Hey Giuseppe Marotta, You are welcome! I do plan on going back to the dyno and compare dirty K&N filters vs freshly cleaned vs brand new Nissan/Infiniti filters vs no filters later this spring.
Hey jellofuel, Thank you!! I work very hard to create unique episodes based on hard data. I think you will like the next episode where I measure the air pressure drop across different filters in the stock air box.
Thank you for doing this test, as it has given me confidence in the K&N air filters that came with the aftermarket cold-air intake system that I had installed on my 370Z. The system I got was a Stillen Gen 3 long tube cold air intake that has two massive cone-shaped K&N air filters. I had that system installed one day, along with a Fast Intentions dual x-pipe cat back exhaust and followed up the next day with a chassis dyno tune done with Ecutek software. After 7 dyno pulls, the tuner got the F/A mixture and ignition timing dialed in for a gain of about 55 peak crankshaft horsepower. This was an estimate, based on an assumed 17% drivetrain loss through the 6-speed manual transmission. The actual rear-wheel peak horsepower was 321@7200 rpm. I'd like to thank you again for all the interesting and informative content regarding the VQ engine platform.
AWESOME! I usually read discussions on how K&N filters can damage the engine of non sport cars but none of them are based on real experiment. You experiment proved that the trade of between more performance or fuel economy overcome the low level of dust the filters allow.
Thanks for your comment. As I see it, most comments/opinions on the K&N filters are based on what they have read, not their own test. I have used those exact K&N filters for 6 years and now have switched back to the Nissan/Infiniti OEM filter. The next few engine oil analysis will show the difference. I have no agenda here, I'm not paid by K&N, I only follow the data... and I want to know the difference between K&N and OEM filters. Too bad the testing takes so long... and I don't drive as much as I used to, since I now work from home. Anyways, I'm very curious to see the difference :)
@@MotorvateDIY How did the results come up? does the K&N filter do the same filtering job as the oem? also would you mind giving me the part number for the k&N filter in this video? also what do you think about the oiled k&n filter stuff up the MAF sensor? thanks a ton!
Unfortunately the sample from a few months ago got lost, but I'll do the same on my next oil change. To get the part number, do a search on K&N site. In over 30 years of using K&N filters on Nissan/Infiniti vehicles, I've never had a MAF issue. When cleaning the filter, only use the amount of oil as per the K&N website.
Your videos are very well made. I just hope that one day your channel blows up with a million subscribers so that I can continue to gain knowledge from you 10+ years from now. Please never stop doing what you're doing. Honestly, you're one of the best. Pretty much on par with ChrisFix, if not better!
Hey Christian Omenyi Jr, Don't worry I will :) I know there was three month gap since the last episode, but there are some great things being worked on behind the scenes.
Very interesting and good to see they're still working as well as OEM filters. Keep in mind that dirty filters are usually more effective at filtering (and less at flowing fluid) the dirtier they are...
Hey Thomas Spurr, I honestly can't say as good as OEM filters. When I purchased the car, they came with some used Fram air filters and that is shown in the first used oil analysis. I do plan on going back to the dyno and measure the power of freshly cleaned K&N, theses dirty K&N, brand new Infiniti filters and no air filters. (PLUS I have built an arduino based air pressure data logger that will capture the air pressure difference of each filter.) It should be interesting to see the results!
@@MotorvateDIY I will have to check that video out again. Thank you for your response! Your content always is very well produced and has been extremely clear and helpful. Any chance you plan to do a video on changing transmission fluid in the 7AT?
Hey Thomas Spurr, I am glad the video are helping you! As for a video on changing the automatic transmission fluid, there are no plans for that at this time. I simply don't have access to an 7AT.
Hey KillerElite1, Glad to hear it. I have used K&N filters for over 30 years and they work for me. Just to be very clear, I have no affiliation with K&N (financial or otherwise)... I am simply a happy customer. Thanks for the comment!
For a day at the track nothing beats a gauze, oil saturated air filter but for everyday driving I will stick to pleated paper. Something about using more dirt to trap more dirt as a filtering media just doesn't sit to well with me.
makes sense as the more dirt the more dirt is going to catch on the existing dirt! Would be interested to see a flow-test! if they are still flowing as good as they should be! not sure how you would do that tho... :)
Hey snipeish1, Good news... that is the plan :) I do plan on going back to the dyno and measure the power of freshly cleaned K&N, these dirty K&N, brand new Infiniti filters and no air filters. (PLUS I have built an arduino based air pressure data logger that will capture the air pressure difference of each filter.) It should be interesting to see the results! Show less
There's the maf sensor, using an app like Torque you can compare when clean to when dirty. Or OBD Fusion which you already use and which seems much nicer!
