Jeep Patriot Ground Wire Bundle Repair Cheap! Brake Light on and Headlamp Not Working. 

You are most welcome Sir. Thank you for watching!

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You are very welcome! Check out my other videos! Give the old girl some new spark plugs. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pQ93fjnaS6E.html

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Thank you for watching! It always makes my day when I can help.

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Hey, I've got the same problem with my 2011 Jeep Patriot. Just wondering if the wire cluster you repaired was in the same location (in between the fluid bottle and alternator) as shown in the video? There are so many bloody ground wires under the hood so I want to be sure I'm fixing the right one!! Thanks, Cat from Montreal 🇨🇦

What item (items) are not working?

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Lucky 7! Thanks for watching!

Perfecta Mundo!

May I know how you managed to strip the wires &did you just use a knife ?

Yes, I only used a knife. I would highly recommend using a small wire stripper tho, much easier and faster.

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Good job!!

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Thank you for watching! So glad I could help!

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Good luck!

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It was the hand parking brake light, nothing to do with fluid.

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Yay! Watch some more Pap!

I have a 2009 Jeep Patriot ! My right headlight is out and my back left tail light is out, is it the TIPM or the ground? I already bought a TIPM to see if that’s it if not.. should I try this? Obviously I’m not the most mechanically inclined person! I need some help!!

Always start with the simplest fix. It is likely just the bulbs. There will be videos on changing bulbs. Just don't touch the glass part, finger oils shorten life. It's easy!

We are still driving it as our 2nd car. 2 years ago it failed inspection for rusted out front sub frame, I was told to scrap it. BUT the kid lowering off the lift said this might be under warranty. I checked and dang NHTSA made Chrysler add 10 years to the frame warranty. Eureka! Free subframe, the next year the rear frame for free but $200 for a non warranty parts. $4500 free repairs!

I hope you get a correct diagnosis! The PCM is the last place to look.

I also later had the dash light up and default to a low gear. That is called "limp mode". Caused by the wheel rotation not being counted correctly. This could be a loss of ground contact but more likely a bad wheel bearing or rusted off sensor. Start with the ground. Watch a video on how to clear the code, or visit a auto parts that clears them for free.

If your mileage is over 90k and you still have the original bearings and one is bad the repair will not be cheap. Since I made this video I had two bearings replaced over time after going into "limp mode".

@@sixty9harleyPittsburghPAP ,you are being a Ton of help to me, Pap.

@@sixty9harleyPittsburghPAP , I'm in Canada so my mileage is in kilometers and I'm at 156,000 of those, probably around 120,000 miles. I had the brakes done about 10,000 miles ago but I see rust dust on both front wheels now.

@@Kerrsartisticgifts Don't worry about the brakes, it is likely a bearing. Limo mode makes ALL the lights come on. Test for limp mode. Idle the car in park. Press the accelerator to the floor, if it only reaches 4000 rpms or lower the computer is in limp mode. I bought a $10 OBDII and cleared the codes with my phone until I scheduled a repair $360 usd.

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Thank you for watching! Here is another helpful video for Jeeps. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pQ93fjnaS6E.html

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The same person that walked off with my wire stripper probably has my missing solder gun too! But there is no real strain on the connector. Thanks for watching!

Low/high beam would not be a ground issue. I can't think low/high would be a fuse either. I would suspect a faulty switch if BOTH don't high/low. If only one won't high/low... PUNT! Drive it that way until you sell it.

Get it before the headlight goes out, it won't be very long!

