Bought right after Dave Cam reviewed them and couldn’t be happier. I haven’t noticed any issue with throttle pedal on mine. I actually just put stiffer spring in brake the other day and it made a big difference in consistency for me. Was waiting for another top tier review of these after Dave’s. Thanks for review and all the work you do in community. Keep it up!!!!
It was his review that sold me, I also messaged him and he said these are going to be his go to pedals. Mine coming tomorrow, glad your happy with them👍
@@darmichar73 Would you believe had them 2 weeks and not used them yet, had a problem with my base coming. Got it all this morning so will be using the tomorrow, they look fantastic. Great to hear your happy with them, absolute minefield choosing pedals😱
I've had my XP1s since September of last year and after a bit of trouble to begin with, they're now pretty much set and I've been pretty happy with them. I like how smooth they are and I like the dual-stage brake. Here's some of the issues, just in case it helps anyone else: When I first got them there was a fair bit of jitter in the sensors for the accelerator and clutch. The support from Simlab has been pretty good. Although I feel it took longer than it really needed to, they were pretty responsive, which was nice. After a bunch of troubleshooting, they sent me a new controller box which resolved the issue. The clutch came without the bolts at the pivot point tightened down, so the pedal jiggled. It was hard to tighten this down myself because both sides are connected together, so you need two hex wrenches that are the same size and I only have one set. I had to borrow one from a neighbor. The clutch also came without the bolts on the pedal face angle bracket tightened down. Luckily, this was an easy fix. The clutch manual states "This is the only pedal which we limit to only using the top adjustment point on the pedal arm. Because of the swiveling pivot part, we do not support any of the other adjustment holes." This limits the adjustability of the pedal and the setting of the bite point. I've actually moved to to the middle hole and it's worked just fine, although I've adjusted the spring so that it's smooth all the way through the range instead of it having a bite point. I'm not sure if this makes a difference. The pedals squeaked when I first got them. I had to lubricate the bushings straight out of the box, and I had to do it a couple times. They're now quiet, though When I first set up the pedals, they all extended out to different points. While troubleshooting the jitter issue, I disassembled the accelerator and found that the soft pad that's suppose to cushion the pedal when released had come lose, which is why the pedal was extending further than the brake. Since I had the issue from the beginning, it evidently came from SimLab that way. I glued it back on and now it's the same height as the brake and much quieter when released. About a month later, the pad that cushions the accelerator when it's pressed came lose. I haven't bothered to take it all apart to fix it, though. Too much work and since I don't usually slam the accelerator down to full, it hasn't bothered me much. Although this is just personal preference, the accelerator pedal is short, which makes it difficult to heel/toe. I was able to solve this by designing and printing a replacement pedal. If you don't have a 3D printer, you'll just have to get used to it, I guess. I also printed up a brake pedal because I prefer mine to have fairly flat face There were no color-codings or markings indicating which spring or elastomer is which. Evidently, the elasotmers are now marked, so that's nice. The adjustment screws that are at your heal are really annoying, so I would recommend using a heel plate. Even with a heel plate, I find the armatures fairly long, so the face plates are higher than I like. Putting the face plate to it's lowest setting wasn't enough, but I found I can turn the face plates over to be able to get them lower. The SimLab logo is upside down, but makes no difference when using them, so doesn't bother me a bit. And a tip for calibrating the pedals in the sim... I load a Race Director profile that's linear with no deadzones. I then calibrate the pedals in the sim and then switch back to my normal curves with deadzones.
Thanks for your feedback. I got exactly same issues as yours (clutch / throttle jitter, clutch bolts not tightened down, etc...). Simlab sent another control box, I'm waiting for it to be delivered, I hope it will solve my issue. To sum up, that's a good pedals set for that price, with good looking design ! First users just have to face some early stage issues at the beginning of this product life...
Thanks for the review, mine are being delivered today. Have been racking my brain deciding between VRS, VNM, Simgrade and P1000, decided on these in the end. Went for the simplicity of adjustment, look and the look like they won't break.
How do you feel about these a few hours later? Got the p1000, but I feel like they're unfortunately not the right pedal set for me, so thinking about buying the XP1.
@@lorenz7550 Should have arrived at 12.30 said one stop away, drove past and now coming tomorrow 🤬 I will post when I get them on tomorrow 🤞 was so close to getting the P1000 but decided I wasn't needing the add ons as have bass kicker on my pedal plate. Speaking to Dave cam kind of sold me, have you seen his review.