Except he didn't sample the oil filter at all... where all of these particulates get trapped. Sand (the silicon hes measuring) has a fine particle size of about 60 microns. Oil filters run micron sizes of 8 to 40. Which means nearly 100% of the sand that goes into the engine will be caught by the filter. And considering the air filter, paper or K&N, is more porous than the oil filter, the results will always be the same. Also observe the sharp increase in iron. he went from 7, to 10! thats a FORTY PERCENT INCREASE in particles. He had a FORTY PERCENT INCREASE in engine wear as soon as he swapped filters. And iron particles are 4-20 micron which means they are making it through the oil filter and therefore showing up on these tests. Where do you think thats coming from? His cylinder walls.
Glad you liked it. I left that filter in the car for 5 years and NEVER cleaned it. Now, I have brand new Nissan air filters, and will run them for a year and then get the engine oil analyzed, and compare the differences. It should be interesting.
I've driven in the desert and sand dunes a lot! When I used a K&N briefly, there was a lot of fine grit in the intake tract AFTER the air filter. The filter was oiled and seated in the housing correctly. When threw it in the trash and installed a factory paper filter, I never had grit in the intake again. My personal experience showed the K&N did not filter small particles adequately and let many of them in. I not sure how it can be refuted that K&Ns do a decent job filtering. They don't.
honestly watched nearly all your videos! even though i don’t have a g37 the 370 shares the same motor! can you make an in depth video on how to replace the spark plugs. i will be changing them as soon as you put the video up lol!
I have a K&N air filter housing and filter. I'll be honest it's a pain in cleaning and adding a really thin layer of K&N oil. I usually park my truck for the day and put it in the next day just so the really thin oiling has absorbed/semi dried so the wet oil on the filter doesn't screw with my sensor and bugger it up. Horse power gain hardly noticeable. Too much work involved with a K&N air filter in my opinion, considering when buying a disposable you quickly put it in and eventually toss it and buy another, it's time saving. I do recommend if you do go with K&N kits buy another filter to have previously oiled and ready so you can just toss it in without the wait. I also noticed too that the filter get's dirtier faster which is contributed by thin layer of oil in my opinion which requires more frequently cleaning and going through the process again.
Impressive! Really interesting! I was really worry about this topic because I like to install this kind of air filters in my tune cars but I'm always debating about possible engine problems in long term... thanks!
I'm glad you liked that test. I'm now working on the next one. I had those filters in the car for 6 years about 60,000 miles and didn't clean them... to do another test. I changed the oil and sent a sample to get analyzed and then put in 2 new Nissan filters. At the next oil change, or maybe the one after that one, I will get the oil analyzed and see what the difference is. The problem with these tests is that they take so long... but that is the only way to get a long term test :)
@@MotorvateDIYhi there, I’m very interested to know your results with the Nissan filters? I’m a big fan of K&N, been using them for years but there is a lot of bad talk about them of late. (Old post I know but see your still making videos so hoping for as much information you can give on this subject)
I'm working on the next test :) At the end of last year, I switched to the OEM/Infiniti air filters. At the next oil change, the used oil will be analyzed to compare results. The plan is to keep the OEM/Infiniti air filters in for a few yeas to see how the used oil analysis report changes. I'm really curious to see the silicon levels, as this generally reports how much sand is getting past the air filter an into the oil. Too bad these tests take so long :(
@@MotorvateDIY can’t wait to see these results. Even compared to your oil analysis you already have with the K&N will be interesting. How many kilometres between oil changes are you doing?
Hey Jamie SV650, If the valve and/or valve seats are being damaged, that would also show up in the used oil analysis, as chromium. (I think) Keep in mind 3-5% of what is in the combustion chamber, ends up in the crankcase due to blow-by gasses, which then mixes with the engine oil.
Thanks, still have K&N ON MY 2007 GMC CANYON 4 CYL, @some 120,000 using .... on synthetic oils. DUSTY/Dirty around my new Home: considered going back to OEM for sand/Dust all around cleaning....Interestingly, switched my 2015 Journey 4CYL back to OEM AIR FILTERS, as dirt and Dust load was tremendous ( front fresh air intakes , exposed )......some 40,000 miles on K&N AIR FILTERS,unknown IF SAFER OR cleaner yet on OEM MOPAR AIR FILTER.........be interested in other drivers experience.
