Welcome to projects in the barn, a channel dedicated to the upkeep and renovation of my year 2000 jaguar XKR, 2011 jaguar XF 3.0 Portfolio, 1999 porsche boxster 986, 1988 VW T25 T3 Vanagon Caravelle, 1993 VW LT31 karmann distance wide, as well as all of my other VW camper builds and other interesting projects. Feel free to ask any questions or comments, good or bad. You can also email me directly at jaguarsinthebarn@gmail.com
All old content for VW camper info can be found on my now dormant youtube channel, vwbusbits
@@projectsinthebarn thanks for replying yea my drivers side lower than the passanger 2 shock autodoc 60 pounds plus postage and thanks to you vid soon sort it
@stephenoakley1583 cheers Stephen, it's great to have seen it and for it be such a straightforward repair. I dare say, somewhere down the line, I will replace the connections as they are undoubtedly worn, but will certainly be good enough for a while yet 😉
I love it when you get an easy fix like that 😃 it off sets the days when you spend 4 hours removing one rusty bolt! Sorry you let the D3 go as I used your video on the coolant bottle change as it was the best one as it showed the two bleed points. Noticed a series Land Rover under some cover as you drove the car, is that yours and going to be more content?
@roberttruman8332 hi Robert, it's great when it's something simple isn't it mate 👍 the series landy is my neighbours, but I have been trying for ages to pry it from him, he's just moved out so I'm still hoping 😀
Hi Simon, I suspect there is a groove at the end of the ball joint bolt. A locking ring probably belongs there. In Germany we call it a "seegering"There definitely needs to be a safety catch on the bolt, otherwise you'll soon have another problem. Glue is not a solution. Please take a look at an exploded view of how Porsche solved the problem. Greetings Udo
@UdoIBress Hi Udo, thanks for your wisdom as ever. My repair was only identifying the cause of the problem and to get me back on the road, a new socket and safety ring have been ordered from porsche so I can do a permanent repair in the future 👍
Hi Simon it's a great pleasure to see you again .Yes, family always has the highest priority, that's right. Now we'll see what happens next...I'm really looking forward to the next videos from the XKR. Stay healthy and send my regards to your family. Greetings, Udo.
@@roberttruman8332 Hi Robert, good to hear from you buddy. The Disco has been moved on to pastures I'm afraid, I just dould not get my head around the extortionate road tax!
Hi Simon, not heard a lot from you recently. Hope all is well. I’ve just removed my A-frame from my 2002 XKR. This can be done quite easily provided all the boats come out and there is no need for extra support for wishbones etc. Biggest problem I had were the two boats at the top of the A-frame go onto the connecting rods they were solid and I eventually had to axle the top of the boat off when that was done. The A-frame came out very easily. Hope you have some success.
Hi William, it's good to hear from you, buddy, and I really appreciate you taking the time to message. It's been a very busy time here lately, school half term and general life getting in the way, so I have not had a chance to get stuck into the Jag yet, but I will be over these next few days when i get a few minutes. It's good to hear about tour experience, so I'm hoping mine goes as smoothly as yours did. Thanks again and speak soon, mate. Simon.
Hi John, good to hear from you, buddy. I can't wait for my XKR to be sorted and on the road. It's going to be a bit of a journey to get there, but it's going to be fun 👍
Hi, I have a 2013 model and since having a new battery fitted often have problems when the car won`t start. I open the boot and wiggle the battery terminal cable for a second and it gets the ignition going. Push button starts the car again and the only issue is that the clock has reset to 00.00. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks 🙂
Hi James, good to hear from you, buddy. Diagnosing an electrical issue can be a bit of a pain. If it wasn't doing it before, then I would be checking the condition of the positive and negative battery leads to ensure they are properly secured. Also, did the garage reset the battery monitor system using the OBD2 port? If I recall correctly, there is the option to reset this using the Jaguar software. This makes sure all of the system monitors and sensors are calibrated to the new battery. I hope this helps, keep me posted 👍
Hi buddy, check out the diagram on this website, its part number 4. Its righting the end of the fuel rail by the looks of it. I hope this helps. parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/aj87977-fuel-pressure-sensor.html
And I almost went to the shop for starter change but my neighbor recommended that if I charge my battery good charge for about 1 hour i going to be fine that's what I did and it did work I start the car and everything is fine now and since I've been using it I don't have any problem
Hi guys Im a bit confused now with my faulty tailgate. It meets all the criteria of a faulty switch (upper tailgate opens from dash lower tailgate opens ok with switch ) After research I went to go change switch & someone had already attempted the repair. Touched the stripped wires together to check latch unlock functionality without switch - nothing. Is there a voltage reading I should expect on the two stripped switch cables? Is there another step before moving onto the lower tailgate solenoid change? Plus if there is nothing happening at my switch not sure how the lower tailgate solenoid change will alleviate issue upper tailgate switch not functioning? Hope this explanation of my situation so far with tailgate makes sense and any help of the ideal next step would be greatly appreciated Thanking in advance
Hi Sean, this is a strange one, buddy. If you are not getting any power at the terminal ends where it meets the switch in the tailgate then there must be a break further along the line, supposing yo8 have ruled out the simple things first like fuses and faulty switches themselves. I'm really not sure where else to check to be totally honest, and I have since sold my Landy on, so I can't even go out and compare mine to yours for you either. I hope you get it sorted, buddy 👍
If you dont already have it try and get hold of the JTIS software as it has a full workshop manual for these cars with all torque setting etc along with a graphical step by step instruction set for each job. I have a copy somewhere I can send on cd if that would help but there are downloads available for free for it as well.
