Wow, I literally replaced my matrix XRS oil pan yesterday. This is a trip lol. It was dented and I put in the moroso pan for the baffling. Toyota FIPG ftw. I replaced my e36 328i OEM cork gasket more times than I can remember. Finally tried using FIPG only and it's leak free since 2018!
Interestingly enough I hadn't actually known about FIPG until reading your comment and googling it, I wish I knew about this way earlier! (Although maybe I just don't do enough research.) But thank you! That stuff looks like it would seal much better than the off-the-shelf RTV!
@@WillChangFIPG (formed in place gasket) is Toyota's magic. Never use gaskets on Toyota pans. Always fipg. Any Toyota tech has tubes upon tubes in his box lol
Incase you didn’t know, save a quart bottle and cut it in half and use the side with the spout and screw out in the oil fill hole. Makes a nice funnel.
I've actually got a cut in half quart bottle on my shelf, even though now I've learned what the correct way of pouring oil was I still spilled anyway lol so I'll still use my makeshift bottle funnel going forward, works great for every oil change I've done with it!
You have to be very careful about using cork kind of gaskets. Right now ive beeing using it in my 2zz four about 2 years but at the begining i lost a lot of oil and i almost kill the engine due a big unexpected oil leak. You need to retorque your oil pan bolts in this kind of gaskets after an engine warming up and recheck and retorque every often. A mechanic told me that this kind of gaskets were very common in older cars and there is a product that i forgotten the name that you apply to them and helps avoid oil leaks.
Will creo que si no vistes fisuras en el RVT que estaba puesto a lo mejor botaba por alguna conexión... es lo que pienso, en cuanto a la junta si es de buena calidad no creo que bote pero se que habrán comentarios encontrados en cuanto a ese tema de junta y RVT....es mi opinión, ahh sí... el envase de esa forma respira sin entorpecer el hilo de aceite... Gracias por el video👍👍👍
Replaced my 2zz Vibe's sump four years ago (it was dented, and I was starting to track the car on coilovers and sticky tires) and used Toyota Black FIPG. Let it cure 24 hours, no leaks. I've only heard bad news about the Mahle gaskets, but you seem like you could probably get it to work too. Interested as to how it turns out.
Yeah, I do plan on an update! I've been tuning it myself during my spare time (with plenty of help from hp academy courses) and I'd like to bring it to the dyno soon to get numbers and have a finalized professional tune done
I'm not so sure now, haven't seen any oil under it since fixing the pan. But still keeping my eye out, especially since the timing chain cover leak is pretty much guaranteed to happen if it hasn't already
Hey bro, just a quick question: I noticed you using a metal razor blade to scrape the old RTV off on the mating surface of the oil pan in order to prep the oil pan for when there should be a flat/none scratched up surface to provide little to no leaks once you put the new rtv on, but wouldn’t potentially marring up the surface with the metal razor blade do exactly the opposite of what you’re trying to prevent? I know places sell plastic razor blades that could probably be a better alternative that would do the same work, would that be better? Honest questions
Plastic blade would be better, I agree! I figured even though it was metal it would be okay though as long as I'm not scratching the gasket maker off as hard as I possibly can, just lightly scraping it off shouldn't damage anything. Only reason I did this was because I didn't have a plastic blade on hand, but did have the metal one
Guys I have an '06 corolla manual (1.8J). When going over bumps or bad roads, or simply revving up from a low rpm, I hear some deep knocking sounds. The car works fine and has no performance or efficiency issues even with this problem. Any idea what could be problems to look for? (I wanna have a clear diagnosis before I take it to the mechanic to prevent being scammed) Edit: for clarification, ill look inside the engine bay and troubleshoot stuff without taking it apart.
Could be your axles clicking , turn your wheels all the way one direction and drive slow then do the other way .if the knocking happenes it’s your axles
My first thought is engine/transmission mounts since you said it does it from revving a bit, does your engine have a lot of movement in the engine bay when you rev it?
@@WillChang Not really, the knocking only happens when I rev up from a low rpm (idle to redline). It doesn't happen at high rpms. It's extremely annoying during city driving.
Also any good cheap clutches for this car? My driver (with us for 13 years) was a state transport bus driver. In india, the drivers of these buses have a huge clutchriding problem. The car smells of clutch everytime he drives. The original clutch lasted 8 years, and then in the past 10 years, a total of 4 clutches have been changed. Sure I'll get the driver to stop clutchriding, but the local-brand clutches that have been used lasted far less, so I have to change that too. So any recommendations?
Yk what, never fkn mind. I was changing the oil rn, and the oil stopped, so I opened the oil pan just to find a small spanner left there. Which mechanic didn't notice? Idk.
Bruv! Don't tell me you didnt start the engine after fresh oil change and let it reach optimum running temperature and then check for oil leaks afterwards? Damn it! You don't have to reach temperature on every oil change to check for leaks, but since you changed gasket it's good practice.
I didn't know that was something I should've done, so thank you for telling me! I've just filled it with oil and let it sit until the next time I drive it (checking for leaks before setting off)
I don't know why I didn't mention this in the video but this is what I ended up doing when I put the oil pan back on. Just threaded the studs in maybe 5% of the way and them replaced them with bolts once all the others were in
Are they? I'll have to double check, I thought for sure I mounted them with the rotation symbol facing the correct way, feeling quite silly if that isn't the case!
I've been street tuning it during my spare time, it's been quite the learning experience so far! I'd like to bring it to the dyno soon and at minimum get numbers on what it's making, but of course ideally have a professional finalize the tune
That's because i want to use up these winter tires first since I put them on my old steelie wheels from the turbo Corolla, after that I'll get winters on the XRS alloys (if I even continue to use this car in winter)
So I have a 2005 corolla xrs and stripped my oil pressure switch sensor and it leaks a bit even after rethreading anyone have a solution or a method to maybe fix this (it’s the sensor above the oil filter )
Maybe use a thread sealant like this? www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEOP0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 I've used this stuff myself with good results, may be worth a try
You can do a shitty job using a gasket and it will still seal but have to do a perfect job using just RTV for it to seal. Beign lazy id rather use a gasket if i have to drop the pan.
Old chinese proverb never take short cut and use rtv take a break will panda Express orange chicken and broccoli and beef and chow main and fried rice the year of the dragon