Hey webguy943, Different people have different experiences. -or- they repeat something they read online that makes sense to them, but may not be factual. Those K&N filters are still in my car, and they haven't been cleaned since July 2017. AND the last used engine oil analysis from Feb 2021, showed 28 PPM of silicon and all wear metals were average. They work for me :) BUT I don't live in a sandy or dusty area. I might have different results if I did. However, since I don't, I can only report my actual results on where I drive. :)
When i changed my oil after i bought my car I put regular Mobil1 full synthetic in it. I was told i shouldve gotten the extended protection Mobil1 because of it ability to handle heat better. Is that gonna hurt anything? I dont track my car and my highest oil temp since I had it was 225-230. Normal driving its always around 200 to 210 on these hot days. Also im thinking about switching to Royal Purple like I used to run. From the videos I watched it has a phenomenal film strength and handles heat very well. Have you ever used it? Check out some of the bearing bench tests they do comparing it to Mobil1. The test where the bearing is rolling in a bath of oil and they push down on a lever to simulate wear is pretty impressive. There's hardly any mark on the bearing at all. Now im not trash talking Mobil1 because it still did very well. But it did let a noticeable wear mark behind. I know when i used Royal Purple before in a 2002 Z28 SS the engine ran slightly cooler (with the same thermostat) and noticeably quieter. For the little bit more that it costs i think its worth it since these engines rev so high and are known to run a bit hot.
Hey Waugy 370z, I think your oil temperatures are good, not too hot, not too cold. To be honest, I really don't like those "ball bearing" oil tests. They are not relevant to what happens inside an engine. I use either Castrol Edge Synthetic or Quaker State Ultimate Durability Synthetic oil, which ever is on sale :) If you really want to know what oil is best for your, for how you drive, in the conditions you drive in, get a used oil analysis. -or- Just use a name brand full synthetic oil and change it as per the owner's manual.
@@MotorvateDIY I see. Did you clean your kn filters ever? Or are you still using it without cleaning and it’s showing normal result on engine oil analysis?
I would like to see a video of how to find a fuse that keeps blowing up. My G35 couple keeps blowing up the tail light fuse. I can’t find where the problem is. The videos have help👍🏽 keep up the good work
Hey Chaco Santaya, Thanks for your kind words. If the fuse keeps blowing, it should be easy to find, but you will need a multi-meter, wiring diagram and understand basic electricity. Make sure to check for worn insulation on the brake light wire. As for making a video on that, since the G35/G37/350z/370z generally don't have electrical issues, it wouldn't get enough views to justify the time required to produce a video.
Hey Enkeis, Changing plugs are my next video shoot. I hope to get the parts in a few weeks. I know it has been a while since the last episode. I took some time off the production side to focus on G37/370z research. One of the goals of this channel is to have unique content, and as you can imagine, that is not a simple task. However, here is what is being worked on right now: • Home made $40 Arduino based data logger that samples 8 sensors 100+ times per second • Fuel rail pressure at idle and wide open throttle. You might be surprised how much it drops! • Crankcase pressure test: Stock vs PCV delete. Does a PCV delete really reduce crankcase pressure or increase it? • Differential oil temp. How how does it really get in city driving, highway and during a track event? • Manual transmission oil temperature. How how does it really get in city driving, highway and during a track event? • Engine oil pressure vs RPM vs oil temperature. How much does the oil pressure change as the oil warms up and as the RPM increased? • Power steering fluid temp: How hot does it get? Does turning heat up the fluid more than high engine RPM? and finally, I designed and built a Arduino based device that plugs into the OBD port and uses the CAN bus to copy the ECU's ROM to a SD. Soooo, there have not been many episode lately, but there is a lot of content getting ready for release!
For an added layer of protection you can also spring for the Nismo magnetic oil drain plug. Will catch any small loose metal particles not contained in the filter!
Informative value of this video is equal to the following comparison: throw a motorbike helmet and a bobble cat from a church spire. The bobble cat remains undamaged. Consequentially I always wear bobble cabs while riding my motorbike.
The production quality of these videos are nearly as good as Engineering Explained and other big channels like that. Sadly, the views are not proportional to that.
