The 2nd gen crv heads aka ppa or ppl stamped head. Is the best flowing k series head. Kyle from boostedboiz uses it. Prayoonto on their 1200hp+ k series engines. It out flows even the prb type s heads and tsx. 4piston loves that head and they can port it to the max. I have a stock ppa head on my k24a2 engine. Stock port those heads can produce over 1000hp easy. I got my ppa at my local junkyard for $80.
@@VHBEnginesAdam lz needs the put his big boy pants on and k24 swap his crx that b20 makes good power but come on nothing compares to a stock k24 with the right parts locked VTech and some good exhaust
I have been telling people that the vtec heads are way overrated for years. I would rather have something more consistent and reliable. Look at when people blow up their vtec engines. It usually happens when vtec kicks in and they get the surge of power and torque. It's probably a tuning issue, but either way, having a nice smooth power and torque curve makes tuning easier, more reliable, and consistent.
@stevenmejia4982 heck yeah and that's different. Also you have already have the a4 head. I'm building a 900hp k20a3 engine. All a3 with it's original head vtec locked with a 71mm turbo. In my awd 94 civic sedan.
I know the K20a3 can make some power with a vtec killer setup, and pistons/rods and even an a2 crank/oil pump and valve springs are not that cheap. I’m just not that sure if it’s a lot cheaper than a k24a2. I have a base RSX as an extra car (rarely driven) that I’m considering building to make it a more fun run about. So if I go the vtec killer route, cams/rockers/springs will run ~$750. That’s decent. But a whole K24a2 for $1300 with a slightly higher compression ratio. And if a person needs to source an a3 head for a block they have already, it’s nearly the same cost. I don’t see how it’s cheaper. It’s still a cool budget build with potential. Is there something I’m missing? So if I end up building the RSX, the K24a2 seems like the better choice. Similar cost with 20+ hp and more torque. I end up with a spare a3 long block that might make a good basis for a build/swap into a classic euro… Or it can be parted out.
If you have the base model long block the only thing you have to get is cams and cam gears. 👀 Cut the exhaust rockers and pin lock your intake rockers with 0 money spent. You don't have to upgrade springs. Seems like the whole concept has shot over your head
@@VHBEngines Hi! In your opinion, where do valve springs become more necessary on an a3? I figure with the extra lift, 100% of the time, and possibly 7.5K rpm redline, it's increasing stress on components that weren't specced for that duty cycle at the possible risk of either float or eventual component failure. They could be fine for while, but at some point it might need to be addressed. I can't find specs for the a3, but if it's near small lobe of an a2, it could be another 3mm of lift. At some point it's likely to be a problem. Same as pushing the limits of a3 rods or any other component. Past a certain point, reliability becomes suspect. Re: Budget build - Project cars always have scope creep. I'm looking at it from the perspective of all these other areas will likely end up being addressed - because "project car". A Vtec Killer a3 might start off cheap with $200 cams, but then there's rods/pistons/ported sump/valve springs and maybe an a2 crank when "we" want that little bit more performance afterwards. I'm not trolling or aiming to argue with you. Genuinely appreciate your videos. Just sharing that from my POV, it seems like the different paths are a few hundred $$ apart and it comes down to what kind of build do you want at the end of the day. Kind of like how there's boost and NA tribes, Vtec Killer is another tribe, more so than it is a matter of cost. For me, either approach has its unique selling points that seem more suitable for a particular project. - Having a cammy k20a3 that's been built to run up to 9K for a sub 2k lbs car is ideal. It's not an expensive build, and it's unique. - And with an RSX that owes me nothing, adding 100whp to fuck around with by way of a k24a2 swap, or as the basis of building an Evo like car for less than Evo $$. TY for the back and forth!
Hey man, I'm trying to find stuff on rl5 pistons with no luck. Do you know if they would work with a k24a4 head since they have the similar piston bumps? And how would this work with k20a2 cams?
I just found your channel, and am going to do some more watching, but I have a question. I have an 06 RSX base, everything I've read basically says to sale it and buy a Type S, but I'm not built that way. Going by what I know about forced induction builds, and from this video I think I'm on the right path. Would something like this work for 3-350whp? SBE, TSX Cams/VTec Killer, RBC Intake, something like a MHI 16G, E85, clutch, and KPro?
@@VHBEngines I've watched a few more since this comment. Even at something like 300hp? Or I guess whatever 8ish psi would make. I was under the impression the could at least handle that. If not some Eagles or Scats shouldn't be too hard to come by.
My question is can you do anything with an a3 block if you send it to the machine shop to get it to similar specs to an A2, Z1, Or Z3? I have a spare k20a3 motor that i want to do something cool with. Plenty of Z3 heads around my area for pretty reasonable price.
@@VHBEnginesYou ever see a K20a with a Rbc-1 Cylinder head? It's a Base model engine but has Castings on the intake and exhaust for Loss motion Assembly. From what I've been told it's the same Casting as the K20z3 Head just has weaker guts and different cams.
Got k24a1 head with the valves from that head and using 08 tsx valve springs package Do I use crv k24a1 retainers and keepers cause of the valves or should I use seats, retainers and keepers from 08 tsx ?
