I'd say the problem is more the latch design than anything. It looks like you basically have to pinch a slick thin piece of stainless to pull it out, and if they put more of a handle or a loop on it it'd be a lot easier.
Thanks for another great video. I appreciate the way you break things down. I feel like so many build channels just assume the viewer is already a master of everything before they explain anything.
WOW! 1. When you first built the rig I hated the unconventional "pedestal" style dinette but man, it is perfect for everything else your rig needs and does. 2. That fridge is brilliant and top quality. Who else puts the compressor on top to dissipate heat away from the fridge? It is where it should be! 3. At certain camera angles Cara's arm reveals its' bionic features. I always knew she was way too perfect to be a 100% pure carbon based life form. 😃
You did a conversion of the measurements for the cutout so I probably would have just measured it with my standard tape measure. Even if the measurements had come out the same it harkens back to the "measure twice, cut once" rule (which encourages double-checking all measurements requiring a cut). Your fix worked fine but - could have been avoided if you'd measured rather than depend on something in a manual or handout. Looks great, btw. Thanks for sharing this buddy. Safe travels!
@@Everlanders I recently found your channel. I'll have to look for a video describing the utility room (13:15). - Both the electrical grid and the stainless cylinders in back
Just found your channel last night. We are building a camper build based around a Discovery 1 on a Defender 130 chassis. We have the 130l version of thise fridge. The build is in process right now so we have never even turned the fridge on, but we did not like the latch to open it either. Its too narrow and has a slightly sharp edge to it. Just a small detail of course, but something that should be better given the price. Also we only realised the freezer only goes to about -7c or thereabouts, rather than -18c as most overland freezers. So we may have to keep a hold of our ARB 47litre fridge/freezer for ice creams and for keeping food properly frozen. Great video, thanks for sharing it.
Hello you two! Been missing your RU-vid videos, as much as your humor. Good job on building the correct size dinette seat, Or having isotherm engineer that frig. Will always refer to my solider connections as twisty twisty connects. Y’all have a good Halloween be sure to have your helper hand ready on Thursday. Hope to see you at XPO next year. Russ
*ISOTHERM QUESTIONS! PLZ ANSWER! I want to add a 2 story box on a cab chassis. Can you just use wood, or can you use metal to make it custom dimensions. Can you drive 75-85mph safely with a wooden trailer housing 12 people and kids?* I am also trying to do it the cheapest way possible but sturdy. I was thinking shipping container, but i dont know if they do custom dimensions for cheap.
Very smooth operation. Now switch the counter unit to freezer mode and you'll never run out of ice cream or ice for gin and tonic when you get to Africa.
Half the power? They use the exact same compressors! "Today, with our Isotherm refrigeration solutions, we can offer you very quiet and compact compressors thanks to the sole use of automotive validated Secop / Danfoss products." www.webasto-comfort.com/int/comfort-solutions/recreational-vehicle-comfort/fridges/
I work in yachting and the boat that I work on has those for the exterior....it works great.....but opening it up isn't gonna get any easier....it seals really well....Soo if it starts to open up easy u better check that seal
+1 for efficiency. Speaking of, I'm curious why you couldn't just retrofit the truck with enough insulation (Passivhaus-style) so that you don't have to waste energy on an AC to keep the interior cool, especially since you don't have any windows. Given your expertise and skillset, I'm sure it would be possible and much more energy efficient. Also, 5:42 boo for converting to customary units. Buying a millimetre-only (e.g., Fastcap True32) tape measure seems like a much easier proposition than having to convert to and use the clunky customary units.
Nicey nice!! Very cool fridge upgrade! (pun intended!) Thought you would need to strap it down more securely instead of just relying on those few screws to hold the fridge in. Love the way you designed the interior furniture to be so easy to change/repair /upgrade.
Are those circuit breakers at 14:18 the same type that Todea Dacian at Electrodacus uses? If so, where did you buy them from, please. I bought a SBMS40 : ) Also, if you did one. Which video would be the one to watch on the wiring the Utility Room? The "Isotherm Drawer 85" is the one I have been looking at : ) Great Video. Thank you.
very nice build and fridge! kinda surprised you didnt upgrade the fan as you certainly seem to be one for both longevity and higher performance (or lower noise) lol
So the Engle that's built into the counter it is also a freezer correct so if you were going out on a longer say 14 15 days you could keep frozen meat in there
I see you connect the negative to the chassis. Are there any disadvantages in doing that ? I know in aluminum boats it is not advisable because it would cause corrosion. Does it interfere with the car battery system in any way ? Could I still ground the chassis (actual stake in the ground )? Thanks
The disadvantage is that it will cost a lot less running a ground cable to every device and solar panel as the ground all goes through the chassis and aluminum frame. It can not affect the chassis battery... It's like filling a glass of water on the table and wondering if it will affect the other glass of water on the same table. You can stake the ground if it makes you feel better, I never have.
Love the vid its really descriptive. i just bought a fridge and am a little confused on the wiring. was it only positive negative wire coming off the back or did you do some other instillation and wiring off screen?
Cool build. Do you think the way that fridge door is designed that it's going to be a pain getting to your items? The door looks like it will get in the way and you have to reach over it.
If it was up higher, above waist height you'd probably want the swinging door version, but ours is down low, so reaching down into it like a drawer is no problem.
Looking inside the power Box for the FANUC robot looks ever so similar to your power Junction Box for your overland rig... Do you come from a machine build or automation background? It's such a clean install it looks professional... So much so that another technician could quickly diagnose a problem without needing a manual. You guys rock
@@Everlanders Funny, I was wondering the same thing... we should talk sometime. Perfect use-case for a soldered, Western Union wire splice over butt connectors -- and those flag spade connectors really are a pain without the 'special' crimp tool, aren't they?
