Showing all the possibilities to modding a KA24E engine for a 87-97 Nissan D21 89-94 Nissan 240sx I'm on Instagram as curtis.fox91. Install the app to follow my photos and videos. invitescon...
That "cold air intake" you showed was really a hot air. The stock intakes pulls air from the fender well. I know the aftermarket ones look cool but stocks better.
Just a heads up on the headers mentioned for the hardbodys. 99% of the cheap headers out there are for the 4X4 variations of the D21. They will NOT fit the 2wd trucks without modifying the headers and smashing your firewall in so that the headers can clear. Im speaking from firsthand experience.
@@curtfox91 the flanges are the same, however the 240 headers are too long and will bump into the torsion bars as well on the d21’s. 240sx’ didn’t have torsion setups so you’ll have to chop, bend, and make em fit.
I just ran into this on mine I ordered the header and it was unspecified wether it was for a 4x4 or a 2wd and we put it on and it hit the cab and the torsion bar but we cut re angled and welded the header and now it clears everything and has room for the pipes and muffler
Nice truck. I have a green 96 extended cab 4wd with a custom flatbed and 5 speed. I rebuilt the engine a couple years ago for a total of 1500. Thats including a slight overbore and a new crank. It's so fun to drive. Imo best mod to do first would be shocks and decent wheel/tire combo to match what you use it for.
Glad I found this channel and video. Just bought a '95 XE and was thinking about what mods I can do, as it is stock. One main issue I have is not the engine. I cannot seem to find a 6ft. tonneau cover for it. Any ideas?
Hey if you do the timing chain. Make sure and get the auto adjustable tensioner Or do what I did and just cut a 1/4 chunk of a m8 bolt and put it inside the chain tensioner ram/in front of the spring. Put the chain on first then bolt the tensioner on. If you can't bolt the tensioner on or the chain is too tight, then shorten the spacer/bolt that is inside the tensioner. Do this till its just right and it works great. This way it has a taught chain even with the engine off.
Heres an update on my truck. It's still running and I got the auto adjuster and installed it with the rubber plug on the timing cover. Copied what Mr Jim did in his install video without pulling the front cover by drilling a 1 1/2" hole where the tensioner is. Now I have a new issue that i thought was chain rattle, its a collapsed lifter and it ticks when its hot. Happened after shifting at redline and it backfired. Looking into getting the mechanical lifters and matching cam from O&J so I don't have to deal with the hydraulic ones that always fail eventually.
I did an Egr/vacuum delete in my 97 Nissan Hardbody, after putting headers on it, in idle the RPM’s bounce from 1500-2k constantly .. it’s really embarrassing at stop lights 😅 it’s a Ka24e , any ideas?
I have a question. . . I have a Ka24E engine lying around. What will i need to get it running in another car? I heard a standalone ECU would be great but how would i connect it to the Rx7 Dash harness. Do i connect wires that correspond with one another. I do have the OEM ECU so if i can still use that, that would be great. But if necessary i will get a standalone It ran before i swapped it for an SR20det so i'd like to use this engine in another Chassis (Rx7 FC, It's a cheap budget drift car. Nothing crazy just something for seat time to see if drifting is what i want to do later in the future.) All i want to know what's needed to get the engine running when i turn the key. Thank you I heard many bad things about the KA24E but i don't want to give up on it. Maybe i'll turbo it in the future . . . .
I have no Knowledge of Swapping the KA24E in another chassis besides the Hardbody or the 240sx. Many bad things like what? There’s more good then bad with these Engines there literally bulletproof. Dont take my word but i would assume all you need for a KA and another chassis is Correct Harness and ECU. Its such a simple engine but also these have alot of vaccum components to so i wouldn’t know about that aspect.
@@curtfox91 thanks for your knowledge. I did a bit more research and it does seem like I need a standalone ECU to get it going. I know the motor runs so any problems I run into are mine and not the motors fault. From what I was told they aren't good motors but that's because the people who owned them I guess didn't give it a chance or are owned by younger people who just want 1jz or other Japanese motor. But from my research these motors are really good and can put a decent amount of HP. I'll do more research and then start my swap soon. Again thanks
none!! you got to piece one together. best thing to do is get a universal kit for intercooler and pipings, rev9 manifold, bigger injectors and a ebay turbo. and tuning would keep it alive so pick a ecu that your tuner is comfortable with
2:17 I don’t think they’re cheap anymore I have a 94 Yota and was just looking around for 22RE’s and they go for like 2,000 now so I’m sure the KA24E is about the same
If you have a Rattle that doesn’t go away that means your chain. Is to loose and can cause your chain to come off the crank if that happens you can lock your motor up. The best way you can fix is just redo the timing chain and install new guides the newer guides are stronger then those OEM ones.
4:13 Never understood that mod. You are going from the "Colder" side of the Motor, to all the way across the block "Hotter" side for "Cold Air" . Mine stays on the Left Side.."Coldest" side of the Motor.
4:13 do NOT get a cold air intake just buy a snorkel it'll look a million times better, it'll be cheaper and you can wade through rivers. It's cold air to start with since all 4WD's get air from the fenders.
Obd2 plug ins don’t work as our obd2 ports don’t work, there a fake plugin and would still need to use a Nissan-2 diagnostic plug, as well as dyno tuning, these ecu’s can’t be altered only chipped so it can’t be changed on the fly. We usually go to Jim wolf technology for a chipped ecu or just stand alone from megasquirt. These engines do love turbos but hate nitrous oxide ka24 as in e and de tend to just fall on there face and blow up.
Also these trucks have a really bad timing chain rattle that develops in later mileage as the tensioner from these trucks greatly relies on oil pressure as the spring in the piston gets really weak. The remedy for this is a self adjustable tensioner, while your at it might as well get the adjustable cam sprocket because these trucks have bad low end torque the rpm these trucks start to move is around 4400rpm.
Bruh there are soo many simple mods you left out for horsepower and torque gains..alot of horse and torque is restricted from the factory..once you open it up and let it breathe, its a whole different animal
Its not really a legit instructional video its more like a Parody of one. Just explaining what can be done to the KA24E in lamest terms. But thanks the information is valid and useful thats the main point
