This video was very helpful. Thank you! Couple of notes from my 2014 Dodge Durango install with self-leveling (Sachs Nivomat shocks). Without any special tools, the vise grip move to hold the shaft to remove and re-install the mount nut worked. For the Durango you need a 15mm deep socket for the bolt I vise gripped it at the top as you all suggested and it clamped down enough to work. The metal is so hard on the shaft it didn't even leave a scratch. This is funny, but the hardest part of this work was the stupid plastic boot...prying it off and putting it back on. What a pain. I hope it stays on after buggering it all up. lol!
I just tried to install aftermarket KYB SR2011 on my 2014 Laredo with load leveling factory shocks. NOTE!! The factory mount bracket MAY NOT BE THE SAME AS IN THIS VIDEO! (This jeep is 2018). My bracket was a "valley" style not flat topped. This is the NEW style that Jeep is using and is ALREADY MOUNTED to the replacement Sachs/OEM shock! Also, the dealership no longer supplies the upper bracket!! It's been discontinued in the parts listing!! So BEWARE! Take a peek up & behind the fender well liner to see WHICH MOUNT you have!! If you have the FLAT STYLE as shown in the video, you should be able to use the aftermarket load leveling KYB SR2011. Otherwise, if you have the "v" style, you'll be screwed. Monroe makes a full rear delete kit, including new spring and shock, to convert from these load-leveling shocks. Also, the Lisle 20400 shock tool would be very practical for installing the upper nut & bracket without causing any inner seal damage from spinning the core.
when you tight the top but, how did you do it, the video cut right there so we dont see how you tight it down. Im wondering if you have to hold the shaft somehow while you tight it so it doesnt rotate with the nut
the problem with using vise grips is if you score the shaft you can damage the seal... I just grinded a 18 mm socket on both sides to get a adjustable wrench in and used a 10 mm socket inside to hold the shaft in place
@@skipwilliam5639 I did mine with vice grip and made sure to hold the shaft where it won't reach there. So that's not a big deal. The seal will not hit that part of the shaft
Is it safe to lift up the rear of the jeep from the aluminum differential case? Im going to need to lift it to place my Durango on jack stands to replace the transmission mount. Jacking up from the differential makes me nervous. Good video. Thanks.
I don't have Zapp ability power tools but I'm trying to crank this upper bolt by hand to replace the upper braket to the new absorber. I have it held down so it will not spin but it still seems I don't feel like it's loosening feel like it's turning in the wrench?
Have you tried using some vise grips to get around the shaft. Then while holding the vise grips use a socket wrench on the nut and should be able to loosen that way.
Well I tried to remove the plastic boot but I cannot get it to release from the actual bracket so i cannot access the shaft. I may continue to pry at the plastic boot I don't want to damage it so I can access the bar and grip it. I'm going to run them into work tomorrow where we've got an air gun I'll give them a go there first
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE thank you yeh so it’s all the same I pooled the spindal from a 13 jeep and the lateral arm also same parts I was just like would it work it did but thank you I do appreciate it I will subscribe
The biggest difference is the type of shock you need - self leveling or non-self leveling. That was a pain for me. My Durango had the self-leveling shocks, which cost a ton more. Found a great deal on Tire Rack.
I just tried to install aftermarket KYB SR2011 on my 2014 Laredo with load leveling factory shocks. NOTE!! The factory mount bracket MAY NOT BE THE SAME AS IN THIS VIDEO!! My bracket was a "valley" style not flat topped. This is the NEW style that Jeep is using and is ALREADY MOUNTED to the replacement Sachs/OEM shock! Also, the dealership no longer supplies the upper bracket!! It's been discontinued in the parts listing!! So BEWARE! Take a peek up & behind the fender well liner to see WHICH MOUNT you have!! If you have the FLAT STYLE as shown in the video, you should be able to use the aftermarket load leveling KYB SR2011. Otherwise, if you have the "v" style, you'll be screwed. Monroe makes a full rear delete kit, including new spring and shock, to convert from these load-leveling shocks. Also, the Lisle 20400 shock tool would be very practical for installing the upper nut & bracket without causing any inner seal damage from spinning the core.
My 2014 used a 6mm inner with a 17mm outer nut. It was stuck from 3 years of use, so I stabilized the bottom of the shock back onto the lower control arm (temp re-installed the big bolt too) while VERY CAREFULLY using a 17mm impact to undo the nut.