I am looking for the video you did (I think) where you used a small electronic component ~2"in sq x 3?16"in thick that produces cold by its functioning that is not its intended purpose. Help? Name of the component?
The only component which I could think of is called a "Peltier Cooler", or sometimes called "TEC Thermoelectric Cooler". I don't think I've ever shown them in a video.
Could you tell me what the technical name is for the containment that you use for your wiring I’ve used it on a few pieces of industrial equipment before but can’t remember the name of it for the life of me it would really help many thanks your videos are great been watching you for awhile now
@@Everlanders Thankyou Just been back over a load of your videos as I’ve been collecting parts for my build for about two years now and just brushing up on some of the wise that you have engineered stuff
Now that you've had the fridge for some time, curious if you have any feedback? We were considering the chest fridge but like the idea of this one since it appears to take up less room then a 85L chest model.
It's still working like a champ, no complaints... If you have the layout that would allow for a chest, I would go that route for sure... chest coolers don't lose all their cold every time you open the door, and there's more room for contents because there isn't sliding racks and drawer slides etc... I imagine that our actual food storage volume is probably closer to 70 l after you account for all the internal mechanisms. Unfortunately we just didn't have a good location to permanently mount another chest freezer.
@@Everlandersthanks for the feedback and insight, that helps. The more we've seen and read about it, I think the chest would work better for us. We are still at the design stage so I think we can find a way to make it work.
Does anyone know if the freezer section can be removed for more fridge space? Also, the blue led interior lights are horrendous, at night they are blinding and can’t tell what anything is, anyone been able to change the lights?
Very nice! Same one I am using. I find it does frost up, and needs to be defrosted reasonably often. Then the freezer drawer starts making awful noises when opening and closing its time.... Does your latch rattle? That is my one complaint with it!
I am thinking about getting the same fridge, maybe the 130 size. It’s been a year now for you, any issues, complaints? Or are you happy with your switch?
not worried about centering everything , I mite have elected to offset the unit to one side to increase the storage area on one side, maybe even using your aluminum frame for mounting on one side and raising thee unit mite increase the storage area in the lower front, keeping in mind any requirements for airflow around the unit , but sometimes aesthetics out weigh optimization
Not blowing you off... Just nothing to add, you would have offset it, I wanted it centered with room for other equipment beside it. We agree to disagree.
Great video. I’ve just discovered your channel so I’m catching up. You automate your truck in the same way I do my home pretty much, well done on a great explanation of everything I’ve seen so far. I have two short questions: how is the freezer part holding up? Does it actually freeze low enough? I’m looking at using this in my new build. Lastly what brand of DC breaker do you use for your solar inputs? I can’t find much here in the UK so open to recommendations. Ok so three questions. Cheers, Dave.
The isotherm freezer is working great, no problems, however our primary freezer is on the other side in the counter as I'm sure you found by now, this one is used for small things like ice cubes and such.
I use 10 gauge because I had it available and it was only 1 meter to the batteries. The wire gauge required will depend on the distance the wire needs to run, this is all provided in the manual.
Too bad the gremlins ate your soldering video, because we all know by now how fond you are of soldering, and from the solar controller video how freakishly good you are at it! I was wondering if you will now set the Engel up as a freezer, given the larger volume of fridge space you have now. Also, lots of room in your “water closet”! Be well, and another cool video. (See what I did there?)
One of the best values of having a drawer (horizontal) refrigerator as opposed to a vertical door refrigerator is that the later DOES allow the cold air to fall on the floor as soon as you open it. That advantage is lost when the drawer is merely a basket. Clearly, the maker WANTS the fridge to work harder so it will break down sooner. It's called the moral deprivation of planned obsolescence.
I don't get the design of your fridge, it doesn't have a swinging door for ease of access but a pull out door where the front actually hinders it and it doesn't prevent the cold air from falling out of it like a chest would....With the amount of lithium you have you could run a normal and affordable fridge for a month without solar.
@@Everlanders I built a custom fridge..and put the compressor UNDER the bus, you don't need the heat inside during the summer when cooling is important. Just like a minisplit a/c does. In fact, spilling cold into the bus is OK, not a bad thing in the summer heat. Could build you a custom one however you need it.
Exactly, that would have been perfect. But as we are heading south through Guatemala now, it might be a little too late to make these changes. I investigated having refrigeration shops relocate my compressors outside, but I couldn't get anyone to do it. there are refrigeration shops down here too of course, and they seem more willing to help get whatever you need done, done.
If the handle is the plastic version (not metal), I’m sorry to report it will crack and fail completely, eventually. I am on my third handle. Isotherm refuses to upgrade the quality of plastic they use. Instead, they advise being ever more gentle with it, even going so far as to advise I open my fridge delicately, with two hands. Huge bummer when it breaks in Baja, and they refuse to ship a replacement internationally. I will eventually 3D-Print a better quality unit with my own $.
5'40'' Still doing math? Why don't you just buy a meter tape? Easier and faster work and no risk of errors. The USA is the only Country in the world (Except for Burma and another one) still using miles, yard, feet, inches, fingernails... rather than the meter. Just the meter, with no need of any conversion feet-inches and so on. NASA switched to the SI, but the people not yet. By the way, I like your videos! So easy and nice to watch. Thank you!
Because I was in America, borrowing a measure tape from an American, buying a second tape measure cost money, math is free. Thanks for all your kind comments.
