Thanks for the content! Glad to see people still messing with B series. I have b18c jdm and 1 b18a1 usdm non vtec and am alway happy to see young generations wrenching on old motors
I've found the B series to still be very popular, and I have had a great time working on this one. This is my first opportunity to mess with one. Thanks for the comment!
ARP head studs/nuts torque to 80 lbs ft. The spec you used is for OEM bolts. Built quite a few and no problems. Currently running 20 lbs of boost with no lifting. Just some info for ya.
Tip on installing the headstud washers.. slide them over a long phillips screwdriver, hold finger on washer until tip of screwdriver is on top of stud and release. *When you Torque the head bolts and it goes Green/Beeps/Clicks..STOP *Spray brake parts cleaner on head and block surface before HG install. *Don't* spray anything on MLS head gaskets and be careful not to drop the head onto the block, they're a crush once gasket. ⭐ Congratulations on your first motor assembly ✌️
Take a look at Burton racing or BTO (better tuning option) coil on plug it's ur absolute best reliability mod especially with an aftermarket distributor ask me how I know lol I absolutely love my b series I've got 4 currently I will say the only other thing is make sure to get a newer ecu like link or haltech or fuel tech bc even after going through a 23yr plus stock ecu it can give u issues like loosing the tune spots in the tune u can't fix.
I have had tons of bad experience with aftermarket dizzys on multiple different engines, I feel you there. As for ECU I agree unfortunately. The old ones just seen to die or degree overtime. I'm planning to run a hondata I have and just pray it didn't break
@@evolvinginterests so the BTO cop kit is 200$ without coils and the burton-racing cop kit is 335$ coils are 90$ or under so you should move that direction after you get it in the car as for tuning the hondata will be fine just be prepared for odd tune issues ect I've only recently gone to a stand alone simply bc of the safety features that can be used to help from destroying your hard work like failling wide bands and coolant temp sensors ect while also allowing you to utilize multiple engines and combos ect but I get it 1000 to 2000 for an ecu seems like a big deal and it is but definitely something to consider in your future again once it's running ect anyway love to see the build bud excited for the rest to come
Your fine on head stud. I have done the same thing on all 3 B series I builds head bolts . Same on the ford 3.7 cyclone I just built for my 12 Mustang. Great video looking forward to hearing it run
I figured it wouldn't be a big deal because I wasn't really putting too much load on them. I'm trying to get it back in the car and ready to go within the next month!
Sorry for being late, here is a forum post with a picture a few replies down on the hole that needs plugged. honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/ls-vtec-help-3047946/
Your not suppoded to use yhere lube on the bottom ofvthe headstud it can crack your block only supposed to use it if the stud holes are in thr water jacket's
I don't remember off the top of my head but if you Google the engine you're doing and the procedure there will be a good post or website on how and what measurements
I'm sorry.....but I'd really like to know who gave you a mechanic certificate.as soon as I see that freaking orange can of blown head gasket in a bottle I'd be taking my car somewhere else.holy shit😂
Bice video I'm in the same process but using boost it's kind off tricky but the best way to do engine its doing notes and videos you got it bro the second one its more easy 👍 👌🫱🙏✍️🧠💪
