430,337 miles on my 90’ yj. Original 2.5 engine. Regular preventative maintenance and regular oil changes and moderate driving. These engines are bullet proof.
Well done, young man! My 2.5l too is red in color, Rio Grande trim package. Rolled off the line in November 1995 in the final production run of the the YJ at the assembly plant in Toledo. One- of the last - of the first - series of the "Jeep Wrangler". And at 26 years old, 160 miles from now, I'll only be at 122,000 miles. I'm really glad I found your channel and I'll be checking everything out. Clearly the most intelligent YJ source I've come across on RU-vid or online period. Very cool!
Great vid, just subbed. I just want to say that yes it is a slow motor and the 4l v6 will not fit the 4cly frame without mods. Having said that my 2.5 tj gets me around nicely on the street but hwy speeds are 60 to65 max. Im cool with that and it is a reliable motor.
I have owned a 1995 yj since 2003. I bought it it had 71,000 on it. I drive it everyday .It has now 351,684 on it . I will say it doses not have the power it once had, but it still runs good. I still drive it everyday 12/23/2022.
Man THANK YOU!!!!! Subscribed super fast.....my 98 Dakota 2.5l (same motor and the Jeep) died on me a week ago, with only 164,000 miles, but it was totalled and issued a salvaged title before i bought it.... so gonna rebuild her and i needed help sincr it will be my first rebuild. Something i noticed on mine is the my head and valve cover are contoured.....like not smooth but has texture
I know you said this is not a repair video but learning how the engine functions is far better than a “how to” video. I found your video because I’ve got to replace the head gasket. You mentioned some other video where you remove the covers, which I believe exposes the gasket. What I’m curious about is if I remove the cover while the engine is still intact, do I need to drain the oil? With your engine completely removed and no oil filter attached, yada yada yada, it makes sense you have no oil to worry about. Something tells me that there won’t be a lot of oil but there will be some so that the engine can turn over without metal on metal friction.
If you are changing the head gasket you do not need to drain the oil. Now it's a good idea to change the oil when you are done, this is just in case you drop any dirt into the engine. Also be sure to follow a manual for all bolt patterns and torque specs! Thanks for watching
Recently my 2.5 started acting like it’s blown but doesn’t seem blown getting ready to tear into it soon Becusse no amount of trouble shooting wants to fix it
Is this engine at all similar to the 2.5 “iron duke” found in early 80s CJs? I’m pretty sure I have bad piston rings and I am thinking of trying to replace them.
@@Jeepdriver75 I'd think it would be related (pretty sure they are). They're both AMC 2.5L. The 4.0 was a later innovation of the 2.5 with two cylinders added.
I'm thinking that oil in the exhaust port was from a leaking valve stem seal. If you were getting excessive oilfrom inside the cylinder the cylinder would look different than the rest and so would the valves
I’m new to the Jeep world. I bought a 1993 YJ model S with ~125000 miles. Just wanting a weekend beach put-put, however found out really quickly that the AMC 2.5L is the most disliked, under powered, and unmodifiable power plants in the world. In fact it is seems to be one of the most cursed or cussed (depending on which side of the Masson Dixon line you are on) in the Jeep world, mostly the Chrysler has the ECM set up to keep modifications from being effective. In short it will nullify injector upgrades, it is not a unit that has many programming upgrades, basically it is thought of as a dog for power. However almost all threads I have read refer to the 2.5L as a tractor of an engine almost the as if the Energizer Bunny and the Chrysler slant 6 mated and the 2.5 was the result. There are intermittent misses in the number 2 cylinder, sometimes it’s the injector sometimes it seems to be the plug. It will begin loosing power in fourth gear on flat ground. I never been able to run in 5th gear. Granted I should have researched this Jeep better before buying, but I had no idea about the legacy associated with the 2.5L. Is there hope for this engine, or should I go another direction for a power plant and reliability?
As you watch my channel you will see me do everything possible to increase the performance of this engine. Although I believe it's possible ro make it drivable and even dare I say "fun", unless you are really creative with junkyard parts it will cost toy way more than swapping to a better powerplant such as a Chevy v8. I am stubborn and want to make this engine fun but it is in no way the most efficent route.
I had a 2.5 in my 97 tj, Loads of fun. Having a manual helps. But I've had it airborne so it's got just enough for off roading but not enough to do 80 lol, it's a jeep and jeeps aren't fast. But you can go where others can't.
Thanks for the replies. I’m on a learning curve here, so I may have come across as I want this to be the fastest YJ on the Texas gulf coast. That’s not my goal with the Jeep. I just want it to maintain 65 mph using fifth gear and have the ability to have some fun off road. One of the reasons I like this channel is “the stubbornness” to stick with the 2.5L. Along with real honestly e.g. “I don’t have the right tool so I’m not going to be doing this.”!
Tedd Adolphson I am going to do this over the holidays while I’m burning vacation. I suspect that this is a 85% of what is wrong. Just hate to confirm this fear (lol) as it’s going to lead to so much more fun. Because, I know me and I’ll have the champagne dream build on my mind while operating on a generic root beer budget.
I ordered a long block assembly online, but I do not know how shipping works to South Africa. We have many at the junkyards here, but again, not sure how to ship them. Maybe swap engines to something common in your area?
The "L" stands for liter its just the size of the engine. TD would mean turbo diesel... probably. No jeeps were sold with that engine in the US. You might find one in other countries but I'm not sure.
@@JeepSheepTV that’s right, I am now in Munich Germany...... I have seen videos of the actual 2.5 turbo diesel but have not found much info on the 2.5 l 4 cylinder 90 kw 122 ps 5 speed Cherokee XJ . I found a 1995 XJ with 129 k, looks in good shape on the outside and want to test drive it as soon as the quarantine is over. Is this the same engine that you are working on, reliability etc. thanks
Hey man this is the only way I can contact you I have this exact motor but can hardly find info on it can you tell me wat I need for intake and exhaust manifold hardware the bolt size ? I can't figure it out
I think I got it off of Amazon lol. For the price of a remanufactured engine you can swap in a used i6 or V8. Keep that in mind. I like my 4cyl but keeping it wasn't the best financial decision.
My best advice is to clean everything. If it comes off easily, remove it and clean it. Especially the valve cover, you can see my video on this. When the engine is clean, you can replace sensors easier, you will be more willing to do routine maintenance and you are more likely to find vacuum leaks. Also, keep it cool, if you do not have full confidence in an electric fan setup, keep the clutch fan and fan shroud. This last one seems odd but let the engine rev up to 5000 rpm once in a while, the lifters on these engines tend to stick and restrict oil flow to the top end. I found that revving the engine to higher rpm periodically helps keep the lifters from getting sticky. I also use synthetic oil and I send it in to Blackstone for analysis when I do oil changes. They tell you if there is anything concerning and let you know if you can run longer between oil changes without harming the engine.
@Rebel1280 I would imagine that you would need to replace the whole powertrain and likely end up with a slower vehicle. But if you converted to solid axles at the save time, it could be a cool/ funny build