Not insane. I wouldn't mind occasionally paying a premium for something that is high quality and will last in terms of timeless style and also durability, gaining character along the way. Little things like that which have a lot of soul provide a kind of comfort in a disposable world.
You've got a nice collection of jeans! My favorite brands are probably Sugar Cane and Warehouse. I own a lot of stuff from both brands but in terms of jeans the Okinawa from Sugar Cane and the Lot 800 from Warehouse are the ones I wear the most. A few points though; rope/chainstitching is actually less durable than a normal straight lockstitch. If one of the "links" in the chainstitch starts to unravel and you pull on the thread the whole line of stitching comes undone very quickly, it's done purely for aesthetic reasons on the hems. It does look great though. I also disagree with not washing raw denim for six months. I usually wash mine perhaps once a month to every other month - and all the jeans which I've done so have lasted way longer over the ones I walked around being paranoid about "ruining" them by giving them a wash. Each to his own, but I've seen Iron Hearts being totally worn out in just over a year because the owner refused to wash the damn thing. Don't want to sound like a know it all but it does cotton good to get some water in it every now and then.
Upon watching your presentation, the first thought that came to mind was, "There's a guy who knows what he's doing." It's all about the double indigo; there is absolutely nothing like it. Curiously, not even hardcore denimheads seem to understand this. No other denim on earth can produce those dramatic, stunning electric blue fades in the same league as double indigo; it's almost fucking magical. When I buy denim, I am obsessed with knowing what the fades will look like. I tend to gravitate towards 3Sixteen's Shadow Selvedge - their proprietary version of double indigo. That's all I buy, because the fades are exquisite. I didn't even know that Iron Heart has a similar offering. I assure you, I'm about to find out for myself. Fade those babies in good health. I don't know who you are, but I know genius when I see it.
@@sbreslin41 Here is my oldest pair of 3Sixteen 120s in shadow selvedge, their dark-weft flagship offering. If you're into ultra-high-contrast fades, this is the one to get. ibb.co/fCGMBYz
Nice pair of Samurai’s. A shame you can’t wear them anymore. Love the honeycombs, fades, and whiskers. They turned out good. The only thing that would bother me if it was my own pair is the markings that your wallet made.
Hey could you potentially give an update as to who is impressing you with their build quality? Also would love to see an update on how the fades look now on these jeans and if they’re still in rotation?
I am an denim addict, I have around 200 pairs of selvedge jeans I've collected at thrift stores. Bought a new pair of pink selvedge Momotaro for AU$5 a couple of days ago. All started when I came across 2 pairs of Paul Smith rainbow selvedge and 2 pairs of Aika (made by Momotaro but now extinct) new with tags AU$395 a piece. I got them for $60 the lot. Don't know what to do with them all. I'm good at buying but shite at selling.
Bought an Iron Heart 25oz at Self Edge in Manhattan (around 2010). Love the pair but unfortunately the weight is way to stiff. I've had the pants for almost 7 years now and they are still hard to wear. But attention to detail is incredible. Love the video!
Does not get any burlier than those. I have the 19 oz and they are amazing. Don’t give up on IH; along with Samurai, they are my favorites. The Sam 710s are great. Take Care
Good video. Have a question about raw/unsanforized selvedge denim. Do you tend to have them hemmed to the cuffed length (I want to cuff them up) before you wear them?
Anthony Cabrera With raw, its important to get the shrinkage estimate from a reputable seller like selfedge or blue in Green. I'm 32 inches including my cuff, so if my pair has a 2.5 inch hem shrinkage, I'll have them hem the raw at 34.5. It make take a couple of hot soaks before they get there.
Anthony Cabrera Alternatively, you can soak them a couple of times prior to hemming them, and maybe leave a little extra for future shrinkage. I tend to have the seller hem them, as it's usually free and you get the chain stitch
Best answer would be ‘Generally yes’, but factor in the fit (tight or looser) and the weight of the denim (generally heavier equals more effort to break in). Worth it, though!
Haven't read any of the other comments : How would someone go about getting some of these Japanese jeans? I don't live in Japan ..but my uncle does live there could try that route (what about sizing)
Jason Mann Hi Jason, I usually go with selfedge.com. They have stores in NYC and CA, also. Knowledgeable folks. Good luck, and be sure to follow their measuring instructions. Other options are Denimio, Rivet and Hide, Vater & Son, Blue in Greene Soho. Good luck!
THANKS, yeah I am a little picky w/ fit/sizing through various dif jeans. I wanted to get a pair just to see how they are. Have been looking at a lot of brands
Adam-Thanks. The Roys are incredible. I have a few pair of Ande Whalls that are a similar story- one guy making great product. Ande’s onto other things now, as it’s a hard to make a decent living at it. Take care
want japanese raw selvage denim jean fabricated in America for $150 ? Bravestar Selvage is amazing! they also have a tiny bit of Cone Mills White oak Denim left
@@sbreslin41 Oh ... I wasn't expecting a response, but OK. I have been sewing all of my life. Starting at about the age of four or five, I'm sixty four now. I've never been taught, it was just something I knew how to do. At about age thirteen or fourteen I started making blue jeans for myself, some family, and the odd occasional kid at school. Very long story short, my sewing is known of only through word of mouth. All through the years all I hear over, and over is "You did not make these, you bought them!" OR "I can't believe you made these, they look like real jeans!" That last one really gets me ... people don't expect me to be as good as I am I guess. I haven't had a dissatisfied "customer" yet. I see all these guys on You Tube, and I just shake my head. I have not seen one pair of jeans I would buy, even if I could not sew. I don't use an industrial sewing machine or a serger, just my trusty fifty year old Sears Kenmore zig-zag machine. That's the only way one can tell my clothing is home-made is all seams are finished with a simple zig-zag stitch. So yeah ... I'm pretty damn good, even if I do say so myself.
Kevin Cook That’s very cool, Kevin. Thanks for responding to me on my tiny channel! That’s kinda why I started posting the occasional video; highlight the true craftspeople. Your story makes me think about a guy in New Zealand named Ande Whall. One man shop made the best jeans I’ve ever owned. He used to buy small rolls of denim from Japanese makers, cut his own patterns, which were perfect and really paid attention to details. Felled seams, the whole nine yards. He eventually moved on to other things, but I never saw better. Take care of yourself and thanks again!
@@kevincook8888Website? Pictures? IG? If you’re gonna brag about your “work” at least let us see some of your work and contact info so we can inquire about it.