@@karlallen6055 I watched Dave's after I watched this and he sold me on them due to the fact that he's used them on his personal rig for the last 4 months since receiving them.
I had the simagic p2000. replaced them with these. Couldn't get consistent trail braking mid corner with them. Switched to these and I find getting to 70-80% pressure easier and more consistently and find trail braking much more consistent. Awesome pedals
@@RichardSchouteren Unless they recently updated the software, like real recently this doesn't work. I have to disable Real-Time Protection in W11 defender, which always restarts itself, it cant be disabled. (It labels RD as unknown software and refuses to install). Install race director, update to the newest version and Im good until I reboot and then W11 defender deletes RD, and I have to repeat the process.
Great Review as always! I also have these pedals since it was launched. I replaced the asetek invictas with these pedals and my left knee does not hurt anymore :) This is a keeper for sure!
Can confirm with the sensitivity issues. I’m specifically facing an issue with throttle position sticking for a fraction of a second. It’s intermittent but does happen mid corner when in the sim. Still great pedals though so hopefully I can get this issue sorted.
My set (3 pedals) were all spiking after 2 months of use; not going from 0 to 100, more like the input not staying constant; it is fixed with a firmware update :)
Thanks After 5 years pushing on a Thrustmaster T3PA Pro ... After more than 2 years watching pedals set reviews ... I got my XP1 3 pedals set at the end of November. My comments : TL;DR = one of the cheapest, but also very good. Happy ! Not TL;DR (at all !) : not absolutely perfect through. *First setting* : I used the Sim-Lab pedal plate that was provided with my GT1-EVO kit. It has some limitations regarding lateral positioning and back-forward tilting. *Second settings* : I used extra alu. profiles to support the pedals + the original pedal plate, reversed, in front of the pedals. Almost like a car floor if you wish. Much better with a twist. It also allows for more lateral position settings. I like to have the pedal set more to the left, and especially, the brake pedal aligned as much as possible with my left leg. It's not as confortable with the GT1-EVO pedal plate only. Note that I would not pretend to be a very talented sim racer. Even so, I put most settings to the harder position, even when coming from a very soft TM T3PA Pro. *On all three pedals :* - tighten the pedal plate firmly (the lower screw just behind the pedal plate). At first, I didn't check this setting. They were tightened, but not enough for the brake, and during my first week, the pedal plate slipped back while braking hard - I completely removed the blue front screws. First, this has to do with the "socks or shoes" question. I would recommend shoes. You can drive with socks, but without any heel plate, the screws can easily hurt the bottom of your heels. I like the full travel from the throttle, as well as the other pedals. Anyway, the pedal brake is more limited by the force you can repeatedly apply. - I set the arms to the upper position. I still feel confortable with this part of the stiffness settings. - a little bit of lower dead zone for all 3 pedals. *Throttle* : be careful when calibrating. If you push the pedal the harder you can when calibrating, you may not be able to reach the maximum throttle while in game (at least, when you forget about it), except using a huge dead upper zone. I recalibrated and stopped pushing as soon as I felt the metal. Doing so, you still need a dead zone, but much smaller. I found myself very slow in ACC before realizing I was not "pedal to the metal". *Brake* : I'll start from the mechanical point of view only. I started with the softer combination, because of the Thrustmaster set I used. The pedal quickly started to make a squeaky noise; I don't know if it comes from the spring or the elastomer. I switched to the almost hardest combination of spring and elastomer (shore 70). At first, it was silent, but it quickly started to make the same noise. You get used to it, but you also can't help but thinking there's a problem. I have not tried to remove the spring and use the spacer instead. Yet ... From the feeling point of view : nice ! The hardest setting if even better. As I said, I have experience in sim racing, but that doesn't make me a good sim racer. And I have 5 years of T3PA Pro to forget. But I already can feel the improvements. Not huge in performance, but much more in pace and consistency. *Clutch* : not a lot to say. Same remarks than the throttle regarding the calibration. I don't get it : you are using this clutch as a ON/OFF one ??? Wow ... I think you need a bit of progressiveness most of the time ...
I had a similar issue with the squeaking, although it was right out of the box with both the clutch and brake. It turned out to be the bushings. After lubricating them a couple times I haven't had any issues with it. I've also found the same issue with calibrating the clutch and accelerator. Because the end stops have fairly soft silencers, the endpoints are a bit 'mushy'. I'm just careful to stop pressing right when I feel a little resistance, and then after the calibration, I put a little dead zone in.
