramp8000 It's a FIRE Safe, with some additional lock security. It's constructed to reduce the rate that thermal energy is transferred thru the safe and those to important things you have inside the safe so hopefully they are not lost in a house fire.
Craigfield who would spend money to buy a safe that protects stuff from a fire and not from a thief? and i wish the lawyer throws this crap into a fire to see how much is this really ''fire safe'' i bet it melts in a few minutes.
Lol man I forgot my code awhile back and just took a crowbar to it and prided the side off till the door opened. Really I just buy these to keep things out of reach of my kids lol
That's not illegal. LPL didn't say that he would "open it without a skill" attack. He said "low skill attack". He's a lawyer, wouldn't make such a rookie mistake.
@@ArielNMz step one is checking anything you have access to first. Safe come last if you have to do destructive opening. It is also prefered to load the whole safe up and bring it back to work with if you can.
@@anhduc0913 yes but if you can't open the toolboxes or the safe you'll take the safe because it's easier to remove and likely has more valuable stuff in it
not a good idea because some thieves actually steal tools because sometimes they can be very valuable especially power tools or more popular brands of hand tools
"Provides fire protection, water protection and security protection" Does what it says on the tin - it would seem you are quite well protected against fire, water and security.
Have you tested any safes that have an actual burglary rating? Would love to see if a safe rated with an Underwriter Laboratory rating of tl-15 actually takes more than 15 minutes to break open. Not to mention how you would attack the safe. That would be a great video.
to be fair, the safe is small enough that one person can carry it away without effort. also: the metal is thin enough that he could have achieved the same result with a boltcutter and a pickaxe.
I'd love to see a battery operated circular saw using a Diablo metal cutting blade up against a full size reputable gun safe. Those blades cut rebar and 1/4" steel like it's wood. People need to realize your stuff isn't protected. All a safe does is keep honest people honest.
@@gregsicinski8138 *Gotta look at the TL rating* which encompass tools like you described and much more. TL provides a summary of all other ratings combined except protection for contents from fire. example - some ratings show resistance to a cutting torch, but TL encompasses torches and everything else commonly available. To get a rating, the lab gets plans of the safe inside and out including all materials used, look it over closely, and pick what they think are the best ways to attack and the fastest - the resulting rating is how much time it took them to break into the safe (TL-15 is 15+ minutes). Note the time is from experienced experts using information a burglar isn't likely to have. Most burglars will take much longer. TL-5 is OK for home, will deter most thieves who just look for a quick smash and grab and out the door in well under 5 minutes - no need to lug around heavy tools, linger, and greatly risk getting caught when they can net jut as much breaking into 2 more homes. TL-10 is better if you have a lot of valuables and puts it out of reach of most thieves unless they specifically know you have a safe and came prepared. Some might try anyway but will give up when they aren't making any headway after a few minutes. TL-15 is common for jewelry and upper end watch stores and would be the upper end for any home application. I have a TL-30 but this and anything higher is overkill for a home. I bought it used for the size to hold document binders in a fireproof environment. I was robbed - it was in the 1st room the thieves entered. They didn't even try to attack the safe, just pulled out the top drawers in the bedroom dressers which had nothing, and exited empty handed without bothering to check the rest of the home (I have several large pure silver decorative items they missed but are usually a target of thieves) - probably spent more time climbing in and out the window than searching for loot. Gun safes still have value - almost all professional thieves are looking to get in and out of the home in well under 5 minutes, so they will usually skip a safe unless thy are confident they can break into it in less than 5 minutes with the tools they have with them, and as I found they act as a deterrence from a thorough search of the home - after they find the bedroom empty, they assume anything of value is in the safe. Also most safes have fire protection. The small safes like this or what you buy at a retail chain are no deterrence to theft (2 pry bars would have probably popped the door as fast as the power saw), and when tested under fire they failed when they fell off the table and the door popped open. Another big gain is to hide the safe. Most thieves search the bedrooms, kitchen, and home office so hide the safe someplace else, the rest of the home is just a walk through scanning for items in plain sight. It isn't like they are going to take the time looking for a hidden wall cavity in the basement-garage-hallway-laundry room-utility closet-etc. or enter the attic or crawl space. Consider having just a hidden wall cavity behind a mirror or wall mounted bookcase (or something else secured to the wall) with a well made, tight, hidden latch to open. You can't steal what you don't know is there. Needs to be something that is permanently attached - thieves do check behind pictures and wall hangings, and book cases that roll across the floor will eventually leave marks. For an apartment to hide small items, I made a dummy 2 gang receptacle box with the cover held by magnets, cut out the back and sides of the box not used for mounting, and made an internal chamber. No thief is going to start checking for fake electrical receptacles. If looking, I recommend shopping used safes. They go for a fraction of a new one, but it isn't like they wear out from lots of use.
Yeah, he just carried it off to do that at home at his leisure without having to worry about getting caught. I think you can cut through the micro thin this thing with a simple hacksaw - cut through the shell, pull or pry it off it off , then break apart the foam with a machete.
