I watched a MILLION of these videos trying to figure out my problem and how to fix it. Your video was the only one that was clear enough to understand and simple enough to follow. I did it! Thank you!!
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OMG! I cannot believe how great your video was. I have literally never made any repairs to an appliance myself and I just diagnosed and repaired my dryer with direction from your video! This is one happy mom who just saved at least $200
Thank you! A $27 part that took me a half-hour to diagnose and replace versus a two-week wait and an estimated $250 repair from an appliance company. You saved us time, money, and convenience. Well made video with clear directions. Excellent job!
Dude, you guys saved my life!! I'm a complete dummy, and without this video, I would have had to hire someone to fix the heating element, or I would have just bought a whole new dryer. You saved me so much money! The video was simple and clear! Thank you so much! You rock!
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Thank you for this video!! After carefully watching your video a few times, I was able to determine that my dryer needed a new element, ordered it and installed it myself. I'm guessing I saved a good $200+ on a service call. Countless thanks to you for sharing your expert knowledge!
This was very helpful, & my Whirlpool dryer is set up exactly the same as the Kenmore used in this video. My power outlets, thermostats, & timer switch all checked out OK, but my heating element did not. After removing it, I found the break in the heating element. Gave me the confidence to order a new heating element & finish the repair myself. Thank you!
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Troy great instructions on replacing element on Kenmore dryer You are clear with great visual in your instruction on repair/replace on the Kenmore Dryer. I have a Kenmore Heavy Dryer "Runs Like a Horse" 35 year old dryer. Replace the heating element in 2005 now I am going to replace the part in 2022. Once the element is in place cleaned and connected to the vent it will be back and drying for another 35 years (maybe) :).
Life saver right here because no one else showed how to fix just the heating element alone! Although I still wish I could just call the man to fix it right now lol thanks!
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Hi, glad your doing this video. It helped me get on the right track. What would help a lot more are closeup shots of your multimeter screen when your using it and close ups of the thermostat being taken out and put back in properly. Again. Good video and glad you have it out there.
Thank you sooo much for posting!! We tried the thermal fuse first...but no go. So with your video - figured out it was the heating element. Ordered from Amazon and ta-da!! Heat!! Very instructional and easy to follow processes. Thanks again!!!!
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@@anonymous7684 Here is the link to the element I ordered. I have a 700 series dryer. You may want to check the number on the element you have. good luck!! www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BYZC219/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This was great! It was super helpful and taught me plenty about dryers. I'm just waiting on my heating element to come in so I can get caught up on my ever-growing pile of laundry. Thanks!
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Great video, you were great at explaining everything. I have a Kenmore 600 series dryer. I followed your video and found the same problem was you did with heating element was open. When I pulled the old one I was able to see the open in mine. Thanks.
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7 years later! Thank you for saving me a service call. Resistor wire was broken. All replaced, with only one slice on my finger, and i think that was from taking off the vent pipe 😄
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The heater box springs were cut O just put a piece of wire use to tight hay bales to make contact n is heating like crazy thanks for ur video amigo valla con Dios❤
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This was the video i needed to see . I to have the single wire to a 2 terminal heating element which confused me. When viewing your video you explain that the thermostat connects to the other terminal of the heating element. Thanks
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Great video... But it doesn't say anything about what you do if you do have continuity on the thermostat and the heater. I found the wiring schematics in the back. He didn't mention to check the non resettable thermal cutoff at the top of the heater duct unit. That also should have continuity on the tabs with at least one wire pulled. If it is open, you won't have power to the heater coils. As it is non-resettable, it will have to be replaced If it's bad, be sure to check your drier vent hose to the outside. It may be full of lint causing the unit to overheat.
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Hi so I replaced the thermostats on both sides the wires are in good condition and I checked every plug for continuity which also was good 👍 and the heating element which is good 👍 I also checked the motherboard and all the plugs had proper flow of continuity 👍 and checked the breaker and power flow but my dryer still won’t heat what else could it be🤦♀️
Great video, thank you! I have discovered that my high limit thermostat is blown so will fix that. On testing also found that my heating element is black from heat but still conducts when tested. Is there any benefit to me installing a new heating element if old one is not blown?
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Will the nasty dust on the wiring in the back cause the dryer not to heat. I did everything I could so far except put it back together. I’m 71 and in a lot of pain and alone. So I ask you this before I put it together…I hope you can help me…
At 3:32, i check for continuity on mine and there is continuity BUT at 3:36, i do exactly what he does and there's no continuity when touching the heating element.... So I'm assuming it has shorted out. What do i do when it's shorted?
What if i use multimeter and the heater core has continuity and the heater fuse? i have an electric kenmore older addition and i wonder if it has a coil? if so where? i only found thermostat
I figure out . Switch plug not connected well . When I move plug has noise and heating work . 😂 thanks anyway. I will do clean and put some dialectic grease 😊
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If that is going out will in work and sometimes and then not? The dryer has proper air flow. Gas dryer 400 series. Maybe a fuse? It does make a clicking noise then will blow cool. Very frustrating....
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(sigh..........) never fails, lol! So, he said either a 2 wire or 4 wire system....Well, I have the 2 red and a wires as shown and then there's an orange wire....so a Three wire system, lol...unbelieveable!
OK, I did all that and I still don't have heat in my dryer. What is the next step? Could my "new" heating element be bad? How can I check? Or could another part be faulty.
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Hi thanks for the great video! I cleaned the vents replaced the thermal fuse, and gas valves. I tested flame sensor,thermal cut off fuse, high limit thermostat and timer they have continuity but it still turns off after 10seconds. Please help.
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I'm having a similar problem to the video, dryers running, the timer is not going down at all and there is no heat, would a broken heating element impact the timer feature on the dryer as well? Thanks a lot for the help!
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Great question, if you have a more technical question that our parts department cannot answer, you can search our over 17,000 answered questions free at our website www.ApplianceVideo.com under our Repair Help section. You can also call our parts department at 1-800-830-5465 and they can give you help 7-days A week ,or search at www.SaveMoreOnParts.com .
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Have a dryer that the element won't heat. When you turn it on plugged in 120v reaches the element fine when you turn the dryer on heat and turn it on. The thermal switches have no resistance when turned off as they should. The element tests good as it has 10 ohm resistance and does not short to ground. There's no apparent physical problem with the element. There's a light blue wire running down towards the motor that seems to have a short to ground but I'm not sure if that's normal being it goes to the motor windings. Seems like I remember that motor wires will show a short to ground. The motor works great. Is there some way that the element could actually be bad anyway? What would be your recommendation to do in this situation? How can the element test good, have 120v going to it, but not heat? Anyone have a clue if the element is bad anyway or is there something else that could cause this? Also, it has 120 volts through both legs.
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It could be your thermal fuse. That is what he didn't check in this video. It's located about a foot about the element with 2 wires going to it and you can see it in the video. That's what went bad on mine. Your best bet would be to check everything again with a multi-meter. It's possible one or both of your new parts could have failed. I would eliminate all possibilities.
@packrat76 I think that’s what’s happening to mine, continuity is OK on the heating element and thermostat and the dryer doesn’t heat. What should I check in the thermal fuse? Continuity too? Thanks