@@pandacongolais I first tried silicone since it doesn't attract dirt but it didn't work for very long. I then used WD40. It took a couple times, so it seems it takes a bit for the lubricant to work itself into the joints. Here's what SimLab recommends in the manual: As for lubrication ( ), we generally recommend WD-40 Specialist White Lithium Grease to lubricate moving parts (rotating and sliding). Also, do not forget the spring bolt which also sits in a bushing on the pedal arm.
@@ohgeez9971 Right, I didn't thought to RTFM. How stupid ... Sim-Lab advise the WD-40 Specialist White Lithium. Although a quick check brought me on the Heusinkveld site : they advise the WD-40 PTFE ... Both tell the lubricate the rotation axis. None tells us what to do when the noise come from the spring and/or the elastomer ... Thanks a lot anyway. I think I'll have to test one of these ...
Absolutely, I literally came so close to getting each of the pedals. Saw these on dave cam, but no ther reviews so wasnt sure also someone said he wasn't using them anymore. Sent him a message last Thursday, he said was reviewing other pedal but once he had the XP1 were going back on his rig. That made my mind up, really I wanted the Asetek as I have the wheebase but just too many conflicting reviews (also I have a bad knee). Good luck with your choice, doubt you can go far wrong with any of them.
@@drchtct All a guess unless you've had time with all the pedals, I had 6 pedals in my list. All had great reviews so just comes down to gut feeling, absolutely positive I would have been over the moon with all coming from my CSL elite
When I got my Forte I actually wanted to buy those. I am dutch, they are dutch, so that could be a good combination, but they werent selling yet, so I bought the Forte pedals because I wanted to upgrade them later with the T.H.O.R.P. cylinder and I just did that. I am happy with my choice, but I am pretty sure I would be happy with those as well. They look sick!
Great and thorough review. Been debating between these and the Simagic P1000 will be anxiously waiting for your review of those to help me make my decision. I really take what you say into account when purchasing new gear and I appreciate the hard work and dedication you give us year after year.
Ive tried them at the expo. Expansive but worth the money. You can modelate the brake and throttle precisely. And they look fancy to. I am happy with my fanatec cls pedals that came with a loadcell too for 300$.
Well, crap. I'm in the market for pedals next on my rig. I was torn between the VRS and VNM, but these have a much nicer 'refined' look and I'm accenting my rig in blue... Looks like I know what my next purchase will be.
Have had the pedals for a few months now and have never had an issue with the accelerator pedal. As mentioned, you'll need a heel plate at additional cost and I ended up reversing the the pedal face for racing in socks. Stiffest spring will be a must with 60A elastomer (already installed) for most. Fantastic pedal set.
I upgraded my V3's with BPK to these XP-1's 6 weeks ago and it's a great upgrade. The V3's do feel a bit toy-ish compared to these and the extra customisation is fantastic. My only real annoyance with the pedals is the blue adjuster on the heel which changes the travel distance on the accelerator. It keeps coming loose no matter how much tension I try to put on the locking pin. Thinking of taking them to World's Strongest Man competition to see if those guys can do a better job, but aside from that these are excellent pedals for the money and I would highly recommend.
Hi Will, thanks once more for another brilliant review. I replaced my Fanatec v3's (with BPK) for these about a month ago. It shows that the v3 are becoming outdated, on an average track I am 0.5 seconds per lap faster with these pedals. Modulating the brakes goed much easier and braking is less tricky especially with cars without ABS. The design looks brilliant and it is really easy to swap out springs and elastomers. I had a small issue with the throttle, not going completely back to its original position after releasing the pedal. I loosened the pivot point a little which solved the issue, also informed Sim Lab on the issue. After a couple of days I re-tightened it and no issues since then, so maybe the lube/grease had to spread within the pivot point and the issue solves itself over time using the pedal. I also need to mention, although I have no issues with it having a large shoe size, is that the pedals are really high and that people with normal or small shoe size might need a heel rest to get their feet higher and maybe also need to mount the pedal plates upside down. I also informed Sim Lab about the Trojan warning coming from BitDefender and also from Windows Security if you kill BitDefender. I work in IT since 1997 so not much of an issue for me but can be a showstopper for the average user/consumer. Sim Lab informed me that there would come a software update this January to solve the issue .... so they still have some days left 🙂
Just bought the 3 pedal Black Edition, open box, unused from Micro Center for $548. Also picked up the Sliding pedal base with heel rest. Before buying these I purchased a set of Heusinkveld Ultimate + pedals for $1300. I hadn't mounted those to my rig because I was waitng for other items and the more I looked at them the more I thought they were overkill for me personally. I really wanted them, but I just didn't know if I needed them. Yes... I know how that sounds. So, I bought the XP1's and put them side by side with the Heusinkvelds and then made the decision to return the Ultimates and keep the XP1s. Now don't get me wrong, I'm not at all saying the XP1s are equal to the Ultimate + pedals, I'm just saying for me, I had trouble justifying the additional price. I'm 62 years old and was also considering how long I would be able to keep sim racing, given the leg and knee issues I have already had. I (maybe incorrectly) thought that the XP1's might be a little more comfortable considering the wider and curved pedal faces. I really hope I made a good decision. Thanks for a great review, Will.
