John Deere 2030 diesel tractor rebuild. Part 2

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Part 2 of the in frame rebuild on my John Deere 2030 diesel engine. Please be sure to watch part 1.
Recommended Earplugs: amzn.to/3KuTdZY
Prybar set: amzn.to/3J3W7Ez
Pre Assembly Lube CRITICAL for rebuild: amzn.to/367Yish
Plastiguage for measuring bearing clearance: amzn.to/3643u0i
Gloves: amzn.to/3hRJ6BU
Deadblow Hammer: amzn.to/3sUsUGz

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16 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 22

@ennio8395 7 лет назад

Complimenti Josh ! Lo Rimetti a Nuovo!! Onore alla Competenza e che hai!

@mrfixitup 8 лет назад

Great job! Thanks again for such a quality video!

@sunrise7ranch85 8 лет назад

+mrfixitup Thanks for watching!

@oscarronquillo7794 8 лет назад

very smart guy...

@jimbuford4147 8 лет назад

I am a new subscriber and enjoying your video on the John Deere. It would be a help to me if I could see you do some of the actual work and you could narrate as you do it. Thanks a lot.

@joshborlo8261 8 лет назад

Very nice!

@codyjeremiah7959 8 лет назад

Good video

@amossaina8596 Год назад

Kindly let me know what kind of parts you used...which manufacturers?

@sunrise7ranch85 Год назад

Im sorry. It has been so many years now I don't remember for sure. Most came from a website called yesterdays tractors.

@brettknoss486 7 лет назад

Is the cam shafts in the block?

@justinfranco7179 5 лет назад

Josh, did you have to use a special tool to rotate the engine when installing the sleeves / piston assemblies? How did you go about doing this? Great video series!

@sunrise7ranch85 5 лет назад

Hey Justin, Thanks for watching. I assume you mean rotating the camshaft in which case you would put a socket on a breaker bar and put it on the main pulley. You can rotate as you wish. Its absolutely necessary to be able to rotate your engine not only for installation of pistons and bearings but also to adjust your valve lash later in re-assembly.

@jasonh3030 2 года назад

Seems like a long shot you will see this but what tool do you use to remove the oil pump screen? The bolts on mine are specialty type bolts that look like inverted torx type bolts

@sunrise7ranch85 2 года назад

I left the oil pump as is. It was a relatively low hour tractor and didnt need that part overhauled.

@gsmith6097 8 лет назад

How did you clean your block before the rebuild? You mentioned "assembly lube" for the push rods..........help me out......what is this, exactly? Did you replace your oil pump? Or clean the old one in any way?

@sunrise7ranch85 8 лет назад

I didn't clean the block at all because it was pretty clean. Assembly lube can be purchased at auto parts stores. It is a thick moly grease that is oil soluble so that it doesn't interfere with the engine oil at start up.

@sunrise7ranch85 8 лет назад

Also no I didn't mess with the oil pump. It has thousands of hours left in the oil pump

@gsmith6097 8 лет назад

You said you took them to the JD dealer and they "ran the numbers" on them. You're talking about part numbers? Or did they mic them and determine they were original? How much wear on a bearing before it's too much and you won't use it again? When you bought new bearings, what size? Original size, since you didn't grind the crank?

@sunrise7ranch85 8 лет назад

Yes they ran part numbers. Bearings are cheap, replace them. Period.Yes, I went back with standard bearings but I also confirmed clearance with plastiguage when I installed them. Always always confirm clearance with plastiguage. It is CHEAP insurance.

@humblesmith 8 лет назад

My engine has more hours on it than yours. I'm concerned that there might be a bit more wear in there than yours.....maybe an out-of-round crank. Doing an inframe rebuild, is it OK to put new bearings on an old crank without pulling & machining the crank? Thanks a BUNCH.

@sunrise7ranch85 8 лет назад

G. Smith What do your bearings look like? If they never spun and the surface of your crank journals look polished then it is highly unlikely that your crank is out of round. The crank is made of much much harder material than the bearing so if anything wears it should be the bearing under normal operating conditions(no bearings were spun, galded or it was ran without oil etc.) An in-frame rebuild is exactly what you described. Replacing the bearings without pulling the crank. If the journals look good and then you should be fine. Get a proper in frame rebuild kit and go from there.