Would love to get some tractor advice from you. I have a 2030 that has stopped moving, after sitting out under open sky for a week. Hydraulics work well. Back PTO engages. but it just won't move once put in gear. not grinding, at least i feel no griding sounds or vibrations. Clutch pedal goes in well. I mean I'm able to engage the back PTO no problem. Wheels are not locked, cuz we tried towing it and it rolls free.
Great video, I just purchased a 2130 and would love to redo it! I have had a hard time finding videos on how to fix certain things! I can not figure out how to fix right side brakes on mine. I am so glad there are people like you that will take the time to make quality videos like this. Thanks again!
Tom Nash i liked it A jonh Deeere 2040s 1971 model and would like anyone ready to help me on maintainance pertaining service and also how to keep it still serving longer
Era Messa Male... ma la Revisione che gli Hai Fatto ..l'ha Rimesso in Sesto il Tuo Cervo ...io ho un 6520 Se del 2004 è ne sono Fiero! Saluti da Ennio dall' Italia a Te Josh!
Thanks for the video. Wonder if anyone can help me. I have a 2130. Just changed the oil/filter with 8.5 liters (as specified in the manual). It is 1 1/2" above full. What could be wrong? Thanks.
Hi there Just if u still have it Would u send me a video clip or picture of the set up of the remotes and loader I am working on how to set up remotes on it Thanks man
Hey that was a great video. I have a 2030 and it is a great tractor but the fuel line from the pump to the fuel tank developed a leak from rubbing against another line. I got a fuel line from dealer but appears to be the wrong one. I could not fine a shut off vaulve from the fuel tank and the line from the pump appears to connect the the hydraulic pump. Please help.
Hey love your videos by the way, I am interested in maybe talking to you about your rebuild on your 2030, I am starting a engine rebuild/full restoration on my grandfathers old 2030 that he bought new, wanted to ask you where u got the radiator to cause this one is going to need one, I'm new to this messaging stuff so please forgive me☺
Greetings and salutations Alex colombia I am planning on buying a 2030 Don’t know the model but the grandson is selling it to me now Any ways don’t know if it is a Diesel or gas Would u please help me out if I send u the video ? Thanks in advance
I have a JD 2640 with almost the same engine that I have to do the same job to it. Mine has more hours on it, though. I hope I can ask you a bunch of questions. Did you replace your oil pump? How could you tell your crank was OK? I would sure like to talk with you.
I didn't replace the oil pump. As I mentioned in the video, this was actually a low hour and tight engine. Had the cooling system been maintained with anti rust additives then I would have never gotten the pin hole in the #1 cylinder causing the water to infiltrate the oil system. That was sparked this rebuild and not general wear & tear. If your engine in high hour and then it may be a good idea to rebuild oil pump. Crankshaft can be inspected from below. The journals on the crankshaft are MUCH harder material then the bearing material so unless you spun a bearing or ran it with very dirty oil the crank should be fine. You may want to split the tractor and go ahead and do a full overhaul vs in-frame rebuild like I did. A machine shop can check your journal and polish them as needed. If they remove material to true up the surface you will need to buy oversized bearings depending on how much material they remove.
Great video! I have a 1973 JD 820 that I'm about to do the same thing to. Were you able to change the main bearings with the engine still inframe? The engine on yours is almost exact to mine, just one less cylinder for me.
+CK1 The bearings were in such good condition (low hour tractor) that I elected to only change the rod bearings. However you should be able to change the main bearings in frame. You remove the main bearing cap one at at a time and use the new bearing to "roll" the old bearing out while simultaneously rolling the new one in. Just be sure to pay attention to the way the notches are oriented and that the new one goes in the same orientation as the existing bearing. Lots of assembly lube and take it nice and easy. Then torque it down and move on to the next main. If you have any other questions, I'm here to help any way I can.
+Josh_Outdoors Thanks for the reply, will take you up on the question part! The only other one I can think of now is that my service manual says that when putting the liners in you may have to shim them to get the correct height above the block. Was that an issue on yours?
+CK1 It was not an issue for me since everything came back into tolerance. You WILL want to confirm the spacing however with a straight edge and a feeler gauge to make sure that the spacing is within the spec in the manual. Also, sometimes the sleeves want to "pop" up out of the block probably because of the lubricating soap you will use when installing them and because of the tight tolerance in the block itself. If this is happening you may need to use a stack of washers and one of the head bolts to tighten down and hold the sleeve "pressed" into the block so you can get a true measurement with the feeler gauge. Depending on how your deck is laid out, you should be able to do two sleeves with one bolt and larger washer to span 2 sleeves at a time.
+Josh_Outdoors Thanks for the quick answers and advice, I plan on starting the rebuild in about a month so may have a few more questions as I get into it.
Did you have to make a decision on how much to take off of the surface of the head? Or did you just leave it to the machine shop to "be sure it's flat?" Did the machine shop make the decisions on fitting the new valves? What will I have to be ready to tell the machine shop? I'd like to do what you did and get all the valves replaced.
FInd a reputable shop in your area and tell them to check the straightness of the head (they will plane only as much as needed) and them you want "the valves worked" They will check the guides, springs, seating surfaces etc.
