Jack Neary: Brass prep for Benchrest 

You bet!

Different capacity with same weight is really easy to explain. As he said case head can be thicker, and also inconsistent resizing can also change the internal volume.

How did you "micro stamped" your cases ?

@@br4713 Microstamp USA used to have a 1mm 0-9 set for $125 USD which I bought 2 years ago. Not sure if they still make them though. Because I pin wash, I needed something to ID the cases that wouldn't otherwise wear or wash off.

They are no longer made/available.

Based on the reamer used to cut your chamber. The reamer print will tell you.

@@jima1325 no reamer.. mine is a factory rifle. I can measure the chamber, but then? How long should I trim the case? What's the golden rule to follow? I do not need to follow strictly SAAMI, since I reload for my rifle only, so I don't need to let the cartridge be compatible with other rifles other than mine. I'd go with the chamber dimension - 2/1000", so that I can minimize any carbon ring. does this make sense? Thanks

Erik has discussed this on his earlier videos, go into his videos and there I multiple videos on it.

This is what I gleaned from this interview: The neck turning is for thinning out the neck's brass thickness, not length, apparently they like loose fitting necks, probably to allow the bullet to center itself in the bore and not the case as Benchrest shooters usually seat bullets all the way to the lands with no jump. The rifles he is using have been reamed shorter/tighter than a factory rifle so that he has to bump the shoulder back on new brass until it just allows the bolt to close for a tight fit, the only way to do this with a factory rifle is to fire form it to the chamber then barely bump it back when you resize to allow the bolt to close, most people bump .002 or so, Benchrest shooters are more precise. He only trims the brass after 3 or so firings but did not explain what length he trimmed to, would depend on your specific caliber.

@@mamiz69 if yours is factory you could just pull the standard SAAMI reamer print and subtract .015 for trim length if it’s not given. That’s what I’ve been doing for over 30 years without issue whether Factory or one of the Reamers that I have designed for myself. Years ago I think I saw a tool that somebody made for determining this, but as long as you are not letting your cases grow to the point where there’s interference, it’s not an issue as long as they are all the same length.

Typically there's freebore in the barrel between the end of the area where the brass case neck sits and where the rifling begins. Google search some cut away images or watch Ultimate Reloders video on headspace that has some cutaways

If you are in a dry climate, you probably don't need a brass dryer. I've found that putting my wet brass on a baking sheet and in the oven (at about 180 degrees} works well.....

I use a food dehydrator. Works great and I already had one. Call it freedom jerky!

@@mattmckenzie1653😊😊😊

Sounds like your new gun has a slightly smaller chamber than the first one.

@@seapierce so I am fairly new to reloading. I have the basic down but need advice on this problem. How would someone remedy this issue. Buy new brass?

Just incrementally screw your sizing die down until you can get the brass to reliably chamber in the new rifle. That will get your brass usable. Once you fire it in the new rifle, you can measure a fired case with a bump gauge and reduce the shoulder measurement .002 and you should be golden.

Well guys I did find the problem . There was some foreign material in the throat of the rifle. Used a bore brush and now I have a gun that chambers perfect.

It would really help to have a neighbor like him. I once had a co-worker I talked him into moving next door to me. Because he was a really good guitar player next thing you know, I was a very good guitar player.

They don’t anneal their brass. They change bushings and shoulder bump to compensate.

If your rifle can really shoot that good, you could win many championships.

Yeah…. I’m calling bogus. It and you may have done it one time. But that always turns into “all day long” on the internet. That would be the same as me saying one of my rifles that I shot 4 different 5 shot groups at a grand with and the groups were recorded as follows : 2.7”, 2.9”, 3.6”, 3.4”, and 7.4” is a sub half moa rifle. Is it? I don’t know. The groups average out to say so, most times at 100 it’s half moa or better. But is it truly that good? For a rifle I have under $2500 in? I’ll never know. Because I’ve not duplicated it since. If you can duplicate those results, with a factory rifle, like you say, then you should be winning trophies left and right. And that’s coming from someone who doesn’t compete and doesn’t care to

Once you get your rifle shooting those tight groups , the fine signs of wind effect become obvious if you honestly call your shots. Most Palma and F Class can make 0.25MOA calls consistently once they understand the flags and mirage signals - unfortunately you need trigger time to do this and be brutally honest about what you screw up in the shot.

Yep but sadly I can’t read wind for shit. So vertically the rifle will shoot great. But minor wind will throw that shot off massively. The point I was trying to make was that the person correcting for wind and pulling the trigger is making far more difference than than the rifle. Sorry for the slow reply this only just came up as a notification on RU-vid.