Hey Block o Butter, You are very kind! As for my views, they will never be large, as most of my content is only interesting to a small audience, mostly 370z/G37 owners. :)
Hey matt debrouwer, I know it has been a while since the last episode. I took some time off the production side to focus on G37/370z research. One of the goals of this channel is to have unique content, and as you can imagine, that is not a simple task. However, here is what is being worked on right now: • Home made $40 Arduino based data logger that samples 8 sensors 100+ times per second • Fuel rail pressure at idle and wide open throttle. You might be surprised how much it drops! • Crankcase pressure test: Stock vs PCV delete. Does a PCV delete really reduce crankcase pressure or increase it? • Differential oil temp. How how does it really get in city driving, highway and during a track event? • Manual transmission oil temperature. How how does it really get in city driving, highway and during a track event? • Engine oil pressure vs RPM vs oil temperature. How much does the oil pressure change as the oil warms up and as the RPM increased? • Power steering fluid temp: How hot does it get? Does turning heat up the fluid more than high engine RPM? and finally, I designed and built a Arduino based device that plugs into the OBD port and uses the CAN bus to copy the ECU's ROM to a SD. Soooo, there have not been many episode lately, but there is a lot of content getting ready for release!
o shit first and keep it up nigga, ur videos are MAD informative, pleasant voice pronunciation of consonants and syllables and no stupid ass forced humor, PURE ass truth and good shit. STAY UP BRO! SCIENCE!
As a guy in my 30s, I have almost same mods and same approach to everything on my 2011 G37 as you. The biggest question mark on my list is a tune. Heard so much back and forth on uprev vs ecutek, and as you've noted different for every car and climate. I also daily mine to work every day, so want it to still drive smooth and not be jerky or set up for race mode if not necessary. Have you though about reaching out to uprev or ecutek guys and s hi showing your size of followers and asked for an unbiased review in exchange for a free tune? Cheers from the States.
Hey Nick J, That's an interesting question... The performance or smoothness of a tune are determined by the tuner skill, not the software. The tuning software determines the options that are available. (Launch control, I have been in discussions with an ECUTek Master Tuner (Eugene @ Enthusiast Auto Care) and we might be doing a few episodes on ECUTeck features and show an e-tune works in the spring/summer.
My question is performance being affected by the dirty filters. On my 2008 C350 the filters get dirty so fast, mainly because I do a lot of highway but since these filters have oil and dirt sticks to them, I wonder how it affects performance when they clog up.
Based on the dyno testing I have done on my G37 (will be a future episode), there is almost no measurable difference in power between brand new K&N and a K&N filter with 50,000 KM. BUT I don't know if that would be accurate for your C350.
Hello sir, first of all thank you for your videos it really helps us, I have a problem with my infiniti g37 2013, there is no check engine light the car has about 52k miles, there are no warning lights but the car doesn't run right, there is lack of acceleration and the car hesitates to move sometimes, on one occasion I was going 50mph pressed the accelerator/gas all the way there wasn't any response at all, the car didn't move at all, the rpm didn't rev at all, so I pulled to the side turned the car on/off and then It was good again, that didn't happen again, but when I am going about 45 mph and press the gas it takes a good second for the rpm to move, or sometimes the car just upshifts instead of downshifting when I press the accelerator which makes me press it all the way in order for the car to downshift, my car is automatic, and there certainly is something wrong with it, if you have any clue what the problem might be I would really appreciate your help, no mechanics can find the problem because there is no check engine light, hope to hear back from you.!!
Hey Mùsã sålâr, This will be difficult for me to troubleshoot but here are my thoughts: Even with no check engine light, I would still scan the car as there may be a "pending" code which doesn't turn on the check engine light. Also you could use an app like OBD Fusion with the $15 enhanced diagnostic and scan EVERY computer, like the transmission, ABS module, BCM (body control module). Here is a video on this from my other channel: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YTnXu9JtmhY.html Only the ECM (engine computer module) will turn on the check engine light. So, there can be error codes in some of the other modules that might point us in a direction. If you don't want to scan you car, you might want to take it to the dealer and they will do that for you and then they can tell you what the issue is. Also... With the engine running and the car in park, does the engine rev normally if you floor it for a second? I am trying to determine an engine issue from a transmission issue.