@@sixty9harleyPittsburghPAP Yes, that's what happened to me. lol, I replaced the transmission shifter bushing. So in order to change the bushing, you have to put the parking brake on in order to lift the floor console up & disconnect the 120v plug and the 4WD Lock. I already knew about grounding issues and I assume that when I set the parking brake, it caused it to fault and leave the Brake Light on. That same day I drove up to the gas station I buy gasoline at. People were flashing their Headlights at me on the way to and from the gas station. Got home, parked my Jeep and figured I'd leave it running and look at the headlights, thinking maybe a light was bad. And yep, the right side headlight was not working, just like your Patriot. I knew about the Grounding Pigtails having corrosion issues, so I did exactly what you did, with the exception of removing that small Circuit just above the Pigtail, (which you can see in your video at 2:50.) That Grounding Pigtail comes out of that Harness, so I also snipped off the lower ''Wire Tie'' that holds the harness to the ''Fan Shroud'' at the bottom. That way I could pull that Ground Pigtail, along with the Harness up about another 6 inches, making it way easier to repair. ***If you live in a ''Rust Belt State'' the following Will happen:*** I repaired the following issue after I fixed the Grounding Pigtail associated to the Headlight and Brake Light. I rewired the 2 Grounding Pigtails that are directly in front of the battery. (One of the Pigtails did have 1 wire for sure that fell out of the Pigtail, after I unbolted it from the body.) After I completed the 2 Pigtails, I went to another common problem that plague Compass and Patriot owners in the Rust Belt. If you stand in front of the Jeep, look at where the front inner fender wall, about level with the bottom the the left ''Marker/Blinker'' Light assembly. You will see a Black Plastic Relay Box. While sitting in the drivers seat, it would be the Left Rear Relay, that gets corroded. (The following had already been done but I'll explain it as if no prior work was done since that repair already had what I think was either a Ground or a Power Wire that wasn't connected.) At any rate, You open the Relay Box and that Left Rear Relay was corroded to the point that it's easier to remove the Relay from the Box and wire it directly outside of the Box. After I confirmed it was wired correctly and that all connections were tight, I used a plastic sandwich baggie, then fit it over the Relay that is out of the relay Box, then used a Zip Tie to help insure that it cannot get moisture. Next the Relay Box. I used a Large Food Storage Baggie and worked it around the entire Relay Box to insure that it can no longer get moisture on/inside the Relay Box, then used a Zip Tie as I did with the other Relay. Why it's best to have an OBD2 Fault Code Reader: The vehicles computer, which already had the ''Check Engine Light'' on, (which according to a Fault Code Scan I did a year ago in late October 2019 after I bought the Patriot, was showing P0420, a bad o2 Sensor and I needed to replace the Catalytic Convertor, according to a repair facility by me.) Next, between rewiring 3 Grounding Pigtails and correcting the one corroded Relay, the vehicle was really running strange and it just didn't seem right to me, so I figured I better Scan it. After it pulled up 8 Fault Codes, I went online to check each one of them. After I got the information I Erased all the Fault Codes. The ''Check Engine Light'' is still off, so either a Ground or the Relay was actually the issue all along. If I had taken it to a corner garage and they told me what I found, I could see that if they were the least bit dishonest, I could have been spend $1,000 on a bunch of ''False-Positive'' repairs. The Fault Codes I am including so you or others can see why having this scanner is worth the investment. Now here is the list of Faults in recorded order, including the - *Check Engine Light*, 1: P0420, 2: P0456, 3: U1110, 4: U1120, 5: P2010, 6: U0416, 7: U0416 8: P0032. After all the work there has been - 10 startups, (miles driven each startup unrecorded.) From experience, I know that ''P0420 and P0032 refer to the Catalyst System and anytime I have cleared the Check Engine Light and any Fault Codes, The Check Engine Light comes back on within 3 Startups and approximately 3 miles.... I am down to 1 issue, which is the 4WD! light

@@montydaniels1054 The 4wd light might end up being a bad wheel bearing or just the sending unit. My traction control and 4wd light were on AND it actually engaged the 4wd. I had the rusted out rear hub replaced all good now.

The ring hole should be bigger than 1/4".

do you know if they sell the whole ground wiring harness? I'm having the same issue but I'm thinking of replacing the whole harness all together

Probably, but there is a least two big bundles, hours of labor, they have to do both ends! HUGE $$$. My repair cost less than $2.

@@ocl1995 Pop the hood. The ground wires are all laced into the harness. If anything, you need the different wiring schematics showing you what is where. I'm sure you can get replacement harness's from suppliers but if I look at my 2010 Patriot, it'll probably be easier to do what I am doing now. I'm driving a 1993 XJ I bought in September. Although I'm already sissified where I won't drive it once the county starts using salt, in the mean time as long as I can start working on that Patriot, I'll slowly start taking apart the harness's one at a time & cleaning the ends, or replacing the wires that are all corroded. Poor engineering at Chrysler, along with cheap material is the blame. I just checked an issue I was having with the shifter and after I reassembled the center shifter console, the ''Air Bag'' warning light stays on, the bulb that illuminates the gear selector area & the heating system stopped working. So whenever you try to fix one thing, something else starts acting up & also remember that whenever you do anything on these vehicles, you've gotta disconnect the battery cables to clear the system, or it just causes more problems.

Thank you for watching! Good luck and G'day mate!

A bad ground can effect everything or anything from your dome light to the 4x4.

The Jeep in my video would self engage the 4x4 and traction control light + limp mode due to a bad wheel bearing.

@@sixty9harleyPittsburghPAP interesting. It’s bizarre how one issue can affect another completely separate thing.

I am going to make a new Jeep headlight video soon. Upgrading to LED! They just arrived today 🙂 Subscribe and ring the notification bell! (my low beam went out, the bulbs in this video are ageing).