@@clambroth1923 You could just as easily open it without tools, if you don't care about actually harming whats inside of it. Just drop it from a reasonable height, the sheet metal will bend and you should be able to peel the rest of it off. Then you only have the fire isolation stuff left, which you can basically scratch out if you wanted to, stuff is quite brittle.
@@needmorespaceformyna 2:32 - just roll the seam, use chisel to roll the seam out, peel back both sides, jig-saw to get to the inside... watched a lock-smith do it to a safe purchased at an estate-auction for the purchaser on site... took less time that LPL with the circular saw.
@@heroslippy6666 For many uses, "fireproof" is defined in code, usually fulfilling its designed for a certain amount of time with a certain temperature fire without additional oxidants added. It does not mean impossible, and can at times even mean ablative. Just because you could squirt some ClF3 on it and get it to burn, doesn't mean it isn't going to be considered fireproof. I haven't had to get things certified as bulletproof or ensure that an assembly is so, but I would guess that it has a similar codified definition somewhere.
@@scottashe984 on the other hand they advertise them saying it's a "solid steel construction" which is kind of misleading, because people think that means it's made of "solid steel", where what they mean is "solid construction that involves steel"...
@@ArsyaUtomo If you watch many of these you find Master Locks have notorious issues like being easy to pick despite solid construction or their one "Lock Out, Tag Out" lock that has a relatively pick resistant core but a weak body and shackle.
I literally thought this was made out of plastic by the way it bounced when you turned it, but considering how thin the metal was it might as well be. And of COURSE it's made by Master Lock.
@Nobody Knows right, this type of save is usually kept hidden inside houses to keep important documents. In case of a fire, they can still be retrieved. What needs to be accounted for is how heavy it is to give thief some problem carrying it.
Teknikul Righter Would be much louder. No cheap insulation to deaden sound. Metal definitely thicker then this POS. I have a couple of Stack on's and for the money they're pretty hard to beat for basic security.
Seeing the name Master Lock LLC on a security product is kin, to seeing that Berkshire Hathaway is the owner of the company you're looking to purchase a product from. i.e. Duracell Batteries. I've got old and new versions of American Lock #700's. My how has that product changed, and not for the better.
They claim 1700 deg F for one hour. While most people don't buy these for fire protection, I did make use of it, everything inside was intact after being in a house fire.
In their defense this is fire safe, and not burglar safe. It's primarily meant as a fire proof place to store stuff. It must not be confused with a safe.
Yeah, I think LPL is wrong to claim that the only reason for using a product like this is for theft prevention. But I do agree that using words like "safe" in the context of this is confusing, since "fire safe" sounds like a safe that also offers fire protection.
@@kevinh3979 The same reason you have a lock on anything. Locks exist to restrict access to two groups of people: people who have permission, and people who are prepared to expend enough effort to get around the lock. When you choose the lock, you're choosing how much effort is needed from people who don't have your permission to access the material. Typically, you want to choose a lock that's strong enough that the people you want to keep out will say "Eh, it's not worth all that effort just to get that thing." If your safe contains a million dollars and a signed photo of Albert Einstein, people might go to some pretty extreme lengths to get into it. If it contains five dollars and a signed photo of your high school science teacher, the lock's just there to stop people rummaging through your stuff.
@@raffyc66 A safe is a container for protecting valuables against theft or fire or both. The thing that you're calling a "fireproof filing cabinet" is called a "fire safe". There is nothing misleading _per se_ about a fire safe that provides very little security against theft. However, I think the actual problem here is that the product is called "sentry safe". The word "sentry" implies that this is intended to be a security safe as well as a fire safe, and that does seem misleading.
4estrose Ok. It’s still sold a ‘safe’. And not hard to breach without destroying the contents. No fire, no impact tools, no time or skill req’d. A 30$ saw, 10$ blade, 2 minutes, and voila: breached. Just some noise.
@@fernandotrevinocastro1018 I don't disagree.. but the point was fire resistance. Concrete isn't an approved fireproofing material in and of itself, and I'm sure the fireproofing added is cheaper anyway.
I had a safe similar to this for fire protection and to discourage a nosy house cleaner or guest. It never occurred to me that it would provide security against a determined burglar.
Yeah I have something from this brand as well. I definitely don’t think about keeping valuables in there, just important documents I want protected from fire.
Nothing will.. A circular saw with a metal cutting blade can cut through 1/2 inch plate just as easily. So I'm not sure how this is showing anything special. The main thing is that it's not heavy and can be carried away; and I don't think it has holes to bolt it down.
@@stonemanbytes Nice.. But like I said, you can cut through that same safe if it were 1/2" steel with that same saw and it only takes about 2x or 3x the time.. So only a few minutes.
I understand the idea of having a fire-safe, but if a couple inches of insulating foam is all takes to qualify, wouldn't it just be better to insulate a filing cabinet?????
Yeah, that's probably more accurate although selling it that way may not be as fruitful. If you hid this, or secured it really well in a wall or to the floor it would be a lot more secure.