@@MotorvateDIY Thank you so much for responding sure I'll do it myself to try to figure out if there's a pending code going on, and if I couldn't figure it out do you think the dealer could run a diagnosis, how much would they usually charge? And yes sir while the car is in park and engine is running everything is normal, the rpm is under a 1000 between 600 and 700, and if I floor the accelerator all the way the rpm only goes up till about 4 and a half thousand or so, I believe there is some sort of safety thing from the factory that wouldn't allow it to go any further. At times this problem really gets frustrating because there's lack of power and the car just doesn't drive right, it doesn't downshift unless you floor the accelerator then after a second or so it will respond and then the car will move.
Hey Mùsã sålâr, The engine rev test suggests to me the issue is not the engine, which means the transmission may be suspect. BUT your mileage is so low, I really don't think it could be the transmission either. I have no idea what the dealer charges to scan the car, my guess would be $100 or so. If you spent $40 in total on an OBD Scan tool and OBD Fusion (including the Enhanced diagnostics) You could check all modules for trouble codes. -OR- Go to the dealer and let them scan your car and give you the report. Until the problem is fixed, I would minimize how much the car is driven. There is a slight chance that driving it might make the repair more costly, if the issue is the transmission. Sorry for your troubles, but please keep me informed on what happens. :)
@@MotorvateDIY Thank you for responding again sir a better explanation of what's going on is that it's a weird sensation, like when trying to overtake a car just giving it a little gas wont bring the revs up...I have to really press the pedal at least half way down to bring the revs up, then it downshifts and throws me back in the seat.....its like theres no middle ground, just hesitant acceleration or neck snapping throw you in the seat acceleration...it almost feels as if the 7at is confused and cant decide which gear to be in. I did some research most people suggest the resetting the ECU or cleaning the throttle body, or changing spark plug but none of those seem to work. but a similar case which happens in alot of Infinitis the G models particularly in the U.S, I was doing some research and came across a response which connected the issue with an error code C1116, a faulty brake light, now it may sound kinda off for this specific issue but the guy who fixed the problem by changing that switch sounded pretty satisfied with the results and suggested changing that. I've driven alot of cars before, and my last car was the Lexus is350 2007, now that car was a fun and really good car I didn't have any issues with it until the very end, now I understand that the g37 have more power bigger engine and would beat the Lexus in the long run, but all this hesitation in the G37 sickens me and it makes this great car feel like a grandma car to be honest. Also what would I need if I choose to do the OBD reading myself which I most likely will do, what type of equipments would I need, which ones are the best ones? again thank you so much for your help and time I really appreciate you.
Hey Mùsã sålâr, Here are the apps and scanners that have worked well for me and my G37: • OBD Scanners: Veepeak BLE ($32) or Foseal WiFi ($20) - these will work with iPhone/iPad, or Android devices. I would avoid the cheap (< 15$) "ELM 327" scanners as their quality is all over the place. Some work good and others don't. • OBD App: OBD Fusion ($6-10) is my current favorite and they offer a $15 (or so) enhanced diagnostic add add that allows you to scan all the modules (computers) in the car. Here is more info on OBD Fusion: www.obdsoftware.net/software/obdfusion On my other RU-vid channel you can learn all about OBD Fusion and the enhanced diagnostics: ru-vid.com Next Steps: (1) Buy an OBD scanner (2) Buy OBD Fusion (3) Connect and scan the car, run and save the diagnostic report. This will only show ECU (engine computer) trouble codes. (4) Purchase the Diagnostic add on in the app (5) Disconnect then reconnect (6) Run the diagnostic reports for all modules, save the report, and email it to yourself (for backup) (7) Now you should know what the codes are :)
Good question... but I can't answer it. As part of a test for a future episode, my K&N filter has been in the car since July 2016 and has over 76,000 KM on it without being cleaned. and my last used oil analysis in Jan 2021 showed all is well with regards to the quality of air filtration where I typically drive. (and that is mostly city)
I am not 100% sure...generally iron is mostly from cylinder walls and crankshafts. I think lifters are a hardened alloy, so I don't think they would show up under iron... maybe some hardened alloy?
I have not heard about the "Green Filter"... so I went to have a look on their website... Interesting, it looks like a green K&N. Unfortunately, they don't make one for the G37 or 370z, so I can't do any testing :(
Hey Albert Caval, Nope, I have shot a lot of content over the spring/summer and have done a lot of research for future episodes. (Crankcase pressure and PCV delete, fuel pressure gauge install, fuel pressure stability at wide open throttle, and more) I have a lot of editing to do and I hope to get some episodes out before the end of the year. I haven't used syncromesh fluid on this transmission, so I don't have any first hand experience. I do know for a fact that the newer manual transmissions can be very selective on what oil is used. The oils need to have a specific amount of friction for the syncros to work properly and prevent grinding. If the oil is too slippery, the syncros won't work as well, and you might increase wear on the syncro engagement teeth. To prevent any future / long term issues, I only use the OEM fluid. If any issues do happen, I know that the aftermarket fluid wasn't the issue.