Wow great review, honestly you have some of the best Sim racing content , and have even surpassed Sim Racing Garage always providing us with the latest and greatest content . My one question on a personal level is I am so heavily into thrustmaster equipment , T gt2 base , 6 plus wheel , load cell pedals, shifter, hub , e brake and more but I want to go with a direct drive wheel set up that good for both pc and console, my budget is only 3000 grand maybe more if I can sell my stuff for around 600 plus , any great suggestions would be greatly appreciated .
To those having the jitter issues, Iracing wouldn't even recognize the pedals because of the jitter, download the firmware update tool and flash the update. It fixes the jitter issues.👍🏻
i still dont understand the prices of these things 3 sensors 2 springs and a little bit of metal for 500 bucks ☠️ for that money you can get a car with hundreds of parts how does this work
Prices (of anything, not just simracing stuff) are not dictated by how much it costs to manufacture things, they are dictated by how much people are willing to pay. Simracers are willing to pay a lot (because, as I just mentioned in another comment, simracing is essentially a hobby dominated by wealthy middle-aged men with way too much money on their hands, and also rather gullible) and so the prices reflect that.
Yo i wish you would include Australian pricing. I get the us market is huge, but as an aussie surely you could include the conversion ( so i dont have too 😅)
Just bought the pedal set with the Boosted code. Love the channel and your reviews happy to support. I Don't like using a cheap spring on top of the load cell. my P2000 have a spring superglued for the throttle and after 9 months they're going out I'm getting ghost loadcell inputs and cross inputs when I press the brake it will register some throttle. I've given up on the Simagic P2000 plus the side to side play in the pedals themselves not 1k quality. Hopefully these serve me better
Fantastic video mate - literlly covered everything. I had the same distinct flickering issue with the throttle. I was worried I'd have to return set, but was pointed to the latest firmware release by thier responsice customer service and boom, flickering gone. Still disappointed that Sim Lab/Grid haven't done something to fix the shady/scary download you have to stress over for their software. Cheers!
Simracing, as presented by RU-vidrs and/or people on r/simracing and such, is essentially a hobby for wealthy middle-aged men who have way too much money on their hands (and/or are sponsored by multiple manufacturers). Hence why so many people firmly believe a "reasonably priced" or "affordable" entry level setup consists of $1000+ DD wheel and $700+ pedals, all mounted in a $1000+ rig in a dedicated room. Because that's what they see on forums and on YT presented as normal and/or essential.
These look really nice and pricepoint is also welcomed. £430 here in UK which is close to the absolute maximum im willing to throw at a pedal set. Sadly this would not go well with my playseat challenge rig 😅 but we are allowed to dream arent we ?!
I have a set of Meca Evo1 pedals. You won't see elastomer blow-outs on those. I was also put off by Hall effect sensor issues (sensitivities) way back, ever since my Fanatec V2 throttle. Just an opinion but the load cell, on my throttle even if unpopular seems more robust to potential electronic interference. Never had issues with load cells. Speaking of, interest choice of load cell for simlabs' brake. Very smilar form factor to Fanatec. Seems a great price. Not my cup of tea though. Great review. 👍
Just got mine in today & after 5hrs of getting them mounted & everything setup been having issues with the throttle... IDK if its RD or what but in RD they calibrate fine & seem to work correctly but after I calibrate them in iRacing I lose like 10-20% on the top end & never can get full throttle unless i reallly press into the throttle IDK if its bad adjustment on the sensor or what waiting on a response back from Sim Lab
Thanks for the review, I decided on these after looking at many options but you had yet to review them now that its out im more confident on my decision, mine still have not arrived but looking forward to driving with them, you didn’t mention the blue screw on the bottom being a problem with socks, some users are complaining about it and that made me buy the heel rest plate to go along with the pedals..
