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Kawasaki Vulcan, how to fix coolant leaks and replace clutch cables 

spelunkerd
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This is an amateur demonstration of how to diagnose and fix a coolant leak near the clutch cover in a 1995 Kawasaki Vulcan VN800A. Along the way, we show how to disassemble and adjust the clutch cable, how to remove and replace the clutch cover, and we explore how the clutch cover is integral to the design of the water pump, clutch, and starter motor.
The information contained here is offered in good faith, for free, but is not guaranteed as to accuracy or safety. Not all steps are shown. DIY vehicle repair will always be inherently dangerous, so do not attempt this kind of repair yourself unless you are willing to accept those risks. Always consult your dealers repair manual for definitive guidelines, and never trust one source for critical information.

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11 сен 2021

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Комментарии : 51   
@THEMOWERMEDIC1
@THEMOWERMEDIC1 2 года назад
Long time no See buddy!. The hair stood up on my arm When your video graced my recommended!
@mdwdirect
@mdwdirect 2 года назад
I really enjoy all of your content. Thank you!
@jayworth5082
@jayworth5082 Год назад
Thanks much for the straight to the point videos. Very nicely done.
@TheSteelBlinds
@TheSteelBlinds 2 года назад
Excellent video as usual sir!
@heartlandmechanic
@heartlandmechanic 2 года назад
I'm with you on the water pump seal , no need to open up another can of worms . Great video .
@Don.Challenger
@Don.Challenger 2 года назад
Regrets I've had a few, but those can be either way; so, like you two, do what you suspect isn't working and leave a happy old dog to lay.
@tylerwatt12
@tylerwatt12 10 месяцев назад
Thanks for this video, you helped me change out my clutch, and add a clutch cable. The previous owner had an autoclutch with no clutch cable or lever.
@GnarCor
@GnarCor 2 года назад
very informative excellent video.
@richlachapelle182
@richlachapelle182 9 месяцев назад
I have an ‘05 VN800 with 1,500 miles. I know some things changed in ‘05 but they are still very similar. I plan to go totally over it this winter.
@melissagoodall2373
@melissagoodall2373 Год назад
I am new to learning to work on my bike. I need to replace my clutch cable I think so this is very helpful :)
@Akkiinsanity1
@Akkiinsanity1 2 месяца назад
Thank you for that video
@itchaban
@itchaban Год назад
Excellent!!!!
@spelunkerd
@spelunkerd Год назад
Thanks, man. Glad it helped.
@GB600RR
@GB600RR Год назад
thanks for sharing, such a good video! one day i will help my Kawasaki owner friends
@norton8ball
@norton8ball 11 месяцев назад
Thanks a lot, i have the same problem, now i can fix it 👍
@shawnmrfixitlee6478
@shawnmrfixitlee6478 2 года назад
Great share ! Really ENJOYED .. Very good detailed info ..
@spelunkerd
@spelunkerd 2 года назад
Thanks, Shawn!
@MrJgem12345
@MrJgem12345 2 года назад
Where was this video 3 months ago!!!! I struggled SO hard with my clutch cover (only to find out the pack was too thick)
@jetprovost503
@jetprovost503 Год назад
I have just replaced my clutch disc and alsonthe 2 red coolant seals.....like the way you did it....I took it for a test drive for 10 minutes...no leaks....I hope it stays like that!!!!
@Buchoass
@Buchoass Год назад
Hi Dave. Have a look at 10:00 you might want to edit that part out. BTW Awesome videos. ~Cheers~ B.Champagne
@spelunkerd
@spelunkerd Год назад
It's rare for me to not want to edit some aspect of a video, and it isn't easy to edit a video these days. About 5 years ago RU-vid allowed annotations, where the author could add a remark even years later! I really liked annotations because I could clarify a point, acknowledge an error, or expound on some aspect. For some reason RU-vid deleted that functionality, at about the same time they were trying to make videos visible on phones and many smaller devices. Thanks for stopping by!
@Buchoass
@Buchoass Год назад
@@spelunkerd It shows your private information on that receipt. Address name and phone I was gonna call you to let you know after i sent a message here, thinking i might draw unwanted attention to it. Maybe you will need to reupload it again and lose the views but protect your privacy here . ~Cheers~ B.Champagne
@spelunkerd
@spelunkerd Год назад
@@Buchoass Ah ha! To my surprise, RU-vid have added an editor that allowed me to blur the offending document. Thanks for pointing it out to me, I doubt many noticed. Dave
@Buchoass
@Buchoass Год назад
@@spelunkerd I am a home Inspector and see things most do not. I am happy that we worked together as two good people to prevent any bad people from doing anything bad/wrong with that info. The blurr option worked great, I just watched it. Awesome! ~Cheers~ B.Champagne Keep posting your great content here. Love it.