That's some great advice there, Tim, and it's very much appreciated, buddy. I have used parts of it in the past but have not looked for the removal of the rear subframe as yet. I will have a look at it when I am at work tomorrow and see if I can print it off for guidance 🙏
I thought the handbrakes on these cars were drum brakes but I cant see a hole in the disk for rewinding it. Is the XKR different from the XK8 in this respect ?
I see it now at around 17:09. You need to push a straight head screwdriver through the hole and rotate the gear mechanism to loosen off the handbrake so that the disks can come off. If not you risk breaking bits inside and some of those bits are pricey.
Hi Tim, good to hear from you, buddy. I have not got the discs off the car yet, but as far as i know, you back off the internal brake shoes from the discs through the hole in the face of the brake disc. Mine has the hole, but I think it may just have a plug in there, which I will have to remove. At least, that's how I hope its going to go. I'm back on it this weekend after a very busy week or two, so hopefully, we will find out together. Cheers buddy, Simon.
@@projectsinthebarn It should be more than a plug in there. There should be an odd shaped gear that you need to turn to back off the brake shoes. If its anything like mine you will need to back it off a fair bit as a lip will likely have formed that you will need to clear.
@timberry1135 the plug is covering the actual hole to protect it from the elements, this is the plug I meant I will be removing to get to the gear wheel to back off the shoes 👍
Hi Steve, good to hear from you, buddy. This is my 4th boxster, and the 3rd 2.5L variant, the other being the 3.2S model. If you want horsepower and speed, then it might not be the car for you. However, if you want a really easy driving convertible that makes you smile every time you get in the car, then I say go for it. The 2.5L is plenty powerful enough, in my opinion, and cruises along down the road nicely. In terms of fuel, it's a tricky one to answer, as we all use and drive our cars differently. I fill mine with shell premium fuel, which is still pretty expensive, and cost me on average £100 to fill up from empty. Realistically, you will achieve mid 20's mpg just pottering about, and will do much better on a run. I can not accurately tell you my consumption as I still have my gear box in limp mode, so I can not get up into 5th gear. Overall, these are fantastic cars and represent amazing value for money. Just check the history of anyone you are interested in to make sure it has been well looked after. If you like to tinker in the garage, then these are also really easy cars to work on, in the most part. Good luck buddy, Simon.
I’ve only just seen your video and as it was posted 9 months ago I assume it’s all sorted. However, if your battery went flat all sorts of electrical things need resetting including the immobiliser. I bought a cheap version of the jlr sdd software and the mongoose lead for about £70 and was able to fix all sorts of faults on my 2.2 xf 2015. I’ve also programmed a new key as the car only came with one when I bought it. Many people online tell you not to touch the cheap software but I’ve had no problems with it and it’s saved me loads of money in terms of not seeking the services of a dealership.
Hi Mark, good to hear from you buddy. Amazingly, the jag is still sat on my driveway with the same issue! Mine started when it overheated and broke down and has not started since. I have had it running briefly on easy start down the air box, so it's pointing towards a fueling issue, either one of the pumps or similar. I've not got it sorted as yet as there is a whole back ground story on my jag with outstanding finance on it, and I don't want to spend any more on it until that matter is dealt with. One day I will get it sorted! 😃
Hi Simon, I also wish you much success in this difficult task. Unfortunately I have no experience with the job, but I will follow this work with interest on your channel. 👍🇬🇧
for people doing this that want to keep the exhaust , if you undo or cut the nuts and bolts where the cats connect the exhaust , and release the hangers, the exhaust will lower with the subframe and then you can reach in and undo the nuts a lot easier. the gaskets are the same as a ford Grananda and sierra and are a third of the price of the Jag ones, which have Ford stamped on them as they are a ford parts. Also if you are careful you can actually lower the exhaust without undoing the nuts from the cats but be mindful and have a jack that lowers slowly . I done this to my XKR a few years ago, have to say it was great fun and very rewarding. if i may give you my advice, use epoxy chassis paint from rust buster and gets some phos B , done mine in 2018, sand blast phos B, clean off with chlorx and paint with epoxy with a brush , 6 years later not a single bit of rust has come back. uprated to polybush and its better than new. good luck mate absolutely love you r channel
Hi Tiny, Thanks so much for passing on to us your experience of doing this job. It's great to hear that it went well and is still in good order all these years later. I will have a good look at the rust proofing products out there, but the stuff you used is obviously a good choice. Thanks again for your kind words of encouragement, and hopefully, we will chat again soon 😀
That car is getting some serious TLC! I bet the original owner would love to watch this. I would never dream of tackling this on mine, hats off you Simon!