Picked up a triple pedal set of these a month ago locally at Microcenter. They dont seem to come in this color anymore, Mine were labeled "black edition" and are pretty much all anodized black and grey. Best pedals I have used by far. Besides Windows 11 flagging race director software as "malicious content" and deleting it on every restart. Please fix this Simlab.
I ran my Sim Lab XP1 pedals yesterday and was consistently getting input noise. At first it was just the clutch pedal so I set a (7) dead zone so it wouldn’t interfere with in game settings. But then once I went into a game the throttle pedal really started wigging out. I did everything I could to try and eliminate the problem I could think of. I absolutely love the way these pedals feel and look but this is hella annoying. I’m going to fiddle with it for a bit again today but I’m not going to exhaust too many hours trying to get this interference to stop. I got in a couple laps on a few different titles and LOVE THESE PEDALS! But the problem ended up happening in every game after a race or 3.
another great video, I'm not in the market for new pedals but do like the look of this pedal set but please SimLab sort out that cheap floppy cable routing
I've had 2 major failures with the Throttle pedal, both times the bracket holding theagnetic sensor has sheared off the base of the pedal. Once may have been a flaw, but 2. The pedals are not fit for purpose.
That cable for the loadcell on the brake pedal would scare the hell out of me every time I changed the set up. It should be long enough that the stack is not restricted in its movement by the cable. It’s just asking for breakages
Great review!! I had the throttle jumping at idle issue as well. I didn’t see you cover a firmware update, it’s past the software section in the manual and I missed it at first, found it when I was troubleshooting this issue. The firmware update fixed the issue for me. Since mine was jumping so high the deadzone adjustment did not help. I am having a sizing issue with the software, it is sized so big I lose the top and right third of the window. Resolution change did not help this, curious if anyone else has seen this?
i have a fanatec dd1 and i have fanatec clubsport v2 pedals that have recently broken would you say its worth spending a bit more money to get xp1 or vnm or vrs pedals over fanatec clubsport v3s?
thanks for the review ! if you check the p1000 you should test it whith the softest elastomers (grey) in my opinion it's a disaster combining with load cell !
Been itching for an upgrade. Currently running a 14(!) year old set of CST (Cannon simulation technologies) pedals. Probably got one of the last sets ever made, just before the fraud activity. I wonder how these compare. (Or VRS pedals)
Is there a software to change throttle-, brake-, clutch-curves for fanatec pedals? Fanalab or the driver itself doesn't seem to offer something like that.
I've had mine since just before Christmas and both the throttle and brake have got really squeaky to the point they can be heard in the next room, and the wall between the rooms is double skin solid brick, I can hear them over my headset. I've also had an issue where the throttle has lost a little calibration with the top end twice, so I've been losing time and then realised i'm only hitting 95%ish percent with my foot down. Last night the brake wouldn't calibrate at all, it was fixed at 100% and unplug/replug didn't help, had to reflash the same firmware version back onto the pedals for it to work again. Also the little side bolts at the front of the throttle worked loose and had massive side to side wobble so had to retighten those. I was full of hope but there have been moments where I've been tempted to put my T-LCMs back. Hopefully I'll get time this week to have a deeper look at the noise, the rest of it seems better now, so if i can solve that I might start liking them more.
Mine both started squeaking after 2 weeks. Took them apart and applied some white lithium grease to the rods that the springs are on specifically at the rear where it slides thru the plastic end cap, solved it.
For anyone landing here, reflashing the same firmware has fixed my throttle issues and it hasn't happened again, nor have the side bolts worked loose again, so all in all now pretty happy with them.
if the trottle pedal have a 5cm course between 0% and 100% in 16bits that make 1 position every 0.000763 milimeters, so dw i think nobody on earth is talented enought to feel that
Congratulations for your videos. ONE QUESTION, PLEASE: Between the Sim-Lab XP1 and the Simagic P1000 pedals, which is the best, according to your experience and your tests? Thank you in advance.
Pardon my pet peeve…but no manufacturer of any item with a USB connection and priced at anything over $20 or so should be using a mini or micro USB connection any longer. Just stop this already.
i have srp pedals which are pretty cheap. but i think tax time im gong to grab these pedals and hope it helps me on the dirt to be a little more precise on the throttle.. Or should i pay 140 more and get the p2000?