@rightconditions2789
@rightconditions2789 2 года назад
Long time! Second like
@l3vnoml332
@l3vnoml332 2 года назад
i wish you would've showed us how to change the oil and water seal as well that was the part i needed to replace on mine. but thanks great video//
@spelunkerd
@spelunkerd 2 года назад
The water seal is easy, you just pry it out, with care not to mar the surface of the shaft. Some use a drywall screw to get hold of it, then pull. Pay careful attention to the orientation of the seal, it might be possible to put the seal in backwards. Typically the lip of the seal on the shaft is designed so water pressure tends to close the gap, meaning you can infer which way it goes in by understanding that mechanism. I'm told the oil seal is much more difficult in the Vulcan, requiring removal of the engine, splitting the case, and insertion from behind. So, hopefully the oil seal is OK.
@l3vnoml332
@l3vnoml332 2 года назад
@@spelunkerd thank ufor a quick replyhow would iknow if oil sealneed replacement i have fluid coming out of the weep hole when i started the enginethe fluids looks like oil n collantbut its greed so it could be gas n oil too not sure. I see oil in the airfilter rouded box n some oil coming out of exhaust pipe n a thick white smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe. What do u call or part # is the water seal so i could order them. Online. ?
@spelunkerd
@spelunkerd 2 года назад
@@l3vnoml332 Did you mean to say the fluid is green, the same color as the coolant? If so, I would presume it is the water seal and fix that, and see if it works. You can get the part number from a Kawasaki parts lookup, which is available from various dealers online, or you can go to a local dealer. You will need to replace the right side cover gasket as well, as shown in the video I did here. You can also get a pdf copy of the Kawasaki dealers repair manual online directly from Kawasaki for a reasonable price.
@l3vnoml332
@l3vnoml332 2 года назад
@@spelunkerd no the color is not green it looks clear w mixed of oil n remeber on ur video you have coolant leak on top of ur rightside water pump cover i have the same situaution but mine is oil no coolat. Maybe coz i plugged something to seal the oil drainage hose its probably the reason i get some oil insde yhe air filter box coz the drainage hose is attached underneath the air filter box. I just figure out why oil n very thick white smore n misfiring like a gunshot coming out of the tail pipe the mis firing gunshot soud comes out air filter and carburetor area. Coz the last time big leakage happening the last time I started the bike dont know exactly where its coming fom so when i looked i saw that there was a hole so I immediately got a bolt n screwedi in to the hole to seal it I didnt reqlized the that was a peephole till i watch ur video which by the way great job on all ur videos its very helpful for some idiot like myself. So after i watched ur video I immediately took the bolt out of the peephole n took the rubber plug i put inside the drainage hose that attacheto the airfilter n i drained the coolanti still need to drain the coolant reservoir container n theni will replacethe clutchcover gasket n check the water seal if still intuck coz like u said if aint broken then dont fix it. So after all those things i dont know what else to do. Any idea? I will replace spurplugs ton see if i could see the two horizontal line that u were talking about but i didnt see where u adjustin or turning to expose the 2 horizontal lines. Thanks again pls tx me on my cel just incase i need to get an advise fr u in regards to the bike if thats ok w u. 5103678730
@spelunkerd
@spelunkerd 2 года назад
@@l3vnoml332 The rubber tube that hangs down from the air filter housing of the Kawasaki Vulcan is there to allow oil that is drawn in from the crankcase a way out. It is meant to hang loosely down to let excess oil drip onto the ground. Modern cars have a PCV valve, but in the Kawasaki there is no PCV, they have a vent tube connecting crankcase to air intake, with a tube to let oil drip away. I would not plug it off. You mentioned backfiring and white smoke out the exhaust, and a leak of the weep hole. I'm not sure those problems are all connected. Regarding your question of the horizontal lines, those were highlighted white by a previous mechanic to make them more visible. Yes, you could approach the problem by checking valve lash, and valve lash adjustment is an important routine maintenance procedure you need if it is overdue. While in there you can clean the reed valves and look for other issues. If you have a lot of white smoke out the exhaust I'd be thinking of a head gasket leak or some other cause for coolant to get into the combustion chambers. The problem set you're describing sound bad enough you might consider getting a pro involved, if only to help with diagnosis.
