John Deere 47" Snowblower Rebuild 

Thank you, Sir!😊👍🏽

It's as close to new as I can get it to be. The paintjob laid down really well and the whole rotating assembly feels nice and tight. This snow blower has worked really well for me the last winter and it came in handy to clean some paths. This winter I didn't need to clean anything, because we haven't had any real snowfall.

Hey Juan, I'm glad you were able to assemble your chute cables properly and get it working again! I slowed that part of the video down a little bit, because I knew someone out there would need to know how the cables are arranged. Thanks for viewing and leaving as AWESOME comment! Enjoy your functional snowblower now. Regards Andreas

@Workshop Rebuild I bought my f1145 used a few months ago with the 48" blower, a 72" deck & broom. My blower arrived with a slightly different cable setup than yours: - The wire rope I replaced was only 1/8", which I matched during repair. Yours appears to be either 3/16" or 1/4" cable - Mine didnt have a single cable setup: it had 2 equal lengths that overlapped about 6" at one end. At that overlap, 2 ferrules create a "fixed-loop" which is then secured on the center (moving) pulley assembly. Tough to convey, but the result is essentially the same as your single-cable stock setup. All told, If I'd seen your vid before committing to the repair parts and procedure I would have used the larger diameter cable and the single run approach. However, your vid did correct my cable routing and I am very grateful! Again, you did a refreshingly detailed yet efficient job of conveying your excellent restoration project. Very impressive! We all wish that EVERYBODY would approach their DIY posts with the same no-BS ethos. Cheers.

@@juanf2493 The cable I have on this blower is 1/4" and the pulleys accept the cable perfectly. Even with a thinner cable this chute mechanism should work just fine! I really don't see much need for a 1/4" cable...unless the whole mechanism is seized HAHA. I'm really glad you were able to find value within this video and hopefully your blower will work the way it should along side your JD F1145. I heard they were really well built and very capable of many different tasks! If you can keep that machine up and running for a couple years, you can get a lot of work done. Thank you once again for your awesome comment! I will try to make more videos this in the future. Regards Andreas

Thank you very much, I appreciate your comment! You just picked up an awesome attachment for winter snow removal. The 59" snowblower is a beast and I bet you'll be able to clear a lot of snow in a short period of time. Will this be your first time using a snowblower? Regards Andreas

@@WorkshopRebuild Yes it's a huge blower and I got it for a great price. I have never used a tractor mounted snowblower before so I look forward to trying it out. Do you know if the u-joint on the short drive line inside the blower housing is replaceable? Mine is a little loose and missing the grease zerk. I also wonder if I should remove a keyway in the secondary driveshaft as I've heard of people stalling tractor or worse breaking the $300 yoke if something gets jammed in the secondary blower wheel. Looks like you installed the keyway? One on each side of the main gearbox.

Hi there! Thank you for your feedback😃👍🏽

Hi there, the part numbers for the seals can be found here: www.weingartz.com/assembly-diagram/john-deere-parts-lookup/model-47-in-2-stage-snow-blower-4100-compact-utility-tractor-with-quick-tatch-pc1926-pto-gear-case-tractors-318-322-332-420-430/4275-888-501262 I hope this helps. Regards Andreas

To replace the seal, you don't necessarily have to remove the worm gear. you can take out the old seal, and slide a new one on...making sure you cover the spline with something as you push the seal over the shaft. here you can see a drawing of this assembly: www.weingartz.com/assembly-diagram/john-deere-parts-lookup/model-47-in-2-stage-snow-blower-4100-compact-utility-tractor-with-quick-tatch-pc1926-blower-gear-drive-front-mowers-f910-f911-f912-f915-f925-/4275-888-560053 The worn gear is removed from the front and you'd have to remove the "gearcase plug", but if that's not leaking I wouldn't do it. It's just more work. I hope this helps. Regards Andreas

The mounting hardware is specifically for a John Deere 855, but it can be used for any 55 series compact tractor (655,755,855,955). The 47" snowblowers can be found on many other garden tractors like the 318, 322, 330, 332, 420 and 430. I'm not sure if the John Deere 400 had this type of snowblower back in the day, because they went into production in 1975. I think JD started producing these a bit later...maybe in the early 80's. Given that the front PTO of the JD 400 is rated at 2100rpm this snowblower should technically work. One would have to make custom mounting hardware and find a suitable PTO shaft. Some important information about this snowblower: -The PTO speed must be ~2000rpm at the shaft in order to operate this blower correctly -The input shaft of this snowblower turns clockwise -Hydraulics are needed to lift/lower the blow -Hydraulics are needed to rotate the snowblower chute If you're looking for one of these blowers, I still have one that is available. Thanks for asking a great question. Regards Andreas

Hi Adam, I did not replace that u-joint because it did not have any wear nor did it have any unusual play! U-joints are always serviceable, but JD does not want you to know that HAHA! I do not have the sizes of this u-joint myself, but it's really easy to measure them! You only need two sizes: The bearing cup diameter and the overall width/length, once you remove it. These u-joints are either measured in metric or imperial, so just see what measurement is closest to a full number! Here is the link: bit.ly/3B0D6RE I hope this helps and if you have any questions, feel free to reach out again. Regards Andreas

@@WorkshopRebuild Thanks for the reply! In my video here: ru-vid.comb4UC_0Cdrlc the impeller joint is REALLY bad. I've since replaced it with a newer used joint. It's better, but also has play. I'll have to take some measurements and see if I can find a compatible u-joint. Also, do you have any recommendations on how to take some play out of the shaft/yoke? You can kind of see what's going on in the beginning of my video. Thinking about removing the shaft, having it welded then machined back down for a tighter fit.

@@adamj.1645 Hi Adam, sorry for my late reply! I just viewed your video and I can see wear on your yoke from the gearbox out to the short driveshaft. Once you take this apart and clean both parts then you will be able to identify the wear. If you have excess wear on the yoke, then that could be replaced (best alternative). If the shaft is also worn, I have a feeling you have a bigger issue and that is within the gearbox. The joint on the inside of the snowblower is VERY BAD and I believe the bearings within your gearbox are shot. Hopefully not to the point where the shafts are damaged, because this would get very expensive!!! Your best option is to take it all apart and replace it as much as you can now, or else you'll have even bigger issues. Getting rid of play is not very easy on a splined shaft. I would have recommended "Shim-Stock" on a straight shaft to keep the yoke in place, but this has a spline...so I'm not sure what one can do. If you want, update me once your parts are clean and I'll try my best to help! Regards Andreas