Did mine works just fine for 6 months 😂 2" hole and cracks worse than this. Using aluminum patch works best with jb and epoxy over it, hard paint afterwards
I have used JB Weld on those corroded areas of an aluminum intake manifold, where the coolant just eats them up from years of seeping. Let it harden overnight, then hit with a flat file before installing a new gasket. JB (original) is good to over 500 degrees. A new manifold for a 4.3 Chevy was about $600 and several days out.... so this has worked well.... and still holding years later.
Many many years ago I was on a long trip with a friend. We stopped for gas and he forgot the kickstand. Bike fell over when he got off and the shifter punched a hole in the stator cover and all the oil ran out. It was Sunday and no bike shops were open. I bought a back of 10min epoxy and some masking tape. Took the cover off and glued it. We waited a half hour before filling the oil and leaving. It held and he had a window to see the oil level.
I bought a Chevy truck several years ago. I was checking all the fluids and I found what appeared to be a pumpkin gasket leaking. So I stopped at a local parts store on the way home and they said they didn't stock the gasket and just use RTV. I went home, cleaned it up, RTV'd the heck out of it and filled it back full of fluid. Next day I noticed gear oil on the drive wheel and what appeared to be a leaking pumpkin cover. But I got to looking closer and it was a small hole in the cover near the top. I had missed it the day before because it had been leaking no telling how long and it was pretty dirty. So I cleaned it best I could with the cover still on and used some black RTV and that cured and fixed it until I could get some JB weld the next day. I cold welded it that next day and it wasn't a problem ever again..or not in 11 years. Today I started working on manipulating the metal on a bent engine pan. It's $75 for another 6 qt pan. Old school pans weren't this aluminum crap they use on today's stuff and when they were bent you could put them on the floor with blocks of wood inside and pound them back into shape.
Can I remove my lower oil pan withiut messing with the transmission ? I need to replace mine but I want to replace it myself if it’s easy on my Audi a4 2017
Probably could have used with saying it was intended as a temp fix just to see if the engine was any good. the video makes it sound like it was actually fixed and intended to be daily driven like that.
I daily drove a JB welded pan for years. Granted, I dropped the pan and JB welded the inside and outside cracks. Was a quick on hand fix to get me through the month to the next check, ended up lasting 4 and a half years before I actually destroyed the pan going over a nasty speedbump, the pan broke at a totally different point and the weld looked perfect inside and out.
Welcome to the genre of trolling videos, where clips are made just to enrage anybody who knows better. Makes money by tickling the algorithm, generating views, and funny for those who think they're smart. Problem is, there are many who are too ignorant to recognize satire. Don't kick those people when they're down, especially for money.
It's the cheap way to fix the oil pan, had no idea of the engine was good so no need to replace the pan, holds oil and doesn't leak a drop so it's a good temporary fix
I couldn't have said that any better myself this is the latest trend I been seen all over the Internet when will the algahythms catch on to what's going
Not recommended but if you’re in a pinch and need to do something like this go get some sheet metal aluminum and some regular full strength jb weld and cut out a small circle with some shears and put a ring on the circle jb weld that to the oil pan then put another bead going around the circle on the outside and that will be much better than doing it this way
you say that but not all oil pans are easy to remove , I have a dakota entire engine needs to lifted to get pan off , 800 dollar job, this fix will help you until you can afford do the job
Don’t yall think it would work better if he got a peice of steal to go across the hole with JB weld on each side leaving a rectangle steel piece |==| ⭕️ pulling it down so it can stick to the metal leaving two smaller holes on each side then doing it his way? Idk I feel like it would cap it in a way from each side rather then just jamming on one side
Surprisingly the engine didn't have a blown connecting rod, first thing I checked through the hole with my bore scope, all rods looked good, jb weld and some oil and she ran decent
@Amanuel Wordessa ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Lly6QruW6Jo.html We got it running in this video, in the previous you can see the pan that's been jb welded, it ran ok for sitting like 15 years with a hole in the pan 🤣
Not a joke, car hadn't run in roughly 15 years so no reason to buy an oil pan if engine was trashed. Didn't leak a drop of oil and was able to get the engine running to see if it had a knock or any issues which could occur due to the hole in the pan
A new oil pan is the proper fix. This is a temporary fix to help someone get out of a bind. Ive broken oil pans in the woods before on rocks and this will let you get out of the woods and keep driving until you can get a new pan. Also this car was sitting for 20 years with a hole in the oil pan so no reason to buy an oil pan for something if you dont know if the motor is healthy or not
It would be best to spend the $20 and get another oil pan. If you must use jb weld the gray is better. You should remove the pan and mushroom the inside like you did the outside. Then it would last
The jb water weld is specifically resistant to oil,gas and diesel where as the grey steelstik is not, ive used both and the waterweld works better and doesn't leak. Also a non oem mercedes oil pan is $120 and the main reason for this was the car sat over 15 years so was unsure of the engines condition or if it would run. It's a temporary fix or something that would work in a situation like this as the engine was in unknown condition
@@rotboyzgarage I drove an old Mercedes for years. Junkyard oil pan is easily obtained. My motorcycle was shot about 10 years ago and I used jb weld to fix. Would you like a picture. The key is smashing the inside like you did the outside. And I used the gray and it's still there. Say the word I'll shot you a photo.
Car sat for over 15 years and had no idea if the engine was good, do it was a temporary patch to hold oil before dumping money into something that may have had a knock or been bad
Should put a small piece of sheet metal over the hole and then JB Weld over that, this way the JB can't fail and wind up with pieces of it in your oil pan.
Use gloves then don't use gloves? I'm confused......I would definitely use something more abrasive for physical adhesion not, just relying on chemical adhesion
Only had so much time for the short for explanation, but when applying it the gloves tend to stick and pull at it vs help smear it into the material your working with so I will normally just use a finger to try and tap/work it in, but using gloves to mix it will eliminate like 85% of the mess you would have on your hands if you didn't wear anything
Couldn't fit the whole video in with the shorts time frame, but for mixing it I recommend using gloves so you don't entirely coat your hands in it, but when applying it tends to stick to the gloves to much and makes it hard to have it adhere right. So using your bar fingers I find you can tap/press and smear the edges into the metal and I have had good luck with this method
You would be surprised how long this stuff lasts when applied properly, had a pan like this for about 3 weeks on a vw tdi daily driven and it didn't leak any oil, it's a good temporary fix until you get a pan or for a woods beater
You should explain why you did this so people could understand why, that's what the description section is for. Or explain yourself in the comment section.
