Well it appears you still have issues The kickout you installed is actually a Damm since it’s at a 90 and not at a 45 degree. 2 caulking where the cut was made not soldered ( or not bent without citing metal bisecting bends 3 per code shouldn’t you have used minimum 26 gage metal for the kickout and step flashing Please let me know if I am wrong
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uEOJ8oVdHAQ.html If you'd like 'one on one' training on proper roof flashing, I'd be more than happy to assist you in furthering your career as a roofing specialist. Thanks for the comment.
Outstanding job! I think the only thing that could have made it even more bulletproof... Would have been to cut the house wrap, tape the top of the step flashing to the OSB sheathing, And then mechanically layer the house wrap on top of the tape and step flashing... If the tape ever lost its stickiness, And separated from the tyvek, you could have a slight challenge... But if you apply the tape to The OSB and then layer the house wrap over it, even if the tape peels off the OSB, the mechanical layers will keep the water moving to the outside. The chances of the tape failing is pretty low... But it's one more point of failure that we have the ability to eliminate If we are so inclined... Great work!! Looking forward to more videos!
Love love loved this video! Thank you so much for posting. A lot of people talk about these kickouts but not a lot of people show how you should do it all the way from start to finish. As a homeowner I really appreciate it because I'm getting some water damage and this will help really show me what I should be looking for when it gets replaced.
Thanks for the video. Get yourself a go pro and record the whole process. It would help show start to end and I'm certain give you better exposure on your vids. Appreciate the video again!
Awesome video! You do good work! love the “It’s function is not here” comment. My hillbilly translation is “This is shit” lol 😂 When I was working outside the guy behind me his wife asked him “What’s wrong with him and all that cussing?” He’s a retired electrician and he replied “Oh, he’s just a pipefitter, they’re all like that.” 😂😂😂😂 I can’t help it
Yeah, I try and keep the swearing to a BEAR [(bare 😄) Yogibeer] minimum on my videos. In reality, I don't go 5 minutes without using several of my favorite cuss 😠😡😤😬🤬 words. Thanks for the comment, and have a Bueno (good) week. Lol
I have maybe 2 wood and 1 vinyl siding areas where roofing meets siding - no kickouts. How much did this type of fix cost? One of the wood siding interfaces is rotting from previous roofer or homeowner hack with tons of caulk. The vinyl siding interface is a new leak after a roof replacement.
For a repair by a competent contractor, the low end will be $200 for an easy fix. If you add rotten wood to the equation it will be no less than $500 for simple wood rot repair. $2000 and up for structural repairs
@@highqualityhomemaintenance7565 thanks, i fixed some of my typos. Since the whole roof is new, I'll see what i can get fixed with the warranty. I didn't get any feedback of problems found except for a loose piece of fascia from before the job.
@Wood Stream Ok. After your edit, I will add one more comment. The new leak after a new roof install is probably a damaged piece of step flashing. It probably got stabbed by a pry bar during the shingle removal. This happens regularly.
Good job man. Ima try with mine as well. Thanks for the videos ! But I don’t think u should put the j flashing under the start stripe or felt paper because some water will go onto the roof. Best to put above the start strip.
I could very well be wrong, but this is my process. On top of the sheeting the first thing laid is the synthetic felt, then the kickout flashing, then the starter strip, then the first step flashing laid all the way into the corner of the kickout, then the first shingle, then alternating step flashing and shingles. I'm always looking for a better practice. Stay safe, SoulRage.