@shanemurphy8318
@shanemurphy8318 11 месяцев назад
Can you please please provide the links for the coolant tube and its two seals!!!???
@spelunkerd
@spelunkerd 11 месяцев назад
I went to my local Kawasaki dealer and bought them directly from them. OEM Kawasaki part numbers for those you request are printed on the plastic bags as shown in the video, at about 5:49 of the video. Part numbers for generic parts will be different. Anything not in the video is lost. You can get more detail from the Kawasaki dealers repair manual, and the last time I checked they are relatively inexpensive pdf files directly from the Kawasaki website.
@VENUSWR
@VENUSWR 2 года назад
I have 1998 Vulcan 800 and the Neutral light is always on (even in gear) and there is no power to the headlight bulb. Can you make a video how to fix it? Thanks
@spelunkerd
@spelunkerd 2 года назад
This is an interesting problem that I likely will never encounter. Whether you want to jump into repairing it is more the decision about whether you have the time, the interest, the skill set and the tools to do the job. I'd start with the wiring diagram. On the wiring diagram for the VN800A, there is a light green wire that comes off the neutral switch, which is under the transmission cover on the left side. The switch simply grounds the wire. That wire leads to a T intersection, where one branch goes to the neutral light on your speedometer display, and the other branch leads back to the main junction/fuse box. So, if the switch is stuck closed, or if there is any frayed wire touching the frame of the bike anywhere along its course, the light will stay on continuously. First I'd put the bike into gear, so the wire should not be grounded. Then I would backprobe that light green wire somewhere, probably at the junction box, to see if it is continuously grounded. Then I'd trace the wire along its course, looking for chafing of the insulation, or anywhere the wire could be touching ground or another wire. It might be simple corrosion at a connector. Or perhaps a witless mechanic grounded that wire when trying to hotwire the bike or when trying to fix another problem. Hopefully there is a connector at the T intersection, and if so you can disconnect and inspect it, to decide which branch of the T the bad ground is on. That allows you to narrow your search to only one of the three branches. If your hunt leads you to the switch, you can remove the switch and see if it is stuck closed. Chasing a bad ground can be painstaking, but in a bike you'll hopefully find it quickly. Or, you could ask a pro to do it and he likely would find it in an hour or two.
@kevinx1942
@kevinx1942 2 года назад
What are those seals call on that pipe?
@spelunkerd
@spelunkerd 2 года назад
Kawasaki just call it a seal, so use the part number to get the exact product. The part number is shown in the video, 92093-1427. It seems to be made of silicone, it is not just a simple O ring. I found it tricky to slip the pipe in, with the case bolts and the lower coolant hose having to line up, too. Eventually I got it. It might have been easier to put the lower coolant hose on after the cover and the pipe were in place.
@Metalhead396
@Metalhead396 2 года назад
What's the part number for that rebuild kit and where can I get one?
@spelunkerd
@spelunkerd 2 года назад
I ordered parts separately from the local Kawasaki dealer based on the parts diagram of the dealer repair manual. You can also get parts diagrams from online dealers with a simple search. If you pause the video here in HD, full screen, you can read the part numbers on the bags. I ordered two seals and the right side cover gasket. You can also order parts online, I've used Bike Bandit in the past. Unfortunately my one experience with Bike Bandit wasn't great, I waited almost two months for a chain to come, they didn't send it until all parts were available.
@Metalhead396
@Metalhead396 2 года назад
@@spelunkerd Thanks, I found some.
@Diman9026
@Diman9026 4 месяца назад
How can i see if water going in the oil for broken seal?
@spelunkerd
@spelunkerd 4 месяца назад
Oil and water layer out, with water being more dense. So, when you change oil if there is a lot of water inside the pan you'll see water come out first, especially if the engine has been cold and sitting for a few minutes. The Kawasaki has a strange design with the water pump separated from pan oil by a seal, which could leak without you knowing.