Hi Andrew, its good to hear from you buddy. I think its just worthwhile at this stage to get stuck into it, its something that will need doing in the future anyway, so i may as well bite the bullet now. Keep your fingers crossed for me that it goes smoothly 🙂
Good luck with this project as always I enjoy your channel. When faced with the same dilemna I elected not to drop the subframes. the main reason being the inordinate cost and headache for a low value car in which I cover 1200 miles per year. I only start on the rusty bolt routine when I have to. I did however go through and inspect very carefully every bush and link and replace anything that was a bit worn. To be honest at 118000 miles my convertible was not very bad. I replaced front shocks springs, and top mounts(twice!!!!) and anti roll bar bushes. I did the front roll bar links but they were in excellent condition and did not need changing. I couldn't find anything to replace on the rear. I have cleaned up and protected all the rust as I am not a concours participant. It is probable the car will go on for another 20 years at my low mileage. Your poll indicates you had already decided to take the subframes off it was just a matter of timing for you. I would have opted for repair as required with the subframes in situ, my decision is based on the low value of these cars. The low value/cost vs enjoyment factor is the best thing about these cars.
Hi Steve, good to hear from you mate. I did weigh up both options, especially as you say, is it worth the extra expense and aggro of removing 25 year old rusted in bolts! But I see it as an opportunity and a challenge to myself to see what I can do with the car. I agree with the smiles per mile factor with these cars, in what other vehicle can you have V8 power with little cost to buy 😉
@@projectsinthebarn Fair play to you, the great thing about this hobby is there are no right answers. I am looking forward to seeing you tackle all those rusty bolts😄. It will be great content. As far as I can see there is no other RU-vid content which covers what you are about to do in great detail.
Hi Simon. Really looking forward to watching this restoration project. If it works for you then as the car is already off the road it does seem to make sense to get the whole job done before putting it back on the road 😊
Good morning Peter. That may well be the case, we will assess it all once it is off and checked all of the parts. I'm right up for second hand genuine parts, better quality and cheaper than reproduction 👍
Hi Simon, Full support for this project from Canada. Some tips. Mark the drive shaft including the bolts. Also mark the parking brake cable. The rear springs may be under some tension so please be safe. If using the original bolts dont torque them to the higher end of the recommended setting as I snapped a bolt costing $100 for a new one from Jaguar. Im also upgrading all bushes to Poly and a brembo upgrade with an adamesh stage 1 &2 Good luck from Canada 🙏🏽
Hi Didar, it's good to hear from you, buddy. I really appreciate you taking the time to message me and to pass on your tips for tackling this job. Fingers crossed, it goes well, and there aren't too many broken bolts to deal with 🤞
youtube.com/@pierswebster?si=4_D2es6GCGyz1O20 This may help going to do same myself very best of luck but drop the frame first will help remove suspension
Before anything, take off the back springs i.e..the rear suspension. Will made it lighter and less 'stressed' Hello from sunny Toulouse...without sunglasses 😂
Bonjour Quintin, good to hear from you again, buddy. I am looking to remove as much as I can before I try and drop it down, to make it as light and as safe as possible 🙏
Hi Simon. I've lived so long here I've almost forgotten to speak English ! I've à 1997 coupé which I bought new thats only done80K miles which is immaculate and never used in winter (v hard to write on a french phone !) so hopefully as I said the other day this is all vicarious !
@quintintudor-evans763 brilliant mate, weirdly enough my wife and I would love to move to Northern France for our retirement in 10 short years, so who knows 😉 Love the fact you have owned yours from new 👍
Hello Simon , I'm in total agreement with you , drop the subframes , free the car car from rust it's all job done then and it will give you piece of mind, definitely go for stainless steel exhaust stage 1 and 2 straight through , you won't regret it and the sound is just wow , all the best 👍
Hi Gerard, I appreciate that buddy. The itch is definitely there to just get it on the road, but while I have the time and enthusiasm to do it, i may as well just get into it only the one time and do it properly 👍
