Using my JD 445, with Little Buck Loader and Piranha Toothbar, and Sure-Trac dump trailer, to move a large pile of rocks and rubble for a friend. The pile had been there for several years and was packed very hard.
This is a godsend for people who can't afford a 1025R but still need to move material AND it can load into a trailer. This is a True Loader not a Johnny Bucker.
Thanks for making these great videos on the 425 and 445! I may be buying a 425 from a neighbor next week with the 54" snowblower. I like the idea of putting the larger tires on the 425.
Have you noticed any increase in the wear and tear on the front end parts due to using the Buck loader, particularly for rock and/or gravel work? Also due to the extra work duty do you change the transaxle fluid more often?
These tractors are well built and strong. I have not noticed any wear resulting from my use of the LBL. I think it is also worth noting that even though a JD40 loader is attached at the center of the chassis, it is heavier and most of the overhang force is still being applied to the front of the tractor. Definitey good to change hydro fluid more frequntly when using the hydraulics alot.
@@tesser5250 Manual says to change hydro/tranny fluid every 200 hours. I suppose that is the minimum. I end up changing oil annually as I don't hit the hours usage mark.
Hi, and thank you for the very informative videos. I'm looking into purchasing a Little Buck Loader, but I'm concerned about its ability to handle lots of gravel for a new house and driveway. It appears that the bucket is make out of 1/8 inch or 3/16 inch steel, can you tell how thick the steel is? It appears that the "arm" of the bucket are 2x3 inch steel tubing. Can you tell if it is 1/8 or 3/16 inch steel. I'm kinda an "over build" guy, so the more steel the better for me. Again, thanks for the great videos.
The bucket steel looks to be 1/8" and the 2"×3" tubing is a much heavier gauge. It looks like 1/4" to me, but I would recommend you call the father and son team at LBL. They always seem very responsive. I have successfully completed multiple projects on my property, moving and grading many tons of crushed stone. I do have a piranha tooth bar (see my other videos) fitted that I feel adds considerable torsional strength to the bucket...
It looks lie you have a three point hitch on the back. Why doesn't it go up and down when you use the hydraulics on the bucket? Is there a way to lock it?
Yes, there is a hydraulic shut off valve that separates the hitch from the bucket hyadraulics. If you check out my other videos you will find a video where I show how to fit one.
I just put a Little Buck Loader on my 445. Do the ag tires make a big difference in traction? Mine still has the stock turf tires but I'm considering switching them out. Thanks!
I see you have ballast on the back. After using my loader for the first time I realize the importance. So I am going to build a ballast box. I have two designs in mind. One design is an old pressure tank filled with concrete that should weight about 400 to 420 pounds. The second design is a metal frame that would hold concrete filled cement blocks. Each block weights 80 pounds and has a plastic coated wire handle for ease of handling. I would build it to hold six or eight blocks weighing a total of 480 and 640 pounds respectivly. The blocks would alow me to cutomize the weight. So my question is how much weight is enough and how much is too much?
Not sure I can offer a precise answer because there are many variables, but I would be more concerned about carrying too little counter weight rather than too much. The more load weight at the front, the more counter weight is required at the rear. Obviously, instability caused by load is not just a question of how heavy the load, but also how far forward and how high it is carried. Conversely, the effectiveness of counter weight is impacted by how far back and how low it can be placed. I have each of my rear tires loaded with 80 lbs of liquid ballast (one of my other videos). Plus, I normally carry eight JD 20kg (44 lbs) suitcase weights hung on my 3 pt hitch receiver adapter. That amounts to 542 lbs, which allows me to fully utilize my loader. So that is the weight of loader and loads of probably up to 300 lbs or so...
Very inefficient loading that’s for sure why didn’t he reverse to the side of the pile? He would have only had to turn 90 degrees rather than the way he’s doing it you’ll be there all day at that rate lol maybe he’s uncomfortable with his abilities to operate the machine
It is a little light for that work, but the rear tires are loaded, each with about 80lbs of fluid. I would normally have additional suitcase weights on the rear hitch.
The loader arms are bending the wheel weights are dragging on the ground the tractor is struggling why not use the John Deere loader and what is wrong with the weight bracket
Several things wrong with the LBL. First, the bucket is too far forward. Second the bucket is too wide for a tractor of this size. Third, the bucket is too shallow allowing material to fall on the tractor/operator if the bucket is fully up and the bucket is inadvertently tilted back. Overall, just poorly designed. My design has the bucket only 9 inches from the front of the tractor. The bucket is 32 inches wide, perfect for engaging packed earth. The bucket, when fully loaded, holds exactly one 6 cubic foot wheelbarrow load. The lift arms have two 1.5 inch cylinders, giving much more mechanical advantage than this design. My design, requires much less counter weight. I could go on, but you get the drift!