Good diagnostic. Soldering......... Solder is the strongest form of welding. The reason you don't see solder joints in a factory wire harness is COST/TIME to produce the harness. A good soldered joint can not be pulled apart unless the wire is broken. Crimp does work, but has drawbacka such as pressure used to clamp to wire & intrusion of moisture. Solder will not corrode unless you use cheap (china) alloy solder. As for the factory electrically welding the wires in a splice, they WILL & DO corrode, seen it many times. 55 Years of experience with automotive electrical systems.
That’s how you know you’re well seasoned mechanic at Toyota we would jump TE1 to E1 if my memory serves me correctly. This May marks my 40th year as a mechanic, it’s had it’s ups and downs but it’s allowed me to provide for my family , own a nice home on the central coast of California and believe it or not stay married for 42 years (maybe because she’s never had to pay for auto repairs). I really enjoy the videos and even after all these years I still am learning everyday. 👍🏽 and yes my parents told me that at a very early age I would identify cars on the road especially Porsche and VW in the 60s.
Ah yes. Pre OBD I & II. People complain about OBDII but really, it's an amazing diagnostic "agreement" among automakers that has helped both professional and home mechanics immeasurably!
Yes sir! No solder! Solder makes a good connection but it will break from vibration no matter how good you make the joint. People complain about crimp connectors are the ones who do not use the correct tooling to make a goos crimp.
Nice truck let me know if he work like to sell it. Qustion I put a motor in a 98 3500 chevy. I had to put on a batterey switch on it or it drains it.over night. The motor only has 76,xxx miles
I loved your story about being "into cars." Me too! I can still identify cars by their headlights at night -- as long as they were built pre 2010 or so! I somehow ended up at GM (Engineering) and then Ford (Finance) where I worked until I retired in 2017.
Note to self: The coolant temperature sensor is sometimes tapered (meaning the threads are slanted) so you don't have to put much torque on there to tighten it down, otherwise if you do, you might crack whatever part of the engine that the sensor is attached to. Also, there may be two coolant temperature sensors. A one wire temperature sensor, that tells the instrument cluster what the coolant temperature is, and a two wire sensor elsewhere, that tells the PCM or engines computer what the temperature is. If there is a problem with the two wire sensor and not a problem with the one wire sensor, then your gauge can tell you the correct temperature even though the engine's computer sees a reading that is incorrect and causing problems... Namely, if the engine's computer sees that the coolants temperature is in the negatives or very low, it will add more fuel to compensate for starting up the engine and for running the engine. Cold temperatures = a rich condition until the sensor sees warmth.
I know what you mean about that learning deficit I couldn’t remember that stuff either after I left class. I was self taught completely and got along fine and at 72 I still do my own wrenching on my vehicles. Great video Kenny I always learn something from your videos.
Excellent job . Super nice truck. The Ford Rangers from the 1990`s are notorious for temp sensor problems and driveability issues too. A bad shop would have shot the parts cannon at this one. Thanks Kenny.
If you ever find the need to clean corroded conectors or top can use CLR cheap to buy and very effective .Just get a sipplot bag and fill enough to cover the part and tie the top leave for half to a hour it will shine the connection beyond belief.
Interesting. I had a case on an 82' Corvette. Previously, a heater hose burst and so coolant sprayed all over the engine compartment. That was cleaned up but, once it warmed up, it would shut off. I troubleshot it and low and behold, some of the coolant got into the trottle position sensor. Once that was cleaned up there was no problem.
You should be able to get the wiring harness end from a parts store. We routinely replaced them when I worked at a Saturn dealer (especially on the 1998 model year).
Appreciate your videos Kenny, I like your common sense approach and your overall demeanor when approaching issues and your ability to break things down!! Thanks again👌
I have this same truck and had the same problem a few years back. I was out of town when it broke down and the dealer replaced the coolant sensor. a month later, same problem appeared so I replaced it with a NAPA sensor. Been good to go since.
Now Kenny, don't feel badly about not having a code reader for a 1988 model. I recently called a mobile mechanic to ask him if he would come over and see why my 1978 Dodge D300 won't start (darned if I can figure it out!!), and he said he would bring his code reader over to figure it out. When I told him my car is way, way before fuel injection and the ignition circuit is analog, not digital, he didn't understand what I was talking about.
That CTS connectors' family is Metripak 150. The shell is specifically keyed for that sensor but the terminals are generic family terminals. I usually extract corroded terminals from serviceable shells and crimp on replacements. If the shell is broken or the seal is damaged you can find the replacement connector shell part number in the GM wiring diagrams. The T400 chassis is, I believe, the last that GM actually put the connector part numbers in the wiring diagrams. Most of these connectors are still manufactured by Aptive who took over from Delphi. They're available from the usual suspects... Mouser, Del city, Etc. NAPA used to sell Delphi terminals and connectors but it's been a long long time since I bought connectors or terminals from NAPA. I don't have parts vehicles and I'm not much on splicing wires when I don't have to. The individual Parts (connectors, wire seals, and shells) are generally cheaper than service pigtails or used parts too. I'm not so foolish as to assume that my way is the only way it's just the way I prefer to do it.
Our local NAPA usually wants an arm and a leg for a replacement connector. A trip to the local salvage yard typically provides what is needed plus its significantly cheaper. I have purchased some replacement connectors from Rock Auto that have been reasonably priced compared to NAPA.