This isn’t regarding air filters but my car was throwing a code for MAF and MAP sensor and bank 2 lean. When my g37s gets warm it won’t start or will try to shut down. At about 3k rpm it sputters. Any ideas?
Hey Joshua Jeans, What is the exact code? Often the online look up of descriptions are not accurate. If it is a P0106, there is an ECU update to fix that: infinitig37.com/TSB/ITB12-026a.pdf For the sputtering, when was the last time the throttle body was cleaned?
Hey Joshua Jeans, When troubleshooting you need to think of the code as the symptom, not the cause. Many years ago, I changed an O2 sensor as it always read lean.... as it turned out, the intake boot had a tear and the O2 sensor was just fine.
Hey Peter Kim, That's a hard question to answer... I think you should clean it when you think it needs it. Make sure to check K&Ns site to find out how much oil to use. The filter in this video is STILL in my car. The used oil analysis from Feb 2021 showed silicon at 28 PPM and everything else looked good. So I still haven't cleaned it.
Hey Love Like a Hurricane, Good question. However, I have never used them, so I don't know. Maybe try a forum that supports you car's make/model or a Facebook group to see what others think.
Can you hear any high pitch noise from the stock intake when rev above 5k rpm? Mine has this noise above 5k rpm and I have the KN filters and silicone tubes.
Hey 代玉宇, Nope, I don't hear any high pitch sounds from my stock intake G37 with the K&N panel filters... I might be testing some silicon tubes later this year, and I will make a note to check for this.
Mine sounds like theres a turbo blow off valve when i get near the redline at WOT. It's not uncommon on these engines at high rpm and i have no idea what causes it, but it doesn't seem to be an issue.
My clutch pedal is stuck to the floor and theres no pressure when I lift it up manually. Do you know if bleeding the clutch will fix this problem or would I need to replace the clutch? I have a g37s sedan 6mt
Hey Pedro Graham, Check the clutch fluid level and look a puddle under the engine and transmission. If it is empty or very low, I suspect your "concentric slave cylinder" (CSC) needs to be replaced. AND yes, the transmission needs to be removed. If the clutch is in good condition, it can stay. By the way, the CSC It is a common problem on the G37 Sport :( If it is low, you can fill it up and bleed the clutch: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DvOa0gPJN6Q.html
Hey just checked and there doesnt seem to be any leaks, and the level is looking about normal. I also cant put it into gear I'm guessing because the clutch is fully depressed. Would I be able to bleed the system even when the clutch is in this state?
Hey Pedro Graham, I think you should be able to. Get your foot under the clutch pedal and lift it up. It will spring to the top. You might have to do this a few times to build up pressure. Then try to bleed the clutch as shown here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DvOa0gPJN6Q.html BE VERY GENTLE WHEN LOOSENING THE CLUTCH BLEEDER, THEY CAN BREAK VERY EASY!!! It might be a good idea to spray a little liquid wrench or PB Blaster and let it soak a few hours or overnight. Good luck! It is possible that your CSC or clutch master cylinder has an internal leak and this may not work.
Nope! And that same filter is in the car right now and hasn't been cleaned since I put it in way back in 2016. All for a future episode to see how well the K&N filters, filter when they are not cleaned :)
@@MotorvateDIY interesting! I just like them because you can hear the turbo better, but there's no way I'm cleaning it. Not worth it if it's hurting the engine though, what can we expect the results of that test?!
In the summer I will do an oil change and used oil analysis to see where things are and how they have changed since 2016. Unfortunately, in the last 2 years I haven't driven very much, so I won't have as much mileage on them as I would like, but some data is better than none :)
Actually I have :) I book a few hours of dyno time in August. I tested the dirty K&N, new K&N, new NIssan/Infiniti filter and just for fun NO AIR FILTER. PLUS I data logged 32 items via the diagnostic port and an additional 8 items (with my home made data logger) like fuel pressure, oil temp, oil pressure, crankcase pressure and a few others. The downside of all this data is the time it takes to analyze it... but that is under way :)
Hey Haseeb M, That's a good question! I think it depends on which engine. On the VQ35 / VQ37 found in the G35/G37/350/370 the only benefit to an oil catch can is cleaner throttle bodies, as they remove the oil mist from the crankcase blow by. BUT they are expensive and they only prevent cleaning the throttle bodies about every 100,000 KM (60,000 miles) depending on how the car is driven. So for me, I'd rather clean the throttle bodies every 2 years or so. For some, they like the peace of mind knowing the throttle bodies will stay clean.
