Jewelry Casting Made Easy Using Delft Clay & 3D Printing 

I with how you how to make copies of your work using sandcasting along with how to make new castings with the help of a 3d printer. Big thanks to Ridge for sending me this wallet and supporting the channel! Here’s the site if you want to check them out. bit.ly/RidgeWallet-GomeowCreations Use Code “GOMEOW” for 10% off your order! 😁👍 ***If you are looking to by one of the solid silver scarabs place email me, first come first served*** GomeowCrations@gmail.com ELEGOO Mars 2 Pro Mono Resin 3D Printer - amzn.to/32SnfU2 Cast Iron 2-Part Flask Mold - amzn.to/3py0ZIF Aluminum 2-Piece 100 MM Round Mold - amzn.to/38PxwnO 4.4 Lbs Delft Clay - amzn.to/3nC35pn *Cheaper but not as detailed* 5 Lb Petrobond Casting Sand - amzn.to/3nsSCfG Cast Iron 2-Part Flask Mold with Petrobond Casting Sand Kit - amzn.to/2ILJ40x Cheap Metal Melting Furnace - amzn.to/2H6IPwf Electro-Melt Melting Furnace - bit.ly/Electro-MeltMeltingFurnace Smiths little Torch - bit.ly/SmithLittleTorch5tips Smith Little Torch Rosebud Tip - amzn.to/3kDPSKs Baby Powder - amzn.to/3nwWA6Y Scraper/Chopper Stainless Steel - amzn.to/3lGX6ic Sheet Cake Pan - amzn.to/3nwF1nO Brass Hammer - amzn.to/3f684vb Ceramic Crucible - amzn.to/3pA0w8O The maker of the 3D Files that I used instagram.com/the.jewelry.fantasy/ If you are looking for more tools and materials that I use, well you're in luck! I made a page on my website just for that and I'm updating all the time so bookmark it to stay up to date: GomeowCreations.com/tools-and-materials GomeowCreations.com/partners-discount-codes *If you buy any of the tools or materials from my list I will make a small commission at no extra charge to you and it helps support the channel* ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If you would like to directly support the channel you can do so in a few different ways. If you would like to directly support the channel you can do so in a few different ways. 1. Like, comment and share my videos 2. You can make a one time donation via Paypal of any amount www.paypal.me/gomeowcreations 3. You can sign up a monthly donation via my patreon for as little as $1 per month www.patreon.com/GomeowCreations 4. You can sign up a monthly donation via my Subscribestar for as little as $1 per month www.subscribestar.com/gomeowcreations 5. Just watching my videos helps out too and I'm happy to see that I have been able to help some may people get into jewelry making. #delfcasting #delfclay #sandcasting #jewellerymaking #jewelrymaking #goldmaking #silversmithing #diy #gomeowcreations

And you should put the piece face up on the table, put the cope and clay on top making a tight print coat. Flip, make a pour funnel/feeder and vents, put on drag and pack clay, separate, refine sprue and vents, remove piece, etc

Having had a job as an artisan at a bronze foundry for a few years, I think most of your defects are shrink deficits and insufficient vents. To minimize shrink deficits, you need wider gates and sprues, but mostly you need to make a pour cup large enough to keep feeding them as they cool, preventing them from separating and cutting off the flow of molten metal. My castings of everything from figurines to monuments had minimal to no shrink deficits, so I think this will at least reduce the shrink deficits.

I've been a jeweler for 34 years, a nice tip for you, moisten a paper towel and run over the edges of the object in the mold before you pull it. Preserves the edges. Nice video!

Hey randy! Another way you can do things with flat backs is by putting the back on the table first. Then you sprinkle fine clay on top to get the details in, then start packing heavy sand on top of that. It captures the details best from what I've seen. Hope that helps!

With flat back items there is no need to do a split cast just form the drag over it, place flat cope on top this will pretty much eliminate the edge flash.

From my experience as a defence braze and pipe fitter, I can say that pitting is usually the result of a dirty surface (not enough flux[borax]) or not having enough air outlets for air to escape. Also it looks like you have some shrink defects.

You mention having issues with getting perfect results around the 24 minute mark - have you tried olivine sand? I haven't worked with it personally, but i've seen it pop up in discussions about fine-mesh casting sands. Another thing to try would be to incorporate your vents and sprue into the 3d printed master, so you're not knocking around loose sand as you're cutting them. Also, for 2D pieces like that medallion, you can design a threaded hole into the piece and when it comes time to remove it from the mold, simply screw a screw into it and use that screw as a handle to lift the piece out.