@@shadymaint1 That was my reason to stop buying connectors and terminals from NAPA. If they still carry them and you can't afford to wait a week for terminals and/or connectors from online sources they may still be a resource. An expensive one... but a resource. When you know what the connector family name is you can generally find terminals and the plastic shells that are still in production. Lots of terminals are available for obsolete connector shells Pak Con GM fuse panel accessory power tap connectors come to mind. I have 3D printed some of those. The fact that you can find connectors that are no longer produced at salvage yards is the main reason I make a concerted effort not to be a dick and break s*** and not just drop stuff on the ground. Someone else might want that part. Mouser Electronics has most of the Delphi connectors including the really strange stuff in the brand new vehicles. They carry most of the Aptiv ( formerly Delphi ) connector families that you find on GM and many other manufacturers vehicles not to mention Deutsch, Canon, AMP, and a bunch of others.
greetings from Canada up here in the Carriboo - I must say Ken that your vids really show the old school thinking - in that Learn by doing is what and how I learned from 4-H which was our motto. As you said that is how you learned was having in hand experience. On hand experience is how any one can learn if they want to learn, Like my old friend Geoff Silcock said - ya got to get your hands dirty and get into it - meaning fixing what needs to be fixed. I'm kind of sensing that new mechanics today don't have that skill where troubleshooting like your other video about that Dodge ram with the restricted rpm and no shop could figure that on out...? Throwing parts is easy but its the theorizing and putting the facts together to come up with a solution - basic problem solving - the next generation doesn't have. I'll say this -{ You are a great credit to the Repair industry } You should be a teacher to youth. I sure enjoy your video's / as Eric O would say - who's from South main Auto / If I can do it - You can do it. Keep on sharing Cheers.
Yeah, if you had to scanner going to data look at your coolant temperature switch and if you seen -40°, you know the coolant temperature switches defective. I don’t know why he doesn’t because the newer scanners snap on when you first get home they come with adapters for 88 and belowand they come with the adapter so it will fit the OBD two and the other connector and you could go down to the 80s models but maybe the scanner he got didn’t have that kit available. It was only one connector.
You can still buy them. I have one I bought back in the late '80s in the bottom of one of my top centre toolbox drawers. OTC 7739 is the key shaped jumper... or just use a thin wire like he did. A short wire with two male Metripak 280 terminals crimped onto it would work too if the bare wire bothers your OCD. ;-)
Note to self: A rich condition can cause gasoline to get past the piston rings in some cases, which in turn can cause washing of the cylinder head and other components where the gasoline has migrated to, which necessitates probably changing the oil.
That generation EFI assumed -40 deg if the sensor was open circuit. If you had plugged in the new sensor before you installed you would be able to see if that fixed it. You might not have needed to change the plug. You also could have replaced just the terminals and used the original plug.
I have seen coolent sensor leak and force coolent through wiring harness into ecm fried it bad ground between o2 sensor and manifold can do same thing making engine run rich also distributors caused issues good work
Hey Kenny, started watching your show on Friday night, I live in Mauritius, after some electrical issues with my Mitsubishi L300 van. Really love how you are so knowledgeable on vehicles. Can I ask why no soldering of electrical wires on a car
rare...a trick I already know. I haven't had a single OBD vehicle that HASN'T had a check engine on, so I learned this trick (and the chrysler key cheat) early.
Probably wouldn't hurt to put a new set of plugs on it if running rich from a stuck open loop condition caused it to die. I get the feeling there's more wrong here, even at a stuck open loop condition, that ECM shouldn't enrich fuel no more than about 18 to 1 ratio on cold starts... that's not enough to kill a engine if it's in good condition. I'd also change the plug wires unless they're fairly new Delco wires. You only leaned it out on a closed loop condition, it will still be enriched on cold starts. Plugs and wires is what I'd be checking out if it were me. That sensor should not make the engine die out even though it was obviously shot... but hey that's just me talkin.
Nowhere in the car is used soldering. That car was put together by machines which im not. So when fixing i will use soldering because is much better than my crimping. I know my limits.
don't know how many they make i bought on ebay a OBD1 to OBD2 adapter for 1994 ram and one for the older chevys and can use my snapon scanner easily on most OBD1 systems
I have the '88 5.0L c1500 with a lean code. Starts and runs great then stalls out after it warms up (vapor lock???). New fuel pump and filter, ignition module, iac, distributor cap and rotor button, plugs, wires, temp sensor, thermostat, alternator, valve cover gaskets, and pcv valve. Parts cannon has been reloaded with new O2 sensor (waiting to pull trigger). Every part made it better, but not 100%. Not sure if related to lean and stall, but no heat, and thermostat may be a bad part because not coming up to full operating temperature ( remember it stalls when warmed up). No coolant leaks and oil is clean and clear. Any ideas on what I'm missing?
I love my 1991 GMC 1500 short box 2x4, with the 5.7 it runs on propane and gasoline , Ill keep that old girl because there no payments and plenty of parts for the old sow , I did restore it 2 years ago ,im 70 years old and love the old school trucks and cars , I still enjoy wrenching on it at my pace . good to see them like a rock trucks on the road , this is what my 91 GMC looks like now . ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--BDUuHcDqW4.html
