Step Flashing where a roof meets a wall 

On this small of a roof, I did t think it would make much of a difference. Do you have a video on the topic? I would be interested in watching it.

should put ice shield on intersection first, then step flashing, then wrap

there's always a better way to do something. if this was just a reroof r u suppose to cut open the house wrap to put step flashing under???

Yes ! ​@@huhwhatomg

@@huhwhatomgyes, cut open the house wrap - that ideally would happen *before* the roof felt wrapped up the side wall, in which case the roof felt would attach on the sidewall behind the overlapping house wrap. On this job with the roof felt already stapled on top of the house wrap, I would simply slit open the house wrap just above the roof felt, and attach a 8-12” wide strip of water shield, roofing felt or house wrap behind the housewrap, positioned so as to shed any water running behind the siding out over the step flashing.

Thank you

You’re welcome 😊

Thanks so much, I appreciate it

Glad it helped!

Yes, it’s difficult , but possible

awesome! start recording and send me a link when you get a video up, I look forward to seeing your great work!

I didn't put the kickout on, because I was going to make a separate video about that. I haven't made that video yet, sorry about that.

Your absolutely correct, I was going to make a separate video on kick out and didn’t get it filmed. I will need to revisit it next spring, thanks for the reminder

@@mr.kongable you do a great job at explaining things. I didn’t mean that in a condescending way. It just seems to be the top thing I have been complaining about lately. It’s just not common to see a lot of people do it

I don’t have any experience with stucco, I’m sorry I can’t be any help

It all depends on the weather it is exposed to, but I'd get it covered up as soon as you could and not depend on the roof felt

That is why the use of a self adhering underlayment membrane is now required by code for eave and gable roof edges.

it happened later, not in the video.

I really don’t have much experience with stucco, I’m sorry I can’t be much help

It’s getting break metal facia. The siders will slide it up between sub facia and drip edge

Right on!

I don't have the answer but similar situation. Just had fascia replacement but I don't believe any flashings were put on. Therefore. I have a leak getting bigger which is going to cause the same damage all over again. My roofer claims the damage is caused by leak in neighbors adjoining roof. If flashing was installed wouldn't that stop the water from trickling down my fascia? Please advise next step. I don't want to have to pay someone else to do the same repair job. Yf@email.com

I would say to re-roof it and install step flashing. My guess is that there isn't anything there and that allows the water to freely come into the house

If u must caulk, use loctite or vulcum ,I think they're called.

I’ll look forward to your video on the topic

Chisam was a tough man! Just kidding I knew an old roofer that would carry a bundle of shingles with one hand. He was a beast of a man

You can do either, I've done it both ways, but putting the drip edge on top of the felt keeps the felt from getting blown up and having any rain or snow get underneath it.

I feel like this guy had a general idea of how to roof at the time and wanted to be a RU-vidr. Diy’ers beware.

Ok

@@mr.kongable that was a question

@@Brandon-no3vc not in the summer when it’s hot and the shingles are warm. But you can if you want, depends on what you like and what you’ve been taught for your area. I’m in Iowa, so it doesn’t get much hotter for the temp I put them on. If it would have been in the 40’s and the shingles were cold, I would have allowed for expansion. Hope this helps

@@mr.kongable shingles expand and contract?

@@Brandon-no3vc they can a little bit

It is actually stainless steel flashing, I don't use aluminum for flashing, it's not as tough as stainless steel

You will want to get some step flashing on that roof to stop those leaks

Cause I was rushing, I should have put the paper on top, thanks for watching

I agree, gloves are a much needed part of a persons tool kit.

Yeah, I find I see a lot of weirdness when I watch my own videos. Thanks for the view.

I believe it's code to put it over and just makes sense too.

Actually the use of tar -paper would be the wrong thing to use.It should have been a self adhering underlayment membrane and it should have returned and gone up the wall. The 2x framing behind the fascia board should have also been flashed back to the wall.

@@alm7707 If you're referring to putting the drip edge on the eve end over the top of the tar paper, you are incorrect. It's common sense to put the tar paper over the drop edge on the eves and is actually code and manufacturers recommendation that drip edge goes underneath the underlayment on the EVE (bottom) edge.. that way water that gets beneath the shingles will flow down and over the edge of your roof. If you put the drip edge over the tar paper, the water will run between that drip edge and the paper and pool up, causing rot.