The thing is, these kinds of safes they market are against burglars who go through your draws and cabinets, snatch what they can of value and take off. This will prevent a quick snatch and grab break in; however, even a higher quality and more durable safe will not stop a prepared thief who knows what they're up against. These safes are based upon the assumption the thief didn't prepare to bring tools beforehand with the expectation of having to breach a safe. In general, it does what it's designed to do.
Exactly. Nobody expects a cheap Walmart safe to slow down anyone determined. It defends against the lazy and opportunistic. This does that and offers fire protection at an affordable price. Your cost is directly proportional to the amount of time and effort needed to defeat your protections.
Or makes it easy! hey its a safe there is everything of value lets grab it and run. Like atleats you need to secure the safe to something for it to properly work. But then again just a custom hiding place and you have the same thing expect fire protections but then again you can add that to your hiding place..... Never saw such a weak safe. That metal part is even thinner then a car panel LOL.
@@SCHIJTERBAAS What it means is your level of protection is proportional to your cost. How long will it take a determined attacker to defeat? The more you spend the higher that time value will be. This safe protects you from fire and people without tools. You want more protection pay for heavier safes and thicker steels.
@@xsynergist You totally right good description of it, spot on mate!! But at it cost what i can find online retialed for : 240 dollars. For that money its then better to build a home made fire resistant custom hiding spot. This "safe" is more a protected fire box then a actually safe in my opinion. This so called safe is just gonna stand out so the thief knows what to grab and the run away. again in my opinion.
My aunt had a cheap sentry safe lockbox with her birth certificate, social security card, backup car key, car title, rainy day fund etc. She was freaking out because she lost her key for it. My cousin picked it up at about chest height and dropped it on the back patio, it sprung right open. She was dumb founded. She had believed it to be top security.
@isiunavailable i think this video shows that it isn't such bs or unbelievable. my parents have a safe from the 1800's, even c4 probably couldn't get into it, as it weighs about 500lbs empty, actual steel, not some dried milk powder. sandwiched between aluminum and plastic. this is really just a fire safe, not a valuables safe.
@@LygerTheCLaw but even the weakest of lock attacks would get it pretty quick, unless it has a more modern door with locking bars and a modern key system or code
spiritual cramp Did you not bother to click the timestamp in that comment where you can clearly see the blade? Or did you just decide being insulting was more fun?
@@spiritualcramp8000 How about I wont speak, German, French and Spanish and you make the world a better place by not speaking my mother tongue anymore. Deal?
@@TakeTurnsGaming For 200$ no one, unless you mean a decent safe to store unimportant cheap stuff. Add a couple of zeros to your prize and you get something decent. Two tings is important for the great safe: 1) As impossible to move as you can afford. 2) Take as long a time to break into as you can afford. If the safe cant be bolted safely to the building would I not go below a ton in weight. And minimum 30 minutes of brutal entry is also a minimum.
It's not a bad product but it's been irresponsibly marketed. In reality it should be marketed as effectively a lockable metal filing cabinet that protects documents from fire and flood.....and I'm not even sure about the flood protection, it might just be against splash (like from firefighter hoses putting out the fire or from water damage from being outside in wet weather conditions but not actually able to be submerged in water for any appreciable length of time.
Exactly my first thought when I saw it. Masterlock is well known for not being any kind of master in the context of locks (they make products that mostly keep out honest people) so it makes sense their Sentry doesn't even sentry.
@@22steve5150 I have one (not this model, but similar) and I agree, it's not a bad product, if you are using it appropriately. For me, I wanted something that would resist a fire so that if my house burned down I'd still likely have my most important documents intact, and would provide more deterrence to theft than leaving things in my dresser drawer. Would I have liked to have something that was also near impenetrable? sure, but I couldn't justify the price difference for a "real" safe for my purposes. I did however bolt it to the concrete floor, and put it in an out of the way place that would be unlikely to be found and opened without spending more time than I hope my alarm system allows a burglar to spend. As for waterproof. The company selling it claims that it is submersible, however I have my doubts. Even more so if you follow their instructions for bolting it down which involve drilling holes for the bolts in the bottom of the unit. That said, I put the important documents in ziploc bags inside it, and I also siliconed the bolts to try to reduce water inflow. For my purpose, I'd happily do it all over again.
Yeh, it's called a honeypot. Amateurs will waste time on the decoy safe in the bedroom or home-office, while the real goodies are hidden in a slick in the basement wall or something.
SentrySafe: **puts "safe" in their name** Also SentrySafe: this isnt a safe oh dear god please dont use our product to store anything our product is made out of recycled soda cans and play doh
The "play-doh" is a hydrated compound that reacts endothermically when exposed to heat, protecting the contents of the safe from being destroyed. If it was made out of solid steel it would just incinerate everything inside it. This safe is not meant to store jewels, firearms, or anything that can be damaged by heat and humidity. It's meant to preserve documents.
![[756] Sentry Safe Cut in Half FAST!](/img/logo.svg){kind=logo}