Moza SRP pedals? If so...I recently made the switch from Moza SRP to the P1000i and back to the Moza to compare. The throttle pedal of the p1000 made more of a difference than the brake pedal for my times. Rally...no circuit racing tho. The P1000 feels much better than the SRP in terms of realism...much more adjustable and I feel the P1000 could suit anyone with it's range of adjustments. Edit: just realized you said p2000 lol...I couldn't decide between the 1000 or 2000
@@CodyMcDonald89 I turned up the throttle preload all the way on its original spring and it was to my liking. This seems the case for most but if you want more resistance you can force one of the slightly longer extra clutch springs in there...some like it
I think they should come with a replacement for the outdated v3's. The CSL Elite v2's are much better braking wise and therefor you are going faster. At this point in time Fanatec has a lot of other issues to be solved first though. To my opinion Fanatec should maybe invest less in innovation for a while and focus more on 'copying' their Chinese competitors and challenge them with equal or higher quality products to keep the company financially healthy.
@@user-qb5bd3kc6v Over 8 years with Fanatec, had the DD+ and V3"s on order for over two months to be told March (if I'm lucky) I cancelled last week and got a Asetek forte base and wheels (it's amazing) . I needed PS really but now I've made the decision it gave me so many options in pedals and bases, my XP1's have just arived so super excited. Bye the way Fanatec haven't replied to one of my emails for 7 weeks. They've turned into a disgrace.
Hey everyone. Am new in the world of simulators etc.. and have absolutely 0 knowledge about how everything works and it's compatible. Slowly starting to build my house and will have a dedicated mancave as I want to have a room with simulators for gaming . I have a budget of 20000 euros but I want to be able to play on PC/Playstation and Xbox. Furthermore I don't care for motion simulators but I want it to be a hybrid option so I can race comfortably both as gt and f1 mode . As I race cars in real life pedals seat and steering must be of similar feel . Is there a chance you make a video regarding this budget?
I know I'm going off topic, but it would be nice to make a video about the fanatec situation people are waiting since november for their orders. I know you may have a contract with fanatec and in that case I don't blame you for not doing the video, but if you haven't got a contract it would be nice to inform people about the situation and maybe making fanatec give updates about the situation of the clubsport formula wheel 2.5x, dd1 and clubsport dd+
i will keep my simforge pedals. why do these companies make high end pedals yet dont make plate from them for people with bigger feet i hate almost every pedal i have tried because of that and i have tried 5 diffent load cell pedal i landed on simforge mark 1 for $360 us think of getting the vmn lite pedal the face look big. i mean its so simple to sell some face plates come on for real
These Sim Lab pedals are excellent for people, with bigger feet so what is your issue? People with smaller feet will have issues probably and need a heel rest to get their feet higher or mount the pedal face plates upside down.
@@boostedmedia reviewed it. It was in the beginning. Thanks. But would you commend the Sim Lab over the Asetek? You said the Asetek are good for your type of racing style but if you configure the Sim Lab harder they should be like the Asetek, don't they?
@boostedmedia thanks I and others will appreciate it... its a shame its gone this way and it's having such a bad effect on such a wonderful community 👍🏾
I was on board until I saw that it uses bushings instead of bearings. I worry that brake, in particular, will become sloppy with use. Edit: also, the micro USB is an odd choice.
These 2 stage brake pedals don't make sense for sim racing since they're using a load cell. The first stage is supposed to simulate the empty space between the rotor and the pads. So the "click" at the end of the first stage is supposed to be the pads beginning to touch the rotors, which means up to that point there should be no braking happening. But since it's using a load cell its registering braking all the way through that movement. I have the Asetek Invicta pedals since they came out and at this point I use that click as the max pressure of the brakes, because it makes no sense to have 50% brakes when it moves through the first stage, then 50% brakes using just pressure. Whenever I replace these Aseteks I'm not going to be buying a two stage setup anymore, I also want something with move movement. 20mm is good, but it's limiting to learning proper braking for real sports cars since 20mm braking only applies to certain race cars. Not even all GT3 cars work that way, as it's been shown time and time again now with the Mercedes GT3 that has a significant amount of movement on the brake pedal. You can forget heel and toe shifting with these types of pedals too.
I do a little bit of SIM racing, but no way I can afford this stuff you recommend. You must have money to burn or they are given to you. Your products are just too expensive. Bye!!!!!
