#jaegerlecoultre #reverso #watchesandwonders @jaegerlecoultre
In 1993, harnessing the legacy of its first tourbillon movement Calibre 170, which was developed for a pocket watch in 1946, JAEGER-LECOULTRE released the Reverso Tourbillon. Not only was it the Manufacture’s first wristwatch tourbillon, it was also the first in a rectangular case and the first with a shaped movement.
The Manufacture’s expertise in tourbillons has grown steadily from that point, with its development of multi-axis tourbillons incorporating a variety of shaped balance springs. Its mastery of this regulating device - which improves timekeeping accuracy by neutralising the effect of gravity on a watch movement - was confirmed in 2009 when JAEGER-LECOULTRE watches took first and second places in the International Chronometry Competition. Today, the expertise continues to expand, with the development of a series of new configurations, the most recent being in Calibre 847.
Uniting a flying tourbillon with the Duoface complication, this ultra-thin hand-wound movement comprises 254 components and measures just 3.9mm thick. To achieve this, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s watchmakers had to completely rethink the tourbillon mechanism to reduce as much height as possible. As well as dispensing with the upper bridge, to which the balance wheel is normally fixed, they replaced the outer tourbillon cage with a ball-bearing system and attached the balance wheel to the centre of the tourbillon. Normally, the hairspring would be attached to the outer tourbillon cage; however, in the absence of such a cage, a new solution was required. Jaeger-LeCoultre invented (and has patented) a unique S-shaped balance spring; one end is attached to a fixed point at the centre of the tourbillon mechanism and the other end fixed to the balance wheel. The S-shape avoids the coils of the spring touching each other and makes the spring perfectly concentric to the tourbillon, which is essential for precision.
Comprising 62 components and weighing a mere 0,455 grams, this highly sophisticated tourbillon is eloquent testimony to the Manufacture’s mastery of this regulating mechanism, as well as its status as one of the very few Manufactures to develop and produce its own hairsprings in-house.
The Duoface concept, a pillar of the Reverso collection since it was introduced in 1994, is a unique expression of the dual time zone complication, displaying local time on the front dial and home time on the reverse. The movement must turn the two sets of hands in opposite directions in order for them to move around their respective dials in the clockwise direction and display the correct time.
Adding to the mechanical elegance of the movement, all settings are controlled through the crown; this not only ensures simplicity of operation for the wearer but also preserves the aesthetic unity of the case.
Two Sides, Two Moods, Two Time Zones
On the wrist, with the front dial visible, the Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon has an elegant yet highly distinctive presence. Capturing the spirit of the early 1930s models, the pared-down aesthetic and signature details of the Reverso Tribute dial exude refinement; the faceted hour indexes are complemented by Dauphine hands and framed by a chemin de fer minute track.
These understated details, together with the subtle glow of the silver sunray-brushed front dial allow the tourbillon to take centre stage. The eye is drawn to its whirling motion, then travels all the way through its intricate structure to the back of the watch case. As the case turns over, it reveals the cradle, where a visually dramatic sunray pattern centres on a mirror-polished disc; the disc is precisely aligned with the tourbillon to reflect light back through the delicate mechanism.
The reverse dial of the watch projects an altogether bolder character, enhanced by partial skeletonisation and glorious decoration, including hand angling of the bridges, all executed in the Manufacture’s Métiers Rares® workshop. The second time zone is indicated by golden hands and indexes on a black sunray-brushed dial, and above the dial, the night and day indicator features an exquisite starry night sky. Gold bridges, a reminder of the 1993 Reverso Tourbillon, are richly textured with Clous de Paris guilloché, and blued screws provide a rich contrast with the gold. The guillochage on the bridges - a delicate and highly skilled operation executed on a 100-year-old hand-operated lathe - represents six hours of meticulous work.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE REVERSO TRIBUTE DUOFACE TOURBILLON
Case: Pink Gold 750/1000 (18 carats)
Dimensions: 45.5 X 27.4 mm; 9.15 mm thick
Calibre: Manually-wound mechanical movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibe 847
Functions: Hours, minutes, second time zone, night & day, tourbillon
Power reserve: 38 hours
Front dial: Silver sunray-brushed
Back dial: Black sunray-brushed Water resistance: 30m
Strap: Black alligator
Reference: Q392242J
#wherethewatchesarethestars
27 сен 2024
