I’ve got 37s on mine. I geared it 4.10 within a week of lifting it and installing the tires. This ratio puts it as close to stock as you can get. It made the jeep complete. Thanks for the video. I just bought the banks kit. Can’t wait to try it.
easily the best video I’ve come across for this installation, thank you sir for taking the time to detail everything including the troubleshooting and advice on settings, very well done
Great vid! I used this vid and the Banks vid. I ran mine all hinden and under the black intake and the drivers foam engine sound deadener. I'm going to see how to mount the derringer if up top or hidden. I bough the whole kit but they gave me a extra obd2 cable rather then the 6 pin one so I need wait to finish the install. They also make that nice gauge pod that fits in the grab handle.
Great video!!! I'm more of an aspiration mechanic than a natural one, and your step-by-step instructions/tips are confidence building. The engine bay looks easy, as does the behind dash stuff, but the firewall has me baffled. [and...you didn't cover that step]. Any words of wisdom? The fender/door route seems easiest, but the firewall route is cleaner looking. That said the 2" black hole cover is tucked behind the washer reservoir - how did you approach getting the cable inside the Jeep's dash? Remove fender flare/liner?
Thank you!! The plastic hole cover piece just snaps in and is easiest to remove by pushing it out from under the dash with a long screw driver. Didn't think about mentioning since mine was already out from installing rock lights and running wires through there. I use a metal coat hanger to run wires through that hole. No need to remove the fender liner or anything.
If you look where the "stud" backs out, you can hold it with an allen wrench coming in from the front side. Then you can just loosen the nut like you originally wanted.
I have one add to your installation video. Once the sensor wires are connected, I plugged in the service bypass connector, hooked up the battery and started the Jeep. Everything operated correctly while bypassed.
That is to trouble shoot the Derringer, or run without it. It should start and run without the OBDII connector plugged in as well with either one connected to the harness.
@@DownNDirty_OffRoad you are correct. However, the plug should be pulled from the OBD and the tuner bypassed for prior to any warranty service. I had one dealership take issue with the Tazer on the other Jeep. The Tazer has zero to do withe any of the Jeep engine or transmission functions.
Thanks so much for the detailed guide! Just got mine delivered today and this helps tremendously. What are your thoughts on visiting the dealer for warranty work? Are you going to uninstall/reinstall every time?
So did you just throw away 1k dollars then? I haven't opened mine yet. Taking it to dealer for fuel pump first. Is the HPP better besides being able to swap ecu ya think?
Ok, my High Pressure Pump goes on the 16th, so I'll just install on the 17th...kinda what I was leaning toward. For some dumb reason i comprehended HPP as a whole different tune. 🤦
Most informative video so far thank you. But i have a question. My JLU diesel on 35's gets to 8th gear around 60mph and sits at 38mpg on a flat surface at 6k altitude. Could you tell me what you get on your 37s with banks? If you happened to know prior to banks that would be extremely helpful.
You may not be able to answer this, but if you're taking the Jeep to the dealership, can you unplug the Derringer but leave the wiring in place without any issues or engine lights? I know in the box it tells you to remove the pedal monster before visiting the dealer.
Long story short. They give a bypass jumper that eliminates it. BUT, if you have the gauge anywhere visible it makes it obvious. My dealership saw that and ask if it was a programmer... At that point they would not do any computer update work... but later said they would after I explained it DOES NOT change anything in the factory computer!!!
@@DownNDirty_OffRoad Thank you for the reply. I'm hoping if I just unplug the iDash and tuck the wire out of the way and keep the Derringer unplugged, they won't be any the wiser.. Fingers crossed the Jeep doesn't have to do any extended time at the dealership.
No, I didn't get that part on video. I removed the plastic plug by the brake booster by pushing it out from the inside. It was already out from other wires I had already run for rock lights. I used a 1" wire loom to put all the wires on for the hole so they are protected.
