Thank you for explaining. Made it simple and easy to understand. Just a suggestion but if you could please go over ECU's and k swaps, as there is not much in depth info out there regarding that. Thanks
@E-Dod outstanding video, thanks for taking the time to break this down! The big question I still have is what setup to use, and probably the fitting on the timing cover side for K20 swap where I want to keep power steering. I saw a video once where the guy was struggling to run that more efficient setup you were talking about due to the fitting running into the PS pump! Thats why I was thinking just using the factory rail but if you have any suggestions, or if someone has done this I'm all ears 👂🤣🤣
Oh good point! I wonder if you can use the center feed port of the K-Tuned fuel rail as the feed then use the other port for the FPR? How much power are you planning to make?
I would convert it to a return style system like what I showed in this video. That way you can hook a vacuum line up to your fuel pressure regulator so that fuel pressure will increase with boost pressure. You should be able to run some AN lines from your fuel tank.
Great explanation! I have a 1989 CRX with a K24A2 and I've installed a KTuned fuel kit with lines, a rail and regulator. I went to start it for the first time and it only ran for 5 seconds. I hear fuel rushing thru the regulator return. If I spray the intake it stays running so I know it's a fuel problem. I can bump up pressure but won't start. It's not holding and I think it's all going thru return. Any ideas?
I plumbed it like the last one you showed (the recommended way). FPR after the rail and return coming out the bottom. I have a Walbro 255 pump. Is it 50 psi pressure while running or off. The pump primes but doesn't seem to hold.
@@bobbydelamar606 You should be able to turn the key on & off a few times to prime the fuel pump and reach the 50psi pressure on the pump. It should also be able to hold the pressure for a few mins no problem.
@@e-dod I'll try but I also have 4 codes stored in Hondata. Seems I have to turn down on it a lot to reach 50...? Ktuned told me it has to be running to adjust, is that true?
@@bobbydelamar606 Interesting. I am pretty sure I just primed it and set the pressure. you should definitely double check and adjust if needed while running though. Can you view your codes? you have laptop hooked up and loaded the tune right?
@@e-dod Yes I can view codes and the tune was right, but I'll recheck it. I'm cleaning up wiring right now so I don't remember them all. P0600, vtec code. I heard I need a d series coolant temp sensor and not sure about the engine oil pressure switch??? Also there 2 connectors on the vtec block, one is not being used on this Rywire harness....?
dumb question here.. but where should the line go for the vaccum hose on the fpr. So from fpr vac hose, where does the end line go to? for stock NA k24a2 eg application
Anywhere on the intake after the throttle plate. You can also put a vacuum tee in between the line that runs to your brake booster: www.amazon.com/Vibrant-2691-Anodized-Aluminum-Manifold/dp/B0018033OQ
I am not sure. I would be worried about pressure differentials on the side with the return vs without the return. I would assume on a lowered power car this would be fine, if you really needed to do this. But on higher powered cars I would stick to the recommended approach. I'm no expert though, this is just my theory.
I have an ek with the d16y7, I've been thinking on putting a turbo and once the engine blows I'll k swap it. Do you think it's a good idea or should I just save up for the k swap?
I'd just save for the K. I thought about doing the same thing many times but in the end I was glad I just went K. Also the D16 engines are worth a lot more nowadays since they're more rare so not blowing it up will be good for selling it and getting some money back from the cost of the K-Swap.
@@wolang2252 No problem, there is a lot to research! VTECAcademy has a really good video series on a budget K-swap that I got most of my info from. And of course I have my video series as well where I swap my 95 Civic :)
I uploaded some diagrams and spreadsheets to my website article: edodsgarage.com/technical/k-swap-fuel-systems/index.html If you have any specific questions let me know.
@@e-dod need help deciding which FPR to go with. My setup is dual aem 400lph 2200cc injectors and goal of 750 ish awhp. Should I go with direct mount to fuel rail fpr or multi port radium fpr?
@@wickedsatan1 that's a serious setup! I don't really have much experience with something that high horsepower but I have seen others on YT just running one fuel line up to the engine bay and using a Y Fitting like this to connect the two pumps: www.motionraceworks.com/products/fragola-8-to-dual-6-y-900609-bl?currency=USD I honestly was not aware of multi port regulators. Seem so much simpler to use a Y fitting and just have one line running up to the engine bay unless there are serious advantages to a multi port.