Did it work?

Girl power! I have since learned the easy way to strip the wires is with a $1 stick lighter from the Dollar Tree. But if you take your car to a "Shade tree" mechanic and tell them to put new ends on your ground bundle it should not cost to much... It's not all that difficult to do yourself and if you screw it up your right back to where you were...

Any broken wire has to have two ends.. hopefully you can find both. I can't help with that. The ring size was the biggest they had, over an inch long and the center hole is 3/8". I lost the package label. I just found them in the Advance Auto Parts store aisle.

​@@sixty9harleyPittsburghPAPthanks for your reply. Do you know by any chance the AWG of the ring terminal you got? I'm guessing 12-10 AWG but could be wrong. I just figured out that the ground from the valve cover goes to the passenger strut and the ground wire from the firewall behind the passenger strut goes to the left hood hinge. Again, thanks appreciate the video

@@ithinkiatecatinchina I do not know the AWG, I just brought the biggest-heavyest.

Thank you for watching. Ground wires will mess with anything and everything! But most likely your issue is the switches all together on the same mount area. I would just ignore that FOREVER! No harm no foul!

@@sixty9harleyPittsburghPAP I would but, it kinda stalls out and the charging light and engine light turn on. Also a popping noise from behind the radio happens, when I turn on the blower... At least it runs now... Gotta love Chrysler Jeep engineers for making the relays water spunges... That was also a fun fix... The relay box should be higher so it would not turn into a water bucket!

@@wesss9353 Sounds like hot wires/switch shorting out. Likely not a ground. Much harder to diagnose unless you can flip something on and off and get the radio snap which = sparks. A bad switch is only my guess. A broken ground does not normally spark enough to cause a radio pop.

@@wesss9353 Talk about engineers? I got the front and back sub frames (5k$) replaced for free under a NSTA recall for rusting out prematurely. The AC water dripped on top the frame 24/7/365 until it rotted off the car!! No paint+Salt+water = rusted frame.

I do not, but the Jeep forum has a diagram on it that may list items. I do know when I had the whole bundle disconnected I could still drive it.

everything there's freakin like 10 wires in there

I usually get everything i need at O'Reillys

Buying a "ground wire" is not that simple. There are two, 1 left side, and 1 right. They are a 9-10 wire harness grounding everything from radio to AC to each light. Buying a wiring harness requires attaching ALL 10 INDIVIDUAL wires to their object. Yours being a 2017 I would not suspect a ground issue.

For the amateur with limited tools and talent the prospect of removing items would likely send them straight to a dealer.

Stud ring terminal connectors I believe.

Have faith! If a 70 year old man can do it I am sure you can, even if you need a bit of a stool to reach. Just allow plenty of time. In the worst case it will still run and get you to someone to help. Make sure you get a good crimp on the new ends.

I actually do not know about that side. I went and looked at it and I could not determine for sure that is where that ground goes. Your possible choices are: 1. Go ahead and do my repair and see if it works 2. Determine which of the 3 wires at the back of the bulb connector is the ground (I don't know), go back 4-5 inches, splice a new wire to it and attach it somewhere close by to the fender. 3. Look for another video for that side light. Sorry. You will eventually need my repair anyway. Good luck!

Posters below said it fixed their drivers side lamp, and rear lamps!

@@sixty9harleyPittsburghPAP Thanks PittsburghPap...Will follow your recommendations..Thanks again..Dave from WV

EVERYTHING needs grounded! It's just where the ground is, I think there are 4.

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@@sixty9harleyPittsburghPAP Yeap, A/C ground is in the same location, I wanted to add the info in case someone gets this problem, thanks a lot for the video, very helpful info, greetings from Costa Rica!

Diego, My AC wasn't working this summer on my 2007 Jeep Patriot so the garage said I needed a new condenser and charged me $875 for it. Do you think it could just have been this grounding issue? I sure would have liked to pay a few bucks for the part and done this repair myself. Thoughts...

Not being grounded is a very simple check on AC. The clutch would not engage. The new unit would not work unless grounded. You can check to see if the ground was repaired by looking at the ground stud or follow the AC wires for an "added" ground spot. If the mechanic added or repaired the ground... he did it AFTER the new unit was installed and failed to work. Thanks for watching!

They make different sizes.

That wire does not affect the function of anything. It is part of the radio (which most cars have) installation package for noise suppression. So NO clear AM radio for you!

@@sixty9harleyPittsburghPAP that’s what it is!!! Hahaha that’s way too funny. Thanks for the info. Thankfully the ground wire showcased in this video is fine on my patriot 👍✌🏼

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Good luck!