JRB DSRT Method: Reintroduction and Advantages 

Great video, as a beginner climber/hunter I find this very intriguing. This system is a very solid and minimalist, love it.

2 things about being 50. 1st is u r old enough to know better. 2nd thing is efficiency is the only way. When u fill up your gas tank u only have so many rides in u. When it comes to both redundancy & ease of use & flexibility of a system the JRB method is a real no brainer. I wouldn’t feel comfortable either way being 30 feet up on 1 rope or the friction of pulling a rope over a branch for 30 feet. The wear & tear on your body using MRS is cutting down on the amount of rides. Thanks for the best of both worlds which is more like creating a whole new universe.😄

You are the man John ! Best climbing system I've ever used for hunting. Thanks for sharing.

Awesome summary, John. Thanks for doing this!

amazing content. so happy I found this.

Excellent demonstration from start to finish. One system with many additional variations, methods and applications to climb any safe tree in the woods

What a great channel! Thank you so much!

No metal clanking. Awesome video idea. No sticks could easily just carry a lightweight hang on n use it

Hello friend ,tank You for video

I really want to learn That method ❤!

It might not be a bad idea to carry or attach an extra carabiner for that Munter rappel. That way you could tie it in before removing your back up. Transfers are the most dangerous part of climbing so it doesn't make sense to remove your redundancy during that! In my opinion, every serious saddle hunter should be familiar and capable with DSRT, SRT and MRS. They are not that different from each other and as you said, you can even use the same friction hitches just fine tune the turns. DSRT and SRT should be used the most and which one depends on the trees around you. DSRT is good when you can isolate a branch or a crotch or two. SRT is good for those trees that don't have any suitable branches or crotches. Open ended MRS is good for rigging presets on trees where isolation from ground is very hard as together with a lanyard you can easily navigate around branches and get to the target branch or crotch isolating it as you climb. MRS should only really be used for rigging as it does wear your rope more and using it multiple times on the same spot may damage the tree. My rule of thumb is: Take your normal or ideal hunting height. Multiply that by two and add 5 meters (around 16 feet). That's the length of your lifeline. Double that value and that's the length of your throw line, which will double up as a hauling/pulling rope if needed. This way you can climb DSRT and MRS to your ideal hunting height and SRT with the full length of your rope on those rare spots where you want to climb higher than what you were prepared for.

John great job of explaining as usual and I learned a lot in this video. One thing I wonder and would suggest. Put an alpine butterfly on one side of the rope and thread the other end through it. Then you have a canopy anchor that can release simply by pulling the end that has the butterfly. So now one side is completely secure but one side is less secure. But if you dont tie off, each side is less secure. To help with this, you can add a biner to the butterfly and add a second climbing rope of a different color to that biner. The line with the butterfly just hangs and is not to be used for climbing but only for retrieval. So the new rope is still not secure but at least it is marked by its color. Of course this is only an issue if a mistake is made, as in a fall, and the guy tries grabbing a single line instead of both lines. Since I cannot throw a ball too high, I plan to use this method along with the JRB hitch climbing method to get high enough to toss a ball over a higher bow. thanks again.

A well rounded education you have provided me. My favorite is the JRB Hitch, plus JRB Ascender, Plus Garda Footloop, using the Munter To repel down. I am still trying to figure out how you get to the top of the tree to then tie the JRB Hitch, is the JRB Hitch only used on the descent?

I’ve been saddle hunting for years now and am on my 3rd year of rope access. I’m going to try out you system next year. I want to compare it to srt and see what works better for me.

Question …. Which variation of the ascender hitch would grab and be more difficult to ascend with on 8 mm climbing rope and 6mm hitch rope, 5-2-3 or the 4-2-3? Seems to me the 4-2-3 holds just as strong but will move with less difficulty. What have you found in your experience? When I climbed with the 5-2-3 hitches self tended with a neck strap it took quite a bit of force and was rather uncomfortable so I retied my hitches to the 4-2-3. I am still experiencing awkwardness in descent and disconnect the neck strap hitches on the way down. I need to do some more practice and experimentation. But I definitely itely like having the redundant set of hitches on the neck strap especially for getting past limbs on up into the tree , that is great !

If you cant tie a knot, tie alot till you can knots

Recently was suggested I check out your channel for saddle hunting and wow- amazing content and clear instruction! The only thing I can see having trouble with it getting the one hitch stuck in the crotch when pulling the rope up and over. Any tips on that? Does that introduce opportunities to mess up the JRB ascender hitch?

I need to understand this further...I'm interested