@Diman9026
@Diman9026 4 месяца назад
@spelunkerd thanks, i did yesterday the change of seal cover cluntch, but I not use the red silicon like in the video,I hope that will work so
@willsrestorations
@willsrestorations 2 года назад
So probably the first video where I have to disagree with a few things, first and foremost is the use of any razor blade on an aluminum surface to clean gasket material, what should be used is the 3M Brown gasket discs that can be used with a drill or by hand if you choose and some permatex gasket remover. When I did the clutch on my 99 Vulcan I did change the seal behind the impeller and it was slightly worn, my logic is once I have it open I like to address all issues when things are more than 15 to 20 years old because I don't like going back inside something to fix something I should have addressed to begin with while I have access. Also using a rubber mallet removed my cover pretty quickly as some of your viewers may use your technique and not be as gentle and why the breaking or cracking something. I used a very very thin application of red permatex on the matting surfaces to ensure there would be no leaks. Also the manual does not specify that you should use blue loctite but I used a very small amount on each bolt to guard against loosening from vibration and talked everything with a digital torque wrench. I also use a little red permatex gasket sealer around the rubber grommets for the waterway piping line. But I can't emphasize enough to your viewers to please avoid using a razor blade on such a surface as this can cause major major issues especially when there are many things on the market that can make removing that gasket a breeze, I also wipe down all the services with alcohol to ensure that it was spotless and free of any oily residue. All in all not a bad video but I still think you should have changed the seal inside the impeller as it was so easy and only took a few minutes. Other than all that thanks again for your informative videos which I do appreciate. As I believe I did put a link to my 99 Vulcan which is pretty much a showroom piece as a daily driver. photos.app.goo.gl/eheQaMh86tXMsCGb9
@spelunkerd
@spelunkerd 2 года назад
I love remarks like this, they get visitors thinking and make the comments section rich in added detail. There is no doubt that power tools with a cookie disk are dramatically faster and easier. I use a cookie air sander all the time for cast iron blocks. And as you point out there is a learning curve for the tedious razor blade technique. An inexperienced user can easily gouge a divot, but he does get instant feedback regarding his error. Like many in this industry, I have been wary of using power tools to take off gasket material from aluminum, and although I have a set of Roloc discs I haven't yet had the courage to use them on aluminum. As you know the risk is the chance of causing a subtle erosion of flatness by taking off a little more material in one area. It would be hard to recognize, there is no visible divot to offer instant feedback, and it could take only a few seconds to cause a major problem. Excellent points about the alcohol and the water pump seal, I have a feeling I'll be going back there some day. Nice to meet you!
@willsrestorations
@willsrestorations 2 года назад
@@spelunkerd the discs by 3M I am referring to offer removing gasket material on all surfaces including aluminum, they are nothing more then Brown scuff pads and will not damage any aluminum surface or metal surface ever and that's why I use some gasket remover on the surface and let that set up for about 10-15 minutes and all my gaskets come off so easy and leave a great matting finish for the new gasket, I also put those discs on my Dremel with the Dremel extension one which of course is purchased separately from the Dremel itself. In the link to my prior post, you can see how I take care of my 99 Vulcan as it is in absolute 100% pristine condition. Everything I do on this bike as far as repairs and aesthetics is done with tremendous amount of thought process and research. But I always love your videos Man they are definitely far greater than most of the videos you will see on RU-vid and you're knowledge is tremendous in so many fields and I respect that
@chromevanadium5825
@chromevanadium5825 2 года назад
Great, but the thread lock should not be used on clutch cover bolts! You can have problems next time to get them out even with a removable, the blue one! The manual also says -no thread lock!
@spelunkerd
@spelunkerd 2 года назад
You make a good point, even though it wasn't discussed in my 25 year old manual. I can see why they might do that, there are thread inserts that I suppose could be pulled out. There was threadlocker already installed by the factory in the top most bolt, and the manual describes threadlocker there. No mention of threadlocker elsewhere. Lately I've been using blue locktite in many applications, and to my surprise it is easy to break free, sometimes too easy! So, I'm not too concerned. Even so, your remark is a helpful addition to anybody who stops by, thanks for pointing that out.
@locomojo0485
@locomojo0485 2 года назад
That water pipe design is so stupid... AND they didn't even correct it on the Vulcan 900s, they are exactly the same. Only a Kawasaki would have such a flaw in the design. I'm irritated with mine, after a clutch change the water seal now leaks. Have to redo the ENTIRE job now. Probably just gonna sell the stupid bike. My Honda and Yamaha never ever had a stupid problem.
@lyingliar
@lyingliar 3 месяца назад
Is there a gasket on the connection to the exhaust?
@spelunkerd
@spelunkerd 3 месяца назад
Yes the exhaust pipes have gaskets, and I wasn't sure I'd be able to save the old ones so I got replacements before I did the job. It was a waste of a few bucks. Those exhaust flange gaskets are tough enough to tolerate high temp, and they come off easily and can be reused. I never used the ones I bought.
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