@@gary24752 well, I don't know about using tar-paper as being wrong necessarily... it's not code that you have to only use a self-adhering underlayment like ice barrier. Would I have used it myself personally? Sure... but that's besides the point. I only used tar-paper on my garage, top to bottom.. no ice barrier, as it would be a waste. Have 2-5/8 inch drip edge.. and with the starter strip, first row of shingles, and a small bead of roofing cement (tar in a tube and cheaper than a roll of ice barrier) between the tar paper and one of the channels of the drip edge.. plus the pitch of my roof on the garage.. nothing is blowing water up my roof's "skirt". Dwelling on the other hand.. will be using ice barrier... know people who did the entire roof with it and waster their money because this winter, they still have water buildup and ice hanging lol.

@@craigwalters7293 Actually most shingle manufacturers recommend the ice and watershield to extend down and over the edge behind the drip, then the drip edge, then flashing tape. This prevents any backup along the edge should you have gutters installed.

That was another video that never made it it to uploading

​@mr.kongable how was it in another video when it should be the second step flashing that goes in?

Could you explain what you mean about the kick out?

My 1st question also. Its flashing installed at the bottom corse to "kick" water out and away from the wall. I'm also concerned that you don't know what it is...

@@tysonlenz7455 I've never heard it called kickout, i've always heard it called overhang

Basically kick out is cutting the bottom step flashing at an angle away from the roof to kick out water away from the wall to the gutter!

Agreed, I didn't get the kickout video filmed, I need to put a caveat on this video to checkout how to do kickout. Thanks

I look forward to your video on the topic

@@mr.kongable so you have your ice and water stuck to your tyvec?

@@Brandon-no3vc I don't use Ice and Water on a small roof like this since no part of it is over heated space. Ice and Water Dam shield is meant to be used where an overhang is unheated space and the roof transitions to being over a heated space like an attic. The ice dam forms where melted water from the area over the heated attic space melts and goes down hill to the unheated space over the soffit and then refreezes. It is unnecessary on a small roof like this that is purely decorative.

@@mr.kongable isn't it heated inside that wall? Wouldn't ice and watter just be more protection even tho none of its heated? What did you use and how did you dry it in?

@@Brandon-no3vc I used regular roofing felt since the roof was all over a non heated space . Yes, the wall is heated but there isn’t usually sheets of ice that are on a vertical wall space.

Thanks for the advice Larry, I look forward to seeing your video on the topic

@@mr.kongable I don't do shingles anymore. I started shingeling before you were born. 2nd generation with 3 brother's all in the same trade.

I’m not sure what you mean

I look forward to seeing your video on the topic

@@mr.kongable i don't have time to make videos like all you guys . But i will tell you that I use coil stock not builders foil for flashing. Cheap short cut

I'm pretty sure I said in the video that you don't nail the step flashing to the roof but to the wall only, but I look forward to seeing your video on the topic. I'm always interested to hear how the pros do it.

I'm ripping my hair out at this ridiculous comment... he very specifically explained NOT to nail it to the deck, only the wall. Maybe actually watch the video before criticizing. SMH

I'm not a Roofer, just a General Contractor. The installation instructions from GAF say two nails in the flashing on the deck and no nails on the wall. But what do they know...they just make the shingles.

Thanks for this very helpful video Sir. I did notice that Owens Corning own instructions and this video (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VDTZKST5PNA.html) require nailing step flashing to the roof not to the wall. I gotta say, I like your idea better because who wants more holes in the roof BUT maybe the step flashing can lift if not nailed to roof? Not sure. Either way, fabulous effort and so helpful Sir!

@@mr.kongable Think about it. If you nail you step flashing to the wall and the roof moves any guesses as to what is going to tear and end up leaking? The step flashing needs to be nailed to the deck which needs to move independently from the wall. The vertical leg of the step flashing will remain tight to the sheathing even if the roof moves. I would also suggest running your ice and watershield up the wall a minimum of 18 inches to guard against leaks from snow drift.