I’m starting to hear a click or two when turning my wheels at driveway speed in my 392 on 37s. I thought it just might be the ball joint nuts out of torque spec. Might need to upgrade to those RCVs.
The ball joints are definitely a common issue. . My CVs were clicking under power/load off-road. Since I swapped to the RCV’s, I haven’t heard a single click.
I was wondering about the 392 axle shafts. Great video! I had RCVs on my 2011 JK and loves them! They’re easy to rebuild as well after you put a lot of miles on them. Definitely an upgrade I need or do on my 392! Just more money right 🤣
I really want to upgrade to these on my JT Rubicon with 37's. The only thing that I am hesitant about is the lack of a dust seal for the axle tubes. It looks like debris can enter the axle tubes without that plastic barrier on the stock axles. Has anyone found this to be a problem when it comes to water or debris intrusion? And finally has anyone found a way to seal off the axle tubes with this upgrade?
So i have a 392 without xr package and i just put 37's on it, as you probably know i have 3.73 gears so im planning on swapped ring n pinion sets over Easter weekend to 4.88, ive purchased all the parts, rounded up majority of tools for the job, watching a few videos to get some tips so it goes smooth as possible, and this video helped as i wasn't positive about what i was getting into w the FAD obsolete the we have, seems simple enough, but i do have a question, since (for now) ill be reinstalling the oem axle shafts can i leave the axle nut on that retains the wheel bearing hub assembly and pull it all as 1 assembly?
You can do that on the driver side, but you won’t be able to do that on the passenger side. You’ll still need to pull that C clip and move the mid shaft over to be able to drop out the carrier.
Has that 3022 transfer case held up well for you? I just got a 2023 Rubicon with that same transfer case. Mine is a 3.6 V6, so not nearly the torque output as the V8. I am hopeful it's tough enough.
Zero issues so far. I keep mine in ForceRWD drive for highway driving and most daily driving. I think if you can preserve the clutch, they can go to the distance. There’s already a lot of other 392 owners that are getting up there in miles with way more mods and hard-core use than what I’m doing.
What would you think about changing the stock axles for the RCV axle on a non-392 Rubicon JL? Is this a smart upgrade? Ive seen some U-joint disasters first hand and I want to avoid them as much as possible when going out.
Excellent video! As usual very informative. I had no idea on the FAD. I don’t why Jeep wouldn’t just eliminate it for 392. I ordered my very first Jeep. A 3.6l rubicon which is going to have a working one but not sure I am a fan of it.
I would not. It’s going to put the drivetrain under a tremendous amount of stress. The 4Auto in the 3022 transfer case isn’t fully “locked” like yours would be in 4 high.
Thank you for such a great video, I was just looking for this info related to my gladiator rubicon I’m going for 40s and definitely this is the way to go, is a awesome insurance in my opinion for a peace mind even that I’m not gonna go with level 8 /9 trail. Question I have the same layout with the 4 h auto also my gladiator came with the same cv axle like the 392, I have a overland setup you think is specific model of RCV can make the job, or i should go with the 300 in strength, I’m not a hardcore rock crawler. Thank you!
@@DrivingLineany recommendations in chromoly rear axle shaft? Also can be use 4 h auto permanently in the jt after regear and RCV? Or can case any damage?
I would go with RCV for the rear shafts as well. I would personally avoid using 4Auto unless you absolutely need it. The clutch pack in the 3022 transfer case is a know wear item and bit of a weak link.
@@DrivingLine hmm ok! Saw somewhere posted that 392 XR axles with FAD delete 4.56 gears 10mm thick axles and bigger diameter brakes..maybe I misunderstood about axle shafts being chromoly
The FAD is technically still there, but they put a block off plate and use a fixed mount collar so it’s always engaged. The axle tubes are supposed to be thicker than the standard Rubicon and it has iron knuckles instead of the aluminum ones.
They are not wrong, just limited by bean counters and countless other factors that go into building vehicles. I’ve interviewed engineers at Jeep, Ford, GM, and many other brands over my 17 years as an automotive journalist. They will all tell you the same thing. They don’t always get to build what they want. Look at special projects, concept and wild card vehicles built at an OE level. They are full of aftermarket parts just like these axleshafts.
@@DrivingLine really? Oh ok...i'll stick with the stock 392 then. Even if they are allowed to build more they still need lots of testing of failures so consumers can buy vehicles with reliability to use as transportation first. What you've done is nice, but might give up other parts to fail. There's a reason they put other parts to fail first so you won't have to replace other parts with massive dollars to replace. And still needs to test your idea with lots of miles and see if something breaks, will it cost more on other parts. If not , i'm sure Stellantis would hire you as their engineer.
The transfer case is still the biggest weak link for sure. Unfortunately, I’m not aware of an easy fix. I know a few people are working on some things. However, upgrading to an Atlas is definitely not an easy fix. For now, I keep mine in ForceRWD with the Tazer to help preserve the clutch pack. I did a video on that last year.
That’s easy to do. You just have to use a Tazer from ZAutomotive. I primarily keep mine and 2WD to preserve the transfer case clutch pack. Regardless, you still need to upgrade the front CV axles if you’re going to do any sort of serious wheeling.
