Thanks !! That helped us. Our turn signals weren't working on our TJ in just the front. We took the turn signal assembly apart, cleaned the contacts, put it back together and the turn signals worked but the headlights weren't which were working before. We took the signal switch assmbly back apart again and my hubby found that he put one piece back together incorrectly (had to go into slots), fixed that and all is working perfectly again :) TY!!!
Very helpful, thanks. Although my problem still persists after cleaning contacts, your video has given me experience and confidence to see how easy it is to deal with possible future issues related to this switch. My problem is significantly varying voltage to 12v outputs associated with vibration (auxiliary and cigar lighter used for fridge and cell phone + flickering radio/clock & odometer displays). Voltage varies when headlights are on, but not off. Headlights and parking lights do not flicker. Previous owner switched out fog lights and did his own rewire, so I'll be looking into that crap. Last recourse is to directly wire those outputs to battery. The varying voltage causes phone and fridge to shut down.
THANKS!! My fog lights quit working on my 2001 over 10 YEARS ago! I am a cheapskate, so it never got fixed. I didn't even investigate taking it apart... this is VERY promising. I love tinkering, so this looks like a fun project! Thank you for the motivation!!
Usually when they go out, there is a tiny “bump” on a slide switch that has been worn down. The bump can be repaired with a drop of epoxy, plastic weld, or any product that would renew that bump. I have seen some videos out there specifically on that problem, it should be an easy fix. Hopefully in the near future I will make a video, of an entire tj light switch tear down.
Great! Thanks for the tip. Just replaced the blower motor switch ($24 part). Next up the fog light switch. I'll update what I find after I get it disassembled... 👍
@@jeepersoutpost1150 I got it all apart... EXCELLENT instructions BTW 😊 , and nothing was burned - contacts were just a little gummy. Cleaned it all up, applied new electrical grease and put it back together. No fog lights. Checked fuse... THEN I remembered - I had taken the fuse out several years ago... Because the fog lights would not stay off... the switch is "loosey-goosey" sloppy - you have to push hard on the end of the stalk to get the lights to go off - and they still turn back on intermittently. I think something is worn up inside the end of the stalk. I removed the fuse years ago after a dead battery... So NOW my plan is to re-wire a toggle switch on the dash, and not use the stalk mounted switch. Thanks again for your EXCELLENT video!!
Thank you very much. Im reacing mine right now. Cant beleive i paid someone twice already to replace that switch. Beginning to wonder if theres something else causing it to fail as this is my tbird one....granted it is 20 years old. Thanks for your valuable tutorial.
In 2020, I’m dealing with this similar situation right now on 2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon. Only it also melted the connector to the multifunction switch. I’m going to replace the switch and the connector, but am going to pry open the old switch like you showed and just see what’s going on. Side note: my drivers side rear tail light is pretty rusted so no good ground is happening AND the plug connector for the drivers side front turn signal is not fully seated in... Lol so my whole drivers side flash and all is getting some love. Lol. Thanks
Fortunately haven’t had that happen. Other easy fix would prolly to secure it with a zip tie, otherwise you gotta splice in a new connector. Thanks for watching!
My problem is with the fog light switch. It is in the off position but they stay on. If I push in on the end of the handle they go off but when I let go they come back on. Do you think it can be fixed or should I order new?
Yep, there is a little “bump” inside the switch that breakers the connection when off, when that bump wears down, the circuit isn’t broken, and the lights stay on. I have seen a RU-vid vid where a guy shows you how to rebuild that bump, saving the cost of a new switch. Search it out, and let me know if I can do anything to help.
Connor Fitzgerald it’s been a while since I fixed it. The light controls are in that same assembly, there are 2-3 copper circuit panels in the assembly, if you have never cleaned them, they probably all need cleaned. Thx for watching.
I had to replace my ignition switch to remedy that problem. I could jiggle the keys to get it to work but if I hit a bump it would stop working. I replaced my ignition switch and it fixed that problem.
So i took it apart abd cleaned it good and it's working but I had a small. White plastic part with a small hole and i cant figure out where to place it back in.. My lights work now but i cant get the high beams to lock.in place im sure that plastic part it the key to it
Customer came to me with this issue. The High beam indicator won’t work. Dealer told them the module that controls that is no longer available. So I don’t end up with a large Bill just to discover what they said is true do you happen to know about this?
Chuck, I’m not familiar with this so I can’t offer any experienced guidance. It may be worth taking the thing apart and cleaning it well as corrosion is a problem. I do think the entire assembly is available at the parts house.