This is exactly what I was after. Thanks

An interesting way when resources are limited or you need to do something semi-antique, I liked your work, keep up the good work.

i like the rougher ones bit more to them more hand made antique kind of sorts yep good, take care keep well keep safe.

This video was really useful. I have only tried a. Small amount of wax carving and have difficulty turning the flat design into a 3 d design. Thankyou Patsy

Thank you for your fine tutorial. I was able to reproduce an antique brass drawer pull using your method. I used a different method to melt, the metal pail with lump charcoal. Your method of making the mould was my guide. I am very grateful to you. Btw, your taste in jewelry pieces is excellent.

we did that sort of casting when I was in High School, in our art class. I made a silver ring that I sculpted using jeweler's wax. :)

Thank you so much for a very descriptive video, and it helps so much. These are the videos I really appreciate. Thank you

Nice Job! I made my own greensand before, but I want to try delft clay / petrobond next for those extra detailed pieces!

Another great video Randy! Thank you!

Excellent and well explained!!👍👍.

Might I suggest old cut up tire inner-tubes to hold the flask together. Awesome! I've been pouring into graphite & wood I carve out, but I can only do so much with that, and graphite is so messy. I look like a coal miner or chimney sweep after I'm all done. Thanks for all the tips, and thank you 4 crushing 👊🏼🐻

Grat video, thanks so much for sharing! So much valuable info

Another great video... thank you. 🙏👍👍

Great vid....much thanks for the tool list as well THANK YOU!!!

Thank you I’m going to try that

Thanks again for the demonstration

Wow Awesome 👏 👏👏

Great Video!!! Thank you for the links!!

Awesome vid!

Dude, I thank you! I have watched many videos about this and am only 6 months in on melting and now casting items, i like to find interesting things and re create them with the exact same flask and sand your using. I've had so many hiccups until today. After watching this twice i put on my big boy pants and tried for the 8th time to replicate a "punisher bottle opener/multitool" i found. It was flat on both sides but had some detail and notches and holes which i was never able to get right, until now. I did it 3 times following your method and came out great. the drill bit for a spru was a great idea! Just saying thank you and I'm off to melt and make more stuff!!

Thank you for making your videos!! You are awesome!!! 😁😁😁😁💗💎

Excellent video, keep doing these great videos

спасибо за отличную идею!

Thx for the video!

It's really good

Thank you, I just subscribed

Nice. I think I would’ve used a wax impression for small work like this. It catches the details better.

i would honestly not worry how they work out like i sed in the first one they look genuine they look good dings chips wangs make them look good aged leave well alone

this was the channel i was looking for !! thank you

back in HS we never tossed out the burnt oil sand. Just mixed it back in and away we go. It would last a very very long time even with burnt bits. It would over time darken the sands but the teacher would just refresh it a bit over the course of the year and we did loads of sand casting in our shop. So when you did the second side that was literally flat why on earth did you pack it on top of the other one? We used aluminum, copper and bronze. I liked the aluminum and bronze the most.

Muy bien 👌👍

I'm a fan of your page and I would just like to list a few know-how things that you may be able to do videos on that I would absolutely love to watch 1. the full process of melting, recycled tin, aluminum/aluminium, glass, clay, or plastic and, casting/ printing them for different creations. 2. A video over your creations as a artist 3. 3d prints, your printer of choice with a review and, your printing process 4. laser printed mold process if you're familiar with this and have the devices to do so / laser prints 5. axidraw stuff and the processes, if you also have experience in this kind of field. 6. your creative process 7. your choice of 3d print filaments 8. reviews reviews reviews 9. your experience marketing your art 10. videos where you experiment 11. what got you into these kinds of things and your story You and your videos are highly appreciated!

Those scarab pendant look ancient , just like they have come straight out of a pyramid, the pits etc add to the aged look.

Nice explanation and video, what i saw in other tutorial is that they make the canal with a curve, not straight, could be that a reason that some pieces you get that irregular part?

Haha , when you uncovered your piece I said " pretty cool at the same time you did lol.. yup definitely cool thanks for the info. I can't wait to get into this

Great tutorial as always...maybe you could add a little peg to the back of the printed template, in the design phase, to be able to pull it out of the sand easily.

