Man, you saved me over $900! I lost all pressure in my clutch pedal, couldn't shift. Called my local off-road store (Dallas/Fort Worth area) and described it to him. He said I had to replace the slave, master cylinder, and the hose between them and they had to order the parts from the Jeep dealer... $980, parts and labor. So, I did a RU-vid search about these things and here you were with exact problem and answer. I bought a new clutch slave cylinder from Summit Racing Parts for $50, climbed under my JK and 45 minutes later I was done. Back to shifting as good as new! I owe you a dinner! Thanks a lot for this install video!
Yeah great video but when I went to install it the end pieces fell off and went into the trans! It’s been a bad night! I should have stop when the ratchet fell and hit me in the mouth!
I have a 2010 Sahara. I have now put 5 Duralast Slaves in my Jeep Since August of 2021. I went back 3 years and found that the same one has bad or poor reviews. Since I haven't been daily driving it at all because of other needed parts maintenance we just continued to return it for a replacement. Come to find out they were all recalled and here we are again... #5 is also bad. Mine doesn't hold a seal. You get in maybe 125 miles at best then it fails. Absolutely do not buy a Duralast Replacement. I cannot believe I am just now seeing this video after all the research and video watching. Its now July of 2022.
I replaced the Master and Slave on a 98 TJ with a sealed pre-bled kit. For the life of me it still won't shift and a mechanic friend told me I still need to bleed it. The problem I had was the bleeder hole was downward and after re-installing the slave by turning it with bleeder up, it held pressure after a few pumping. I should have made a video. I'll make one with the master/slave I took out just to demonstrate my error.
boy you're lucky when I had my 89 yj I had to take down the transmission and swap out the slave cylinder. Crappy old French design, heck back in the 90's all I had is a small set of craftsman hand tools and a cheap bottle jack, but got it done in the end.
When I have an issue with my Jeep all I have to do is type my issue in RU-vid search and walla, there 's Ben from JK Gear and Gadgets with a video to help me. Thanks, bro!
When I pulled the hydraulic line out of the old slave, there was no little rubber cap. I did it slow are carefully and I'm certain it didn't fly off and roll away. I looked inside and even smashed the slave open with a hammer and it wasn't there. The boot was torn on the old one though. I inserted the line into the new slave, removed the master cylinder cap and pumped it by hand until it had pressure. Then I bolted it up and pressed the clutch about 50 times. Jeep was parked facing up hill. I then put the cap back on and drove it around the block. It works perfectly fine. I checked the slave and no leaks. My question to anybody and everybody is, has anyone experienced this also? Not having the little rubber cap? I haven't driven it far yet so if it starts leaking I know why. But so far so good and it's interesting that there was no cap present. 🤷♂️ Does anyone know the part number for the hydraulic line? Just incase.
good vid, thanks. On my old one , the bellows boot came off at the end. this allowed dirt and shit to get in an ruin the cheap single oring seal and it eventually leaked (60,000km). when i installed the new one I used a small ziptie on the end of the boot that fits tight with the lip. should hold it for a much longer time. Bleeding still sucks and I will have to do it once or twice more this week :)
Great video, thank you for sharing! I have a 2010 Wranlger, 118k on the clock. My clutch pedal has squeaked for a few months now. I've tried lubricating to no end. Comes and goes. So far, the Clutch performance has been fine. But just today, I read elsewhere that the Clutch Slave Cylinder could be the culprit for the squeak that I'm hearing when I depress and release the pedal. Would you, or anyone else agree?
Ever find answer to this? I need help it’s our only vehicle & need to get her back on the road to get to work. If you don’t mind I could email you my phone number or something so I could ask you a few questions maybe compare the problem I’m having to yours & solutions you tried etc... my GF step dad put 2 slave cylinders on & they both basicallly broke within minutes so had to tow it do dealership they can’t even order the part til Monday & won’t get to it for days then charging $150 for part + $100 hour it’s gonna be $700 + :(
Its good to see people do their own work and Mods. See so many on the trail with their Pavement Princess and a simple broken part and they have no idea how to repair it. Stay home people, you embarrass yourself and just get in the way.
Hey Ben I just replaced my clutch with the centerforce clutch and replaced the slave. How does your pedal feel? Is it firm or really soft? Mine right now is really soft zero resistance and I’m trying to figure out if that’s normal or do I need to bleed it more.
Is it shifting gears fine? The centerforce can be a tad soft, but you want to make sure that the clutch is fully disengaging. Put it in 4 low, first gear, clutch pedal depressed, and rev up to 2K rpm. The Jeep should not move forward, if it does, then you need to bleed it again.
