There's a 6mm hex on the top of the trans belt guide bolt. I used a cheap flexible right angle extension on my impact with a long 6mm bit. Took 5 seconds to take it out
Hi Mike! I have an LA145 and I've watched a few of your videos. Excellent presentations - very clear and especially helpful calling out the bolt sizes so I had them all queued up and within arms reach. I do notice that you often don't do the installation part, just the disassembly, and then note that the install is in reverse - and that should pretty much cover it. I will note that I almost tore the wires off the clutch because I didn't notice that there was a steel tab that needs to slip inside the slot in the plate between the clutch and the deck pulley. Fortunately I took the tractor for a test spin after putting it all back together, but before remounting the mower deck. When I started to install the deck, I noticed that the wire clip on the clutch wasn't facing forward anymore, and then found that I could spin the clutch assembly around, stretching the wires to the max. After a closer inspection I figured it out, and no damage was done. So, perhaps you might consider adding a little cautionary comment at the end of this video, and the clutch replacement video which is cut from this one, to make certain to slip that tab into the slot to keep the clutch in place. At any rate, please keep up the good work - your videos are far better than most.
Your video was very helpful! Especially taking the bolt out of the top of the transmission. I thought it going to hit the fan but it came on passed it. It was a beast to get out and just as bad going back. Thanks again!
Wow! This was fantastic and saved me so much time. Piece of cake to change out the pulleys at the same time. The impact wrench made this SO much easier. My only difference is on the front pulley, the belt guide bracket was not removable. I just had to slip the entire pulley assembly down, and then slide it all back up once the belt was around the pulley. Thank you very much for this video!
Thank you so much. The video was great. Changed the belt this evening after work. The only difference was the same thing that Stephen said below. The belt guides were actually part of the frame on my LA 145. I followed his advice and removed those 4 bolts holding the engine on and the bracket in front of the motor and was able to lift the motor enough to wiggle the belt on there. (Also - good to remind folks to remember to note the way that the belt runs through those two guide pulleys in the first step.) Thanks again!
Dang I didn’t realize those guides were like that, that sounds like a PIA. Changing the drive belt is one of the harder things to do on a lawn tractor. Glad the video helped
@@MowerMike Mine too. 4 Bolts and guess I'll have to lift the motor. My transmission belt retaining bolt was more like 15... I say "like" becasue 5/8 was bug enough to catch the corners and it worked. 9/16 or 14mm would not go over the bolt. Got it though! Nice Vid!!
Great Video. Especially the tip for NON IMPACT wrench owners (Around the 4:00 mark). Great help. Kept me from running out to Harbor Freight. However - as noted by others my LA145 did not have the easy remove guard on the belt at the pulley. And to add to it, the pulley was frozen in place. Much consternation and creativity followed - allowing me to free it. The Three key steps being... - One; find a spot to see the top of the pulley. Between the frame and under the motor. Get much Liquid Wrench or other penetrant on the top side. I used small tube to get the liquid wrench on to the shaft. - Two; tap with rubber mallet. Rotating the shaft around to tap from all angles. Heated the shaft with Heat Gun to get the penetrant moving. -Three: using a vise grip with Jaws covered with an Inner Tube rubber sleeve to latch on. Then leverage wrench against the frame with above mentioned mallet. Driving the shaft down. Great joy when penetrant seeped through. Almost done. Just need to pull the steering column and re-thread. Did this while having it all broken down to refill the Transmission. So, the Pin on the Transmission was already off. My poor tractor couldn't climb hills without wheezing. QUESTION: Any torque values for Pulleys and Shaft - appreciated. Excellent Video production. 5 Stars.
Thanks for the comment. Sounds like you are going all out. I like the idea about using the inner tube, very cool. No idea on the torque specs, just tighten it down by hand and you should be good. Good luck you are almost there!
@@MowerMike Mower transmission refill and new belt - completed. Wahoo! Mower ran like a champ. I will get the deck back on later this week. Thanks to you. And all the others who take the time to help.
My 145 is about 16 years old. My keeper on the front of the belt doesn't have the removable three prong shroud. It's built into the frame. Just requires unbolting the engine and raising it enough to get the belt off.not a big problem, just unexpected..thanks for your video. Great job!
Couple of tips from my first experience doing this. The idler pulleys don't have to be completely removed to undo the drive belt, just loosen most of the threads. Makes reinstallation easier. The pulley above the clutch comes off the shaft when the clutch is removed on my model. There's no separate guard to remove. The last guide pin: use a ring wrench instead of an open ended wrench. Can just fit it over the pin then hold it in place with a reach around behind the wheel with another hand, assuming you have two. Got the pin off in 5 minutes or less.
My pulley was frozen. Which means the shaft likely needed some lube love along the way. I'd recommend getting lube to the shaft before the freeze. If you are invested in keeping it serviceable just carefully drop the pulley grease the thing and keep it smooth. But obviously you know your way around the tractor if you already replaced the belt. Also - are you now the Lord of the Wrench Ring - so closed minded. 😉 🚜
Thank you for posting. Did it today and it's very helpful! 2 thoughts: I found my tractor jack very helpful for getting the impact tool under the clutch. I also found with the tractor jacked I could wrap my arms around the rear differential, which was awkward but made that really tough bolt much better, so I sould hold and guide with one hand and use the wrench with the other. I found flipping the wrench each pull slightly faster. Thx for sharing!
