What a fantastically shot, clear, and comprehensive video. Props to the great sound and image quality, and the extra effort into putting international links for various products seen within. Really great for a beginner like me.
I kinda think it sounds great for a plastic build, but deffo just feels like a standard case. 5 pin hot swap is always welcome for no mauling of switches. a very nice priced board imo.
Just bought the Akko 3068 9009 Retro edition from Epomaker and I love it! My first time using Cherry MX red switches and they're really good for FPS. I was considering this too but like the style of Akko
When you're lubing the inside of the stabilizers, lube is fine. When you do the legs, however, you should use dielectric grease. This prevents the stabilizers from rattling.
Btw, I didn't lube or dampen or clip and my Aliaz 80g switches sound much quieter then your Oreo test. I highly suggest them if you want close to silent with a splash of tactility.
@@puhgeh i think Keychron sells wood ones... But that kind of sounds pointless to me. Why would you buy an aesthetic piece of wood for comfort? Ya know? I game with mine and don't have a problem, but I'm also 5' 11".
I think comparing the sound using two different switches isn't as informative of a comparison when trying to hear the impact of the foam and lubed stabilizers. I can't tell how much of the difference in sound is due to the non-clicky switches, or because the foam actually dampens some of the sound. Otherwise, great video
Many thanks for the review. I am looking for 65% hot-swappable mechanical keyboard with PBT keycaps and I found Ducky One 2 SF could be an option but it also has non-standard keycaps in the first row which make it difficult to replace in the future. What you think about Ducky, and do you have any ideas what other keyboard could I buy so it have standard and PBT keycaps? I think I would go with cherry browns.
I use a different keychron board (the K1) and I find the cable/off/bluetooth switch handy. I can switch between being wired in to one computer (for example if I wish to disable bluetooth, or it is otherwise unavailable) or switch between being wired into one and wireless with up to three other machines. The off setting is useful for cleaning your keyboard, giving it a wipe-down without it typing gibberish.
How quick is the switch? I'm looking to easily switch my keyboard between wired and wireless for controlling two PC's. (eg. wired to my work pc and wireless to my personal desktop at the same time)
Just got mine today... I chose the aluminum hot swapabale with Gateron Red linear switches....Its the most impressive keyboard I've ever used and I will never go back to membrane Razer cynosa v2.
Hello, really nice review of the product! Wanted to ask whether it would be possible to use the BT and Cable switch as a "KVM" switch between 2 devices?
I noticed that the fn1 and fn2 keys on your keyboard have white/clear text, however some of the pics on the keychron website show the fn1 key text orange to match the text on the keys that perform fn1 functions, and the fn2 key text blue to match the text on the keys that perform fn2 functions. Do you think you are testing an older stock model that has outdated keycaps?
I've got a K2 and this modding seems to be nice - the after effect sounds so comfy. One quick question - do we need to re-lube the stablizers from time to time, say every 2-3 months?
Thanks for you review. Concerned about the BT connection with Apple devices. Is it easy to detect and it does not turn off? Also, how's the height or inclined angle of the keyboard? Is it a must to get a palm rest?
I purchased and received mine last week. Aluminum RGB RED SWITCHES. I use it solely with an iPad BT is fine... As video said keyboard go's to sleep... But you can turn off sleep and it's always on.
@ 2:00 it's important to note that you shouldn't be resting your wrist on a surface while typing in the first place. That will ultimately lead to wrist problems. You should type with an elevated wrist position.
I have the kemove shadow and I like it. Build quality, although all plastic, has a heavier solid feel to it lending itself to a more premium feel. Decent PBT shine throughs with relatively clear legend. only 3 pin hot swap( wasn't a big deal for me I like lubing my own switches and didn't mind cutting extra stems on switch) . Software is in its early stages. Middle of the road but passable and much easier once your used to it. White backplate helps RGB illuminate the board nicely. Better than this one. Overall for the price I was hard pressed to find one better. Some things are personal preference of course.
wanna build a custom keyboard get freecad or openscad or fusion360 design your own shell go to a local fablab 3d print-it or cnc it get your switches wire them up using an arduino board or design your own pcb ... that's what i call a custom keyboard the rest are diy kits with some custom options ...
Uhh if your really need your arrow keys, Ducky one 2 SF and Durgod Hades 68 are okay options. Even though they aren't hot swap, any linear switch should be good for gaming. The Womier k66 is sort of white? (If you like rgb)
@@Pikachu123OP ty . I hesitate between ducky one mini or SF // razer huntsman mini. It looks hard to get key caps sets and custom usb C in europe (delivered in france).
@@ondamixtape What is your preferred layout size? If you want to spend more money, the razer huntsman mini is slightly better for gaming (idk if they have an iso layout yet). Ducky is also not bad for the price either (idk about their stock and shipping tho). I can't really help with caps but kriscables.com is a decent place 4 cables (if you don't have any other place to get them).
thought the same thing, it removes the "click" from the blue switches... seems like an odd choice to me that everyone and their mother are trying to remove the K6's click sounds from.. clickety switches?