Hey buddy i had a question thats off topic so i figured id put it on the newest video? Anyway the dual throttle bodies on these engines, do they actuate independently or simultaneously? I saw a dyno video and the guy said he had a jumpy graph when the second throttle body opens up? I always thought they worked simultaneously?
Hey Waugy 370z, You are correct. Based on the data logging and analysis I have done, both throttle bodies are used at the same time. It almost sound like that "guy" is thinking the dual throttle bodies on the HR/VHR engine works like a old 4 barrel carb, where 2 barrels are being used until almost full throttle, then at full throttle the secondary butterflies open up and all 4 barrels are open.
@@MotorvateDIY I didnt think it was the other way. Cause it looks like the intake is setup with separate runners for 1, 3 and 5 then 2, 4 and 6. When i asked the guy on his video he told me "if you're gonna own a Z then learn how it works". I pitty people whos cars he's worked on lol. Thanks again for the help 👍
Hey man, quick question from a fellow Canadian, is the stillen cat back loud enough? I am planing on getting it and I just want to make sure its worth my money
Hey Darian Perisic, Hmmmm, that's a hard question to answer, since what is loud to me might not be loud to you. Let me try to answer it this way: If I was in my 20s, I would say it is too quiet. As a guy in my 50s, I would say it is just the right level of loudness (and my neighbours would agree)
Hey Darian Perisic, I don't have any first hand experience with other exhausts.... BUT I have enjoyed the "not too loud sound" from my Stillen exhaust. It is well made and holding up nicely after a few salty / Canadian winters: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0faOiDHu6Po.html
Hey TT-RS, Funny that you should ask this.... I changed my oil in March and did a used oil analysis. Lead is now 3 ppm, down from 21 from July 2017. Also, silicon is 29, and that is with the exact same (and un-cleaned) K&N!
Hey Darksyne, Thanks for the kinds words. I know it has been a while since the last episode. I took some time off the production side to focus on G37/370z research. One of the goals of this channel is to have unique content, and as you can imagine, that is not a simple task. However, here is what is being worked on right now: • Home made $40 Arduino based data logger that samples 8 sensors 100+ times per second • Fuel rail pressure at idle and wide open throttle. You might be surprised how much it drops! • Crankcase pressure test: Stock vs PCV delete. Does a PCV delete really reduce crankcase pressure or increase it? • Differential oil temp. How how does it really get in city driving, highway and during a track event? • Manual transmission oil temperature.How how does it really get in city driving, highway and during a track event? • Engine oil pressure vs RPM vs oil temperature. How much does the oil pressure change as the oil warms up and as the RPM increased? • Power steering fluid temp: How hot does it get? Does turning heat up the fluid more than high engine RPM? and finally, I designed and built a Arduino based device that plugs into the OBD port and uses the CAN bus to copy the ECU's ROM to a SD. Soooo, there have not been many episode lately, but there is a lot of content getting ready for release!
@@MotorvateDIY Thank you for the response. I'll be buying a K&N Filter soon. Really appreciate the Testing and work you've done. Looking forward to the analysis after 50,000 miles to see if the filter lives up to it's claims.
@@LucasEHonda You are welcome :) Many people think K&N pays me for this.... all I do is follow where the data takes me. If the data shows they are crap at 60,000 KM they are gone. (but I suspect they will be just fine!)
@@MotorvateDIY K&N does state that in severe driving conditions the Filter should be cleaned earlier than 50,000. Depending on how dusty and dirty your test environment is, the filter may or may not meet the 50,000 Mile mark but to reach 30,000 Mile mark is impressive. Just got a K&N Air Filter(Part#:33-5045) I'd likely clean the filter every 15,000 or less for good measure. I'm a daily freeway driver of 45 Miles a day, 6 Days per week.
@@LucasEHonda Sounds like a solid plan! You also might want to get a used oil analysis and to see how the filter is doing in the conditions you drive in. Thanks for the comment!
