Watching this video I solved my problem by separating the activator sheet, I added a sheet of super 33+ scotch round, nothing, no bigger than 3/8", mount it back and bingo it was left at the factory, the problem was driving me crazy and nothing with 5 cents of time I solved it, thank you very much.
This totally worked for my 2000 TJ! My switch was rectangular, but it all still functioned the same. I did basically everything the video and the comments section said, including snipping the edge, separating the two sheets, and I even did the dielectric grease hack It’s honking beautifully now lol. Thanks for the help and expertise!
Awesome video. I replaced my relay and clock spring yesterday. Pretty sure my horn is stuck together like yours. I'll pull it all apart today and try your method. Thanks
This helped me fix the horn on my 1997 wrangler. You are correct in that the other gentleman showed the removed horn switch but did not show how to remove the steering wheel face pad and the air bag to get at the switch ,which was most helpful. The camera seemed a little far away however and it was difficult to see some of the detail of what you were doing if using your cellphone for RU-vid while in the garage. But this was excellent info. Thank you!
This worked for me, i put some dielectric grease it between the 2 pieces super glued the 2 pieces together and it worked perfect.. dont forget this horn switch only supplies ground to the horn. The horn has constant 12 v going to it and when u depress the horn button it sends ground to complete the circuit. They do not make new replacements of these you would have to buy another used one and hope it works and u have to buy the used airbag with it and most are about $500 bucks so might as well try to fix yours. It was easier than i thought it would be.
Thats what my TJ is doing. Horn won't shut up. Excellent video really helps. But I'm going to try and find a replacement switch before I pull it apart. Thankyou for sharing
I tried the dielectric grease and it wouldn’t make contact. Ended up cleaning the grease off, rubber cementing it together and it works great. I cut all of the plastic welds off and wish I hadn’t. Just cut 1/2 like he shows you. I had to use black 3m boat adhesive. (Forget the number. And let it dry. Still works great. I like the dry moly suggestion. Curious how that works.
anything can happen but since it need a signal to fire I am not too concerned. however once loose i move it to the side and I dont get my face near it.
yes still works great, I am not sure why it stuck together in the first place. from the factory its sealed around the edges so my guess is age and florida heat.
@@gearboxgarage thanks for the update. I did the repair, and used some spray silicone lubricant with a high dielectric strength inside the contact pad to hopefully keep it from re-occurring. The dielectric does not seem to have any ill effect on the contact surface, horn works normally now.