Video was great, my LA175 was a little different (maybe model year change?). Everything was spot on except the bracket for the front pulley. The belt guides were part of the frame. I was able to undo the 4 15mm bolts holding the motor in place, remove the bracket on top of frame in front of motor (2 10mm bolts) and lift the motor up enough to slide belt off the pulley. Just wanted to throw it out there for anyone who has an LA175 similar to mine. Edited to add just realized this was an LA145, however everything was the same except what I mentioned above. Thanks for the video!
@@MowerMike it’s been a good one! Been passed down twice and been on RU-vid a lot the past few years replacing various parts. Love the content, glad I found the page!
Same problem on mine. A little more RU-vid searching revealed that the entire pulley drops off with the clutch, releasing the belt. Much simpler. Had to loosen it with a little judicious use of a rubber mallet, but was pretty easy
Yes with a little bit of encouragement the whole pulley slides down and releases the belt. I replaced the belt for the second time today and this video along with this adaptation from @Hugh Graham made it extremely smooth. That little bolt back by the fan is really a pain!
Thanks so much for the video. Changed my belt today. I couldn’t find the right socket for my (wo)man tool impact driver so I appreciated the work around. My ratchet handles are short so I had to add a breaker bar. I’ll try to post a pic. That little threaded rod was a pain but when I got it out I saw it had impressions in the top that might work with an Allen wrench, so going back in I used a short 7/32 one to help get it in.I still used an open end wrench as well. Also the wrench size on mine was 15 mm for this by the way. I’m a woman with small hands so the Allen wrench thing might not work for everyone. Had to turn the fan blade to get it in there. Anyway thanks again! Also this old lady appreciated the guns 😜
Meredith! This is my favorite comment of all time thank you sooo much for the kind words. You are more legit than all the no tool having guys that watch me, you have your own impact and found that there was a hex head on top of that pesky bolt. I had no idea that was there, great pro tip. I am doing the next video sleeveless just for you lol ;)
Thanks for the video! A few additions: 1. That steering gear was not coming off no matter how hard I yanked the steering wheel from above. LEARN FROM MY MISTAKE, use the socket you used to remove the steering nut to strike the gear with a hammer to knock it loose, DO NOT STRIKE THE STEERING COLUMN DIRECTLY, you will destroy the threads which won't let the nut go back on, and you will need a thread chaser (in the scenario you don't already own these, they're out of stock in every nearby hardware store). Also not a bad idea to put some antiseize on the gear before you put it back to prevent the rust buildup that causes it to stick in the first place. 2. If you pull the steering column out too far, don't panic, you have to get the angle right for it to go most of the way back in, then from underneath there's a guide above the steering gear that was probably knocked out of place, fix that and it should go all the way back in. 3. The bolt in the transmission is easier to get to from behind, jack up the rear then place a jack stand on both axles, pull the jack out and you can get a wrench right at that bolt. A lot easier that way.
I used a brake like wrench 16mm for the pesky guide bolt under the fan. It made it a little faster to get out. Once I got the clutch pulley off of the shaft the built guides were part of the machine. I didn't need to remove them to get the belt off.
The bracker ratchet you used on top to hold the motor from turning, wouldn't that loosen the flywheel if you have a drive pulley thats really stubborn? Also using a rachet strap would help hold the steering wheel in place when re installing the steering gear. Great video these videos are awesome for the poor man thats somewhat mechanically inclined!👍
Haha sounds like you fit my demographic! I have done a lot of these and never had an issue with that top bolt loosing it is on the extremely tight. Check out my other PTO videos where I use the rope trick
Just bought a oem drive belt for my john deere la 145 from lowe's. Part #gx2000. Twenty one dollars and some change. Actually it was $23.74 after tax. Amazon is selling it for $33.95 before tax
Hi mike i was just wondering are they anyway to tighten the drive belt a little i put a new belt and pulleys on lastyear and it slipped some never did pull right
If I can't get the lower nut off of the transmission with an impact wrench what would be my next move be? I sprayed some WD-40 on it and then letting it sit but my impact wrench won't break it loose. I'm using a DeWalt battery impact wrench. Thanks for any help you can give me and your videos are very helpful.
hey mike so I crossed the number on the original belt and bought one at napa and i sware it too long i noticed that your belt was 87 inches does it make any difference how the transmission works? the one that was recommended is 88 7/8 and has got to be too dang long
If it is too long it won’t stay tight. As long as it stays tight and loosens when you put in the clutch you are good. They are trucking on length you have to get one pretty close
OMG! I don't need to replace the belt, the backbelt slipped off , I can't get it back on because there's a post to stop it from slipping which is preventing me from putting it back on, it's crazy! How do you take a 2 minute job and make it a 5 hour one that's crazy I am beside myself!
@@robertsimmons1716 Try backing the nut off the shaft but still leaving it in the shaft for a few threads and wack it. Maybe you can pop it up towards the steering wheel and not mess up the threads. Or get big flat head screw driver and pry it down as you beat it
Simplicity conquest 18hp 1694013 a black pin from chassis is going through clutch bracket , so what do I do cut off , there’s nothing on to of pin ,no bolts or screws ,I don’t want to drop the clutch . I don’t have torque tools to put it back
Sometimes when something strips like that I try and push a flathead scewdriver under it and try and push it up as I turn the nut to give it some pull out when you turn it. But it all fails you may just need to drop the transmission. It shouldn’t be too hard just unhook the belt and there around about 4 bolts to undo. Once you have it on the ground you can cut, wack or pry that thing off. Let me know how it turns out