Hi Ben super super informative I just wanted to ask you my oil seems to be coming out of the Bell house before I spotted the oil a week before that I lost my catch goes to the bottom like Notting and has no pressure on the catch pedal it’s been parked for 3 weeks or so today I went out to start it and checked around the engine no oil anywhere from the engine I’ve already changed the oil cooler so it’s not that just wanted to know if it could be from the Slave cylinder? Thanks ahead of time
we installed a new clutch, re-surfaced fly wheel, new throwout bearing (forgot the fkng pilot bearing but it was intact) and after installing it all - couldn't get any clutch pedal aside from maybe 10-15%?? have it all back out again now and the clutch fork looks installed correctly and we want to put it all back together but I have no idea why we can't get the clutch pedal to feel like it's 100% - slave cylinder looks ok but how does the slave cylinder retract on the Wrangler JK? i think it's always pushed in on the clutch fork (extended) - it would seem like the clutch fork should be hard to push when retracted but this isn't the case here - i think between my slave cylinder, the clutch fork and the pressure plate - something is amiss and i am going crazy trying to figure this out. any advice would be helpful.
I just changed out my clutch and after putting everything back together , I had the fluid leak from the bell housing that you mentioned in your video. So I m replacing slave cylinder tomorrow. Is it neccessary to remove the 4wd linkage to change out the slave cylinder?
hey ben. just did the centerforce swap, got everything installed and had no pedal. found the slave to be leaking. got a new one, when i pulled the old line the plastic around the fitting fell apart. got the new hose on there and about to bleed. thanks for the video, any other tips of tricks for bleeding
This might be a dumb question but I've never bled brakes before. After the new cylinder is connected, primed 20 or so times like you suggested and then re-installed. Do I leave the reservoir cap off during the bleeding process? Also you said pump the clutch and leave the pedal pressed to the floor, did you mean push it slowly and leave it to the floor to bleed the air out or should you actually pump it and then leave it to the floor? Thanks for the help.
Yes leave cap off and check level regularly. Pump it a few times slowly, then hold to the floor and have someone open the valve, fluid will come out, then Close valve and then let the pedal up, repeat as needed.
Ben about to do the J8 swap, what's the part that the slave cylinder line goes into up top by the resivor that looks similar. Have the manual so will be adding a separate resivor.
How long did that Dorman last you? I've went thru 3 of them over the last several years with not a lot of miles. The last one only lasted a few hundred miles before failing. I'm trying the Carquest one that you didn't like to see what kind of luck I have with it.
The car quest one is funky, you can give it a shot but the bleeder is in a bad location. However it’s not plastic, let me know! I’m on my second Dorman, I swear there’s not a good one out there
So I just replaced my clutch and I just have my transmission rebuilt because it was throwing it out of first gear. Now its hard to go into 1st and 2nd. The transmission shop claims it could be the master/slave cylinder.... does this sound right?
Why do you have to changed this salave cylinder? Because i just notice on my 07 Wrangler that when I drove it on highway for 30 minutes I noticed that it was hard to shift every gear but when I turned it off for 3 minutes and turned it back on it was normal. Can you please explain why?
I have not, but I would recommend it if you are needing to change your clutch out anyways. However, use the national brand throwing bearing and don’t use the center force TOB
Yes do NOT use the centerforce tob. After 9 months of having it installed the tob centerforce provided took a crap and I get that horrid rattle when you press on the clutch. Go OEM with the tob.
Once you pressurize the slave, before installing in and tightening it down, how do you get it snaked into the opening? Having trouble with the hydraulic line attached and the piston pressurized.
Kinda just have to snake it in there. And with the bleeder on the side, the air will never come out as it will retain a air bubble on the top of the piston.
I just spent hours bleeding one with the valve on the side. In the end I just needed to point the front down hill and use a vacuum bleeder. JK GEAR AND GADGETS initial description of priming it with the front pointed down have me the clue I needed.
BRETT m Their is no clutch master cylinder on these JK's, they share the same hydro system with the brakes so your brake master cylinder IS your clutch master cylinder as well.
That is incorrect. The master is located on the fire wall by the reservoir. There is a rubber hose that goes from the reservoir to the master cylinder.
it will be more easy if u go to harbor frieght and buy the brake bleeder vacuum pump. u will be able to suck fluid out the the pump which would have helped u even if u wanted to keep the car quest slave cylinder. I paid like $24 with coupon, and makes bleeding brakes less headache lol. part #53391
