Do you use Auto to get your editing process started, or do you follow a similar recipe for editing your photos? Is there something you feel we have left out?
I usually hit auto to start but have gotten into a routine to bring the sliders back. Janine’s video here is fantastic and I look forward to one day getting out there with you. Learned so much already.
It's possible to find brilliant advice and it's possible to find concise advice but it's vary rare to find the two together. Janine consistently supplies both in the same video. Easily the best Lightroom teacher on RU-vid!
I do a Levels adjustment in Photoshop before making any changes to brightness or contrast. Often what is perceived as a lack of sharpness is actually a lack of contrast. In most outdoor locations subjects will have a green cast from the light reflected off the foliage which is why a CPL filter can be helpful when shooting.
Good video and very similar to my own system. I use an older version of LR so some of the tips in your ( #5 Tip ) I can't use. I was once told / or read to start at the top in LR and work my way down through the basic options. I am very wary of the Clarity slider. It can spoil images if you're not careful. Your use of the word, "Crunchy" is a perfect description of the effect.
Excellent video, thanks! Photoshop and LR have SO many options, so many potential approaches, that it's great to see a consistent set of simple to follow instructions.
just about to order my camera and lens and CANNOT wait until one day Im lucky enough to come on one of your photo safaris!!! It is #1 on my bucket list for sure!!! Thank you for the great videos!!
Janine you talk now like Simon d'entremont. I watched your podcast after some months and it is so similar to him now. I also like his youtube channel .
Hi Dimitri, I would apply it at the very end of your workflow, as you will receive a second file that is not your original RAW image anymore. By default you will loose some information that could be helpful in your editing process. I also often get asked if Topaz or Lightroom De-Noise is better and I still find Topaz significantly better at this stage.
Amazing video, thank you. If you lack subject separation, how would you edit the background? Or would you just not take the shot at all? What about a leopard in a tree?
Simon, another fantastic video! Very useful and practical application of local adjustments, you are always so clear in your explanations. It would be great to see how use both global and local adjustments. Thanks!
Great tips, thanks! I wish lightroom had a button to automatically do the steps of sliding the whites and blacks to their limits, like 0.5% of pixels saturated on both sides, etc.
@@janine-pangolinphotohost9722 that makes sense. But if I were them I'd implement it, and you could apply it to masks, like subject, background, etc. I also wish camera makers would implement an exposure setting that set exposure for auto ETTR, again letting you choose to have x% of pixels blown out.
A very enjoyable and insightful video Janine. Could you explain your terms "clipping the whites" and "crushing the blacks" - do you have a more detailed video on this step of your 'recipe'?
Generally speaking, clipping the whites refers to pushing highlights until they lose details, while crushing the blacks means the opposite, dropping shadow until all detail is lost. It’s a range - so it’s not necessarily good or bad to do either, and it can become a stylistic choice depending on your tastes, and what you are aiming to get out of your image
Great tutorial. Already an avid LR user,; the selection object tool is simply amazing! Like your use of radial filter shown in this - why did you increase noise during this video? Didn't understand why you did this. Many thanks.
Nicely structured and a very effective workflow. I suppose I could pose this question to you or to whomever is accompanying my Nov 7 Chobe-Okavango-Kalahari trip, but here goes. With the release of Topaz PhotoAI 2.0 and what I've been observing in improved noise reduction, at what point should Topaz be used and at what point in the edit process. I always send the RAW image to Topaz and bring it back into Lightroom as a DNG. But should that be done first along with Topaz options such as enhance resolution, noise, sharpening, etc or wait until color correction and masking is completed in Lightroom, turn off Lightroom sharpening and then take the image to Topaz?
Hi, that is a good question and I bet there is multiple answers to this question. I believe that by the time we convert the file to a DNG we have lost some of the information so I like to do my basic editing in lightroom first and send it through to Topaz in my last step of editing. I also don't send all my files to Topaz but only the ones that I truly find, require more help. In my eyes Topaz can fix an image that is 96% perfect .... but nothing more. I even apply sharpening in Lightroom before sending it to Topaz... and just let it do the last bit....
@@janine-pangolinphotohost9722 Thank you again. In version 1.x of Topaz, I always sent last mostly for dealing with noise and sharpening. In just a couple of days of playing with it, I find 2.0 well beyond earlier version so now pondering how to fit into workflow. Specifically, I had some early AM high ISO shots from Tarangire last year (my Sony A1 handles high ISO well) and Topaz 2.0 knocked out the noise without that artificial look. Anyway, look forward to continuing the discussion with you in person with our other fellow travelers, preferably along with a gin and tonic.
(Preface: I do not use LR or Liminar) There are now so many easier to use alternatives to LR these days. I would use Luminar for a three click workflow, or even Apple Photos with the Luminar plug in if you wanted more tweaks. Spen more time shooting than sitting at a computer.
Unless I missed something, you did not explain WHY you are using the ALT or OPTION key while adjusting the sliders. What happens differently if you do not press that key while adjusting the sliders? Thanks for giving us some structure to editing.
No image should be sharpened until it is resized for the output needed. I need to sharpen more the smaller the image. A 1000x1000 ppi web image will need a great deal more sharpening than for a 11x14 size print. I keep the final file as a 16-bit TIFF and then resize each time I need an output file of a different size and resolution.
