Jaguar XKR project Episode 44 | The votes are counted, so let's drop the rear subframe part one 

That car is getting some serious TLC! I bet the original owner would love to watch this. I would never dream of tackling this on mine, hats off you Simon!

Hi Simon, I also wish you much success in this difficult task. Unfortunately I have no experience with the job, but I will follow this work with interest on your channel. 👍🇬🇧

Hi Simon, Full support for this project from Canada. Some tips. Mark the drive shaft including the bolts. Also mark the parking brake cable. The rear springs may be under some tension so please be safe. If using the original bolts dont torque them to the higher end of the recommended setting as I snapped a bolt costing $100 for a new one from Jaguar. Im also upgrading all bushes to Poly and a brembo upgrade with an adamesh stage 1 &2 Good luck from Canada 🙏🏽

for people doing this that want to keep the exhaust , if you undo or cut the nuts and bolts where the cats connect the exhaust , and release the hangers, the exhaust will lower with the subframe and then you can reach in and undo the nuts a lot easier. the gaskets are the same as a ford Grananda and sierra and are a third of the price of the Jag ones, which have Ford stamped on them as they are a ford parts. Also if you are careful you can actually lower the exhaust without undoing the nuts from the cats but be mindful and have a jack that lowers slowly . I done this to my XKR a few years ago, have to say it was great fun and very rewarding. if i may give you my advice, use epoxy chassis paint from rust buster and gets some phos B , done mine in 2018, sand blast phos B, clean off with chlorx and paint with epoxy with a brush , 6 years later not a single bit of rust has come back. uprated to polybush and its better than new. good luck mate absolutely love you r channel

No going back now mate :) I am hoping to drive my XK8 down your way from Worcester later in the summer!

Hya buddy, I’ve owned my 2004 XKR for about two years, yours sounds really good, John

Fair play to you buddy. I voted remove, just to hear new expletives unknown to me when those bolts wont "lefty loosey".

Good luck buddy 👍🇬🇧💪

Looking forward to watching you remove those nuts Simon 😀

Good luck with this project as always I enjoy your channel. When faced with the same dilemna I elected not to drop the subframes. the main reason being the inordinate cost and headache for a low value car in which I cover 1200 miles per year. I only start on the rusty bolt routine when I have to. I did however go through and inspect very carefully every bush and link and replace anything that was a bit worn. To be honest at 118000 miles my convertible was not very bad. I replaced front shocks springs, and top mounts(twice!!!!) and anti roll bar bushes. I did the front roll bar links but they were in excellent condition and did not need changing. I couldn't find anything to replace on the rear. I have cleaned up and protected all the rust as I am not a concours participant. It is probable the car will go on for another 20 years at my low mileage. Your poll indicates you had already decided to take the subframes off it was just a matter of timing for you. I would have opted for repair as required with the subframes in situ, my decision is based on the low value of these cars. The low value/cost vs enjoyment factor is the best thing about these cars.

Before anything, take off the back springs i.e..the rear suspension. Will made it lighter and less 'stressed' Hello from sunny Toulouse...without sunglasses 😂

Hi Simon, not heard a lot from you recently. Hope all is well. I’ve just removed my A-frame from my 2002 XKR. This can be done quite easily provided all the boats come out and there is no need for extra support for wishbones etc. Biggest problem I had were the two boats at the top of the A-frame go onto the connecting rods they were solid and I eventually had to axle the top of the boat off when that was done. The A-frame came out very easily. Hope you have some success.

Good luck my Son ❤

If you dont already have it try and get hold of the JTIS software as it has a full workshop manual for these cars with all torque setting etc along with a graphical step by step instruction set for each job. I have a copy somewhere I can send on cd if that would help but there are downloads available for free for it as well.

would not it be more cost effective to replace some of these parts with second hand ones

Will you give out the torque settings on each each job Simon.

Are you replacing the rear springs while you are at it?