Graphite powder instead of baby powder on the delft clay surface that comes in contact with the hot brass, silver etc gives a nicer surface , less pitting. Other tip: make first some copies of your model in lead or pewter in your delft clay, using baby powder ( graphite does not improve the pewters surface) now you have a multiple good positives to put in the delft clay. About the scarab: I did 12 brass smileys last week, 6,5 cm diameter and 4,5 mm thick, and the first one I did flask laying flat, details down, flat side up. The pooring channel in the centre if the smiley. Result: a lot of pitting on back and even front. Next poor, I made the pooring channel 2 cm outside the smiley, cutting the entry channel from there horizontally into the smiley. Result: 100% better. Used graphite to cover the clay surface. So, just my bit here...

Awesome video.. wat exact model resin printer was used to do the 3d piece thank you and much success

Question, I'm dealing with Delft clay for a while, is possible to add water or oil to it after become a little too dry? Thanks !!! Love the channel

Hello there! Nice video! What kind of torch did you use? How much time did it take you to melt silver? Can I melt a small amount of copper with this torch?

You could improve the quality by improving the ventilation and sprues and by adding a pour funnel that can provide molten metal as the casting cools, reducing bubbles and shrink deficits.

Hello. My hobby is sand casting. I can tell You how to cast this scarabs without errors.

Is a good work

What is the best and most economical heat source and torch for melting the silver ? I have been using propane with a regular torch, silver will melt but won’t flow. Please help 😁

I forgot to add! With flat-backed pieces, you have to put air vents in the back to prevent inclusions!

I'm concerned about how toxic 3-D Resin printing is. I was going to go with that, until I saw a video showing how the air continues to be at a maximum hazard even hours after printing. That's with people using ventilation as well..... Would it be possible to use PLA filament in an FDM 3-D printer, and still do fine in sand or clay casting? Maybe the answer should be obvious but I'm new to 3-D printing.

Have you tried making more than one mold in the delft clay for a single pouring? It seems this one might work for that

is it best to use a resin printer or can you get away with a normal pla fdm printer?

Curious what would happen if you only did one side of the mold and poured metal in that way? Also, can this be used with brass?

The baby powder adds texture you don’t need to use it before the first print, use it after that’s why your piece has that powdery texture

I saw some casters using a small air bellows to remove dust and a sitck with glue to lift the 3D Print up without damaging the impression in the clay. Could that help?

Good times

Is there a way to cast items without them looking pitted or having a bad finish? I don’t like the grainy end result. Thanks

I prefer the UNperfect version of that ( min 1:40 ) instead of the more ''perfect one'' , i just think it LOOKS more ''old'' (as if its from ancient times) ,i personally just like old-looking things more (as a collector of a lot of small figures or jewelry from mainly asia :india/thailand & china)

I tried for my first time to sandcast a pendant , i’m not sure if I did say over or what happened but I wish there was someway I could send you a picture of what I did, and you could tell me or give me some tips on what I did wrong or what I need to do the next time I try to cast this piece. Can you help me. Deborah

Beginner's question: what is better to use this method with casting sand or use the method with plaster mold casting? the plaster casting looks like be the industry standard and I am not sure but looks like can be done in artisanal way too, I ask because the pieces from plaster cast are sharp and clean while this ones with clay arent as shrarp

do you think clay casting or wax casting faster than forging a piece or is it only convenient for mass production

I've watched many casting videos, you're first to say carve the air escape channels on back side of sand and that MAPP gas is borderline for melting the silver. Good to know. Were you using true delft clay? It looks kinda coarse.

Umm.. I also have delft clay. How can you get the molding flask? I need so much

Which is better for an ingot mold, cast iron or stainless steel?

Hi there, What is the dark coating on top of your bench pin?? Is it setter's cement?? Curiosity is killing me! Thanks 😸

Will propane + oxygen be hot enough as I already have an oxygen concentrator for lampworking beads

Following your link to purchase one! This video was awesome! You said you bought the flask and sand kit? Did the kit come with enough sand?

Awesome video! Can you reuse the sand after the pouring or you have to throw it out? :) Thanks!

The back of your item is flat. Why do you need the top layer of the flask when you can just pour your metal directly on the other half as you would an ingot? I’m confused.

Hey-- I dont know if you'll ever see this comment, but I'm trying to make a medallion with no experience and have a question. Why does the model have to be 3d printed in resin? Why can't it be done in regular plastic filament, and if it can what are the issues that using resin resolves? I only have access to a regular 3d printer and im wondering if it's still possible.