@@PNW_Sportbike_Life For me, I like to look at my own data and make a decision. If my silicon levels get too high, I will stop using them and make an episode on that. Right now, that same K&N filter is still installed and was last cleaned July 2016. This will be a future episode on how it looks at 60,000 or 70,000 KM.
Here is my analysis of what happened and why this is not a meaningful result: Very fine sand particles average 60 microns in size (the silicon measured). And oil filter is 8-40 micron pore size. So the filters would be catching near 100% of any sized sand in the engine. The only stuff that is going to show up is the extremely extremely find particles that will make it through the paper air filter (25-30 micron) and the oil filter. Because these particles are going to be very small, 8 micron particle size from the K&N. Next we look at the Iron results. Iron has a particle size of 4-20 micron on average. Much smaller than sand on average. Which also means a huge amount is going to be making it through the oil filter. This variable also isolates the filter out because it has nothing to do with incoming particle size, but particle size produced as a direct result of wear on the engine. As soon as the filter swaps in we jump from 7 to 10 ppm. That "doesn't sound like a lot" but once you put on your math goggles you realize that he just increased his engine wear by 40%. thats a FORTY PERCENT INCREASE IN WEAR. And before someone who doesn't know how to do math jumps into the comments, no its not a 30% increase. its 42% of 7, then added to the 7, to make 10. a 40% increase. Where is this material coming from? Exactly where he said its coming from. CYLINDER WALLS. It drops down to 8, which is still a 15% increase in wear from stock value. Think about it. Would you ever purchase something if when you bought it there was a stamp on it that said "your engine wear will increase 15-40%" ?? NO. you WOULDNT
I have had the same K&N filters in my car for 6 years and never cleaned them... all to get data for this test. I've just changed my oil, sent a sample to Blackstone Labs, and will swap in brand new Nissan air filters, drive for 6,000 miles and get another used oil analysis. When the PPM numbers are small, like iron, you can't says "wow, 40% increase in wear" because it is 3-4 PPM higher. The repeatability of an UOA is not 1 PPM and varies around 4-5 PPM. As always, the value of an UOA is looking at trends... not just the number. I do appreciate you taking the time to comment!
I don't like that you can see right through the K&N. Can't do that on a paper filter. And with the cost of the K&N and the cleaning and oiling products you have to buy, and the faffing about. The performance of the K&N just doesn't warrant the outlay in time or money for me. I stopped using K&N when I removed the induction kit off my car (was selling it), and installed the standard air box and filter, and got a noticeable increase in performance. Sounded better with the K&N, ran better with the paper.
Hey Bill Hubbard, I understand what you are saying, worried about being able to see through the filter, cleaning it, drying it etc... For me I think it is worth it, but is not for everyone. If a car feels better/faster with a paper air filter, then that's what I would use :)
Without a comparison to OEM paper filters this is a great well produced video, but isn't really doing a fair comparison. If paper yielded better results over the same time period there's an argument to be made that the K&N's are actually inferior, which many will argue they are, and the science based tests prove such: www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html
As you know, there are many variables in a test like this. Those K&N filters are comming up to the 60,000 KM mark and then I will switch to Nissan/Infiniti filters for the next 50 or 60,000 KM and compare the difference.
This test is measuring a secondary set of parameters (engine oil) and thus doesn't really tell us much about the efficiency of the filters in collecting dust across different conditions. In reality, controlled lab test results show that eg K&N filters are far worse at trapping and accumulating dust, and in the following results for one of the stress tests you can see a K&N filter passing 18X as much dust as the stock filter (yes, eighteen times!): www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html It's pretty clear that K&N's claims about flow and HP gains are probably accurate, but in terms of protecting the engine from dust, these high-performance filters are verifiably not all they're cracked up to be.
Let me ask you this. If the "dirt" that gets through the K&N doesn't end up in the oil does it matter? Will that hurt the engine as it passes through? I don't think so.... My 95 Maxima had a K&N cone filter on it for over 300,000 Km with out any MAF issues or burning oil. My G37 has has the same air filter (without cleaning) for almost 90,000 Km and the last used oil analysis had silicon at 29 PPM. Just below the warning of 30 PPM... and it still is in my car. AND I wouldn't do anything to hurt my car. Many people talk about the K&N filter being bad with out their own data. I don't care what the forums says.... I only follow what my data shows me. Do you have personal data to share or just an opinion?