Is there a reason you centered it? Instead of placing it closer to the top of the funnel?

which affordable 3d printer you recommend

as a moulder 4get the lump hammer use a wooden mallet and u dont need 2 use a brush just sprinkle it over the mould and u only need the draw lines at bottom as u r puoring from the top .myself i would have gone from the side and made 2 instead of 1.u have a lot 2 learn there should have been no flashing as we called it.less grinding.sorry but next time use the drill in the begining instead of doing it later part 2 lay the flat side down 1st and get some bellows

The silver is too turbulent when filling your mold. That's the reason for the pitting. It's either air or sand that moved from the turbulence of the molten silver.

Baking soda works if you don't have anything else like Telcom or baby powder.

Know it’s been a year, but do you have a vid on how to get that glaze on your crucible?

Что это за песок такой кирпичного цвета ,?

I wonder if you would mind telling me the part of the country where you grew up. You use an interesting dialectical phrase I have heard occasionally and have always wondered the region where it is used.

Reason why you're getting pits for, is because of gases in the metal, green clay is not fine enough or contaminants in either.

How to make the plastic disc please

what the sand is？

Please tell me what's the components of the sand

Were i can Buy a sandcasting

whats the brand of this sand

Can you do this with aluminum

I came for the 3D printing. I stayed for the Horror. Having worked in 2 foundries, I see so much done wrong. Use G clams to hold the mould together It reduces flashing. Never rubber bands. Why press the pattern into the flat surface? it creates the missing parts. Place it on top and create the second part of the mould. for more 3D patterns make half in the mould bottom and half in the top. Print the sprue with the pattern where possible. it saves time. for instance.. With the scarab I would print a sprue to the right size for the mould. Pack the sand around it and make it flat. add the the scarab face up and the second part of the mould and pack the sand on top. Then extract the patterns (use a small screw hole on the sprue.) and if you are smart a tab on the scarab when you made space for it on the sprue pattern. Create some vent holes, clamp it tightly and then pour the metal

Could one do rings this way?

Dont use the baby powder on the objekt and you will get a better surface.

I think using a heat press would work better/more evenly than hammering.

Why not just do half & pour directly into the impression?

Oddly light silver. Those look to be about the size of 1 oz rounds, yet weigh half as much. I'm fairly certain it's the depth of the piece, but....the depth actually looks about right too, and you have the scarab section that's popping out, which should add some weight. No much, but some. Even if this was sterling silver; 7.5% copper, which weighs roughly 5.5g to silvers 6.5g for the same cubic area of material. It would at most account for about a gram of weight or so.

Propane burns at 3,596° F MAP gas burns at 3,730° F Oxy acetalene burns at 6,300° F You said your kiln reaches 2,000°, and Idk if you meant celcius, or fahrenheit, but even if you meant celcius, that's still only 3,632° F, which would barely be hotter than the propane torch. Idk what metal you're using that you think you need a flame hotter than 3,596° F when platinum, gold, silver, copper, brass, bronze, iron, and even steel (both carbon and stainless) all have melting points below 3000° F, and titanium's melting point is 3,038° F which is still well below the burn temperature of propane. 6,300° F obviously will heat things up faster, but it's certainly not required unless you're working with something like tungsten, or molybdenum.

man, those scarab beetles are baaaad sandcast. I was able to get a way better results with cheap ass petrobond sand and a 3d printed flask. Dust your print in a cornstarch, and it will release better from the clay, and use more force to impress it, make sure it does not moove untill you are ready to take it off from sand and overheat your metal of choice and your cast should be way better.

Banyak omong

For your health's sake, please don't send so much talc powder flying around! Breathing in mineral powder is a good way to ruin your lungs in the long run. You could use corn starch. It's still not healthy to breathe but at least your body should be able to get rid of it whereas talc powder will stay inside your lungs until the end. And make it happen sooner. Also I guess you now learned about it from other people, but you can put talc/corn starch in a sock to dispense just the right amount you need instead of blowing it around in the air you breathe. . BTW, baby powder is talc with maybe a little baby oil (scented mineral oil) in it. Gosh the unhealthy stuff we subject our babies to. Your Petrobond material very coarse! I wonder if they make it in different grades. For the rest this is a nice recount of what a newbie in this technique can expect. It tells us what to pay attention to and many things to avoid doing.

Can we do about 5-6 mm dia sizes with this casting ?